UKC

Terrace wall - Nottingham uni

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 1906johns 14 Sep 2013
Just wondering does anyone actually boulder on the terrace walls anymore ? I know there is a few guides about with some tricky problems and that
 bettypastie 14 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns:
Yer, I know that the uni climbing club go there fairly frequently. Theres a topo under publications on unumc.org and you can arrange to meet people on the forum as well should you fancy it.
OP 1906johns 14 Sep 2013
In reply to bettypastie: I was there today, a lot of the wall looked forlorn and unclimbed for a long time. Are you referring to the UKC forums by the way ?
 Wil Treasure 14 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns:

Of course it looks unclimbed, there haven't been any students around for months! It usually gets well used in term though.
OP 1906johns 14 Sep 2013
In reply to drysori: I was working off the idea there are plenty of climbers in Nottingham, it's a public park, and a great spot to climb so has the lack of usage resulted from council /uni banning climbing there etc,and I'm not a student and never have been so..
In reply to 1906johns:

Climbing on the uni campus is frowned upon by the security i believe, however there is an unwritten agreement that if its kept to terrace wall then they're happy to turn a blind eye.
 Wil Treasure 14 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns:

It doesn't really get climbed on by many other than the students in my experience.
 UKB Shark 14 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns:

Trent Bridge is probably better for training on but why bother when you've got mega bouldering at the Depot now
OP 1906johns 14 Sep 2013
In reply to shark: outside is both free, always open and I like the breeze
 Offwidth 15 Sep 2013
In reply to shark: Sadlly Trent bridge has been damaged by morons increasing the size of the holds. It is pretty dead these days and was always so long before The Depot opened.
OP 1906johns 15 Sep 2013
In reply to Offwidth: that's a real shame and very disappointing to hear
 bettypastie 16 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns: No, the Nottingham Uni climbing club forum (unumc.org)- in general I think its mostly the students who climb there so that forum is a good place to hook up with people if you want company.
Noone has ever seemed to have a problem with climbing on Terrace so its probably just been quiet over the summer...
 Budge 16 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns:

There was someone bouldering at lunchtime, I pop over a couple of times a year, the traverses give intense fingery sessions.

It is supposedly banned but I have never been stopped.

i.munro 16 Sep 2013
In reply to Budge:

I was down several times last summer & there was always someone else there.
Not been back to Nottm this year though. If only London had anything even half as good

I also had a look at my old training wall on the Forest but that did look abandoned.
OP 1906johns 16 Sep 2013
In reply to Budge:

> There was someone bouldering at lunchtime

think that person may have me mate
OP 1906johns 16 Sep 2013
In reply to i.munro: forest wall ?
i.munro 16 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns:

when I lived in Nottm (long long ago) it was the other place to train.

Big retaining wall behind the football pitches on the Forest.
Looked completely unused when I looked last summer & not even maintained ie pointed.
If it should collapse (which didn't look unlikely) while you were climbing it really would ruin your day
I'd guess it's holding bacj several hundred tons of soil.

Shame! it used to be good for loong stamina sessions.
 samuel_w 16 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns:

Terrace wall is a lovely spot! Used to go down there fairly regularly (never been a student in Notts) and wasn't aware of any ban of climbing there. I am aware, however, that the butter-soft sandstone close by is banned (perhaps with good reason given the texture - I do believe there are some old aid bolts if you look closely!) Always enjoyed the top tier traverses - better in winter when the trees have dropped their leaves, meaning the right-hand side is a lot cleaner.

Trent Bridge is great, nice outlook on a sunny day and the tunnels will go in all weather - traverse until your forearms have a tantrum! Shame (as Offwidth commented) about the chipping of holds (removal of mortar) and also the chalk arrows pointing to hidden holds - reduces the challenge more than a notch.
 samuel_w 16 Sep 2013
In reply to i.munro: I've traversed Forest wall a couple of times - pretty dirty these days to be honest. The council seem to be putting a lot of time into revamping Forest Rec so hopefully the wall might get a clean. As it happens, a sizeable section of one of the walls on the upper tier (just above the access road) DID collapse on bonfire night two years ago, folk were herded away with haste as I recall!
 UKB Shark 17 Sep 2013
In reply to samuel_w:
> (In reply to 1906johns)
>
> Terrace wall is a lovely spot! Used to go down there fairly regularly (never been a student in Notts) and wasn't aware of any ban of climbing there. I am aware, however, that the butter-soft sandstone close by is banned (perhaps with good reason given the texture - I do believe there are some old aid bolts if you look closely!)


I was close to the ground when I snapped one or two practicing on these. They were already regarded as old in the early 80's
OP 1906johns 17 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns: suppose that means we're continuing the tradition then
OP 1906johns 17 Sep 2013
In reply to Chris Harris: cheers dude
 Chris the Tall 17 Sep 2013
In reply to Chris Harris:
Brings back memories of being taught to layback by Seb
I think he showed me that one of the arêtes was easier one handed, as long as you got your feet right.

Cheers Seb!
 ebdon 17 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns: I climb on Trent bridge moderately regularly and think its pretty good but I’m getting pretty tired of having to clean ridiculous amounts of unnecessercary chalk off the holds, and as offwidth has said many holds seem to be getting damaged, mortar going from between blocks etc.., so if you do use this, I know it’s only a grotty bridge but it’s all there is so be considerate!
Saying all that and rant over – I went down last Thursday and there were cobwebs everywhere!
OP 1906johns 17 Sep 2013
In reply to ebdon: I've had the same problem at Trent bridge. I have noticed some 'new' holds appearing mid block between my visits, which in all fairness aren't as regular as they used to be. It's very annoying
 ebdon 17 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns: I always wondered if climbing on Trent bridge (or indeed the uni wall) was actually good training for anything but after visiting new mills tor last week its perfect training! – now that’s a weird crag trent bridge on steroids!
OP 1906johns 17 Sep 2013
In reply to ebdon: can't say I'm familiar with new mills ? To be honest I'm not a boulderer at all, so i cant really say whether it's good training or not. it's more that after leading routes I've realised my technique is pretty crap and everyone says bouldering is good training for that...
 ebdon 17 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns: Indeed i found regular sessions on TB did improve my stamina - its crap for bouldering training as does nothing for power(BTW new mills is like trent brdige but 50ft high and bolted)
 Offwidth 17 Sep 2013
In reply to ebdon: builds stamina and technique and its free and in a nice setting and is OK on a nice day year round. No traverse ever felt hard for the grade after a series of workouts there.

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