UKC

El Mancho

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 Diggler 18 Nov 2013
I'm probably just getting delusions of grandeur but.....
A question to those of you out there who have done the route.
What's the gear like??
 Ian Parnell 18 Nov 2013
In reply to Diggler: bold on first turfy pitch (note need proper frozen conditions) excellent on harder snowed up rock top pitch
 mr mills 18 Nov 2013
In reply to Diggler:

Pitch 2 - one bomber rock 7 low down then run out to the belay.

Pitch 3 - good gear just where you want it, super safe..
 mux 19 Nov 2013
In reply to Diggler: Last time I did the top pitch there was that much snow on it I had to run it out from the crawl space to the top ..so pick your day carefully.

Great route though ...get it done
 Cardi 19 Nov 2013
In reply to Diggler: Remember the middle pitch being one of my first Grade V mixed leads. Felt mega exposed, although not super bold. Some good kit, a bulldog or two is definately good for reassurance. Top pitch is more technical (I seconded it) but much better rock gear.

But it must be frozen before the snow falls!
OP Diggler 19 Nov 2013
In reply to Diggler:
Thanks guys ...... If we set a good freeze then I will probably give it a bash.
 philhilo 20 Nov 2013
In reply to Diggler: Led the second pitch last year, seemed very straight forward - big hooks all the way across on the traverse, not likely to fall off to be honest. Nuts every so often. 3rd pitch gear where you need it but remember it being run out up the top slab (was there a wire in the crack - it was dark and snowing so can't remember?)
 mr mills 20 Nov 2013
In reply to Diggler:

Of course you will get different answers depending on the condition of the route when one climbed it !
 Misha 20 Nov 2013
In reply to philhilo:
Yes I recall the finish being bold and sketchy for a few metres but it was less steep than the meat of the last pitch so there was time figure it out. There was gear in the crack above the niche but not on that finishing slabbier section. Snow and darkness didn't help...

I thought that the second pitch was a bit tricky and I was only seconding! I remember you saying it was fine and me thinking that it wasn't that easy, go figure!

On the whole, a reasonably safe route for the grade.
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