UKC

To all those who constantly have to overide the autolock on a gri gri, buy another belay. If you can't use one without your hand planted holding the cam open then don't bother. Buy something else, your climber who you are still struggling to feed slack out to will thank you for it. Thanks.

In reply to FreshSlate:

Nice troll.

Yes I override the cam. And?

The whole time?

In reply to FreshSlate:

Yawn.....

In reply to FreshSlate:

Afraid to express your concerns to your belayer directly?

In reply to FreshSlate: I agree, there's no reason why you should have to override the cam at all in doors, the only exception being if the place is so busy that you cant move

In reply to ilovetoclimb: I would add that its not actually that dangerous as I cant think of anyone who's thumb is strong enough to actually hold down the cam in a fall

In reply to AlanLittle:

Lol . Of course I'm not talking about my belay just a few I have noticed recently. I had given a gri gri to someone with us for the first time.
In 5 minutes, they were belaying smoothly without locking up the gri gri and were well aware that one could overide the mechanism demoing it a couple of t
ime in textbook fashion. A guy next door held the cam open with one hand and the other was above the devise pulling out rope. He kept short roping his leader, just looked pretty bad, he should just get a normal belay and have done with it if he's struggling!

Can someone keep the gri gri from locking up with their thumb? Not sure havent tried it, this guy had his whole hand on it though, nothing on the dead rope.

In reply to FreshSlate:

Yes, the proper "Gaswerk" thumb method works very well and is particularly useful/necessary for old, stiff, fuzzy ropes. I use it a lot indoors with my crappy wall rope and rarely outdoors with my good rope.

(I sometime catch myself these days with my thumb on my ATC when I'm giving out rope, even though I've only been using a Grigri for a couple of years. It's hard to maintain two separate sets of reflexes)

In reply to FreshSlate: Look at the Petzl video. If someone can be bothered they can put a link up.

In reply to AlanLittle: I had a big fat fuzzy rope like that and it was so much bother lead belaying with a gri gri I used my slickest belay plate instead, much better.

In reply to FreshSlate:
I bought a Gri-Gri a few years ago and soon realised I'd wasted my money. Over-engineered, overweight, overpriced piece of crap.

In reply to Andy Long:

For us hang-dogging redpointing routes well out of our league sport climbing fairies they're a god send.

In reply to FreshSlate:

This thread and others like it have made UKC Forums go downhill.

Can't you help instead of starting arguments. I just see you as a selfish person, who doesn't want his day ruined by some one doing something with a piece of metal.

why would you find the need to moan about something so trivial?

In reply to r0x0r.wolfo)

Ahh, you have been on this website a whole year and now you're getting bored, thus ukc is decline and its due to you seeing similar threads. This has nothing to do with a change in ukc but the fact you have now been around long enough to see a few manifestations of the same topic.

How about you post a flurry of new inciteful threads that are full of imagination and wonder. All you doing is bumping and adding to a post that you find distasteful. You are, moaning-about-someone-elses-moaning-and-lamenting-this-thread-for-making-the-forums-a-worse-place-since-good-old-2012. You are a walking cliche, aggrieved that a certain thread didn't meet your expectations, and whinging about it in said thread.

Can't forget this beauty:

>
>

Why don't you go start that new forum, and then you can moderate threads discussing belay practices out of it. Sorry this forum isn't entertaining you enough.

In reply to FreshSlate:

I'm not 100% sure what you're on about, but Petzl give the nod to holding the cam open for quickly paying out rope-

At 02:40
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x50vsu_grigri-belaying-the-leader_sport

Your hand never comes off the dead end.

In reply to FreshSlate:

You sound like David Cameron.

He's a frigging nightmare as well.

In reply to Dave 88:

I'm advocating exactly that, good video. I'm talking about holding the cam open 90-100% of time, hand off dead rope.

In reply to xplorer:

The reply you deleted was better.

In reply to FreshSlate:

Jesus, you are David Cameron, you're obviously spying on me!

In reply to FreshSlate:

Alrite agreed, I'd not be too happy being belayed like that. More to do with the dead hand off the rope. As for holding the cam open, 90% is too much, not sure why anyone would need to do that, however, even with the cam fully open you can hold someone just with the rope (in the same way a tube device works) and I don't think even Stevie Haston could keep the cam held down with his thumb in the event of a fall. I agree though, it is bad practice to do it all the time.

I think your OP was a bit unclear, hence peoples backs are up a bit.

In reply to Dave 88: Agreed. 85% is totally acceptable.

In reply to FreshSlate:

Perhaps we could start a new thread 'The Best of Xplorer'.

"I'm now single minded like you!!!" is one of my favourites.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Yeah yeah you get what I meant. Anything over 83% is death on a stick.

In reply to avictimoftheDrpsycho:

Perhaps we could. Another none climbing related thread is all UKC needs. Its like a therapy waiting room at the minute.

Your favourite quote actually contains a spelling mistake. I'll let you decide where it was.

And instead of asking other people to create the thread, why don't you just do it your self. go ooooooon, push your boundaries, live on the edge....... the edge of Windsor

In reply to xplorer:


Presumably you mean the 'now' as opposed to 'not'. 'Now' is what you wrote, which is what makes it amusing.

On this thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=563770&v=1#x7501814

In reply to avictimoftheDrpsycho:

"laughing about spelling mistakes, get a life"

Well that's what Alan Partridge would say. Not me though!

In reply to avictimoftheDrpsycho:

he may even say:

"You're laughing at the grammar lynn"

obviously substitute your name for lynns.

In reply to Dave 88:

I did use the word 'constantly' both in the thread title and the op, also I said hand 'planted' on the device. Though it seems like the consensus is that I should have specified 82.5% of the time .

In reply to xplorer:

Yes. It's not the fact that it's a spelling mistake that causes amusement, more the change in meaning it creates.

In reply to xplorer:

Your punctuation is rather poor too.