/ Lower Wye Valley bouldering spots

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pasbury on 02 Oct 2013
I've recently realised a long term ambition and moved to the lower Wye Valley.

Are there any good bouldering spots for a bit of traversing at any of the main lower Wye Valley crags? Or any other secret spots from Chepstow up to Monmouth (I wont tell!)
Paul Robertson - on 02 Oct 2013
In reply to pasbury:
The two Escarpments at Ban-y-gor
phleppy on 02 Oct 2013
In reply to pasbury: I was going to have a visit to Huntsham Crags when I was down there a few years ago but never got round to it unfortunately, it looks ok maybe so try that.
AJM - on 02 Oct 2013
In reply to pasbury:

There's a traverse possible of the lower tier at wyndcliff quarry. And there is a bunch of bouldering and traversing at Huntsham.
WyeValleyClimber - on 02 Oct 2013
In reply to pasbury:
Two choices:
1) Steep and pumpy traversing along the base of several of the escarpment buttresses at Ban y Gor. Generally wet in the winter and gets some evening sun in the summer.
2) Less steep, technical and fingery traversing along the lower tier at Wyndcliffe Quarry. Gets any sun going and you can often climb there in a T-shirt mid-winter. Dries quickly. Like an oven on a sunny summer's day.
remus - on 02 Oct 2013
In reply to phleppy: Huntsham is a bit of an acquired taste. Lots to go at if you get in to it though, especially if you don't mind doing higher things.
pasbury on 03 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM & WyeValleyClimber:

I had a quick look at the quarry lower tier on the way home from work yesterday and it looks perfect for a quick fix. Bit wet at the moment though :-(
WyeValleyClimber - on 03 Oct 2013
In reply to pasbury: Where are you based?
AMorris - on 09 Oct 2013
In reply to pasbury: I'm currently trying to develop some bouldering at Hang Hill Quarry, its not the cleanest rock in the world at the moment and the major quarry is a tad overgrown but it has some potential. Got a few projects down there at the moment.

-A-
tombeasley - on 09 Oct 2013
In reply to pasbury: Loads to go at at Huntsham and if your happy on sandstone hundreds of new problems to do across the forest.

A few local good caves on limestone under development too.

For sandstone the "sandstone outcrops of the forest of dean" gives details of lots of bouldering spots -ingnor the E grades many are boulder problems.

For limestone caves find a local and ask some searching questions :-)
WyeValleyClimber - on 09 Oct 2013
In reply to pasbury:
There are rumours of a new limestone bouldering crag found near Tintern too.
mattsccm - on 09 Oct 2013
In reply to AMorris:
A good few years back I had a go at the place, about Y2K as have plenty of other over the years. There are some fun lines there. Interesting to see which bits of the top have come down when I wander up there occasionally. I only live down the bank.
AMorris - on 10 Oct 2013
In reply to mattsccm: Its a bit overgrown at the moment and not exactly the ideal bouldering location but there is a little potential for some moderately hard problems. Its nice a quiet to climb there too, and only a couple miles cycle from home so convenient!
EliC - on 11 Oct 2013
In reply to WyeValleyClimber:
You know where it can be found or anymore info?
Cheers
WyeValleyClimber - on 11 Oct 2013
In reply to CrimpShrimp:
> (In reply to WyeValleyClimber)
> You know where it can be found or anymore info?
> Cheers

Sorry - no idea. Just a rumour I heard!
groovy chick - on 23 Oct 2013
In reply to pasbury: You should check out Ban-y-gor. Access by the top of the Lancaut peninsula, woodcroft. Good traversing with a mix of problems spread throughout. Ban-y-gor for a good forearm pump!
Choss on 23 Oct 2013
In reply to pasbury:

Chepstow to monmouth?

Check out the highMeadow woods complex. Hearkening rocks, suckstone, etc.

As a bonus, if you havent got the sandstone outcrops guide yet, highmeadow woods section can be downloaded Free From Climbers club website.

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