/ UKC Fit Club Week 342

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mbh - on 06 Oct 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (341) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=563898&v=1

The week just gone:

grubes - flies in, takes top spot in the Chew Valley challenge, and crosses paths with a frozen Si. Later, they talk clothes.
AJM - pulls off super onsight tick on E4 Peryl and spots a route to big bouldering gains in the heel-hook area.. Commenting on this, Jimmy thinks it's a marmite thing while Si is less polite. But never mind that... big well done to Ali! (and, breathe....)
Eagle River - does a 7a at second go? It's not THAT poor, is it? Not happy with a 7b getting 3 stars.
stevemarkperry - works all week then gets laid.Up. Hope you are feeling better now.
Thickhead - 61 miles at a impressive pace, up mountains too, brings a great September to a close.
IainRUK - fitclub hugs for you, fatigued one. Bad luck on Berlin timing.Wishing you well with recovery.
leon - lets actual climbing get in the way of training, at foggy Gogarth and sunny Plantation.
Si dH - very well done at Wimberry, highlight of a good week and a typically detailed report.
mattrm - a good Gower day - well done on the lead - ends a satisfying week.
Nick Russell - gets polymath of the week award, and also fresher's flu (I had to look that up), soaks up the atmosphere of American Beauty and is STILL a student. How did the swimming trials go?
Ali - seems to have survived Kaly, and finds new off-road route to work (and thanks for the kind comments)
biscuit - bounces back from a tough day when nothing works out to find two new holds on a hard 7a+, which will surely fall before long.
Joughton - If you wrote your personal statement as well as we've seen you write here, Jake, they'll be fools not to take you. Good luck with the applications.
nomics4sale - trades first blows with Frankie, has a very satisfying trad day - well done on that - and packs in 4 runs. Langdale beckons and we are all wishing you well. Here, have some confidence! Go on, take it..
Needkraken - Oh no, not another boithday (I'd offer you cake, but I'm not sure you've got room for it after that week). Oh, have some anyway, but I'll be checking on that STG pull-up.
pork pie girl - Gets THAT close to onsighting a 7a+, gets back to pace with the indoor bike and takes it out on her settee. Never mind the other people. Good luck with the BB efforts.
Luke Owens - triumphs over the pump at Dinbren, and shows great determination on Axle Attack.
Sankey - Malham tick (Rose Coronary) demonstrates progress made in the last year. Cool.
Ally Smith, the Lurgified, - gets exotic location name drop prize of the week, spends a fortune on cold remedies, and gets the giggles. You can only say you have failed because you have set yourself lots of tough targets.
useful - climbs in the dark, running and hiking. Great mountain day.
maria85 - psyche back and a thought-out training plan in place. Great MM performance completes trio of running ticks amid an impressive summary of summer achievements.
annak - gets lost in the fog, but when this clears leads first E1! Big cheers! And if that wasn't enough, first HM is now minutes away. Good luck with that.
Exile - another good week, packing in a lot of work.
JimmyKay - 55 on prescriptions means Ally can't even claim prize for most expensive meds bill of the week. Sorry you've been so poorly Jimmy, but 3rd in your comp when in that state can't be bad.
mrchewy - pops up and advocates pie therapy. Good to see you again.
mbh - another 60+ mile week, trying to build in some speed, at long last.

A week in which fog, food and family dos have figured prominently, as has modesty, with people loathe to believe their grades.

Highlights: grubes wins the Chew Valley Challenge, annak gets a first E1 and AJM impresses on Peryl. Nomics and ppg voice their fears.


mattrm - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Link to 341 - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587

Thanks mbh.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st 2lbs - 1lbs loss

M - Rest (needed for once)
T - 1h indoor bouldering
W - Rest
T - Core
F - Rest
S - DIY (painted kitchen in a day)
S - Fingerboarding

I'm just aiming to maintain the summers progress over the next month or so. So 1 session of anything a week. I'm starting back with the yoga next week hopefully. DIY all day yesterday. Had to empty the kitchen, prep it and paint two coats and then put it all back. Long day, but worth it. More DIY today, but I will do some fingerboarding this evening.

When the house is finally done in November, I'll start on a conditioning program / hillwalking to get ready for Scottish Winter. Hoping to get three or four weekends up in Scotland this year. Then in Feb/March/April, I'll be aiming to get a 'proper' 3 times a week couple of months of training in, ready for May onwards. But we'll see how that actually works in reality.
Kevster - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers mbh,

Forgot to post last week, did nothing this week. (Last week tried to lead scoop wall again but forgot the moves and fell off, again. I thought I had E2 sorted too.

This week: climb something.

Excuses are work and gf B'day. Both are weak excuses for climbing.

Cheers, kev.
annak on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: Thank you!

So in case anybody ever wonders, here's how NOT to prepare for your first half-marathon:

Monday: go for 'one last run' and pull your hamstring
Tuesday: start feeling fluey
Wednesday: illness hits so bad you don't even get out of bed all day
Thursday - Saturday: do nothing as illness dissipates
Sunday: attempt to set alarm clock for half six but fail; wake up at ten past eight with a war-cry of F*CK, throw on clothes and sprint out of the door, get to Hyde Park just before nine but miss your wave and spend the next two hours overtaking people, which is good for morale but probably more tiring than it ought to be.

Net result: 1:56:49 - so I managed my sub-2hour goal, although not by quite as much as I'd hoped for. Not bad though considering my shocker of a week! Pretty happy, although miles 9 and 10 were a real fight, and my legs hurt quite a lot right now.

Next week: probably no running :). It's been quite a fun challenge, but as I pushed the distances I've started to get more and more niggles. I've slightly resented it taking my time away from the things I really love - climbing and weights - although part of my motivation for doing the HM was for exactly that reason: I do need to work on my endurance, that's what I struggle with, and avoid, the most.
Exile - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks for doing fit club again.

This week:

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - maybe!

Autumn: Concentrate on local some sport, see if I can work up to 7b, or HP E6

This winter - VI 7

Training:

M: am - 1hr climbing wall, working double blue PE / E traverse, pm - 45min general weights
T: pm - 1hr 40 PE / E traverses at wall
W: pm - 45min road run & 45min general weights
T: Rest
F: pm - 35min continual traversing on '7a' traverse at bridge. Tried to do a couple more after coming off but pretty shot by then
S: 2hrs easy MTBing
S: 1hr 30 Climbing at Trowbarrow - warmed up on Jean Jeanie, (VS 4c,) then TR x 2 Blow Out, (E6 6a.)

TRs of Blow Out went reasonably easily,(didn't fall off either time.) It's vertical fingery climbing which is as close to a forte as I get, my training at the 'bridge' replicates the type of climbing very well and frankly it isn't 'that' hard - with 8 bolts in it I doubt it would be any harder than French 6c. The gear is spaced but ok, (as long as it holds,) but the rock is pretty friable in places. Need to decide if I can rationalize it enough to lead.

The week to come - keep training endurance and fingers with Blow Out in mind and start to loose a little weight, just through cutting out snacking. Won't be able to get on Blow Out next weekend because of work commitments but mentally pencil it in for the weekend after.
mbh - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to annak:

Good work!
AJM - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

> AJM - pulls off super onsight tick on E4 Peryl and spots a route to big bouldering gains in the heel-hook area.

Cheers. Wasn't so much improving my bouldering I was interested in, more that in comparison with a lot of my peers I seem to underperform at bouldering - I can do the sorts of problems you get on UK lime route cruxes but the style of problem you get on boulder problems is a weakness, and either way I don't have much/any spare capacity to pull harder than I already do on route cruxes.

A lacklustre week. Bouldered Monday for a few hours, did a v3 arete flash and a v5 dyno eventually. That's been about it - tried to go to Huntsham but it was sopping midweek, and got unexpectedly wrecked Friday night which meant Saturday at stanage was a write off.

Hopefully better this week. Need to motivate myself for indoor training as the autumn progresses too, still just not that psyched so just end up sitting round when it's wet rather than hanging the fingerboard or hitting the wall.
mbh - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

M - 10.1 miles run, flat trail at 7:32 pace. A storming run, for me, with mile splits varying from 6:54 to 8:02. PB for that distance by 3 minutes.
T- nothing
W - 10.6 miles run, trails and coast path.
T - 10.0 miles run, coast path and road
F - am 5.1 miles run, road, pm 5.7 miles run, coast path and trails
S - 1.8 km swim then 10.0 miles run on flat trail, first 4 miles at 6:59 pace, overall time 6 minutes inside my previous PB for this route.
S - 11.3 miles, road and trail. Meant to go further, but stayed in bed too long and had to get back for elder daughter's imminent arrival.

62.9 miles of running, 1.8 km swimming, 1400 m ascent, 10 miles at better than 7:30 pace.

I have now averaged 52 mpw over the last 6 months, almost 60 mpw over the last 3 months and clocked up 2278 miles in the last year. Got to be pleased with that.

I am still guilty of doing the same sort of distance too often, but have mixed up the flat trails and roads with steppy coast paths, that now are becoming muddy and slippery. I have also managed to get some more speed into sections of the long runs, and I hope that continues. I got a real buzz from the Monday and Saturday runs.
Eagle River - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers mbh, and well done annak!

Goal: ashes, something at malham when Kilnsey season ends.

Mon: indoor bouldering, usual performance of V6s in a few goes, nowhere near v7s.

Wed: indoor routes, tried 2 7cs and an insanely hard 7b+, all failures, then doubled up on routes for stamina. Good session.

Thurs: YOGA! first time I've ever done it and thought it was ace. Tried the Vinyasa "flow" stuff which moves you quickly through positions and feels more like a core workout with some balancing and stretching thrown in. Really impressed though and will be back next week for sure.

Sun: Kilnsey. hadn't been for at least 5 weeks so wasn't expecting much but on the 1st and 2nd redpoint I got marginally further on the ashes than last time. on both attempts I got the ear in a controlled fashion then on the first go my hand pinged off it whilst throwing and the second go I threw successfully but missed the jug by going 2cm too high. Then session stamina fell off a cliff and I missed the ear 3rd attempt and gave up at the eyes on my 4th.

Feels like progress but I'm measuring it in mm now which is a bit tedious. Can't climb next weekend so praying for good conditions in 2 weeks.
Thickhead - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:
> I have now averaged 52 mpw over the last 6 months, almost 60 mpw over the last 3 months and clocked up 2278 miles in the last year. Got to be pleased with that.
>


That's really good going. I've 'only' averaged about 40mpw in 2013 in comparison. September was a big step up which I hope to continue through to my 60k race in December.

I wish they were mountains - they're hills with roads up them, although I sometimes follow the trails. I think Mt Eden is about 200m altitude. But they're all Mount something so it sounds good!

M: 5mile run up Mt Eden 7:20pace
T: 2.5mile warm up, 5k+ race 17:50 then 2.5mile cool down - was in about 5/6th place and closing in when everyone in front of me turned around and ran towards me - went the wrong way - oops! The guy immediately behind me ended up winning because he went the right way and finished in about 17:15.
W: 15mile run 7:15pace
T: 5mile run 7:20pace
F: 6mile run up Mt Eden 7:20pace
S: 7mile run up Mt Eden 7:20pace
S: 3mile walk up Mt Eden with 18kg weight on back.
IainRUK - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: Thanks not a bad time to be injured..

m: 13.6 mile road run
t: am: 6 mile road run. pm: 7 miles treadmill around 35 min 10 k but with efforts higher. felt OK
w: 10 mile trail run.. a lot of pain.. total breakdown.. flew to UK
t:8.6 mile road run felt sore from 6 miles. Physio diagnosed chronic fatigue and many issues in my hip, psoas, piriformis weakness.. not sure which one started all the issues..
f: 3.5 mile trail run.. then UKA celebration dinner in London.. lunching wih Hannah England..
s: 9 mile road/trail run felt OK flew back to germany
s: 4.6 mile road run 8 min mile drove to odense denmark
mrchewy - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: Pies pies pies!

Three weeks from me, due to the roadtrip through France and Spain.

Weight 79.something all week.

From the beginning... Drove to the Ariege - Auzat, never been on granite. Onsighted a couple of 5c routes and then tried to lead 6b for the first time. Broken hold beat me :-( Then 2 days at Alliat. Not used to Limestone and had to work right hard. No leading but got on 6b, 6a.
Suirana - l'Olla. I liked this place! Worked a 6b. F*ck me it was nails. Monos, two finger undercuts. Went to Can Melefots in the evening - some low grades for me but what a shit place to climb. Like climbing wall. Didn't bother. Then Can Matges de Dalt. Some nice slabs, almost onsighted a 6a but me foot slipped stepping back down. Argh. 6a and it had 3mm edges and a bloody mono WTF.
Montserrat - Led a V+ near St Cecelia, should have led the 6a+ instead of a toprope. Next day tried to climb some tower. What a pile of choss! Dangerous as. Ended up trying to do a 6b multi to finish but that was worse. Abbed off and glad we didn't kill anyone with rockfall. Then tried three slabs lower down the hill and the grades for the 6a+ were shockingly hard. I will never moan about grades again. When your mate who has led 7a abroad this year has to aid the thing... says it all really.
Back to the Ariege - Sinsat on some slabs but it was just too hot. Got well above my gear on one route and just couldn't see the foot moves. Climbed down, went back up, then lowered. Sacked it off as I was sweating rivers and hurt a finger bad.
Font - went to Bas-Cuvier. What an uninspiring hole. Felt like I'd gone to Mile End. Had my arse kicked on a 5b. Next day 95.2 and I liked this place better. Did some 5a slab but arsed kicked again.
Elephant. Sacked off bouldering and went for a RUN. Best decision ever! Got to see the forest and do some cardio, was gone over two hours. I have my running mojo back. Teatime, did a 5a in 8 goes but that was all I did all day. Then 91.2 and it was damp. Decided I hate bouldering in a group and just watched. Then when everyone went to that beach area, I climbed on my own. Almost flashed a 5b, top move got me, missed a foothold. Fingers finally had it.

This week -
Thu - boulder room for new set. Flashed all 20 V0s, a V2, some other stuff.
Fri - physio on shoulders. Ouch.
Sat - boulder room, did the V0s. Some easy yoga at home. I am inflexible.

Came to a few conclusions whilst I was away. I started climbing to make my big days out in the hills safer and quicker. Instead, I now don't do big days and spend half my time holding a rope. Sports climbing is REALLY not for me. I don't even get to peer over the top of what I climb up. I enjoy bouldering but only on my own. I get in the zone then - other people just distract me and I fall apart. Something I learnt at the Smart Climbing weekend and this holiday really showed it up.

Got my joy from running back tho!

Font - probably won't bother again. I'll boulder on my own in future and that probably means grit.
Ariege - Too hot in summer, too cold in winter and it seems to me to be a short season for rock climbing, like Scotland. Prefered the UK.
Suirana - What a place! Immense and if there was ever a reason to want to climb hard grades, that place is it. Some amazing sectors half way up the hill.
Montserrat - The best day of the trip for me was the failed tower climb that resulted in abseiling. Felt like I tried to do something proper and I'd head back there for walking and the via ferrata but not the climbing. Horrid conglomerate, utter choss in places.

Yep, I know what I need from my days out now. Need new goals.
Nick Russell on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:
> Nick Russell - gets polymath of the week award, and also fresher's flu (I had to look that up), soaks up the atmosphere of American Beauty and is STILL a student. How did the swimming trials go?

Yeah, I've only really got 1-2 years left of being a student... The swimming trials were only 50m so not really what I wanted. Still, got a respectable time (27.7) in the freestyle. After a truly rubbish dive I managed to claw it back and win the heat. The other strokes were varying levels of mediocrity. I haven't been contacted to join the competitive squad, but I haven't been to another uni training session since so I'm not sure of the outcome. I think I've decided I don't want the time commitment detracting from my climbing anyway. Maybe I'll join a masters club so I still get a chance to compete

This week:
M - lurgy
T - Swimming trials (total 1.8km then the heats)
W - Indoor bouldering. Man, those holds are abrasive! Skin felt like the limiting factor on the evening, but then it took 3 days for my forearms to recover.
T - Swimming (4.2km)
F - Core. A bit of a lacklustre session, but at least I did something
S - Rest
S - Climbing at Cheddar. Warmed up on Dinner Date (E1 5b). Then Rave Party (7a+).

I was really chuffed to get the RP on Rave Party! It's my first 7a+ and it went in one session. Felt desperate on the first bolt-to-bolt attempt, then 2 TR practices tidied things up and got it on the first RP (I was so close to peeling off the finishing jugs). I really enjoyed the process, and am psyched for more sport, hoping it stays dry for a few more weeks.

Short-term goals
This week - evaluate goals. Achilles is much improved but not perfect. I'm going to see if I can sustain climbing roughly as normal if I hold off on the running and keep doing the stretching/exercises prescribed by physio.

Mid- and long-term goals
Will sort all these out next week. See above.
Si dH - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mrchewy:
It isn't possible to express how jealous i am that you just spent 3 weeks in font, ariege and siurana! I really need to plan a trip somewhere in November.
Si dH - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:
Cheerd mbh. Not much done this week due to work, lack of sleep (wife struggling to sleep and up and down all night :( ), and minor lurgy.

M-T: nothing, away with work
W: nothing, late in the office catching up...
T: bouldering at alter rock. Good session, felt quite strong, quite short though.
F: no training, went to see Reel Rock 8, definitely recommended!
S: nothing, felt shit after 2(!) glasses of wine the night before and too little sleep, I just have no stamina these days.
S: bouldering at churnet. Did some easy warm ups at cottage rocks then went to try Thumbelina (highball 7a). Felt good at first, very close to crux on first 3 goes then got tired quite quickly and felt intimidated...not sure whether i really wanted to do the move or whether i was too scared of the bit above. Either way I didn't do it, but feel certain i would have if that crux move was the top of the problem. It's all in the mind...

Si
Luke Owens - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers MBH!

Realised this week that my weight has dropped to 10 stone 5 pounds and has stayed the same all week... I'm usually 10 stone 11 pounds and have been all year, must be the extra training/running?

Monday:
Lunch - 3km run in 15 minutes

Evening - Deadhangs:
Front 3 - 20mm edge: 4secs, 5secs, 5secs
Sloper 30's: 3secs, 4 secs, 4 secs
Middle 2 - 25mm edge: 11secs, 10secs, 12secs
Front 2 - 30mm edge: 6secs, 6secs, 8secs
Front 3 - 30mm edge: 5 pull ups

Warm down - Aerocap 30 minutes

Tuesday:
Pantymwyn bouldering - Ancap session trying a 15 move V6/7A boulder problem. Fell off the last move and fell on the "crux" ~12 moves in about 8 times. Good training!

Wednesday:
Aerocap 30 minutes

Thursday:
Lunch - Warm up - 8 Wide Grip pull ups, 8 Jug pull ups, 2 x 8 Dips, 20 Crunches.
Rock Ring pull ups:
Set 1 - Large: 6 Medium: 5 Small: 4
Set 2 - Large: 6 Medium: 5 Small: 4
Set 3 - Large: 6 Medium: 4 Small: 3

Friday:
Rest - Feeling slightly over-trained

Saturday:
Back at the Orme on Mayfair Wall to finish off Axle Attack.
Planned to warm up by going bolt-to-bolt on it but just climbed the whole thing easily placing the clips with no prior warm up. Felt awesome and not that hard. Psyched to tick the classic 7a+!

Had a good flash attempt on another classic "The Bloods" (F7a+). Got past the crux and hung around too long and pumped out. Didn't spend to long working out the bit I fell off and had a redpoint and made the stupid mistake of not throwing for a good hold and spent too long trying to move my feet pointlessly and pumped out again and another 2 redpoints I had were falling in the same place, pump was terminal after the 1st redpoint, again good training though!

Also did some laps on the V3 traverse in Split Infinity Cave before I went home, got me sweating and tired!

Sunday:
Rest

Note to self: Need to work on climbing faster and get used to climbing more dynamically on routes with good holds like The Bloods, I'm used to spending a lot of time getting my feet sorted and using technique to make things perfect when sometimes it's not essential. Good to be on routes that have good open handed holds for a change!

Things are going well on the endurance front so far, need to keep up the Aerocap! Wish I could get more good quality goes on routes in a session before my stamina dies though...
grubes - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: Thanks MBH
> grubes - flies in, takes top spot in the Chew Valley challenge, and crosses paths with a frozen Si. Later, they talk clothes.
suffered for a few days from that

STG (End of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Adventerous climbing on the isle of man in october
MTG (April 2014):
Winter Grit - 7A boulder
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man

Next week's goals:
Climb
At least 1 wall session

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rokt. Bouldered abit. flashed the 6a on the cirucit board then kept going until terminal pump.
Tried to top rope a 7a+ but pumped out on trying to unclip a draw of a greasy hold.
Core session
T: rest mate arrived from germany made toad in the hole drank beer
F: Beer at lunch, beer after work, Then went out in the evening got back in at3.30 crawled in to bed around 4.15
S: Tired. Bouldered at woodhouse shithole. did about 2 hours repeated a load of 5s and 4s tried a few 6A's and a 6B+ would of done stuff if i tried hard.
S: Rest.

Next week Goals:
Make up for this weekend
Notts beer festival (seems to counteract the last goal)
Climb more than once

All in all a bad week for training but probably a good rest week following squamish. now to start training power for font. Elbow is causing me a few issues at the min though.
Eagle River - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

7a+ in a day? Expecting some ambitious redpoint goals!
pork pie girl - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: cheers MBH.. no one else was on the settee at the time!

highlights.. me and nomics voicing our fears!!?? :oD... you should come to the crag when i lead BB. bring your popcorn and bean bag .. free entertainment :o)

this week for me.. took a while to feel that wanting feeling for malham.. infact wasn't interested once one of the sessions was cancelled (on thursday.. due to mate's child being ill) .. it took until saturday afternoon to want to get to malham and i think seeing kiwi bird's video on here definately got me psyched.. along with feeling strong on my pull ups.. weighted ones this week

monday
rest (little walk along the river after work .. trying to trick sarah into walking into cow pats and a bit of skimming - of pebbles not cowpats)

tuesday
lunch time PE session at rochdale wall.. improvements
pm interval training on the bike in the gym.. felt very good, core then weights and usual pull ups.. think 180 reps over about 9 sets.. most wide grip.. bar is painted and feels slippy

wednesday
interval training on bike at the gym.. again felt good, core then home

thursday
sarah offered to go to malham with me after mate had to cancel but i didn't want to go..went to uni wall and climbed routes (first time in along time.. warmed up on a 6b that i thought was a 5+ and reckoned i was very weak until i realised the pink was the 6b and not 5+, dogged a 7a (near top due to not being able to work move out as thought it was set for lanky folk) , dogged a 7b.. reckon it'll go soonish, did the 5+ (falling practise) laps on a 6c+ inc down climbing.. which didn't flow well enough for it to be of benefit, laps on a 6b.. no pump as too easy, led a 6c+ crimp fest to finish off
sandwich and brew then the gym.. interval training between bike and stepper, core

friday.
gym.. bike (worked at about 90 percent for 45 mins... too tired for intervals) core then bouldering .. started to work some of the problems but all i could think of was food and the vending machine was broken!

saturday.
sulky morning about not feel psyched for malham
uni wall.. warmed up on beast maker doing pull ups on the jugs.. nice not to feel like i'm greasing off like i do on the bar in the gym.. but the beast master is a bit narrow for wide grip pull ups.. added 16lb by using a weight vest and felt very strong.. only reduced each set by about 5 reps.. anyway i did about 180 reps all together between boulder problems.. (including using smaller holds without weight) best effort.. managing hardest moves on a v5/6
gym- stepper, weights and core

sunday- malham.. warm up on rose.. yuck.. bb on top rope.. .. did ok.. worked hard.. some of it wet but workable

PPG
Nomics4sale - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers for the confidence mbh, I need it!

STG (weekend): Langdale fell race
MTG (November): 7a/7b in Suirana
LTG (Winter): V6 BUK, 7b indoors

Mon: 5 mile local trail run, 200m ascent
Tues: BoulderUK, flash up to V4.
Weds: 7.7 mile local trail run, Pendle Hill, 340m ascent
Thurs am: circuits at Kendal, probably overdid it.
Thurs pm: 11.2 mile trail run Langdale, 1,002m ascent
Fri: 11.6 mile trail run, Langdale. 1,141m ascent
Sat: Kilnsey. Shocking, flailed around on top rope on some easier routes (up to 7a+).
Sun: 8 mile trail run, Langdale. 996m ascent.

Still not sure I can get round Langdale in time but I will try. I've done the mileage and hills for it so if I don't get round it'll be cos I got lost or just cos I'm just too slow. Climbing went very badly on Saturday, I think because of all the running I'd done combined with not being recovered from the circuits on Thursday. I'll be glad to get Langdale out of the way so I get back to climbing.
mbh - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

3700 m ascent in one week nomics! - that is really good going.
Needkraken - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:
> Needkraken - Oh no, not another boithday (I'd offer you cake, but I'm not sure you've got room for it after that week). Oh, have some anyway, but I'll be checking on that STG pull-up.
=) thanks, I've been slightly over-indulging and not training hard enoughs I think, the STG is still in progress. Was doing lowers from the bar at the wall on wednesday to try and strengthen the muscles a bit (and yes I am the weakest person in the world!) Apart from that it's been a crazy manic week in which I've really been feeling the lack of sleep and excercise

STG (next 4 weeks): New STG time; make a training plan for font, regularly get V3/4 indoors, try and get back into trad, get outdoors when I can. Most importantly try and keep up 3 sessions a week while my regular partners away
MTG (before winter): 6a bouldering regularly, keep leading trad (been over a month now so back to VDiff's) get on some sport and train hard when indoors, get in shape for font!
LTG (over next 6/9 months): get to know my technique and style, push through to HS trad, try and boulder 6b get on some sport

M: band rehearsal
T: went out for birthday dinner
W: wall with the freshers, got about an hour of climbing in before belay duties, taught some new people things and tried to keep people enthusiastic. Was really feeling drained from the weekend and work so was a V2 and below session rather than much pushing
T: panicked about upcoming weekend and rush packed, then round for dinner at a friends
F: straight down south after work, DJ'd from 9-3...then collapse
S: lunch at pub with friends, train up to sheffield for gig/clubbing then ended up heading into leeds from there for more clubbing and getting home way too late
S: expected to get out climbing but the general consensus was pub for lunch (fail)

So, absolutely knackering week, haven't climbed enough, but the end of the week picked up enough to get past the early week grumpiness

This week I have a tonne of rehearsals so will see how much other things I manage to fit in!
Sankey - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: Cheers for doing fitclub again mbh.

Managed Dead End Job on Saturday, so seem to be speeding up at 7a RPs. Stated working Hartley Hare too. Now got a few 7a+ things to finish off (Appetite, Hartley, Direct Flight), and commit to the 7b quest too, probably on Stickly Wicket as WYSWIG is going to be wet over the winter. Should look for a 7b at Malham to try too. Hopefully got a cheeky midweek session to look forward to this week as well.

M:
T: Circuit board at the Edge. Flashed the 3 easy circuits up to 6b+. Dropped the 6c+ right at the end on a second go after getting some beta for it. Few laps of the easier circuits, and worked the lower bit of the hardest one (7b ish)
W:
T:
F:
S: Malham, Did Dead End Job 2nd lead RP go after a top rope. Started working Hartley Hare
S:

STG: More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(1)

MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket - started working

LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling
Exile - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Great prep, now rest, rest, rest - couple of very easy jogs and some climbing this week.
Nick Russell on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to annak:
> (In reply to mbh) Thank you!
>
> So in case anybody ever wonders, here's how NOT to prepare for your first half-marathon:

Well done on the half! Getting it done having had that sort of week just before demonstrates how much of the preparation is done months before rather than last minute...

My half marathon experience consisted of waking up with a cold on the morning of the race. A good dose of denial (and MTFU) saw me do it anyway. Two hours after, it hit me like a train, took me out for about two weeks.... Lesson learnt, I guess!
Nick Russell on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:
> I have now averaged 52 mpw over the last 6 months, almost 60 mpw over the last 3 months and clocked up 2278 miles in the last year. Got to be pleased with that.

That's impressive, and well done on the PBs this week! How are you finding running every day? I assume some of those are much easier pace?
Nick Russell on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
> 7a+ in a day? Expecting some ambitious redpoint goals!

Yeah, I'm still trying to calibrate myself for sport climbing goals. I've probably complained before that I find it hard to get out to even the local sport climbing at Cheddar, Brean or Wye without a car, and I think this has stopped me from starting a long-term project. I'm probably going to do something about that (i.e. get a car) this winter, so we'll see.
Ali - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Good luck1 I'm sure you'll be fine - then get back to the training for yourn Nov trip ;o)
Ali - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: Thanks mbh

M - rest
T - run to work (50mins)
W - cycle in to work (via new route!) 44 mins, but should go down to 40 or under once I know my way. Enjoyed not going on the big roads
T - Biscuit Factory, tried lots on the red circuit, did some - nice problems. Cycled home the normal (big road) route - nearly had a head on with car doing 30 and not giving way on roundabout. Scary.
F - Ran in but felt knackered so v slow
S - Too achey and tired to contemplate doing anything
S - BMF in morning - went in the blues to take it easy and try wrist out. Went to Reach later for short session but v poor - I always get totally shut down on the bouldering there, particularly when on my own. Still feeling v achey and tired too.

Today I feel like a cripple, so no climbing tonight - how can I possibly still be aching from last Thursday?? It doesn't take me this long to recover normally, and I don't think I've been eating differently or anything... Got rather a week of enforced rest again so I guess I'll be ok again for next week - annoying though. Pretty miserable at work which isn't helping the motivation!

On another note, planning a weekend up in Yorkshire 8-10th Nov with climbing/non-climbing friends for my birthday. Got a bunkhouse booked and there are a few places spare - if anyone fancies joining in, drop me a message.
maria85 - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:
This last week has been full-on into the training plan. Going well. Unfortunately I didn't really take advantage of the sunny weekend, too much non-climbing stuff that had to be done. I think my psyche has definitely shifted into training mode rather than climbing mode, feel like I need a break from the rock for a little while to get my mojo back!

Bike commutes every day, one way only on 3 days though.
First half of the week off running to let my foot settle after the Rab.
M: Core session.
T: Fingerboard stamina sesh (2 x 10mins on, 2 x 5mins on). Went out too hard on the first one which screwed the last two. Aiming to build this up to 4 x 10mins by using less small holds to start with!
W: Climbing Barn - bouldering volume. 35ish problems up to V4. Core/push up session.
T: Leeds Wall 4x4s. Mainly on 5/5+'s but threw in a few 6a/6a+ too.
F: Ran to work (10km, 1 hour). Core/push ups.
S: Nothing, extreme vacuuming and family commitments. Ate too much (mum's bday), felt bloated all day Sunday :-(
S: Popped into Wilton on the way back from my parents', got on Ann (E1 5b) straight away as everything easier was busy - bad idea. Head & heart weren't in it and I bailed. Partner finished it and I fell off many times on 2nd. Oops.
Run (intervals - 6x 1min hard, 1min jog plus warm up and down) - I've never really run fast or done intervals so found this really tough. Core session/push ups after but only managed about half of my usual, totally beasted from the run, last night's indulgence and a busy week I think.

So, that's the 'conditioning' phase over (in 2 weeks instead of 6 as suggested...). Onto Low Intensity Endurance now for the next 6 weeks. My Morocco trip falls in the middle of that, so will have a week of training not TOO hard immediately before it, but otherwise continue as per the plan... unless anyone has any better suggestions?!
ads.ukclimbing.com
pork pie girl - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Ali: re recovery..eating enough protein? keeping muscles warm after exercising by wrapping up warm or are you going out in the cold?

best thing for achey muscles is getting them active again.. star jumps in the office acceptable?
pork pie girl - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to maria85: know what you mean about the transition from rock to indoor training..glad to hear i'm not the only one! hoping to get my proper psyche back as malham has a good few sessions left in it yet :o)
Eagle River - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

A "good few sessions left"???

Malham season hasn't even started yet! you know it's all about the depths of winter -10 sessions. Don't act like you won't be there :-)
maria85 - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: That's a helluva lot of running, good effort! Good luck for the race, sure you will be fine. As you said, you've done the work for it so just concentrate on keeping going on the day. Have confidence!
annak on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

So you had a good time on Lundy then? I thought it was like the ideal climber's retreat, nothing to do except climb and go to the pub :)
Nick Russell on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to annak:
> (In reply to Nick Russell)
>
> So you had a good time on Lundy then?

Yeah, brilliant thanks! It was my second time there, so I knew my way around a bit more. It's amazing how much difference it makes with finding the approaches quickly. Planning next year's trip already... Are you going back?
maria85 - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: I know, I actually felt guilty at the weekend as I had no real desire to go climbing and when I did felt very much like I was climbing 'for the sake of it' - resulting in a piss poor performance.

I'm sure you'll get some psyche back soon, as will I... separation makes the heart grow fonder and all that! We all need a break sometimes, whether it's from climbing, work or the other half :-)
pork pie girl - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Eagle River: a good few sessions left before enforced indoor sessions due to malham not being doable for only a little while... didn't we just get going again at malham first weekend of feb this year? i couldn't climb outside after the end of october because of situation with my dad.. so not sure how long you lot managed to keep going.. mid novemberish?? so that's a a break of a few weeks?

this will be my first year being able to keep climbing to the bitter end at malham.. surely we get a justifiable break ER??!!

you telling me it'll be in nick to just keep going for teh rest of my life without breaks!!!

and yes i will be there in the depths of winter :o)
pork pie girl - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to maria85: i just need a break from having to scream my way up a route!!!!
Pagan - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to maria85:

> Fingerboard stamina sesh (2 x 10mins on, 2 x 5mins on)

What does this involve?

As someone who's climbed with you a reasonable amount, I'm not sure a periodised plan (I'm assuming this is what you're doing given that you're referring to 6 weeks of low intensity endurance...is this basically ARC training? If so you should be doing this regularly anyway if you can be bothered, not just for a 6 week stint as ARC gains are notoriously slow) is what you need and I certainly would try and replace fingerboarding with another wall session of some description - your biggest weaknesses are mostly down to a lack of mileage (for movement), head issues (for trad) and unwillingness to get stuck into a problem if you can't do it within a couple of goes. Fingerboarding is fine as a supplementary activity; if you have a wall within easy reach you'd be much better doing another session of bouldering or routes/circuits.

What do want to achieve from this training plan? What are you aiming to improve?
mbh - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:
> (In reply to mbh)
> [...]
>
> That's impressive, and well done on the PBs this week! How are you finding running every day? I assume some of those are much easier pace?

Thanks Nick. It may seem anal to report all these numbers, but I have the spreadsheet that works them all out, so why not, and when I started out (again) 18 months ago, after 2 years of little exercise and 9 kg of work-related weight gain, my main goal, albeit a diffuse one, was to keep going into old age. When the time came, I wanted to be able to be like the 85 year old I know who walks 6 miles every day on the local trails, or like the retired couple I met at the Sasc Fura hut in the Bregaglia, years ago, spirited enough and physically able to walk in that kind of terrain. Hence the annual weekly average means more to me than the even higher averages of recent weeks.

I have concentrated on upping the mileage, just to see if I can, and because it seems likely to me that that will gradually increase my mechanical strength and resilience and help me to do the long mountain challenges I would like to do. I also fear speed sessions more than I fear distance, and I like the peace of mind and scenery I get during a 10 mile run, as well as the glow I get from it afterwards (that doesn't stop me fretting about it beforehand). My backside used to hurt all the time when I ran, but not much any longer, and in fact I don't seem to get injured. Mostly, the battle is mental. I found when I tried the BGR alone that the toughest thing was fighting the will to give up. I hope that all these long runs will help me find the mental resilience to resist that temptation. The practice of making myself do them, day after day, and the knowledge afterwards that I did them, will help me succeed next time I try the BGR, is my hope.

Day after day, yeah, I am tired, today especially, it seems, and most days I don't aim for, let alone get a PB (except when I realise I am on a Strava segment and feel good) , but after several weeks of 60+ miles, which means a 10 mile run 6 days a week, I thought I would try to push the speed for a few miles each in short "x in y" stretches within longer runs. If I don't, I doubt I'll ever get faster. I would like to get the standard mbh plod down to sub 8:00 miles, so that that becomes my norm, when I am not trying too hard, and push the distance for which I can maintain sub 7:00 mile pace up from 4, outside, to 10. That will be hard.
annak on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Had it not been for the quarter/halfway/threequarter wall thing we probably wouldn't have found any of the routes - it's really hard to see where you're going from the top. In fact we actually did an accidental first ascent when we mistook needle rock for the devil's chimney... oops :)

I loved the place and am definitely going back, but going to leave it a couple of years, partly to make the heart grow fonder, and partly to hopefully go up a grade band or two and have all new routes to go at.
stevemarkperry - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers mate. Nothing much to report due to fighting off the lurgy. Weight still hovering around 142143 lbs so happy with that.

MF: Nothing
S: 10 mile walk with the misses
S: 15km mountain bike ride with the misses

Hoping for a better week this week!
Ali - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: I thought protein but I did have a lot of lentils last week (though no protein shake as run out of powder...). And I've been keeping muscles fairly active with walking, jogging etc. Though I think perhaps as I cycled home after session I maybe didn't get the protein in early enough? Maybe need to take more food to the wall.

Re Malham - I'm pretty sure bits are climeable all year round, though not perhaps the left side... Def hoping Malham and / or Trollers fry in Nov though!
mattrm - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

In the interests of being honest, I didn't do fingerboarding yesterday, but have done it this evening. Slack!
Joughton on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: thanks mbh, that's really nice to hear!

Decent week, largely dominated by the BLCCs.

Mon - rest
Tue - busy
Wed - MCC routes session, flashed a 7a, two 7a+s and made good progress on the 8a.
Thurs - rest
Fri - rest
Sat - junior leading. First route was about 7a, crimpy horror show which everyone flashed. Second route was steep and powerful, wasn't very happy with how I climbed but overall I managed a respectable 7th position. Stayed up late at the hotel, only got six hours sleep:(
Sun - senior leading, thought I'd go along for some extra experience. First route was another crimpy horror show, this time more like 7c. Felt on track to top it but greased off a sloppy crimp whilst swapping feet - gutted. Next route was obscenely powerful from the go and u had a terrible time on it! Finished 18th, but it was fun to compete against people like Barrans, Caff and Hamer.

I definitely learnt a few things though, and I'm trying to adapt my climbing style a bit to involve less faffing and climbing more efficiently - basically only climbing like a trad climber when I'm actually on a trad route. Also decided work is still needed in the power department so I'll be bouldering more still. However I applied some of my ideas to a session today, climbing much faster and being more efficient with my feet, and I had a really good session at Stockport (bumped into Eagle River) so maybe I've stumbled across something good. Or maybe I'm just speaking too soon.

Cheers, Jake
maria85 - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Pagan:

>
> What does this involve?
>
Feet on (using an etrier so you can move them up and down) and moving between the biggest holds at random for x amount of time. So, basically, like being on a juggy route, but without going to the wall. I, 1) can't afford more than 2 wall sessions a week, 2) only have bouldering within easy reach and 3) will lose the plot if I go to the Barn more than once a week. Not all of us live opposite the Depot. And it gives me a good excuse to catch up on some trashy TV at the same time ;-)

> your biggest weaknesses are mostly down to a lack of mileage (for movement)
Absolutely correct, hence doing more of it.

>head issues (for trad)
Even more correct, however this is Fit Club not Mental Club and I'll deal with that stuff outside of here.

>and unwillingness to get stuck into a problem if you can't do it within a couple of goes.
I don't think you've actually watched me boulder that much. I don't work things as much as you, sure, but that is partly due to wanting to do more milage (see above) than spend ages on one thing, and partly due to time spent at different walls. Last winter I spent a lot of time working various problems and eventually did the majority. Over summer I haven't, because I've barely climbed inside.

In answer to the other questions: yes, it is basically ARC, and yes I am aware than I am not going to make huge improvements within a few weeks. It is not something I've done regularly though and there is no reason not to follow a 'plan' to kickstart that. Which brings me to why I'm doing it and what I want to achieve: primarily to follow a reasonably structured plan to kick my own ass into actually going and doing something productive. I'm much better at pushing myself when I have a box (or 20) to tick than when I don't, that's just my personality. Last winter I bouldered a lot with no structure whatsoever to it and went roped climbing/did something more than 6 moves long on a couple of occasions. This year I want to change that. One of my main goals is to find out if I have the will-power to keep going with it week in week out through the winter, which is a total aside from the actual climbing.

If you really want to discuss whether I should be following some structure of my own choosing, or just popping down the wall at random instead then we can do it over a beer rather than on here. Hope the start of the PhD is going well?

grubes - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to Needkraken:
> (In reply to mbh)
> This week I have a tonne of rehearsals so will see how much other things I manage to fit in!

Fancy Depot thursday night?
grubes - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to maria85:
> (In reply to Pagan)
> >head issues (for trad)
> Even more correct, however this is Fit Club not Mental Club and I'll deal with that stuff outside of here.
The only way to get a good trad head is to do lots of trad. Taking lead falls on to gear is good for the head backing off and reversing to the floor is not.
The problem with grit is it short and can generally been reversed. Which makes it good for soloing but not for pushing it on lead.
grubes - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to Joughton:
Well done jake.
Espcially with your enforced break from climbing recently. you have winter to get fit and work your way up the ladder.
Or just get brutally stron and fit so you can crush an outside 8a (and harder)
grubes - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to mrchewy:
> (In reply to mbh)
Extremely jealous of your trip :)

>I enjoy bouldering but only on my own. I get in the zone then - other people just distract me and I fall apart.
A lot of the time I am the same. At indoor walls mainly I will walk off and climb on my own for 30mins or so before joing back up with people. I enjoy the peace but other times the group can help you (espcially over a bad landing)
> Font - probably won't bother again. I'll boulder on my own in future and that probably means grit.
Its a shame you had a bad experience in font. on the bright side Grit is almost in season just need a nice 15c drop in temps and it will be perfect again. I dug out my duvet jacket ready
> Suirana - What a place! Immense and if there was ever a reason to want to climb hard grades, that place is it. Some amazing sectors half way up the hill.
I desperately want to go here and margalef

Look on the brightside you got away and spent time in the sun. The climbing may not of always been the best but you had an adventure
grubes - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
so whats your plan for the "malham" cough grit cough season? GBH?
grubes - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell: congrats on the 7a :-) nice combination a trad E grad and a new 7. Awesome day out!
mrchewy - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to grubes: Don't get me wrong - I had a cracking holiday!

I guess the problem is I really don't feel like I had an adventure at all. Last summer, halfway up the Eiger on my own and in a storm felt like an adventure. Climbing a few metres of rock in a forest with no views felt nothing like one.

I like mountains, more than I thought and I need big days out. I was chatting at the wall last night to a friend who'd done Flying Buttress whilst I'd been on the Cromlech in August and it suddenly struck me - the reason I started climbing was to be able to solo stuff like Flying Buttress safely, confidently and quickly. Instead, I'm belaying someone on single pitch and even if it is the Cromlech, it's not enough for me. I thought I didn't like grit but I realised this year that it's actually the venues I don't like. The Roaches was the first time I actually went to a grit venue and wanted to climb.

Get to Suirana chap, seriously. All the nice natural lines from what I could see were all from say 7b upwards... such a cool place. Even went skinny dipping in the ressie.
Nick Russell on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to annak:
> In fact we actually did an accidental first ascent when we mistook needle rock for the devil's chimney... oops :)

I hope you wrote it up in the climbers' log book ;) Funny you mention that, the only time I got really lost on Lundy was on Integrity (Needle Rock). I knew I was meant to step round the arete on the right but I just couldn't see where. Ended up making a sketchy traverse left, wrapping the rope almost the whole way round the stack, and eventually making the top!
Eagle River - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to grubes:
> (In reply to Joughton)

> Or just get brutally stron and fit so you can crush an outside 8a (and harder)

I think 8a would be a formality for Jake! 1 session, 2 sessions tops. It's a shame yorks limestone isn't more convenient for him as he'd crush stamina fests like urgent action, predator etc.

Still unsure of a Malham project for me, possibly free and easy on top deck, maybe raindogs/zoolook. Think I've got a lot of routes around 7c-8a to try before going balls out for an 8a+.
grubes - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
> (In reply to grubes)
> I think 8a would be a formality for Jake!
I thought some thing similar but you still have to get the tick.

Well if you do Free and easy then work The groove? That could set you up for something truely epic ....
Sankey - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to mrchewy: I can really empathise with this. My main draw to climbing was adventure, and I defintely went through a phase where doing anything other than long multipitch / alpine stuff on a holiday would leave me wondering if I was almost wasting time.

Recently this has changed considerably for me, but only through accepting the nature of the "game" in the other forms of climbing. For example as you say Siruana is amazing, and if you see lines at 7b that you would love to climb, and totally commit to the process of achieving this it could give an adventure that is just as rich as any mountain route.

I almost think the problem is in half commiting to bouldering/sport climbing, when you probably don't get the best from that discipline, and may well prefer following your heart and maximising your time in the mountains.
Eagle River - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to grubes:

Ha! I've done 2 7c's and 1 8a and you're setting me up for a 60m 8b+. Your faith in my abilities may be a touch misplaced!
grubes - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
:o)
Well when you tick Free and easy you might as well look at the extension for the top out. Then if you tick the groove you might as well give it a go :P
Plus its only 8b ;) http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=175971
Eagle River - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to grubes:

Oh only 8b?? Sign me up!
mrchewy - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to Sankey: Summed up where I am quite well there - nice to know others have felt the same. Story of my life really, always tried to do too many things and never just focused on one but then I've experienced so much stuff. Catch 22 eh?

One thing the trip did show is my inability to see some foot moves, certainly on limestone. So decided to go back to basics this week to do what Lucy Creamer suggested and I've been pottering around on the V0s, climbing slowly utterly focused on keeping straight arms if at all possible and using my feet and legs to get the moves nailed.

Maybe if I get my basic technique nailed then I'd enjoy redpointing but at the minute, if I don't get something within a couple of goes then I just walk away and do something else.

I gotta sort out whatever my goals are tho and sharp as I don't want to spend the winter unfocused.
annak on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Haha we might have climbed the same thing!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=271959
Nick Russell on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to annak:
> Haha we might have climbed the same thing!

Looks pretty similar! I might have actually started up Integrity, but otherwise it sounds exactly the same. You should do Devil's Chimney next time. I think the guidebook description puts people off with the HVS 5b grade, but it's not that bad: probably just a tough 5a move off the ground.

Nick Russell on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to grubes:
> nice combination a trad E grad and a new 7. Awesome day out!

Yeah, that plus the sunshine made it a very good day!

For other Cheddar climbers on here, how's Heart Leaf Bluff through the winter? It gets the sun, which seems like a positive, but I could already see a wet streak forming (not yet affecting the routes). Does it seep? I'm thinking about starting on the 7b+ Fettered Trajectory, or even the 7c Driller Killer but it would be a shame if they were out for the winter in a few weeks!
AJM - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

I tried driller killer during the wet part of last summer and it was minging.

Of the routes I've done, I'd say that:
- Remnant has some quite good routes for staying dry (Spy in the Sky, Everyday Lives, Its a Kind of Magic). Total suntrap until 2 or so.
- Freaky Wall has stuff like Speedfreak and a few other things which rarely seem to be wet and gets good afternoon sun.
- Shakin and Still Waters are fairly reliable too, although ShangriLa isn't so good, seepage from the undercuts.
- Burmese wall, I've never seen things like Mercurian or Pirates wet, the steep right hand side, although it doesn't get the sun in winter at all really.
- Ginsberg Wall in general isn't too bad either.

And there's always the beach routes at Brean - further right can seep more but things like Tide Rising are almost always dry (and its good too).
Nick Russell on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM: Thanks for the suggestions. We were going to have a go on Still Waters on Sunday, but it was just a bit damp round there. The route wasn't wet, but there was a heavy dew and it all felt pretty greasy.

Speedfreak and Its a Kind of Magic are definitely on the list after you suggested them a few weeks ago.
annak on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

We did do Devil's Chimney in the end, it was pretty good although I'm fairly sure a big bit has fallen off the first pitch, the description still didn't quite match up.
AJM - on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

I have a seemingly perpetual (until seepage begins anyway) need for belayers right next to its a kind of magic, and I've also got the beta well wired for that and for some of the other routes there as well. Just saying, like ;)
Nick Russell on 08 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM: It sounds like we can come to some sort of agreement ;) I'll let you know when I can get there. Saturday, or some afternoon(s) next week, I expect.

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