/ Kilnsey fall on Monday 23rd - big thanks

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Fraser on 24 Sep 2013
I'd just like to extend a big thank you to James Ibbertson, Jenny, Dave and Joint for the first aid and help administered after I slipped and fell off the start of The Directissima at Kilnsey yesterday, landing horizontally on the deck. I was very impressed and grateful for your highly professional actions. Also thanks to my partner Kev for helping out with the drive back up to Glasgow. A rather inauspicious first ever visit to Kilnsey but I'll definitely be back!

A couple of hours in the local A&E last night had me scrubbed clean, rebandaged and sent packing with antibiotics and horse tranquilisers.

Cheers again folks, I owe you one.
jkarran - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Fraser:

Ouch. It's a good route but that first bolt is high and the first few meters are quite slipoffable. Glad to hear you're ok.

jk
Fraser on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to jkarran:

Thanks, yeah it looks a stonking line and it was well sold to me. Despite my slipping, I'm still not sure how I managed to let go of the ma-hoosive left hand jug! I'll try and get back down soon to give it another shot.
1poundSOCKS - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Fraser: Treat yourself to a clipstick. :)
jkarran - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Good advice in general but not much help for the Directissima.
jk
jon on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Fraser:

Ouch, I bet that hurt! Glad you're OK.
Pagan - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to jkarran:

Indeed - I'm amazed this sort of thing doesn't happen a lot more often at Kilnsey; the bolting at the start of some of the routes is idiotic. Glad the OP is ok; could have been much worse.
Sankey - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Pagan: an extra long clip stick is your friend, as far as I know it can reach most of the high first clips, I leant mine to someone to clip somthing (ground effect maybe) at the weekend and I think most likely Directisma would be in range.

Also new bolts have been added recently on Sticky Wicket I think in response to comments on here, and this now has a well bolted start.

At least as far as first bolts are concerned you can see what you are letting yourself in for, so should be aware of the "no fall" nature of them.

thebigfriendlymoose - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Sankey:

The extra long stick was used for Frankie - the start of that is hard, dynamic, and unclippable with anything but an extra long stick (unless you climb up the neighbouring corner and traverse across).
Pagan - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

Frankie was the one I was thinking of (mostly because I've been trying it a bit recently). Given that the start is the crux it seems pretty daft that there isn't a clippable bolt to protect it; is there any reason (like rock quality - always seems pretty good to me though) for not having a lower bolt?

Good to see that common sense has prevailed at the start of Sticky Wicket; pinging off backwards from the boulder problem start would have been extremely unpleasant without anything clipped.

The idea of "no fall" zones on sport routes is laughable; this isn't gritstone.
1poundSOCKS - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Fraser: A Trango Squid and painter's pole are on my Christmas list. I was told the first bolt on Directissima didn't always exist, the current second bolt used to be the first.
thebigfriendlymoose - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Pagan:

Not sure why the first bolt of Frankie is so high but it is in keeping with the slightly sparse bolting of the entire route. I vaguely recall talk of a historical retro-bolting / bolt-chopping dispute that resulted in a "sportingly bolted" rather than a "sport bolted" compromise? Anyway, I remember being terrified of the start when I lead it - and felt like such an idiot when, much later, I saw someone else get the first clip in from Balas!
Pagan - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

> Not sure why the first bolt of Frankie is so high but it is in keeping with the slightly sparse bolting of the entire route.

I wondered about that but whilst the rest of the route is a little run out in places, it's not dangerous and the bolts are placed at good stopping points/holds - it definitely feels like a sport route (not a "sportingly bolted route") and as such the start seems like a bit of an anomaly as it would be easy to spanner yourself off it. Yes you can climb up Balas and traverse across but only if it's dry!
jkarran - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Sankey:

> an extra long clip stick is your friend, as far as I know it can reach most of the high first clips, I leant mine to someone to clip somthing (ground effect maybe) at the weekend and I think most likely Directisma would be in range.

I've got a 6m carp pole as a clipstick, it's longer than most and I can often get the 3rd or sometimes the 4th bolt with it at shorter crags. I'm pretty sure I can't clip the Directissima or I would and I remember I didn't the other week.

I think the Frankie bolting is probably the compromise result of the chopping war it suffered. It makes no sense on the crag as it is today.

I guess the Directissima is left as is because in context it's basically easy ground from 4m to 8m, the start is 'bouldered' which works for most people climbing comfortably within their ability. I find it fairly spicy for a few meters.

jk
1poundSOCKS - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to jkarran: Are you saying the 1st bolt on Directissima is 8m up?
Fraser on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Hmm, it probably is about that...maybe. I have the medium Beta stick and I'm pretty sure it couldn't have reached. In retrospect, I should have tried I guess! My own fault really, too complacent on big holds, albeit slightly smeggy and polished. I'll be more careful next time.
Fraser on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
> (In reply to Fraser) A Trango Squid and painter's pole are on my Christmas list. I was told the first bolt on Directissima didn't always exist, the current second bolt used to be the first.

Yep, one of the team there yesterday said the same about the original first bolt now being the second bolt. I don't have a problem with easy terrain not being bolted and don't blame the route or the equippers.

jkarran - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

> Are you saying the 1st bolt on Directissima is 8m up?

It's thereabouts unless someone has put a new one in in the last couple of weeks. It's quite high.

jk
Steve Crowe - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Fraser:
Sorry to hear about your fall hope you feeling better soon.

Directissima was freed clipping the aid pegs and latterly those pegs were replaced by bolts however the start has always been protected by wires and/or pads and a spotter. The stronger climbers are usually happy just to solo it but that start is quite polished and needs respect. It is a hard sequence!
Fraser on 24 Sep 2013
Fine thanks Steve, just a bit bruised and stiff. Fortunately, my spotter did limit the damage done so it could have been a lot worse. I don't think the route needs a lower bolt, but it might come in handy and prevent similar incidents. Or it might just lead to an increase in polish!

Coincidentally, I think it was you I took a few photos of on Mule Variation on the Sunday. I've just uploaded one so you can correct me if I'm wrong.
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Steve Crowe - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Fraser:

Also, no bolts have been placed in the start of Directissima because it is also the start of a few trad routes.

(Yes, I did lead Mule Variations on Sunday)

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