In reply to Heike:
There's a pitch on it which is truly memorable. A thin flake high up with two or three bolts for aid to start. You look at these bolts 2m apart on a blank wall and it looks impossible (but it isn't). Then you layback up and over the flake with it booming as you do because it's so thin (but at least 20m high). Hans (the Hut guardian) persuaded me to do it, and no excuses were allowed - I didn't have a guidebook.
"How do I get there?" Follow the via ferrata - I've built one.
"How do I find it in the dark?" Follow me; I'm guiding it tomorrow
"I don't have a route description" Same answer, except that after he'd done pitch one, he went off like a bullet and disappeared.
It was really a bit too hard for my client and I was only an aspirant guide. But Hans wasn't having any excuses.
The bivouac wasn't that uncomfortable.