/ Rack for Ogwen

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Crag Pony - on 06 Oct 2013
Gonna be climbing in Snowdonia for the 1st time at the end of the month (yes its a disgrace I know after 20 odd years:s). What sort of rack? Ogwen area low grade multi pitch routes. Presume medium to small with the odd big piece and plenty of slings. Please feel to tell me different :)
jimjimjim on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to Crag Pony: After 20 years of climbing I would of though you'd know what you'll need for low grade none specific routes. Just take a normal rack. Whatever you take the route would of been done with less. Have fun.
Trangia - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to jimjimjim:
> (In reply to Crag Pony) After 20 years of climbing I would of though you'd know what you'll need for low grade none specific routes. Just take a normal rack. Whatever you take the route would of been done with less. Have fun.

+1
r0x0r.wolfo - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to Crag Pony: It's an okay question if you're coming from the peak district. Full set of nuts. Cams dmm dragon sizes: 1-4 will be most used, you can throw in some smaller cams for some quick pieces. doubles of cams 2 and 3 may be uselful, chuck some hexes of those sizes in if not, welsh rock will take them. 8-14 draws, depening how cams are racked and if you keep spare crabs for belays.
andyathome - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to Crag Pony:
> Presume medium to small with the odd big piece and plenty of slings. Please feel to tell me different :)

Medium to large wires. Size 1-3 might get little use. And the odd hex.

And as you climb think of the gear the first ascentionists had at their disposal.......
andyathome - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:
> It's an okay question if you're coming from the peak district. Full set of nuts.
That's a cracking piece of intuition there, Wolfy :-) How did you know the home turf?
Sam Cooke - on 06 Oct 2013
Some climbs may require a trowel.
jimjimjim on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo: A normal rack then...
r0x0r.wolfo - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to jimjimjim:
> (In reply to r0x0r.wolfo) A normal rack then...

Normal is relative. You use more nuts and of generally larger, less cams that the peak (as andy pointed out). You need double the quickdraws/belay crabs. You will use more larger slings and possibly a cordelette if that's your thing. Hexes are actually of some use. So unless you set off on peak routes with 15 quickdraws, there can be some differences. Stop being an arse.
The Pylon King on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to Crag Pony:

No cams!!
jimjimjim on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo: 15 quick draws! No you're right there, I don't own 15 youth. I haven't got the strength to place that much gear. You must be a real rock jock. Take no notice of me.
highclimber - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to Crag Pony: You'll definaitely need a rope. don't forget the rope, Oh, and a harness. mustn't forget the harness. you'll definitely need one of them.
jimjimjim on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to highclimber: At last someone talking sense. ;)
Jamie B - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to Crag Pony:

A single set of nuts is rarely enough for multi-pitch routes, I'd double-up in at least the middle sizes (3-8).
r0x0r.wolfo - on 06 Oct 2013
In reply to jimjimjim:
> (In reply to r0x0r.wolfo) 15 quick draws! No you're right there, I don't own 15 youth. I haven't got the strength to place that much gear. You must be a real rock jock. Take no notice of me.

But as you say, you climb always with multi pitch gear. I think the portaledge at stanage was a little over the top though. I've taken 15 for 160 feet of climbing before, with some making up the belay but as grit is only 20 feet long I assume you solo everything.
Crag Pony - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Crag Pony: So its rope, harness, twelfty quickdraws, tweeds, portaledge and I ll need to get a "man" to drive the Rolls and porter the gear and port to the crag. I actually have a pair of hobnails in the shed somewhere. Those ll cut through the polish nicely;). Oh and minidigger. Ta folks.
Trangia - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Crag Pony:
> (In reply to Crag Pony) So its rope, harness, twelfty quickdraws, tweeds, portaledge and I ll need to get a "man" to drive the Rolls and porter the gear and port to the crag. I actually have a pair of hobnails in the shed somewhere. Those ll cut through the polish nicely;). Oh and minidigger. Ta folks.

and the Colemans, did anyone remember the Colemans?

Ann S on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Crag Pony:

I always find Moacs do very nicely in Welsh boiler plate slabs.
ianstevens - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to Crag Pony: Tweed, a flat cap, and a shoe lace for abseils.

And a porter to carry your food. And a boy to carry the porters food. The boy can carry his own food.
Crag Pony - on 07 Oct 2013
In reply to ianstevens: Food for the boy! Good lord empire wasn't built by feeding waifs. He ll have a damn good thrashing and be bloodt grateful by jove.

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