/ 5mm cord as in situ gear?
Leave it. It's up to other climbers if they use it or not. If it isn't needed it will be removed.
> Leave it. It's up to other climbers if they use it or not. If it isn't needed it will be removed.
Yeah but pulling the rope through it weakens it. Should be removed i think but i may be wrong.
I think just the friction of pulling the rope through after the abseil can cause some damage (though clearly not as much as lowering). Probably not much damage. I'd say leave it, it's the responsibility of the next climber to decide whether to clip it or not, just like any other in situ gear.
Not necessarily - pulling many meters of rope around a piece of thin cord will weaken it by heating it - try it around a finger to see how much heat is generated. Lower directly off it and it will be cut in seconds.
Anyone who clips a piece of 5mm tat that threaded through a peg where the peg is clippable is asking for trouble. Put another way, threading protection pegs for abseils is really anti-social if it prevents the peg being clipped. Carrying an old krab for such events is more helpful.
Abbing of a bit of 5mm tat threaded through and old peg = bad idea.
To be fair, it was probably a new peg... A lot of them in that area have been replaced since April this year. New 5mm cord has breaking strength of at least 5kN, so more than enough for an abseil.
Ok, so I know redundancy is preferable (some would say essential) but I think in context it isn't quite as bad an idea as you seem to think!
One more comment (I'm off climbing injured at the moment): I would rather abseil in this situation. Sure, the cord adds another point of failure with respect to just threading the peg, but lowering results in about twice as much force on the piece of gear as abseiling. When relying on a single point for the abseil/lower, that factor of two would be a big factor in my decision.
Threading the peg with the rope(s) and abseiling off it directly would probably be the preferred option here, assuming the eye of the peg has a large enough internal radius for the rope you're using.
> Abbing of a bit of 5mm tat threaded through and old peg = bad idea.
Did he say old peg?
5mm cord is plenty strong enough
Ok I would personally back it up with a nut or thread, but you have to look at situation and judge yourself when there.
> Why chris,
> Did he say old peg?
> 5mm cord is plenty strong enough
> Ok I would personally back it up with a nut or thread, but you have to look at situation and judge yourself when there.
Because without taking a hammer to it there is no way of knowing if the peg is any good. Abbing off a single point has to be done on occasions but it isn't a good idea
Also Nick you make a good point and i will keep that in mind.
Elsewhere on the site
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
At a bar in Llanberis an old man chimed in And I thought he was out of his head Being a young man I just laughed it off When... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more