/ NEW ARTICLE: VIDEO: Jack Geldard's 'Hand Picked' Anglesey Classics

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UKC Articles - on 30 Sep 2013
Jack Geldard's hand picked Anglesey, 3 kb

In this, the second of a five part video series called 'Hand Picked' from Marmot, we see Jack Geldard going ropeless on his favourite cliffs of Gogarth and Rhoscolyn in North Wales.

He was asked to pick two of the best routes there, can you guess what they would be?



Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5843
johncoxmysteriously - on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to UKC Articles:

Well, if it was me I'd choose Electric Blue and Dream of White Horses.

jcm
jon on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

In that order, John? Come on.
johncoxmysteriously - on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to jon:

Ah, Jon, but that guess was on sight. Or whatever the term for guessing what routes are on a video without looking at it is.

jcm
highclimber - on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to UKC Articles: I'm gonna be a bit of a pedant and point out that it's not called Go-garth, rather it is Gog-arth (emphasis being on the penultimate syllable which in this case means 'North'). Excellent vid by the way. I will never forget my first time on A Dream of White Horses.
eroica64 - on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to highclimber: Could do without the flicker effect, for example, with Leo's photo of DOWH.
puppythedog on 02 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC Articles: Jack seems to be soloing in videos quite a bit (well this one and the Almscliff video);

Do you need someone to hold your rope chap?
In reply to puppythedog:
> (In reply to UKC Articles) Jack seems to be soloing in videos quite a bit (well this one and the Almscliff video);
>
> Do you need someone to hold your rope chap?

Hi, thanks for the concern! Actually I only solo around 0.5% of my climbing time I would guess. Soloing the 'big 3' at Almscliff one after the other (the other video from last year) has been something I have wanted to do for years, and this one, well I routinely solo Electric Blue as it is above the water, so that doesn't count! And Dream of White Horses is another classic I have always wanted to solo.

I most likely won't be doing any other unroped climbing for at least a year now.

Thanks to Ian Burton for putting these videos together, I like the steady pace and the lack of music in these videos. Nice one Ian.

Thanks,

Jack
Mick Ward - on 03 Oct 2013
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

It's a lovely video, relaxed, peaceful. It reminded me of the 1980s Jimmy Jewel 'Total Control' in its sense of being out in the open air, just enjoying things.

Thanks for mentioning the history. I wouldn't have minded if you'd got it wrong (you didn't!) It contextualises things. Recently, Libby Peter did a really good article in one of the mags about doing lots of (quite hard) routes at Tremadog in a very long day. Because she mentioned the history, it gave a sense of continuity.

Watching you on the big three at Almscliffe, I was a bit gripped. No disrespect, I know they're a long, long way below your leading standard. The rock just looked so green! Obviously a few minutes of wind can make a big difference. (You end up like your granny, just hoping everyone's safe.)

Both lovely videos. As you say, thanks for Ian Burton for making them - and you for doing the routes.

Mick
In reply to Mick Ward: Thanks for the comments Mick, very kind.

Jack
Jus - on 04 Oct 2013
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Electric Blue is just one of the best routes anywhere. Such an amazing solo in the back of beyond.
JLS on 04 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC Articles:

I think youtube may have censored the audio on this video either that or I've got particular IT issues...
elcidcampeador - on 04 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC Articles:

Talking of history -- don't forget Dave Pearce, co-first ascentionist of Dream of White Horses with Drummond. He is the guy belaying in the black and white photograph.

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