/ Kilnsey fall on Monday 23rd - big thanks
A couple of hours in the local A&E last night had me scrubbed clean, rebandaged and sent packing with antibiotics and horse tranquilisers.
Cheers again folks, I owe you one.
Ouch. It's a good route but that first bolt is high and the first few meters are quite slipoffable. Glad to hear you're ok.
Thanks, yeah it looks a stonking line and it was well sold to me. Despite my slipping, I'm still not sure how I managed to let go of the ma-hoosive left hand jug! I'll try and get back down soon to give it another shot.
Good advice in general but not much help for the Directissima.
Ouch, I bet that hurt! Glad you're OK.
Indeed - I'm amazed this sort of thing doesn't happen a lot more often at Kilnsey; the bolting at the start of some of the routes is idiotic. Glad the OP is ok; could have been much worse.
Also new bolts have been added recently on Sticky Wicket I think in response to comments on here, and this now has a well bolted start.
At least as far as first bolts are concerned you can see what you are letting yourself in for, so should be aware of the "no fall" nature of them.
The extra long stick was used for Frankie - the start of that is hard, dynamic, and unclippable with anything but an extra long stick (unless you climb up the neighbouring corner and traverse across).
Frankie was the one I was thinking of (mostly because I've been trying it a bit recently). Given that the start is the crux it seems pretty daft that there isn't a clippable bolt to protect it; is there any reason (like rock quality - always seems pretty good to me though) for not having a lower bolt?
Good to see that common sense has prevailed at the start of Sticky Wicket; pinging off backwards from the boulder problem start would have been extremely unpleasant without anything clipped.
The idea of "no fall" zones on sport routes is laughable; this isn't gritstone.
Not sure why the first bolt of Frankie is so high but it is in keeping with the slightly sparse bolting of the entire route. I vaguely recall talk of a historical retro-bolting / bolt-chopping dispute that resulted in a "sportingly bolted" rather than a "sport bolted" compromise? Anyway, I remember being terrified of the start when I lead it - and felt like such an idiot when, much later, I saw someone else get the first clip in from Balas!
I wondered about that but whilst the rest of the route is a little run out in places, it's not dangerous and the bolts are placed at good stopping points/holds - it definitely feels like a sport route (not a "sportingly bolted route") and as such the start seems like a bit of an anomaly as it would be easy to spanner yourself off it. Yes you can climb up Balas and traverse across but only if it's dry!
I've got a 6m carp pole as a clipstick, it's longer than most and I can often get the 3rd or sometimes the 4th bolt with it at shorter crags. I'm pretty sure I can't clip the Directissima or I would and I remember I didn't the other week.
I think the Frankie bolting is probably the compromise result of the chopping war it suffered. It makes no sense on the crag as it is today.
I guess the Directissima is left as is because in context it's basically easy ground from 4m to 8m, the start is 'bouldered' which works for most people climbing comfortably within their ability. I find it fairly spicy for a few meters.
Hmm, it probably is about that...maybe. I have the medium Beta stick and I'm pretty sure it couldn't have reached. In retrospect, I should have tried I guess! My own fault really, too complacent on big holds, albeit slightly smeggy and polished. I'll be more careful next time.
Yep, one of the team there yesterday said the same about the original first bolt now being the second bolt. I don't have a problem with easy terrain not being bolted and don't blame the route or the equippers.
It's thereabouts unless someone has put a new one in in the last couple of weeks. It's quite high.
Sorry to hear about your fall hope you feeling better soon.
Directissima was freed clipping the aid pegs and latterly those pegs were replaced by bolts however the start has always been protected by wires and/or pads and a spotter. The stronger climbers are usually happy just to solo it but that start is quite polished and needs respect. It is a hard sequence!
Coincidentally, I think it was you I took a few photos of on Mule Variation on the Sunday. I've just uploaded one so you can correct me if I'm wrong.
Also, no bolts have been placed in the start of Directissima because it is also the start of a few trad routes.
(Yes, I did lead Mule Variations on Sunday)
Elsewhere on the site
PowerFingers is a simple, easy to use product which is incredibly effective for Climbers who require finger strength and... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Will Sim and Andy Inglis have made the second ascent of VIII,9 on Ben Nevis, followed by Will making a rare... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
The release of Peter Jackson's new film The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies on 12th December may not appear to link to... Read more