/ NEWS: James McHaffie Climbs New Gogarth E8
James McHaffie, or Caff as he is better known, has just made the first ascent of an old project on The Red Wall Promontory, at Gogarth in North Wales. James named the route Satan's Scream and graded it E8 6c.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68506
Rock looks quite different from Red Walls. I can't place this - is it down below the area you abseil into for the two RWs?
This shows you exactly where it is.
Just interested (not criticising anyone), are the photos of Caff "on the first ascent" posed afterwards, or do people really do badly protected E8 first ascents while being distracted by cameramen?
According to the other post the photo is of Caff on the first ascent, which is good to see. I'm not sure I would see it as being put off by a camera man I would see it as if all goes tits up there is a ready made top rope to clip into? That is certainly not intended as a derogatory comment in any way shape or form on Caffs ascent. I personal would feel slightly more relaxed on a big lead knowing my mate was hanging next to me and able to come and get me. Which is certainly more likely for me than Caff and at a far lower grade!
There was a time when having a rescue top-rope system to hand was a controversial practice (Staffs grit, late 70's, anyone). Not that I imagine a cameraman on an ab rope could do a lot for you on this route.
It's an interesting question whether people do these things with the camera there or stage the photo later. If it was me I'd definitely do the latter, but I guess the pros are probably cooler about being filmed than we punters.
I think on that kind of route, it's not the kind of place where you can hang around long enough to get rescued.
I'd say that bearing in mind caff can climb 9a, he's well within his limits when he's doing an 8a sport route.
If it were me, it'd stress me out personally.
It's the lack of a helmet I find interesting. I don't find helmets distracting to climb with, and if I ever found myself on an E8 I'd certainly want the protection.
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