UKC

I got thinking last night, it would be good to have some suggestions of the most reliable gullies to still be complete after a big thaw. Probably in the lower grades, either easily accessible or as remote as you like.

I'll start.

Numbers 2, 3, 4 and 5, Ben Nevis

Central Gully Ben Lui

Great Gully Braeriach

Any more suggestions?

Thanks

In reply to Shaunmash:

Anything on Braeriach

In reply to Shaunmash:

Black spout gully lochnagar, still climbable in June this year, scratch that, always climbable.

In reply to Shaunmash:

Broad Gully, Stob Coire nan Lochan
The NE face of Bidean nam Bian (not a gully, but very reliable and a pleasant route open to much variation at I or II).

In reply to Shaunmash:

I've always found Alladins Couloir to be quite reliable.

In reply to Shaunmash:

I guess your assuming buildup to have occurred prior to the said thaw? as right now I dobt there are any climable gullies worthwhile in Scotland...

In reply to Webster:


Given that some of the OP's suggestions above are grade I's, then there definitely will be, as Dave Kerr says above, Braeriach.

In reply to Webster:

There was a really quite large amount of snow in the East facing corries on Braeriach and Ben Macdui even before all the new snow that has fallen in the last 24 hours.

In reply to Webster:

I said Braeriach because I know for a fact there were climbable gullies there last weekend.

In reply to Shaunmash:

It's worth pointing out that a sudden upward change in temperature is an avalanche warning and tends to make the snow pack less stable.

This maybe important and it may not be depending on how you define "after" and "big thaw" but it should always be in your mind and is another bit of info for your day on the hill.

Have fun

Central gully on Ben Lui has seen many incidents after a thaw.

In reply to seaofdreams:

Sorry I should have been more specific, I meant after a big thaw and then a refreeze.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, can anybody suggest any others?

In reply to Shaunmash:
I did Gardyloo Gulley after a huge thaw then a big ish freeze, it's susposed to be grade II, But be warned in some conditions, it can be steep, I've done easier IVs, I've heard people grade it V before in some conditions (no protection and steep).

In reply to Shaunmash:

It of course all depends on how much build-up there is beforehand and just how catastrophic the thaw is. The big thick ice lines on the Ben and Meagaidh for example tend to be pretty resilient once well established. Things like the Vent in the Norries can be great late season.