/ lead 999 and got shakin stevens leg just before the crux

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cheek to the rock - on 23 Nov 2013
I started feeling fear creeping in soon as i went past the first runner,Leading is a whole new ball game compered to just seconding,by the time i got to the last runner before the crux,My leg was shaking like a sixty's rocker.I dont think it was just becasue i was perched on one small foot hold,i could feel the panic rising and had to tell myself to get a grip, (couldn't clip the rope) Pulled it back and topped out.What a buzz and a feeling of releif.I used 5 runners,is that alot?.They say grit is better in cold weather,but i think i would fly that route in summer.Felt dodgy today.
csw on 23 Nov 2013
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Good effort - I'm not sure what grade it gets these days, but definitely fun to climb. As for the gear - you're not carrying it to decorate your harness :)

40' corner in Wilton 3 is worth a look, if you haven't already. I found the start tricky, but the holds and gear are good enough in the corner proper.

Well done again :)
Mick Ward - on 23 Nov 2013
In reply to cheek to the rock:

> I used 5 runners,is that alot?

Haven't done 999 but would doubt it. Back in the (very long ago) day did Wombat with 4 runners and Cenotaph with (I think) five. Smart? No. Totally fu*king dumb!

If in doubt, don't run it out! Instead, fill it with gear. (The pump, while faffing around, is great training.)


> They say grit is better in cold weather... Felt dodgy today.

Better friction, which can make a big difference on hard stuff on natural grit - but only if you're incredibly careful about getting/keeping warm. If you're cold, it's game half-way over.

But never mind all that. You topped out. Good effort!

mick

cheek to the rock - on 23 Nov 2013
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Cheers lads,cant wait for summer.I can see me camping there weekends,The wife's going to be a climbing widow,untill ive scratch the itch lol. By the end of next summer i will be leading christina,dawn and ann.
wilkie14c - on 24 Nov 2013
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Well done fella, 999 is a fine route. I imagine it was a bit green, dirty, damp and cold so well done. I do laps on it sometimes after work and it is a route that has constant interest and a varity of styles with a sort of layback crux right at the very top. Gear sounds about right, if creative and scared you can can get double that amount of gear in if you want, it does swallow gear beaing a sort of corner / groove. HS is probably about right, some tough moves for just severe but a little too safe for VS so I reckon benchmark HS <as grit goes anyway>
Try Mohammend the mad monk at Denham when summer comes if you want to try VS, also metamorphisis at Anglezake at VS.

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