UKC

I've been staying with my aunt and uncle for a bit and they have two kids, aged 10 and 12 (boy and girl respectively). I've been taking them climbing to the local bouldering wall and doing just fun stuff with them and they seem to really enjoy it. My uncle has a pretty sweet home gym and I have been using it a bit to try and get stronger.

I notice that when my cousins are bouldering they are really held back by lack of strength. With their tiny hands and light weight they should be able to float up problems.

I have started them on basic weights (we play at doing deadlifts, where I lift the thing and they 'help' me to get them used to the idea. Question is, what would an acceptable 1rm for a 10yo boy/12yo girl in a sample of exercises? Compared to their bodyweight. I.e. are they like ants and can lift twice their tiny weight or are they like me and can only lift 1.4 bodyweight?

I had in mind deadlifts, bench press, bent over front row and lat pull down, that kind of thing.

Charles

In reply to CharlesE:
Just in case this is a genuine question...

Gyms will not generally let kids under 14 start working weights, their bodies are not ready for it. http://news.menshealth.com/should-kids-lift-weights/2012/07/31/ discusses the issues. The gym I sometimes take work kids too will run cv and body weight sessions (press ups, squats, etc) for younger ones.

I'm not an expert on kids development but I run sessions for 8 - 18 year olds climbing. I tend to every careful about getting younger ones to do anything too repetitive. They will develop movement skills and all round strength just by climbing.

N

In reply to CharlesE:

Just take them climbing more, and ideally avoid bouldering as it tends to be harder on the joints. (In my opinion anyway, no science involved here!).

In reply to CharlesE:

pull ups is best for climbing in young kids IMO, plus press ups, rupees, core work etc.

easy climbing to combat pump.

no need or benefit from weights til they start building muscle at puberty.

In reply to CharlesE: Kids of that age are still growing so you should get an expert opinion on what, if anything is suitable for them. You can cause serious damage doing too much too young.

In reply to CharlesE:

I hope this is a joke...? In case it's not, it's not a good idea for kids of that age to do ANY weightlifting.

In reply to CharlesE:

Some guidelines for you to read:

http://www.strengthandconditioning.org/images/PositionStand/asca%20position...

http://juniorathletics.co.uk/Resources/Data/UKSCA%20Position%20Statement%20...

Both these guidelines, as well as the one by the National Strength and Conditioning Associated, which contains similar recommendations but isn't available unless you happen to have access to the Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research emphasise the importance of having youth strength training overseen by a suitably qualified professional.

In reply to CharlesE: For younger kids just get them climbing more and focusing on learning technique. Strength will come with time and be specific towards climbing. Weights are generally unhelpful for climbing apart from for those trying to gain a basal level of fitness to start from and sometimes professionals may use weights to target a specific muscle group for a particular project or move. Weight training at a per-pubescent age also can have high risk of injury with muscle development and bone structure development issues.

Just get them having fun and and most some basic own body weight exercise if they want.

In reply to Craig Holden: What about for alpinism?

Twight recommends bent over front rows, bench presses, lat pulldowns etc. as well as general muscle balancine exercises. Andy KP, in 'Hands' and 'Legs' has loads of good exercises that I thought they might enjoy.

I guess I will take them up a few Munroes first, see how they like that.

Charles

In reply to CharlesE: If you are a troll then you failed by replying to yourself. If not then maybe you should take the advice of Pink Floyd.

In reply to CharlesE:

I am a girl and started climbing at the age of 8, I trained 3 times a week with climbing coaches from the ages of 10 to 16 and got really strong just by climbing and doing exercises such pull ups, press ups and lots of core to work the abs but never did any weight training! It's really bad for kids that are still growing, it can do a lot of damage as Craig said and I know a few girls that started doing weight training too young and injured themselves really badly (messed up their bone development and can no longer climb)...
I got quite good doing this kind of training and even did some competing (at a national level) so I wouldn't worry about them getting strong; if they keep doing lots of climbing they will get strong really fast, no weight exercises required!

I hope that helps and I hope they keep enjoying it!

In reply to marsbar:

Have a cigar? Shine on you crazy diamond?

I agree, it was a tad trollesque. Weight training for climbing is largely a distraction, for kids it's downright irresponsible.

In reply to JayPee630:


no,just let them sit on their arses playing video games

i know what id rather my daughter doing and it aint sonic the hedgehog

In reply to mark s:

Haha, there are other options besides weightlifting and sonic the hedgehog Mark.

In reply to Jonny2vests: suppose,but im sure light activities better than what most kids do these days

In reply to CharlesE: I think weight training is beneficial to climbing in some ways.. also started weight training when I was about 16.
Basically I would not recommend weights for young kids.. Things like pull ups and,press ups are good and catsup for general fiTness, stretching and a bit,of core.

Definitely not weight training.. No need when so young..,and a good way to get injured or put off

In reply to pork pie girl: light weightlifting is no more strenuous than climbing .I'd never expect lifting to the limit as adult lifters do.
Any sport like cycling gymnastics and football has a good level of on the body.
I think getting kids active and into sport at a early age is how they become active sporty competitive people and that is a good thing.

In reply to CharlesE:

In the interest of balance. An alternative point of view from Bill Starr, a legendary lifter and coach.

http://startingstrength.com/index.php/site/article/youngsters_need_strength...

http://startingstrength.com/index.php/site/article/youngsters_need_strength...

In reply to Gman:

Also respected Tudor Bompa (Periodisation guru) wrote "Total training for young champions" which includes work with weights.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Total-Training-Young-Champions-Tudor/dp/073600212X

In reply to mark s: can't really see where my post isn't promoting sports for kids? just think very young kids don't need to lift weights to become better at climbing