A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Joughton - finds that speed is the key to a string of tough indoor onsights then impresses at the MCC
kevster - invokes the 18 hour rule (Sympathies!) and has high hope for this week.
Si dH - does similar, with a dash of DIY and weather. Still able to dish out the beta.
mbh - keeping up the mileage, finding that it is paying off.
biscuit - is one dog short of an Ark, it seems, en route to no Malaga sun but lots of offers in Manchester. Midweek Malham with ppg beckons.
AJM - had a better week, with 4 (an actual stat!) outdoor sessions, plus one inside.
Nick Russell - RPs a 7a+_ first go.
Eagle River - two tough indoor sessions plus yoga as precursor to raving.
IainRUK - some more than OK miles there. I like the short rus you do, in the "somewhere in...." series. If this week's was one of them, it was in Denmark.
Thickhead - matches Iain for pace, but loses 5s on world's steepest street.
mattrm - some good core work and fingerboarding.
mrchewy - At first reflects on his neatness and his weakness, then gets the blues.
Ally Smith - ddidn't I say that lurgies were banned this week? Good luck with the 5.13a
Luke Owens - Happy Birthday to Little Luke! A full week of training there, well done.
grubes - gets tweaky fingers, after a good session at steep AW, but crowded out at the Works.
needkraken - some varied training methods there. Next time you leave the house, remember - keys, money, harness! At leat you got to the walls at the weekend.
pork pie girl - thoughtful stuff re BB. Good luck with that. Whoever said you were fixated on Malham?
Tru - Hi, come on in. Going for Rubicon.
annak - hope the foot pain eases, jealous of your weekend.
maria85 - they sound like my kind of interval session. Mind the shoulder, and eep going on the plan. Good work!
Garrouli - as Luke says, sounds like you had a productive time at Kalymnos, including a 7b+ onsight and your first 7c on foreign shores. Good going! Is that everybody back from K now?
Mark Torrance - back again, still running along the tow path, but now with a dash of cross country. How is that going?
Nomics4sale - Does Langdale in 3:30! Fantastic effort! Now setting sights on Frankie,once again.
Sankey - work on WSS, provides sequence, ready for deployment.
stevemarkperry - sounds like a good week, now with swimming too.
Exile -feels the cold at the bridge, but pushes on towards Blow Out. You'll get there. Thanks for daring to ask what aerocapping means.
JinmyKay - is getting there too. Well done on the 5k.
Ali - Goes for domestic goddess status after great result at street orienteering (that sounds fun) One of those truffles could set you back weeks, be careful.
Pagan - pops up (again).
A varied week, full of ideas being exchanged, with some welcome newcomers and returners. Some of you have the blues, some have your tails up, some of you made cake and some of you ate cake. Most of you seem to go to Awesome Walls.
ps I have done this for a few weeks now. If anyone else wants a go, just say.
> AJM - had a better week, with 4 (an actual stat!) outdoor sessions, plus one inside.
> ps I have done this for a few weeks now. If anyone else wants a go, just say.
Cheers... If you fancy a break I could do 1-2 over the next month or so...
Monday - short fingerboard session. First time in ages. Didn't go all out, going to try and ease myself back in gradually, but managed 3x 10secs at +10kg in the rails on the beastmaker.
Tuesday - Huntsham. 6 redpoints on Low Blow (Fr7c+). Got through Ames Low (the Fb7A+ start) all 6 times, got to the throw for the pocket 5 times, hit the pocket 4 times, matched next to it about 3 times, but each time the heel pinged off as I tried to bring my feet up to go for the jugs 6 inches above. Utterly destroyed by the end of it. Seeing progress though, and some small sequence tweaks I found at the end might make a difference (I was failing to get far enough to test them on redpoint by then though!).
Wednesday - nothing (well, nothing climbing related anyway. Other stuff happened)
Thursday - shorts and tshirts at the Costa del Brean. Did some horrible warmup, one of the new crap routes that have been squeezed in there. Got back on Global Solutions, took me ages to rework the sequence, brain knew how to climb it but the body didnt sort of thing, had to relearn how to move on it. Basically a super shouldery boulder problem. One good redpoint where my foot popped but I still got well into the crux, then 2 poor ones. Shoulders trashed and still feeling Tuesday I think
Friday - rest
Saturday - TCA. Pretty decent session, took a while to get into it but managed to do a whole bunch of their black circuit in the end. Next time I should be able to do more of those and move onto the greens.
Sunday - not sure. Was out drinking last night and the forecast isn't too great, so I'm toying between joining some very optimistic friends at Huntsham, doing some fingerboarding etc or just resting up. Will update later.
No ticks this week but some good brutal training and its been good for the psyche after a "bitty" couple of weeks. Just need the forecast to improve really, very psyched to go back and finish Low Blow off, and it was fun to be back at Brean too, stuff it would be nice to finish off there as well.
Arrived safe and well, if a bit smelly, in sunny Manchester.
2 wall sessions. One using the patented steve and paul training method of quick warm up the doubles on routes that are too hard for you. Need to adjust it slightly to my level (down not up ) but it's a great work out. Lots of falling and failing.
2nd at kendal. God that wall is steep and long. Good session. Came close to a 7b flash on the big wall and got a couple of 7a flash/onsights. Not got the stamina for indoors yet.
A few good runs too. Not measured anything and not enough off road as I've forgotten to bring any shoes other than my trainers and soggy feet are not fun. Did 4 1 hr runs and a 1hr 30 today. Probably about 10/11 miles this morning.
Training mon and fri this week and hopefully wed too up in cumbria. Fingers crossed for outdoors on Sunday depending on kids visits etc.
Getting the money together for an awesome walls pass. Indoors is where it's at.
In reply to mbh: Thanks for doing this again, I would offer to do stats but I can hardly manage to fit everything in as is atm, hopefully in a few months I'll do my share
This week has been crazy busy again, my body decided it's had enough so my skin had a massive flare up and on antibiotics and steroids again so had to have a rest day today. Have managed an alright bouldering session on Wednesday and a freshers trip yesterday where I didn't lead anything but was feeling more myself on grit again =)
Not stating goals as I have 9 solid days of rehearsals and concerts so it'll be impressive if I manage to do anything else apart from work and music without totally breaking myself!
Thanks for doing the stats (with an actual statistic!) again mbh. I can probably take one in November as I don't currently have any plans.
M - am swimming (3.1km), pm yoga
T - Climbing at Cheddar again. Warmed up on Shakin' Like a Leaf (7a) ('retro-dog' putting the clips in for Alex). Then got on Still Waters Run Deep (7b). Bolt-to-bolt, one TR practice, then got it first RP!
W - Rest
T - am core, pm fingerboard (light session while cooking, but better than nothing)
F - Swimming (2.2km)
S - Rest
S - Climbing at UCR, focus on endurance. 17 routes in 6a-6b+ range, doubling-/tripling-up on some of the 6b's.
So my first 7b redpoint comes (in an afternoon too) only 9 days after my first 7a+... I'm starting to like sport climbing! Of course, since it's the first time I've really focussed on sport, it's not that surprising that I'm making some implausible gains. It will probably settle down soon but I think I've got a bit further to go yet...
For anybody interested in Bristol indoor walls, I've been to both the new Redpoint centre and Undercover Rock in the last week. While Redpoint is newer, shinier and cleaner, I still think UCR has the edge in variety of angles and features on the lead walls, and extent of the bouldering area. It will take me a bit longer to decide whether there's any difference in the quality of setting: I've climbed some pretty good routes at both of them...
Short term goals (end of October)
Sort out joining a masters swimming club. I've found a club that trains near me, just have to get in touch next week
Plan some kind of structured winter training. Get a few partners on board with that. Not written anything here, but decided that for at least the next few weeks I'm going to focus my indoor sessions on endurance.
Afternoon/weekend trips to Cheddar whenever the weather allows (make the most of still having my parents' car). This is going to plan.
Medium term goals (end of 2013)
Sport: 7a flash, 7b+ redpoint (I have a few in mind to try)
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some!
Incidental: get a car - it has been pretty useful these last few weeks!
> Nice one on Still Waters. Cracking headwall. Which 7b+s have you got your eye on then?
> To satisfy your curiosity, the answer is that on Wednesday I got engaged
Still Waters was great! I often seem to be more able to push myself for something good. As for 7b+, I was thinking of checking out Burmese Wall for Mercurial Sump Dweller. You mentioned that tends to stay dry, and there's Pirates and Mendipian Way there too, to consolidate lower 7s. Alternatively, for something different there's House Burning Down at Pride Evans (though the book says it can seep?). I still intend to go to the Remnant for It's a Kind of Magic, where I could have a look at Spy in the Sky (only 12m, bouldery?)
Basically, it depends on where I am when I'm feeling good. I'm probably going to take a step back for a couple of weeks, work the 7a/+, try for that flash/onsight (weather dependent, of course)
M - 10.3 m run, PB by several minutes for this route, and top of two Strava segments. That felt good. Then....
T - nothing
W - nothing
T - nothing. Got really painful cramps in my legs during the night.
F - nothing. First time for ages I have gone four days without doing anything. But the rain was very hard and I met my wife on our way hone for an assignation, which was very nice.
S - 10.0 miles run, Started in the dark. Did four miles at 7:50 ish then continued slowly and surprisingly achily, given four days of rest. Then, 1.4 km swim. This was supposed to be 1.8 km, but the cramps returned, in both legs, more painfully than I have ever experienced. The lifeguards all but fished me out of the pool and I had to lie down on the tiles and try not to scream too loudly. Cramps continued fitfully throughout the day.
S - 16.0 miles run. Seven of these in the middle at about 7:30 pace. Then, later, 4.3 miles run.
45.5 miles running,1.4 km swimming.
Only 5 runs and not as far as in recent weeks. I let work and weather get on top of me and need to find a way around that. My habit of getting up at 3am to prepare for work then standing up all day while talking the whole time means that by 5 pm I feel knackered. A run then in the dark and rain does not appeal, and it will appeal even less once the cold kicks in. It was fine in the light with coast path beckoning. What mental approach can I use to get past this?
More worryingly, these cramps came out of nowhere and were quite frightening in the pool. Also (Step away from the thread if anatomical detail and/or spelling errors appall) I have been having frequent diarrhoea while running in the last month, which has become very annoying and debilitating. It does not happen otherwise. Is that connected to the cramps, perhaps? Salt deficiency?
Goals for 2013:
Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (excluding snowballing!)(so far 8 E2s, 4 E3s - goal achieved)
Peak lime: 8-10 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 4 E2s, 2 E3s)
Total of 75 E-points so far this year, 83 if I include a couple of the higher graded high-balls I've done. Would like to get to 100.
Sport: Complete base of 7c+ pyramid (needed 3 x 7b, 3 x 7b+, 1 x 7c): so far - Obscene Toilet 7c, Brachiation Dance 7b+, Indecent Exposure 7b+, Tin Of 7b Sticky Wicket 7b and Ground Effect 7b. Just one 7b+ to go.
S: Got rained off and went to the Foundry. Did a couple of warm-ups, onsighted a nice 6c but then got shut down half way up a 7a+ and a 7a, and after that I never properly recovered - was going too quickly without rests and knackered myself too fast. Did some easier stuff to finish.
S: Curbar. Seconded Avalanche Wall HVS 5a (done before), led Elder Crack E2 5b, had a few goes at Finger Distance E3 6b but couldn't stick the crux, and fell off the very top of Insanity E2 5c. The crack was a bit greasy and I had to fight for every move - the lichen was still holding some moisture after the mornings rain. I actually fell with my hands on the top (a jug), couldn't believe it. Was just completely boxed. Pleased with Elder Crack though, wanted to do that for a long time.
Another nothing-week for me training wise, work and diy still taking all my time & energy. Disappointed with weekend weather and I'm not feeling 100%. Hopefully things will improve - just need some more sleep, then a good day out or a trip planned to get some psyche going!
Thanks. No long run for me this week, hopefully will manage one this next week on Wednesday. Parents flew in so hence less intense week.
Regarding your cramps etc may be worth getting some blood tests especially if your querying salt deficiency.
M: 6.5mile run up Mt Eden
T: 7.5mile run with 5K race started gently but wanted to finish ahead of first female so ended up hard second half. 17:42.
W: 4mile run 7:00pace
T: 4mile walk Mt Eden
F: 6mile run up Mt Eden 7:10pace
S: 6mile walk Mt Victora/Mt Eden
S: 7.5mile run up Mt Eden 7:10pace
Not really succeeding in the fitclub thing of actually climbing.
Still envoking the 18 hr rule, even today, and yesterday. This week coming i may have more success indoors.
Tried to climb Tuesday, turned up at the wall, had left my shoes at home. Stupid! Chatted for a bit then slept.
I now have my shoes in the van, so tuesday is hopefull.
Surfing next weekend, so no climbing. Its a stag do too! Think the waves will be big after all the weather the sea has had.
Goals, do something climbing/exercise related. On the plus side I do have the sicily book for my xmas/new year trip. Horizon looks good!
Not a bad week for training but I would've liked to have gotten out this weekend instead of being a wimp about the weather! Without the prospect of much climbing coming up in the near future it feels harder to motivate myself. I've got comps coming up quite a bit in the next few months but that's about it in terms of short/mid term goals.
Mon - MCC bouldering, new problems. For some reason a lot of the holds were really damp and greasy but I had a decent session, flashing a few of the V6-8 circuit.
Tue - rest
Wed - sudden onset of homework meant I had to postpone training, priorities eh?
Thurs - Rockover, new circuit board up. Had a new 55 move 8a+ which is perfect to work on. So far have done all the moves in four links, doubt it'll ever go in one but it's great training.
Fri - rest
Sat - busy
Sun - routing session at AW Sheffield to maintain fitness through my bouldering phase. This wall is so hard! Big overhangs/roofs have always been my weakness, so I just kept trying hard routes on the main wall but didn't make much progress - hardest onsight was a 7a. I think I need to work on my core, so I've got a more stable platform on really steep ground.
So probably a few unnecessary rest days in there but each session has been a hard workout so I guess quality wins over quantity. Just need to keep pushing it!
All miles running on flattish road, unless otherwise indicated. Square brackets are rolling 7 day total.
M: [57.3] 6.4 miles
T: [57.3] 6 miles am, 4.9 miles pm
W: [54.3] 4.9 road
T: [54.9] 12.3 road and tow path with 4 at 7:00 somewhere in there
F: [51.2] 5.3 road and path
S: [50.3] 10.5 off road including 40 mins hill reps
S: [50.3] Held out bottles at the Birmingham half. A unexpectedly intense and slightly disturbing experience. At 5k. No one will want to drink at 5k, I thought. I was very wrong.
In reply to mbh: finally back to normalish.. 90 miles sun > sat.. GF visited from the states for the weekend so steady weekend, but managed to get good miles in on top of the hiking.. main thing finally a week of no pain.. so hoping I can get consistency again.
m: 7 am: 7 miles road and trail 6:45 pace. pm: 10 k in the gym at 6:30 pace.
t: 7 am: 7 miles road and trail 6:45 pace. pm: 8 miles trail in awful weather.
w: 14.1 mile road run steady 8's.. lovely near full moon night,
t: 7 am: 7 miles road and trail 6:50 pace. pm: 7 mile gym treadmill, 1 x 5k effort around 17:20.. then 2 easy 3 hard x 2.
f: am: collect missus from airport.. pm: 10.5 miles 6:40 pace but first 2.5 steady with missus then all around 6:15-6:25.. so happy with that.
s: 8 am: 8 miles 6:50 min miling road and trail. pm: 8 mile hiking jasmund NP with the missus, great area.
s: am: 8 miles hiking Jasmund NP, surprising amount of ascent along the chalk cliffs. pm: 8.4 mile road run 6:45 pace, felt OK, stretching and sauna.
m: drop missus back at airport..
> grubes - gets tweaky fingers, after a good session at steep AW, but crowded out at the Works.
STG (End of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Adventerous climbing on the isle of man in october - Sort of but not really
MTG (April 2014):
Winter Grit - 7A boulder
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man
This week's goals:
Get out on rock - Tick
Climb E2 - Well sort of ..
do something adventurous - er .. not really
T: Depot (Leeds) 2 and abit hours on my own flashing and doing purples and woods. nice session saw people I have not seen in ages.
W: Rokt. Lack luster session ...
F: Fly to isle of man
S: The Chasms. Heavy clag on the walk in crag was below the clag level. Everything damp had a walk around.
Decided to have a go at an E4 on top rope. got all the moves but was wet. 2nd time up linked it all clean. top out stilll really wet. Went for cake.
Came back top roped an E3. 1 stupid fall after the crux probably a goer if it was dry. Then tried to flash a steep E2 with pre placed gear. Pumped out fast. Ended the day leading an E1 in the rain.
S: The Chasms again. Again a bit wet when we got there but drier than the day before so thought I would go for a head point on the E4. Set up a top rope and the heavens opened. I was drenched waited 40 mins then things started to dry out again. Did the E4 clean on top rope to warm up but top out was soaked. Did it again 30 mins later tring to place gear top out soaked still. Gave up as I was not sure if iot would dry out to be lead able.
Top roped a E3 that was a bit damp dogging 2 moves. Tried A 7b traverse in bits.
Went for cake.
Toproped another E3 clean should of gone for the lead really. knackered.
Next week Goals:
Wall a couple of times
An okay week a little ruined by the weather got there with so much psyche but the rock was too damp for a balls out lead at my limit.
Little bit gutted not to HP the E4 as this would be my first trad grade push since 2010 or 2011
In reply to mbh: sounds like long days MBH... can oyu squeeze in quick blasts at lunch time at the gym now and again? can you do sessions in teh gym after work? mix up the type of cardio by getting a exercise bike or turbo trainer or rower for at home?
the fox's advice will be very sensible re cramps etc and poo.. but could you be eating too much/too little fibre? are you managing to crap usually before runs? are you mostly running after work? was thinking if you sometimes run in the mornings oyu may just need a good strong coffee to get things moving pre run?
i went through a stage of crapping loads when i was out on runs.. but i got addicted to dried apricots .. it took me a couple of weeks to make the connection.. outdoor urban crapping feels very risky and uncomfortable.. not too bad in the hills
PS thanks for doing FC again... but will you do it again round about christmas time because your summaries are ace and make us all smile
In reply to mbh: Cheers. Been a quiet week, had some other stuff on. Out of action next weekend too, so hope for a few more wall trips after work and maybe even a cheeky midweek session if the weather can justify it.
W: Matrix: New problem set for me, couple of Font 6b+, flashed one of them
STG: More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession
sunday- turbo in gym and core, lancaster uni wall.. working problems v5-v6(but not for long enough)and some endurance
monday- PE at wallat lunhc time.. mainly traverses on featured wall until i peeled off.. 3-4 mins on, 2 mins off.. did for just over an hour.
pm bike intervals at gym and core
tuesday- pm gym.. bike intervals, weights, core, usual pull ups (light headed.. aunt mary visiting again)
wednesday- rest day
thursday- malham.. light headed (aunt mary)dizzy on start of consenting (warm up) BB on a left hand side soaked. about 8 laps on consenting, 2 laps on F and EE (fingers felt weak) sun dried BB out at bottom) worked up to traverse but felt pretty tired.. period more than the laps before hand i think
PM turbo in garage
friday- turbo in garage am. malham.. BB even worse. warm on on TR on 7th aardvark (not a good warm up) only managed TR on BB as it was soaked in places.. but worked the crux section quite a bit .. i love this route!!
saturday- gym. intervals on bike, core and weights.. usual pull ups
pm bacon butty and walk for a couple of hours by the river
sunday- a.m run up ingleborough/walk back down it drinking vimto cordial.. nice balance?
lunch time pre mum visit bouldering for endurance. PM post mum visit bouldering .. 4x4s and then climbing up and down on steep wall
learning this week...
-the left hand side of malham doens't promote strong fingers
-appreciate good conditions sooner by starting red pointing projects sooner before they get soaked
-i can do two days in a row on projects if my skin isn't too sore.. seem to be recovering quicker
-i'm getting more and more excited about sports climbing... it may not be a two season phase
- i thought i sometimes got dizzy at the start of climbs because of fear... it's actually because of periods. only taken a few years to work that out. fast learner eh?
this week... start mooching about upstairs at malham to find another project... looking forward.. even though my fingers don't feel very strong
STG: 7a or 7b in Spain in Nov
MTG: 7b or V6 indoors
LTG: more trad next summer
Mon: Kendal wall, routes. Nothing harder than 6c+.
Weds: 7.8km trail run, 200m ascent
Thurs: Kendal wall again. Tried a 7b twice, flashed an (easy) 7a.
Fri: 7.8m local trail run, 200m ascent.
Sat: Malham, top roped Free and Even Easier.
Sun: FRA relays in LLanberis. Leg 1.
Had a good day at the FRA relays yesterday. My club is a bit short of women hence me doing it and hence our poor show. Good to run in the presence of some serious athletes.
In reply to Nick Russell: Hi Nick. +1 for Sump Dweller, brillant route. Including the ones already mentioned, I also enjoyed Shock of the New at Freaky wall, Barbarian, Sing a Mean Toon Kid at Pride evans with some cool bouldery moves and Feathered Projectory. The latter isn't that great as a winter project though as the pocket seeps a lot. There's also Valley of the Blind which is graded 7c but if your over 6 foot, it's definitely easier.
Martin put Valley of the Blind in at 7b+ in the south west climbs selected guide. Seems to divide opinion that one. Not been on it myself in quite a while (krab snapping accident and too many other fish to fry) but its very different in style to a lot of cheddar.
'Thanks for daring to ask what aerocapping means' - not just me then!
And once more, thanks for doing fit club (yet) again.
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - maybe!
Autumn: HP Blow Out, (E6,) or start winter climbing - whichever opportunity allows first.
This winter - VI 7
M: pm - 45min general weights, 45min trail / road run
T: pm - 1.5hr PE / E traverses at wall - felt tired so more of a 'maintenance' session
W: pm - 45min trail / road run, 45min general weights
F: pm - 2hrs working black traverse at wall - fingery PE
S: 1.5hrs reps on one section of black traverse. Stopped when fingers shot.
Had a job interview on Monday which went well, but I think prep'ing for it took more out of me than I realised and once it was over I fell apart a bit. As a result although I kept the volume I eased off on the intensity this week.
Looking ahead I'll either keep plugging away at Bow Out or start winter climbing if conditions allow. If I don't get BO done by the end of this year I'll make it my spring project to get on once the winter finishes. (This was the plan last Spring, but winter didn't finish until the middle of April and I got hooked into some sports climbing which after a hard, for me, red point left me just wanting to tick some trad classics.)
Week was mostly summed up by one word - lurgy. I did do one wall session (pushed really hard but was generally knackered, 6a felt more like 6c...) and a half hearted run. Spent the rest of the time battling what I thought was on-coming tonsilitis. Seem to have managed to fight off the throat ickyness but now have a nasty cold, so won't be doing anything til midweek or so. Ah well.
In reply to Nick Russell: I managed to lank my way through both cruxes, missing out quite a few moves! My friend had to use some horrible crimps, which I struggled to even hold, to do the big span to the flake at the top!
Always on the look out for partners - would be keen to get out if this rain ever stops! I'll drop you an e-mail with my number. I normally concentrate on bouldering once it gets to cold for sport climbing though temps are still OK, just the endless precipitation!
You mention that you go into the pocket on the golden bicep part of low blow. Is that the one right of the big sloper? When I was trying it, I missed this pocket out and instead kept my right hand high on the flake, left on the sloper. I heel hooked with my left and had my right on the sloping foothold, sort of clamping myself on. I could then go to the jug nearly statically. The only thing was that I had to get my right foot on exactly right otherwise I couldn't clamp enough to then go for the jug.
Still keen to get on it but this weather is kind of frustrating!
No, I'm completely different to everyone else I could never get the usual slap (left hand on sloper, right on something) to work. So I'm taking an undercut (just right of the pocket) and left of the top of that flake hold) with my right hand, sloper with my left, heel on left, right in an obvious pocket and going again with my left hand into the pockety thing. I can then bring my right up to match next to it on something small, and when I'm fresh move my feet up a tiny bit and go up into the really big jugs a tiny bit higher. The problem is releasing the heel and moving my feet up when I'm beasted!
In reply to mbh:
Morning, room for another noob?
I'm approx 14 weeks out of shoulder surgery for a reccurrent dislocation, and i'm really keen to get back to my previous fitness level and beyond.
My best tick is 7c+ (it's all about sport for me) but that was over 2 years ago now and i've not climbed hard due to injury for nearly a year. The annoying thing was that before I got injured in November last year, I was climbing better than ever and just waiting for some decent weather to go out and crush some real rock!
I've never trained in any organised manner before so i'm hoping with a bit of planning and dedication I can surpass my current best, as with most people, i've been coveting the 8a tick for a long time so that is my current medium term objective, long term, I want to break into the 8b's.
So i have a super healthy diet in place, gym membership all paid up and a real desire to get good again, wish me luck!
STG: Start climbing again, indoor or out, increase difficulty by 1 half grade per week.
MTG: Tick an 8a (hopefully within 12 months)
LTG: 8b and beyond
Mon: Cardio, (in gym) bike 20 mins 8.6km
rower 15 mins 3km
Tues: Core, 3x20 crunches, 4x5 hanging knee raises, 4x5 L-hangs, 3 lying leg raise sets
Weds: Climb, indoor, 4,4+,5,5+,5+,5+,6a,6a,6a+,6a+,6a+
Boulder 15 mins
Thurs: Chest, bench 12x20(kg), 12x40, 10x50, 8x50, 8x50
Incline Flies 8x15(kg), 8x15, 8x15, 6x15
Tricep pull downs 8x10, 8x20, 8x20, 8x20
Shoulder, smith machine shoulder press, no weight, loosening tight shoulder muscles
Fri: Rest (if you can call DIY a rest)
Sat: Climb, indoor, 5,5+,6a,6a,6a+,6a+,6a,6a,6a+
I'm also doing a bunch of shoulder stretches and exercises every day as recommended by the physio, shoulder feels great when climbing, not so good when working antagonist muscles, ie shoulder press, but it is loosening up.
No fingerboard exercises yet as it seems a little premature, i'll give it a couple of months to acclimatise my fingers to the weekly abuse of climbing again first.
In reply to mbh: Thanks, the foot is much better this week, though I still can't quite shake the end of this cold.
M: cycle 14 miles; gym - squats and benchpress
Tu: cycle 22 miles; leading at the castle (2x5+, 2x6a, 2x6a+, then dogged 2x6b and dnf a third)
Th: cycle 14 miles
F: run 5km (despite recently declaring I wouldn't run again, lol)
Sa: gym - deadlifts and benchpress
Got some fun holidays coming up - a week's sport climbing in France, and then ice climbing at NY, so really want to hit the gym and climbing hard to get stronger for both. Feel like I ought to be doing more endurance stuff, but I can't train everything, and in the short term, ie my next couple of trips, I think sheer strength will pay off more.
Post-trip blues, the weather and the onset of viral Armageddon didn't help the motivation this week though managed three indoor sessions.....
M - Nothing
T - TCA - Worked the new circuits. Felt a bit sluggish
W - Nothing
T - Nothing
F - TCA - Got back on the circuits. Managed the 7b/+ wooden circuit in two halves. More like 7a+ though. Also worked the 7a+ circuit on the steeper board.
S - Nothing - Lurgy started
S - TCA - Wasn't feeling great but went indoors anyway. Sweating more than usual due to the viral apocalypse. Tried some of the new greens - managed one and the rest felt nails! Didn't help that they were mainly slopey nightmares and my hands were a shower of sweat! Tried the 7a+ circuit on the steeper board again. Did it in three sections.
No real structure to the training at the moment, going to take a bit easier than usual for the next month. Booked a trip to Greece in April to sample some of the new sectors in the Peloponnese, Athens and North of Thessoloniki so will predominately concentrate on bouldering during the winter months but will also do some stamina stuff in preparation for the trip. Project wise, Low Blow is top of the list but may try and get out and do some sport before the cold weather arrives.
In reply to mbh: 3 week summary from me, including 17days in the RRG (RAD River Gorge):
Pre-trip lurgy - viral sore throat/cold symptoms including extreme mucus production progressed to bright green phlegm from a chesty cough = GP appointment and antibiotics 24hrs before flying.
RRG didn't disappoint, with early visits to The Motherlode and Drive-By in 28C heat and 90% humidity. Not good for slopers! Thankfully it got colder half way through the trip and the crush-fest began.
Despite lurgy and thus needing to take more rest days than i might ordinarily (feeling light headed walking to the crag level of lethargy) but psyche won out most days!
- Dirty Smelly Hippies - 8a; 2nd go in the heat. Felt like i'd have had a good chance at flashing.
- The Force - 7c+. So close to OS-ing. Fell 2 moves from the chain at a "sting-in-the-tail" move. Didn't finish it off though - day fitness was lacking, and I only seemed to get one really good effort each day.
- Tuna Town and The Harvest - 7c's - OS up the middle of The Motherlode = BOSS! The Harvest in particular was a good OS, in-the-zone with very little conscious thought going into movement.
- Kaleidoscope - 8a+; brilliant line and movement. Watching Alex OS it later that afternoon (his 2nd 8a+ OS that day) was inspiring stuff.
- "I like Turtles!" (the catch-phrase of the trip)
8a+ x1 (5th tie in, 2nd RP)
8a x1 (2nd go)
7c+ x4 (x3 2nd go)
7c x3 (x2 OS, x1 2nd go - BIG fight on last morning before flying home)
7b+ x3 (x2 OS, x1 2nd go)
7b x2 (OS)
7a+ x6 (all OS or flash)
7a x3 (OS).
Training-wise I'm going to take some well earned rest for the next 2 weeks and take stock (November last year was last time i had more than 3 days off in a row). Sports massage already booked for Wednesday
Initial plans for rest of the year include a conditioning phase (hitting the gym to address some shoulder/elbow/wrist imbalances) and getting some core-strength back.
This winter I want to get some beastly finger strength, do a short/powerful 7C/+ blocs, 8A/+ longer problems, be able to use a campus-board without killing my fingers/elbows and emerge in the spring ready to take on 8c redpoints and 8a on-sights.
I find it hard to get my head round, and slightly fantastical just to think it, but based on previous form, each of these is only a step or two off my current level. Only one of the them seems delusional to me (feel free to guess?)
M - Rest
T - Indoors for 1.5h - good effort on a 6b(+?)
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Core
S - Fingerboarding
S - DIY (wallpapered a whole room)
When it says rest, what I'm meaning at the moment is 'DIY'. Tuesday night went well, got quite a way up a 6b at the wall, that my 7b+ redpointing mate reckoned was much harder than 6b. Dynamic Rock grades always seem harder than other local walls. Fell off reaching for what seemed like an ok hold, but wasn't, it was a very small slopey foothold. Good pocket on the left and then you're supposed to reach up again left to a small edge, not to go right for what looked like a good hold, but wasn't. Rattled up the first part of it tho, which made me happy.
Back down to 12st on the dot. Which is good. 11st next. Well with a few inbetween steps. Hadn't put the right weight up last week, had been on 12st 2lbs last week, so it wasn't 4lbs in a week. That would be daft. Have however worked out that on a day I'm 'being strict' with food, I'm only eating 1400 cals. So mid-afternoon choccy is in, even on a 'strict' day. I wasn't aiming to starve myself either. I was just planning on eating really well and hadn't realised that cutting out some of the crap I eat would loose me so many calories.
I've got a local 10k booked for mid December, so I ought to actually start running again...
mbh - I'll take it over again, if you're not keen. Slight caveat, I'm on a navigation training weekend all this coming weekend, so it might go up late on Saturday.
I realised yesterday once again quite how right I got it. Was loafing about and chatting to Ali and the subject of honeymoon came up - the first thing she said was "Maybe we could go to the states. You've always wanted to go to red river gorge haven't you? Or we could go to Yosemite maybe?"
> (In reply to Ally Smith)
> Nice trip!
> I realised yesterday once again quite how right I got it. Was loafing about and chatting to Ali and the subject of honeymoon came up - the first thing she said was "Maybe we could go to the states. You've always wanted to go to red river gorge haven't you? Or we could go to Yosemite maybe?"
Yeah - this forum definitely needs a "Like" button doesn't it?
> (In reply to Ally Smith)
> Nice trip!
> I realised yesterday once again quite how right I got it. Was loafing about and chatting to Ali and the subject of honeymoon came up - the first thing she said was "Maybe we could go to the states. You've always wanted to go to red river gorge haven't you? Or we could go to Yosemite maybe?"
In reply to Tru:
As long as it's not seeping I think Rubicon will stay dry to the top except for the very finishing jugs where you 'top out' but if these are wet you could still do it.
Bigger problem might be that after all the rain it could be seeping. I assume you know there's a decent conditions thread on ukb? No updates on Rubicon since 6th Oct but you could ask.
Let me know if you want any beta...I didn't do it all that long ago so can still remember most of it!
And belated welcome.
> Ali - Goes for domestic goddess status after great result at street orienteering (that sounds fun) One of those truffles could set you back weeks, be careful.
Well I may have had more than one... :-S
Bit more active this week anyway,
M - nothing
T - run into work, felt pretty good - just sneaked under the 50min mark for the first time
W - nothing (worked late)
T - Biscuit Factory - on my own but actually had a really good session. Working round the green circuit and tried pretty hard on a lot of things. Though I don't seem to get a huge number of problems done in sessions - stamina issues maybe
F - nothing
S - Westway, about 10 routes up to 6b - in fact a couple of the 6bs I didn't get up clean - yikes! Either Westway grading is tough or (moer likely) I am fat and weak. Definitely feeling lack of PE/stamina and a few extra pounds.
S - Orienteering - decided to enter the brown (rather than usual blue)course as felt I needed to run off some of last week's chocolate. Had a good, and for me really consistent run, but felt slow and sluggish all the way round.
Skimming through the thread, well done to some good sends! Oh and congrats again Andy
Incidentally I suspect I may lose my domestic goddess status this week as somehow volunteered myself to try and make a fire engine cake. I have never been more terrified - run out slabs has nothing on this...
STG: Current Focus: Climb every problem at the Very Far Skyline Boulders (The Roaches). Aim: To improve my head on high-ish grit slabs and crack-lines and to improve my slab and crack technique.
The Undercut (Churnet, 6C+/7A)
Old Sloper Problem (Churnet, 7A)
Bonus Goal: Alternative 3 SS (Churnet, pretty high roof finish, 6C)
MTG (early 2014):
Lead any WI route in Rjukan
Improve winter experience
Get out to the Alps
Dream of White Horses
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life
M: Rest T: 1hr session at Awesome Walls – woody, traverses, cave. Shoulder a bit niggly. W: Rest T: 1.5hr session at AW – woody, traverses, cave and easy circuit (V0–V2). F: Rest S: Nowt S: 4x12 situps // 4x12 pushups (niggle shoulder)
In reply to mbh: Decided to run out on fitclub for while.
My head is elsewhere, has no focus for climbing and life is stopping any sort of routine for cardio ambitions at the moment. Sorta feel like I'm not chipping in my penneth of psyche and as such I'd sooner go away and find some.
One last question - anyone climbed on slate out in Spain? Specifically down near Seville?
How do you do this? I'm at the back end of a PhD, and have lost my fitness, stopped doing exercise, drunk too much alcohol to de-stress, eaten too much and put on 9kg over the last year (I'm 178cm and 80kg), mostly on by belly. I use to be able to climb around about E3 fairly consistently. My last effort, 1 yr ago, and before the latest weight gain, was an appropriately named attempt at "the rut", which felt way too difficult and which I very nearly came off. Now I'm getting breathless running up the stairs.. ..though I have always made myself run up stairs, and avoiding lifts, as one very small nod to fitness.
Where do I start, and how so as not to give up over self imposed puritanism? I've got a 3.5yo kid, and am doing pick ups and drop offs making cycling to work not something I'm doing, which I used to. I used to run, and loved it, but get pretty sore knees on road. I'd like to get cardio fit and remove some weight, then later get back to more climbing specific stuff. How do you do this when working full time, often late, and looking after kids?
I've just started using one of those sleep cycle things which shows my sleep is pretty haywire, and so I'm trying to sort that out.. ..reduce drinking, earlier nights etc. Its nice to see something objective in front of you. Are there other fitness tools that people use online or on iPhone?
Decision to change is made, but I'd really appreciate some help advice on how/where to start and how not to do it so that you give up quickly.
Others will be able to give you better advice on how to balance it all with the little one than I, but in general having goals that will motivate you enough that you really want to put the work in, and working out where you can squeeze bits of training into your day (the old "fingerboard whilst dinner cooks" sort of idea) - if your focus is mainly cardio I am far less qualified to offer advice but could you nip out for a half hour a few evenings and do something short and high intensity, some intervals or something.
Oh, and eat well. If you eat lots of filling but not calorie dense stuff you should be able to drop a whole bunch of weight just off the back of that. It doesn't have to be dull or boring food!
Hi Jimbo no kids yet but I broke my collar bone in March this year and put on a stone during recovery. I was also studying part time for a degree whilst holding down a full time job so had issues with time.
What worked for me was goals, training partners, and consistency.
I set post recovery goals of cycling the Dun run (120 miles) running a 10k in under 50mins and climbing 7a. I've done the first two and I'm off to attempt the last one this weekend so I'll let you know how that goes.
Specific goals work a lot better rather than generic goals. So rather than just climb 7a I changed it to climb Rubicon in the peak and the cardio goals were for actual events I signed up to.
Training partners help a lot as you can take it in turns to be motivated and provide the needed kick up the arse as the weeks roll on.
That leads to consistency. Think of weight loss like running a race; if you charge out at the starting line at 100m sprint pace you are not going to keep it up for long. If you saunter round like a speed walker you'll get a crap time and not achieve much but if you head off at a steady pace and keep it up you will smash it.
Eat well, sleep well, (go to bed early rather than watch crap TV under the misguided notion that it's 'my time' after the kids have gone to bed,) get up early to train or train after the kids have gone to bed, set goals, (distances, times, grades a specific weight - whatever fires you up,) try to find somebody else to train with, set weekly training goals but be very flexable about when you get these done, (if it means doing all your training on two days back to back then five days off so be it.) Make it fun.
> My head is elsewhere, has no focus for climbing and life is stopping any sort of routine for cardio ambitions at the moment. Sorta feel like I'm not chipping in my penneth of psyche and as such I'd sooner go away and find some.
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to start modestly with the following plan:
- In bed by 11pm every night
- Apart from a friend's memorial this Sat, no booze for the next week
- Cut out the sugar in tea, cut out the crisps and chocolate I have been eating during the day
- Two 30min to 1hr sessions of cardio exercise over the next week
I don't know if any of that is reasonable, suggestions welcome. I'll look up what interval training is, and explore if there are any training partner possibilities.
Interval training is doing exercise in short very intense bursts. eg 5 minutes of flat out sprinting followed by 5 minutes of easy recovery pace, repeat a number of times. You can often fit a much more intense work out into a smaller time period doing it.
Dunno if it's been suggested, but could you get a fingerboard? I have a routine which I use as an alternative to going to the climbing wall, which is basically a core workout, some interval training and some fingerboarding. I do that once a week. It's just a tick over type thing, but the aim is not to loose the fitness I gained over the summer really.
When trying to change your diet go a stage at a time don't do it all at once. It's a long term change you're after. If you do everything at once it will feel like a punishment and you will soon fall back into old habits. That's what they are - habits. You need to engrain new habits to replace the old ones and that takes time. It will take time so don't be in a rush.
What AJM, Tru, biscuit and co say seems very sensible, especially the thing about trying to form new habits.
Some kind of external pressure helps. That can be nothing more than the fear of having to post a big blank and a load of excuses next week on Fit Club (no, really, that actually is the main motivating effect of Fit Club on me), or a real person. Or even, for me, a spreadsheet (ie measure and record what you do). The more I am aware of the impact on all my stats of NOT doing something, the more likely I am to do it. My real person has been my wife and we had a collective goal, in our case the Welsh 3000s, that I then supplemented with my own specific ones. Not that I managed all of them. I failed spectacularly on a BG attempt, but I've still got it there in my mind and (in my mind) am working towards it.
I found that doing things at whatever time of day was best for me helped too, however weird others may find that. For me, that is really early in the morning. But if I need to work then, I go out after work, from work. I guess too that now I have chosen to not let work rule my life quite as it did a year or two ago, which means that I am prepared to leave early and go for a run, if I want to, if I can. I can do more work later, after the run.
However, don't beat yourself up if you can't manage all this all the time. Sometimes, life just is too tough for almost anyone to keep up loads of exercise as well as meet all the other demands of work and family. I have now had two rubbish weeks in a row, but in the long term, if I just do something, I'll be able to pick up again, so I am not too down about it. In the long run, what I want is to keep up at least a modicum of exercise every week for the rest of my life. So, if I can't run 60 miles in a week for some reason, that may detract from a short term goal and mess up some of those beautiful curves on my spreadsheet, but the long term can still be OK, if I manage, say, 20 miles. In other words, look on the bright side, anything is better than nothing.
Hello all. I'm new to the fit club, so thought I'd introduce myself. Just hit the big 50 and am keen to try and improve whilst I'm still able to.
Main training aims are to supplement my outdoor climbing (get out at least twice a week at the moment, mostly sessions spent working on redpoint projects) with a couple of sessions on my finger board and small bouldering wall. Biggest barrier to improvement is being too fat - eating and drinking too much (especially partial to gin martinis). Want to reduce this and to do more running. Hoping that posting my activities on here will help make this happen.
A bit of a health issue and a partially knackered back also tends to get in the way time to time.
Thanks for listening (well, reading, unless you have a screen reader...).
Looking back on some of my entries from when Fit Club first started has been useful in comparing effort, attainment etc so I've decided to restart for a bit and see how things go.
STG: Devise a structured training session for finger board and have six such sessions before my trip to Spain at the beginning of August
MTG: For my (lack of) commitment to training and diet to not be such a source of mirth among my climbing buddies
LTG: To be the best climber in my village!
M: Second climbing day of holiday. At a crag where I've done the easiest routes. Tried a 7c but got totally shut down by the final move so stripped it as I was after a quick RP project. Tried another 7c, totally impossible, don't know anyone who's been on it, no ticks on 8a.nu or here, not sure it's been climbed, certainly not at 7c. Went for retro flash of 7b and fell in same place as last year.
W: Warmed up on a a 7a+ which was more like 6c then failed to on sight a 7b+, a 7b and event the consolation 7a
T: back to main objective of holiday, failed to reach RP high point of first day before sun came round
S: After a dodgy start on the warm ups I had a good day where I managed to on sight a 7a+ and retro flash a 7a and 7b I'd fallen off previously.
Overall I thought I was climbing well but lacked fitness for long days and consecutive days.
Diet: Pretty good as I was out with keen climbers who ate less than I normally do, they bought me a box of Magnums mid week as they recognised I was suffering withdrawal symptoms.
Weight: Given the above and a week of activity disappointed it wasn't lower; 69kg
Tan: Terrible, another problem with going with keen climbers is that we were constantly climbing in the shade to get 'best' conditions