/ loose block on Super Massive Black Hole

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colin struthers - on 29 Sep 2013
A friend and I climbed this route in Twll Mawr yesterday. After completing the crux move right on the first pitch and having moved back left to the groove/arÍte I then pulled on a large block - which I think moved.

Having crapped myself I climbed upward very swiftly - so I didn't hang around to inspect the hold/block. Consequently I can't say if the hold/block was really loose or if I just imagined it. My mate didn't notice anything dodgy when he seconded the pitch but he may well have used different holds.

Nevertheless I thought I should post something on here so that other people will at least be aware of the possible danger. I suspect the dodgy rock is avoidable but it would be well worth having a look at the holds on the groove/arete above the crux step right if you are abbing in to the start of the route
ian Ll-J - on 29 Sep 2013
In reply to colin struthers: Will abb and have a look when I'm in Twll Mawr next, it seemed solid enough a few weeks ago. I've got a few projects on the go in there. Hope you enjoyed Supermassive Black Hole, did you get on anything else?
AlanLittle - on 29 Sep 2013
In reply to ian Ll-J:

When you're in the vicinity, Ian, and since we're talking about slate safety issues: one of the two ab bolts at the top of Heaven Walls had a very loose hanger a couple of weeks ago.
ian Ll-J - on 29 Sep 2013
In reply to AlanLittle: Which route is the lower off / ab bolts on or near?
colin struthers - on 29 Sep 2013
In reply to ian Ll-J: Hi Ian

Thought SMBH was very good indeed. Hope my previous post won't put people off doing the route which is 100% worthwhile. Also recently enjoyed 2 of your other routes, Uluru Magic and Map of the Problematique at Penmaenbach. Thought the latter to be one of the best single pitch sport routes I have ever done in the UK. Thanks for all your excellent work
ian Ll-J - on 29 Sep 2013
In reply to colin struthers:
> Also recently enjoyed 2 of your other routes, Uluru Magic and Map of the Problematique at Penmaenbach. Thought the latter to be one of the best single pitch sport routes I have ever done in the UK. Thanks for all your excellent work

WOW! Thanks :-)
AlanLittle - on 29 Sep 2013
In reply to ian Ll-J:

It's the one you use on the Snakes & Ladders & Tunnels, which we were doing on a wet afternoon. Between Gay Lightweights and Dinorwig Unconquerable, marked as "abseil descent" on p.187 of the guidebook.
ian Ll-J - on 29 Sep 2013
In reply to AlanLittle: I've just added a problem route page to the Slate Wicki would be worth putting it on there, as I'm not planning on heading up there for a while.

http://slate.wikifoundry.com/page/Problem+Bolts%2C+Lower+Offs+%26+Loose+Blocks+etc.

Would also recommend anyone climbing /abbing on bolts to carry a cheap spanner (17mm for 10mm Bolts and a 19mm for 12mm bolts)this would fix most problems with spinning hangers, can't believe it's not seen as standard kit for sport climbers.
AlanLittle - on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to ian Ll-J:
>
> Would also recommend anyone climbing /abbing on bolts to carry a cheap spanner (17mm for 10mm Bolts and a 19mm for 12mm bolts)this would fix most problems with spinning hangers, can't believe it's not seen as standard kit for sport climbers.

I've considered that - I believe there are even nut keys that double as spanners - but since I know nothing about bolting, I would be afraid of over-torquing the bolt and making the situation worse. Or would that be unlikely to happen?

ian Ll-J - on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to AlanLittle: I guess it would be unlikely as you would probably have to really strain with a small spanner. Better for it to be tightened up a bit if you're unsure rather than spinning a lot.
ian Ll-J - on 01 Oct 2013
In reply to colin struthers:
> A friend and I climbed this route in Twll Mawr yesterday. After completing the crux move right on the first pitch and having moved back left to the groove/arÍte I then pulled on a large block - which I think moved.

The offending loose block has now been safely removed. It was big and definitely loose, it came off with just a couple of gentle pushes with my foot.

Luckily if anything it has improved the crux, it's no harder now, but the temptation to use holds on the groove for a rest after the crux is no longer an option.
MischaHY - on 01 Oct 2013
So I guess you're a Muse fan, Ian? ;)
ian Ll-J - on 01 Oct 2013
In reply to MischaHY: Oh yes :-)
ian Ll-J - on 01 Oct 2013
In reply to colin struthers:
I think you can see the offending block on the top left of this photo just right of the Yellow flower...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=177845
ads.ukclimbing.com
colin struthers - on 01 Oct 2013
In reply to ian Ll-J: Hi Ian

Good job removing the block, that tallies with my rather vague recollection - I ran away as soon as i felt something shifting - but it was behind me on the left.

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