/ NEW ARTICLE: Rock Climbing Basics 6: Placing Wires
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5725
I wasn't impressed with the section of removing a nut, though.
Upward (sharp) tugs are the recipe for making the wires bent and subsequently damaged. You shouldn't do it, unless other alternatives, such as using a nut key, are unavailable.
How to use a nut key is not that simple or easy, again if you want to avoid the potential damage to the wire!
Found it quite amusing that she was demoing the best way to place a nut using both hands as well - might be ok on a dif, but anything much harder and you'd only have 1 hand free anyway.
Yes, almost the whole point of practising putting in gear at the foot of a crag like that is to practise it single-handed - from different sides, different angles, and with different hands. Also, practising from a long way to one side, when you can't see into the crack properly.
Personally I didn't find it to be any better than this Wild Country's one, but it does mention the points that aren't mentioned in the latter, so is complimentary.
Either way, both the vids lack of some (I think) important points even as the primer for novices, let alone for the experienced. Still, I am glad to see those vids are widely available and for free - I appreciate that!
Not to mention damaging the placement
so do you never rip nuts out from the top then?
As a last resort, after gentle wiggling the way it was placed oand after tapping with a nut key. The problem with ripping, quite apart from the damage to wire, rock and front teeth, is it usually orientats the nut differently from the way it went in and can leave it even more stuck than it was before.
Ripping seems to be the first resort for some and I don't think its a good habit to get into.
All the forces are acting on a small area of rock which, unfortunately, is unsupported as the crack flares out below the placement. Rated as a 5? No way. Blow the 'lip' of the crack and the placement is gone. "Really good placement" - no.
Next concern - too easy to lift the wire out. Video at 03:09 - I've seen placements similar to this pull out under a fall/loading situation or with rope drag, especially with single rope technique where runners often need to be extended further.
My argument is that if the nut is properly seated - a 5 out of 5 - it shouldn't move if the carabiner moves above the placement because it's the wire which should flex with the rope movement...rather than the nut moving out of its placement. The demonstration relies on the nut rotating out of its position with an upwards tug...
And then magically changes..
A quick way of removing all the wires would be to take a leader fall with the belayer stood as far from the base of the climb as she was in the belaying video.
I regularly find for nuts that don't just wobble out from the off a quick pull and then if needed a further pull back down but more gently gets a wire moving without the need for a nut key. I would agree this can wear the placements more especially ones that are marginal anyway.
Elsewhere on the site
A fantastically versatile little pack; whether out running in the hills, hitting the trails on the bike or just running for the... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more