/ Lightning Wall, Boulder Ruckle. Possible alternative finish

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Pete - on 05 Nov 2013
Did Lightning Wall twice yesterday. Not a thing I usually do and not trying to add to the million or so times that I have done this climb since first starting to climb on the Ruckle in 1969. On this occasion, having chosen to do the Marmolata abseil (very traditional!) and being stopped by high seas from straying from that area I decided it would be a good warm-up climb. However, my inexperienced second,very understandably as it was her first climb on this sometimes scary cliff, left a fair bit of my gear on the fault line belay and on the pitch. Now, before you all go rushing down there to retrieve the booty I must tell you that I got it all back courtesy of a kind gent in the shape of Andy Blakely (as it turns out a renewed acquaintance from 30 years ago) who appeared and agreed to do the route with me again.

Andy led the top pitch, enabling me to retrieve my gear, and, not knowing it quite as well as me, he strayed to a line left of the proper finish. I have to say that this is a somewhat better finish. Nicer and more varied climbing, slightly more difficult up a striking corner crack line. It doesn't appear to be in any past guidebooks. The Dorset Rockfax photos indicate it very clearly, but no route is marked and I can't find it in any other guides. So, to cut a long story short, anybody done it and claimed it as theirs before we register it as a new alternative finish? I have done all the other climbs in that immediate vicinity before and I don't remember ever having done it before, but then old age is addling my memory!
steveej - on 05 Nov 2013
In reply to Pete: Pete, your still alive! I'll be at UCR Thursdya if you fancy it. 07737756754, I lost everyones mobile when my phone got reset.
Pete - on 05 Nov 2013
In reply to steveej: Hey you big Welsh Lummock. How the hell are you? You don't still frequent that wall do you? On the rare occasions that I visit walls, now that I have a bank of weekday climbers wanting to get out and brave the elements on the real thing, I tend to go to Reading. But, I might be willing to make an exception for you. What time r u there? Got a note of your number now.
steveej - on 05 Nov 2013
In reply to Pete:

I can do anytime after 6:45. Got loads of news for you as I have had a very busy year.
Pete - on 05 Nov 2013
In reply to steveej: Ok will get there 7.00 - 7.30. Be good to catch up. Take it you have time afterwards for a pint or three in the Miners?
Pete - on 05 Nov 2013
In reply to Pete: Ah, all is revealed! A peek at a draft of the new guide reveals that it is the finishing groove of Melancholy a new E3 variant on Lightning Wall. One to have a go at!
steveej - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to Pete: see you tonight.
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Nigel Coe - on 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Pete: Melancholy Lane (E3 5c,5c) was in my Climbers' Club guidebook. It was put up by Crispin Waddy in 1987, so I guess his comment 'In situ dead seagull at the faultline' is no longer true.

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