UKC

Apologies if this is in the wrong forum (which is the right one?)

I hurt my index finger about two months ago, and although it's not a bad injury in terms of stopping me climbing, it hasn't got any better and it's pretty annoying.

I was finger-locking thumb down and did something to the 2nd (midfinger) knuckle of my index finger. It wasn't that bad at the time, but I think I made it worse doing a similar move a couple of days later.

The knuckle is slightly swollen, not visibly so but feels it to the touch, and hurts if I press into it or if I try to maximally extend or contract the finger. It doesn't hurt when I'm pulling on holds, but twisting movements and knocks can be pretty painful.

At first I thought it was collateral ligaments, as it hurt along the sides of the knuckle, and it may be that, but it also hurts if I press just below the knuckle (ie closer to my hand) on the top and bottom sides as well. I don't think it's a pulley, because as I say it doesn't hurt pulling on holds.

Has anyone had anything similar, or have any ideas?

Thanks for listening

In reply to Andy Moles: I think I have exactly the same thing - no pain when climbing/crimping, but pressing on the side of the finger below the joint is incredibly painful.

Did mine about 2 months ago, and after a couple of days off and some sessions buddy taping to protect the side, it's been fine to climb on. It does seem to be taking a while to heal up though so I would be interested if anyone can shed any more light on it.

In reply to Andy Moles:

Yes had similar thanks to a damn fingerboard. Sounds Like a pulley Injury.

Advice i got for mine. Stay off it completely, that Means no climbing full stop, Until completely Healed.

Then Climb well Below your grade for a While. Buddy taping and taping up wont help a pulley Injury.

Thats the advice i got, worked well. But see Professional if you can.

In reply to Choss:

No I'm pretty sure it isn't a pulley, because like I say it doesn't hurt when pulling on holds. I've had a pulley injury before.

Worth mentioning though that I found buddy taping actually made it hurt more while climbing, for some reason.

In reply to Andy Moles:

I have the exact same symptoms in my middle finger, 2nd knuckle. I hurt August time, climbed, rested till it felt better, climbed outdoors (fine), now climbing again inside and agony! It is stiff as a board first thing in the morning; my finger that is !!

In reply to Andy Moles:

I get exactly the same thing from time to time, usually a middle finger. Very painful but generally worse in normal use than when climbing. Buddy taping is the answer for me. In 3-7 days it's as good as new. Therefore definitley not pulleys so I assume it's collaterals. The finger needs to be completely imobile for that time, so no climbing at all.

ST

In reply to Andy Moles:

Sounds similar to my issue (that has not got better in 3 years and now severly restricts the amount of climbing I can do)

Started off just like you describe, swollen knuckle, but no pain when climbing on it, but painful after climbing and restricted movement (particularly to contract my finger).

I tape it to climb now, and the twisting motion of taking the tape off is excrutiating at times.

I've had x-rays which didn't show up any damage. now considering going private, but from what doc has said it may well be early on-set arthritis in my case

In reply to Andy Moles:

Im no Expert on these Injuries, but do Know you have to stop Climbing on them full stop Until fully Healed. Do that they Heal on their own over Time. Dont do that itll go bad on you. You may end with very Long term Injury Possibly permanent.

Take it or Leave it.

In reply to Choss:

Thanks, but the problem with this is that I seem to be irritating it more using kitchen appliances and picking things up than I am climbing.

In reply to Andy Moles:

Have the same thing in my LH middle finger PIP joint and RH middle finger DIP joint.

Causes discomfort if knocked, pressed or sometimes pulled sideways, but doesn't really affect my climbing much. Bit stiff if fully crunched in the mornings, usually warms up over the day.

Went to see a finger specialist and was referred for an ultrasound. No pulley or ligament injuries. Referred on to a hand therapist who thought it was arthritis.

Suggested that I would have got it anyway so carry on climbing...
Dietary advice was avoid 'nightshades' as can be inflammatory, warm up joints before climbing (bathe in hot water if possible), cool down inflammation after climbing with ice or cold water baths.

I had a similar thing in my LH ring finger which caused my gyp for about 18 months then just faded away. I am assuming the same thing will happen with these fingers.

Would be interesting to refer this thread to a hand specialist...

In reply to balmybaldwin & RockSteady:

Interesting that neither of you who have seen someone about it have had a very definitive answer.

I'd like to hope it's not arthritis at my age - I'm pretty sure I did do something mechanical while climbing.

In reply to Andy Moles:

I got something similar a few months ago. My whole weight went on my little finger as I couldn't get it out quick enough. I've had xrays and no damage evident, other than it looks like it's displaced (but isn't). All I can think of is that rather than being torn the ligaments have stretched, but I'm at the point I'm going to go private to see if I can get it sorted. Saying that I appear to have excessive movement laterally in the joint and plenty of clicking, but those movements aren't sore.

In reply to Grey area:

Oh yeah, that's another thing with mine. More than willing to be clicked.