In reply to stp:
> Routesetting is what makes or breaks a good climbing wall.
Couldn't agree more.
> I didn't do that many routes but these again seemed a mixture. Some of easier warm ups were definitely not so hot: machine gun line of holds. The routes on the steeper walls seemed better though. Some good routesetters involved but I imagine they've got quite a big job in routesetting this entire wall from scratch.
I was in early to check out AW. To be fair they'd only set a pretty small proportion of their vast wall acreage at the time, but I was a bit disappointed with the routes. Not very imaginative. My climbing partner, who is a very good climber but not very tall, was extremely unimpressed with a couple of them: reeeeeach - crimp - crank - stand up - repeat until at the top, or just fed up with it.
It must have been pretty daunting as a route setter looking at a wall that size with no holds on it yet. Hopefully they can raise their game. And to be fair, while the standards in Sheff are high I've climbed equally poor routes from time to time in both of the other lead walls.
The Works deserve an honourable mention here - the standard of their setting is just superb at the moment. Not too much of the infamous Percy reeeeeach! to frustrate the shorties, and even the easiest circuit in the place is interesting and engaging.
> All in all a pretty nice addition to the Sheffield walls. Just hope it doesn't put any of the other walls out of business: the Foundry, The Works and the Edge are all excellent facilities, well managed with great routesetting.
Time will tell. But remember all the doom and gloom when the Works was opening? Not only did that not put a serious dent in the Foundry or the Edge's business, it didn't even do for the Matrix.
If anything it stimulated more demand for the other walls as well as creating a whole new scene of its own. It was the Works that made bouldering make sense for me. I was just never strong enough to get the most out of the Wave.
I doubt AW will have any impact on the Works at all. The Edge will be fine. As several posters have already said - location, location location. Perhaps Dave would have preferred to build AW in S7 or S11, but there's no getting away from it - the Don Valley is where the huge industrial buildings are.
Interesting times for the Foundry ahead, perhaps. They were the first and best for so long, but most of the punters don't care much about history. (When was the last time you heard someone complaining that the Al Rouse wall at Sheffield Poly has gone?) They'll be ok. Here's to the next 20 years.
Oh, and the whole Awesome Walls/Starbucks analogy? That's just bonkers. Get a grip.