/ Dorset - Agglestone

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thefuturesmiles - on 14 Oct 2013
Does anyone know if there are any topos for the Agglestone, or any recorded climbs other than the the 1 problem on ukc?
ben b - on 15 Oct 2013
In reply to thefuturesmiles: my recollection is that pretty much every possible boulder problem has probably been done - but the old Swanage guide said something along the lines of "numerous problems on the overhanging face or a very easy one round the other side", without giving details.

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steve taylor - on 15 Oct 2013
In reply to thefuturesmiles:

There was a topo on-line a while back, but it seems to have been deleted. It's pretty fragile (esp after rain), so locals aren't keen on producing a topo as it will get hammered.

Plenty of problems and eliminates all the way around it. Here's a few of the obvious lines... treat my grades with a huge pinch of salt.

North Face:
The obvious seam up the overhanging wall using the high pocket on the right is V2. Getting to this pocket on layaways from the right is about the same V2/3.

West Face:
The easiest line going leftwards up the overhanging prow is V1 on jugs, but the topout feels high. From the same starting jugs, straight up past the shelf is V3 - sit start makes it V4 - scarily high with a tough finish.
Starting low on the right side of the "blank" face and going straight up on spaced holds is V2/3. From the same start, going up and left to finish at a slot is V3-V8 depending on the combination of holds.

South Face:
Start at the back of the roof lying down and climbing out to the low topout is about V2.

East Face:
Lots of 'up' problems all V0-V2 plus a low traverse at about V3.

There you go - that'll keep you busy for a while.

If you visit a few times there are loads of eliminates, especially on the west face.

Take care with snapping/sandy holds and don't climb there after rain.
Al Evans on 15 Oct 2013
In reply to steve taylor: There was a topo on line, I have this vague memory it may have had something to do with the local scout troop?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=125963
PeterJuggler - on 15 Oct 2013
In reply to thefuturesmiles: My understanding is that the sandstone is so soft that the problems are constantly changing. That's why there's no topo.
steve taylor - on 15 Oct 2013
In reply to PeterJuggler:
> (In reply to thefuturesmiles) My understanding is that the sandstone is so soft that the problems are constantly changing. That's why there's no topo.

Not really - the holds do change a little but not drastically (one whole problem has gone from the east side recently though). The main reason is to keep traffic down on a fragile site. I've considered writing an article on the Aggle for Climber in the past, but have backed-off at the last minute due to such concerns.
victorclimber - on 15 Oct 2013
In reply to thefuturesmiles: why bother with a topo just go and climb ,and either you can do the problems or you cant,hope for a sunny windless day ..
steve taylor - on 15 Oct 2013
In reply to victorclimber:

A light breeze keeps the midges/mossies off.
thefuturesmiles - on 17 Oct 2013
In reply to steve taylor: That's awesome steve! Thanks for the tips. Any idea what the awkward pinch problem on the (i think it's the) north face goes at? Starting low, pulling to a good edge with the left then grabbing the pinch with the right and pulling up to a jugs? Didn't send it but guessing it'll be around v4...
thefuturesmiles - on 17 Oct 2013
In reply to steve taylor: Ps, I'm with you about the traffic but it would be cool to log some stuff on ukc, with or without the topo.
steve taylor - on 21 Oct 2013
In reply to thefuturesmiles:
> (In reply to steve taylor) That's awesome steve! Thanks for the tips. Any idea what the awkward pinch problem on the (i think it's the) north face goes at? Starting low, pulling to a good edge with the left then grabbing the pinch with the right and pulling up to a jugs? Didn't send it but guessing it'll be around v4...

Not sure which one you mean - everything (only 2-3 problems) I've done on the North side was from a standing start. Do you mean the West face (opposite side to the sea) like in this picture:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=26428
thefuturesmiles - on 23 Oct 2013
In reply to thefuturesmiles: Steve, north side, heading there now. Hopefully send it :)
thefuturesmiles - on 23 Oct 2013
In reply to thefuturesmiles: WEST face! I feel special! :0/ just had a great play on the east face and it's time to try the pinch ;)
steve taylor - on 23 Oct 2013
In reply to thefuturesmiles:

That photo of Joff Cook I posted earlier on up the thread is the pinch problem. Grade depends on what holds you use to get to the pinch - I've generally dynoed from there to the juggy slot. Probably V3/4, but height dependent (Joff is very tall, so it's only V2 for him ;o) )
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thefuturesmiles - on 24 Oct 2013
In reply to steve taylor: Nice one steve. That's a great picture :) had a good session yesterday and it was good to have some kind of focus so thanks again for the info. Didn't send the pinch though! Next time. It's a quality hold that wants to be used! Tried two approaches; one from low under the roof to the left, climbing rightwards, and getting the pinch with the right hand; the other approach was more direct, like in the pic, but haven't tried the dyno yet. Could be the answer :)

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