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Topic - Power-Endurance training: 4x4 vs Feet-On Campus Boarding

cb_6 - on 26 Oct 2013
What are your experiences of PE training? My local wall has a pretty decent circuit board that I can perform a variation of 4x4 (was actually think 6-8x2, going round a problem twice without rest for 6-8 sets). I'd also read an article by Steve McClure about using a campus board but with the feet on an edge for PE training. As a sidenote: I don't like calling it 'feet-on campusing' since campusing by definition is climbing without feet, and using the board with feet is a totally different workout from using it without. Campusing is a strength/power training tool for far more advanced climbers than I, and I'm talking about training anaerobic endurance.

My feeling is that using the campus board with my feet anchored means I can overload the forearms without anything else being a limiting factor. Equally however, it stands to reason that a workout that actually has me climbing is of more use for improving my climbing, since I'd be forced to do moves and re-adjust my feet whilst pumped. What are your experiences of using either method? What would you think of doing both in the same workout, provided I didn't attempt too much volume?
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