UKC

cat3 or 4

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 blackcat 09 Dec 2013
Hi guys, would julbo cat4 shades be too dark for british winter climbing and ice climbing in and around the alps at low level like chams argentiere area,cheers for any advice.
In reply to blackcat:

I've only got cat 3 and were fine in the alps this summer
birdman 09 Dec 2013
In reply to blackcat:

Cat 4 will be too dark for the UK probably. I've only ever used cat3 in the alps as well. I'd probably only get cat 4 if i was going to himalayas with extended periods of time exposed to intense sun light.
 CurlyStevo 09 Dec 2013
In reply to blackcat:
You won't need category whatever shades for British Winter Climbing. I also think it's unlikely you'll need them winter alpine ice climbing as the sun is generally low in the sky and the places that are good for ice climbing tend to be in the shade!
Post edited at 16:33
 Kirill 09 Dec 2013
In reply to blackcat:

Cat 3 may also be too dark.
 CurlyStevo 09 Dec 2013
In reply to Kirill:

more often category -30 would be handy (otherwise known as a headtorch
 franksnb 09 Dec 2013
In reply to blackcat:

I quite like cat 4 lenses for the alps but i have sensitive eyes! blue.

clear or antifog goggles might be your best bet for scotland
 CurlyStevo 09 Dec 2013
In reply to franksnb:

"I quite like cat 4 lenses for the alps but i have sensitive eyes"

summer alpine or winter alpine ice cragging?

Whilst I wouldn't rule out glacier glasses completely for winter alpine ice climbing, I'd only take them on very specific routes I knew were going to be very sunny and fairly high altitude and I certainly wouldn't buy any upfront only for this. For Scottish winter I've never taken or needed glacier glasses.
In reply to blackcat:

Perhaps consider Chameleon lenses which are photochromic Cat 2-4
 Cardi 09 Dec 2013
In reply to blackcat:

£10 Cat 3 polarised from an ebay shop, redfrog or something do the job perfectly. Replace every other year when I lose/break them.
 Only a hill 09 Dec 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

> For Scottish winter I've never taken or needed glacier glasses.

I've climbed in glacier glasses on occasion (when it's very sunny), but realistically any sunglasses will do. Glacier glasses are practical though if you happen to have a pair, as the blocked in side pieces help protect the eyes against spindrift.

Cat 3 isn't too dark when it's sunny in Scotland, but unfortunately that's rarely the case!
In reply to blackcat:
Julbo zebra dirt 2-4 shades. Think aimed at mountain bikers but rated for glacier skiing/sun too.

I use mine- driving, biking, ski touring, climbing, running. Sit nicely under a helmet. Lens changes in about 20 secs so I hardly ever take them off. Topping out of Poachers on Liathach into the sunshine was definitely a 'shades on' moment!
 CurlyStevo 09 Dec 2013
In reply to Only a hill:

sure. in my last couple of seasons living in scotland I realised its all about quality not quantity and I got a lot of sunny mid week days (taken as last minute holiday) and climbed much less on poor days. Whilst it may be technically possible to get snow blindness in scotland, this must be incredibly unlikely especially winter mountaineering on the more shaded aspects (normally anyways). in any case ive never packed or needed sun shades or glacier glasses, although I must confess im not a big fan of them and mainly use them when needs must.
 Michael Gordon 09 Dec 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Not a clue about these cat 3 things (other than that the avalanche risk must be very low at the moment) but it's definitely much more pleasant to have sunglasses some days.
 Jamie B 09 Dec 2013
In reply to blackcat:

What are these things "sunglasses" of which you speak? Come to think of it, what is this thing "sun"? Sounds like a continental refinement, unlikely to catch on in Scotland..
 kemmar 10 Dec 2013
In reply to blackcat:
Sunglasses in Scotland suggests much daftness. Or an existing eye complaint.
Post edited at 01:13
 Michael Gordon 10 Dec 2013
In reply to kemmar:

Try climbing on Post Face, Meagaidh on a sunny March day!
 Siward 10 Dec 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Indeed. I've been on the hill loads of times in bright sunshine and snow. A pair of sunglasses definitely reduces the need to squint and make the whole day more pleasurable. Any shades will do though- I suspect many high street sunglasses are 'cat 2' or 'cat 3' but just don't say so on the label?
 Only a hill 10 Dec 2013
In reply to kemmar:

Seriously? I've had snow blindness before in Scotland and it wasn't pleasant.
 CurlyStevo 10 Dec 2013
In reply to Only a hill:

Seriously? Perhaps you had dirt in your eye
 ScraggyGoat 10 Dec 2013
I also knew a man who got snow blindess in Scotland after a fantastic sunny weekend.

If you don't wear glasses normally, I'd just get a cheapo pair of sunnies with a reasonable UVA & UVB rating, if possible ones that block light entry from the sides (should you be intending to use them in the Alps.) Ones you won't cry about breaking, scratching or loosing.......
 franksnb 10 Dec 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
summer alpine

these

http://www.eyekit.co/sunglasses/julbo-sunglasses/julbo-speed-sunglasses-j37...

i look dead cool in them
Post edited at 16:57
 CurlyStevo 10 Dec 2013
In reply to franksnb:

Well you'd be pretty silly to head up in to the Alpine snow line in summer and not wear glacier glasses IMO, but the OP asked about winter climbing (both summer and alpine)
 knighty 10 Dec 2013
In reply to franksnb:

It's interesting that none of the suggested options mention polarised lenses. I'd consider this to me more important than the category of the lens...
 bigbobbyking 10 Dec 2013
In reply to knighty:

I've never used polarized lenses, but I've heard it said they're not great for skiing (and possibly by extension climbing/general mountaineering) as they diminish the distinctive bright reflection you get from icy patches of snow, so you're less good at spotting icy patches. Anyone found that a problem?
OP blackcat 10 Dec 2013
In reply to blackcat:
Thanks for your input guys,ive got a pair of polarised cat 3 for 21 quid,just to have on me if needed,cheers.
paraffin 10 Dec 2013
In reply to blackcat:

When the going gets tough in Scottish Winter these will see you through
http://www.auroravizion.com/collections/el-wire-glasses?gclid=CJy04oTUprsCF...
 kemmar 10 Dec 2013
In reply to Only a hill:

What would you define as snow blindness?
 Ron Walker 10 Dec 2013
In reply to Only a hill:

> Seriously? I've had snow blindness before in Scotland and it wasn't pleasant.

I've had it too and the worse sunburn ever, after crossing the Cairngorm plateau...
 kemmar 10 Dec 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Maybe my eyes have been dumbed down with countless UV welding 'flashes'. Climbed the Rimpfischhorn with no glasses (lost) and had no reaction at all. Its a long day in the Summer sun.
 whispering nic 10 Dec 2013
In reply to kemmar:

Lucky you. Some degree of snow blindness is very achievable in Scotland and rather unpleasant! Dunno about categories but UV blocks and a bit of a tint would do the job. I like my julbos too fwiw...
 Only a hill 11 Dec 2013
In reply to kemmar:
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photokeratitis
 CurlyStevo 11 Dec 2013
In reply to whispering nic:

I guess some people are more resistant to it than others. I have fairly dark skin for a white man. I noticed when I lived in Scotland many of the Scots were incredibly intolerant to UV (in general). From my summer alpine experience I'd also say I'm pretty resistant to snow blindness as I wasn't wearing glasses all the time and I didn't suffer.
 rossn 11 Dec 2013
In reply to blackcat:

I've got Cat 4 Jublos which I use in the Alps. I would say they are a must there. As for Scottish winter can't remember seeing the sun that often LOL. I sometimes use clear safety glasses keeps spin drift and ice chips out of your eyes and they dont steam up like goggles + they are very cheap.

RN
 rossn 11 Dec 2013
In reply to blackcat:

Forgot to say when it is sunny in Scotland I tend to use ski type glasses probably 3s or 4s, stops you getting a head ache etc etc.
 Only a hill 11 Dec 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

... Whereas I am practically a vampire and am liable to self-combust if I wander onto a glacier without eye protection :P
 Joe G 11 Dec 2013
In reply to Ron Walker:
> (In reply to Only a hill)
>
> [...]
>
> I've had it too and the worse sunburn ever, after crossing the Cairngorm plateau...

I was starting to wonder if it was just me, I frequently wear sunglasses in Scotland. I had a touch of snowblindness after a gorgeous day on the Ben (horrible gritty feeling in my eyes) and bad sunburn after a day in the Cairngorms in winter, and I had suncream on. I must have had sun stroke as well becasue I remember having a pint of Cairngorm Wildcat afterwards and not enjoying it!!
 Michael Gordon 11 Dec 2013
In reply to rossn:

Were none of you out last feb/march? Remember it being almost constantly sunny!
 Morgan Woods 11 Dec 2013
In reply to rossn:

> I've got Cat 4 Jublos which I use in the Alps. I would say they are a must there.

Perhaps for you but as said above i've been fine with Cat 3 on the brightest spring ski touring days.
 CurlyStevo 12 Dec 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

I remember the winter of 09/10 that was very sunny and very cold, I think I only climbed one day that wasn't a blue sky sunshine day, however I didn't need sunglasses at all. The sun is just too low in the sky at that time of year to cause problems for me.
 Michael Gordon 12 Dec 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

OK fair dos. Sure was a great season that one!
 kemmar 12 Dec 2013
In reply to Only a hill:

Low wattage lightbulbs in your house then Fair enough, i didnt realise folk could be affected to that extent in Scotland. Ironically my skin burns easily and ive been sunburnt in February. I do believe though that the majority of folk wearing sunglasses in Winter here dont actually need them. Eye protection from wind driven snow particles would be more relevant.

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