UKC

When moving together over technical ground, the second has taken in coils and tied them off as normal. Instead of the rope going to the leader from the chest coils, it is first threaded through the belay plate/krab attached to the belay loop on the harness.

Minor advantages are that if the leader finds the going difficult it is much quicker to start belaying them. Also, the pull of a falling leader would be appiled to the belay loop and not the chest coils providing better balance for the second.

Any significant disadvantages to this system that folks can think of?

In reply to thedatastream:

I was taught something similar but in relation to glacier crossing. Instead of having the rope coming directly off chest coils towards the leader, it first gets clove hitched onto the carabiner on your harness. The rationale being that it's easier to arrest the leader falling into a crevasse because the pull will have a lower centre of gravity (your waist rather than your chest). I'd imagine it makes quite a big difference if there is a noticeable weight difference between you and your partner.

I think I just left the clove hitch in place when moving together over more technical ground, this sounds fairly similar to what you suggest, just the clove hitch has been exchanged for a belay plate?

In reply to thedatastream: Glacier travel I was taught through a biner on the belay loop and through a Prussic on this biner. Advantages are if it all goes wrong you've got the first part of the system made and just need to transfer weight

In reply to thedatastream: certainly used a similar method with clove hitch/prusik for glacial travel - lowers the point of attachment to make you more stable, and in the case of a fall, means it is easier to undo the coils and build a belay since the coil knot is unloaded.

Don't see any major safety issues with your method. A few points to think about.

Are you over-complicating a system that already works? If you're going to switch from moving together to pitching, the second will need to drop coils (to allow slack for the leader to climb) and possibly to use to build a belay with - does having the belay plate already attached really save time here, or is it just something else to fiddle with?

In the case of a fall moving together (awful situation I know), assuming the system works and you're still on the route - does having to remove a loaded belay plate from the system help or hinder more?

I definitely see having slack between the attachment point and the coil knot being useful in this scenario, in the same way it is for crevasse rescue.

I would add that a well tied chest coil should be fine for upward and downward pulls - potentially better than a waist harness - and that I only redirect through my harness when horizontal pulls are anticipated.

J

In reply to thedatastream: Not really idea if the second is wearing a heavy bag as this could mean them inverting.

Cheers for the feedback, some good points raised.