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Climbing guide The Gunks

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Hi, could anyone tell me the best climbing guide to buy for The Gunks or Shawgunks mountains in New York please. Any other useful information would be helpful. Cheers.

Russ.
 wivanov 01 Dec 2013
In reply to RusseyB:
Anything by Dick Williams.

Guide to the Trapps: http://www.rockandsnow.com/store/product/2987/The-Climber%27s-Guide-to-the-...

Guide to the Near Trapps: http://www.rockandsnow.com/store/product/35680/The-Climber%27s-Guide-to-the...

Not too impressed with "The Gunks Guide" by Todd Swain and I really haven't seen the "The Gunks" by Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn
Post edited at 00:03
 wivanov 01 Dec 2013
In reply to RusseyB:

Some overviews in case you don't know about these.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-gunks/105798167

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/New_York/Ups...

I live about 150 km from the Gunks and climb there fairly often nice weather. There are some people who post on this site and live much closer so climb there more regularly than I do. They might be able to answer questions better than me. When are you planning on going?
 FreshSlate 02 Dec 2013
In reply to RusseyB:

Can't go wrong with Dick. Best guides.
 rgold 02 Dec 2013
In reply to RusseyB:
The Williams guides linked by Wivanov are the way to go. Swain, if available, covers more in a smaller space but is not as good as the Williams books. Still, Swain would be good enough for a relatively short visit. Do not under any circumstances waste your money on the Orenczak book.

There's quite a bit of information on Mountain Project. But without good cliff photos as found in the guides, it is pretty hard for a visitor to make much sense of it all.

I'm a longtime Gunks local and would be happy to help with "other useful information" but have no idea what that might encompass.
Post edited at 06:36
In reply to RusseyB:

Thanks very much everyone. Williams it is...
I will be over for the last week of Dec and the 1st week of Jan. RGOLD and WIVANOV, have either of you climbed routes this time of year? Is it possible or too cold/wet/icy?
If possible I'm hoping to get a few days in. The other option is Ragged Mountain or one of the CT crags but I heard it's far better at the Gunks.
 wivanov 02 Dec 2013
In reply to RusseyB:

> I will be over for the last week of Dec and the 1st week of Jan. RGOLD and WIVANOV, have either of you climbed routes this time of year? Is it possible or too cold/wet/icy?

I haven't climbed in the Gunks at that time of year - although some people do. Maybe rgold has (he's more hard-core than I am). I think avg temps for that time are -5C to +5C. You might luck out and get some nice days. Hope so.

There's a youtube of someone who climbed "High Exposure" at the Trapps in Feb 2010 during/after a Nor' Easter. youtube.com/watch?v=tVsemP8IfaQ&

For me, it's too long a drive when the weather is "iffy". On the occasional warm(er) sunny days that time of year, I'll hit one of the south facing crags in CT. For example, last Jan 1 I was at Whitestone Cliff in Plymouth CT.
 rgold 03 Dec 2013
In reply to RusseyB:

I've climbed during every month over the years, and in almost all conditions. But now I'm old and fussy and demand premium rock-climbing conditions, which happen quite a bit in the winter but can't be predicted.

The deal is that the main cliffs face SE and so get direct sun from the early morning until about 2 pm. By 9 am or so, the rock has warmed up and then a layer of air next to it, so the cliff face can be considerably warmer than the rest of the area---this means you can't judge the day from anywhere but the cliffs themselves. All the nice heat goes away fast once the sun passes over the ridge and the cliffs go into the shade.

So, the climbing is good on any bright sunny day from, say, 9-2. Such days can be as good as you can get, with the air crisp and the crowds away. But as I said, I've become picky in my dotage and so can't be pried away from the hearth unless, in addition to the bright sun, the temps are also above 40 (F). Some years there are lots of days like this; other years there are hardly any. In any case there is very lovely hiking.

Ragged and some of the other Connecticut crags are nice but are no match for the extent, variety, and height of the Gunks. I'd say the Gunks would be the best bet in the winter by far.

I'm a professor and won't be teaching during the Dec/Jan time period you mentioned, so I'd meet you for a bit of climbing if you'd like---if the conditions are right for me...
In reply to RusseyB:

Thanks again both of you. Really helpful tips.
Rgold my email is russellblackaller444@gmail.com if the planets align for you and the conditions are primo then I'd be happy to meet up for a morning session. Any personal favourite routes you think shouldn't be missed? I guess im pretty comfortable at 5.9 but never climbed in the US so wouldn't like to say I'm solid.

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