/ loose block on Super Massive Black Hole
Having crapped myself I climbed upward very swiftly - so I didn't hang around to inspect the hold/block. Consequently I can't say if the hold/block was really loose or if I just imagined it. My mate didn't notice anything dodgy when he seconded the pitch but he may well have used different holds.
Nevertheless I thought I should post something on here so that other people will at least be aware of the possible danger. I suspect the dodgy rock is avoidable but it would be well worth having a look at the holds on the groove/arete above the crux step right if you are abbing in to the start of the route
When you're in the vicinity, Ian, and since we're talking about slate safety issues: one of the two ab bolts at the top of Heaven Walls had a very loose hanger a couple of weeks ago.
Thought SMBH was very good indeed. Hope my previous post won't put people off doing the route which is 100% worthwhile. Also recently enjoyed 2 of your other routes, Uluru Magic and Map of the Problematique at Penmaenbach. Thought the latter to be one of the best single pitch sport routes I have ever done in the UK. Thanks for all your excellent work
WOW! Thanks :-)
It's the one you use on the Snakes & Ladders & Tunnels, which we were doing on a wet afternoon. Between Gay Lightweights and Dinorwig Unconquerable, marked as "abseil descent" on p.187 of the guidebook.
Would also recommend anyone climbing /abbing on bolts to carry a cheap spanner (17mm for 10mm Bolts and a 19mm for 12mm bolts)this would fix most problems with spinning hangers, can't believe it's not seen as standard kit for sport climbers.
> Would also recommend anyone climbing /abbing on bolts to carry a cheap spanner (17mm for 10mm Bolts and a 19mm for 12mm bolts)this would fix most problems with spinning hangers, can't believe it's not seen as standard kit for sport climbers.
I've considered that - I believe there are even nut keys that double as spanners - but since I know nothing about bolting, I would be afraid of over-torquing the bolt and making the situation worse. Or would that be unlikely to happen?
The offending loose block has now been safely removed. It was big and definitely loose, it came off with just a couple of gentle pushes with my foot.
Luckily if anything it has improved the crux, it's no harder now, but the temptation to use holds on the groove for a rest after the crux is no longer an option.
I think you can see the offending block on the top left of this photo just right of the Yellow flower...
Good job removing the block, that tallies with my rather vague recollection - I ran away as soon as i felt something shifting - but it was behind me on the left.
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