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Topic - Indoor belay: how long before you trust someone?

Loughan - on 10 Dec 2013
I read on another thread that someone is taking a beginner to a climbing wall but doesn't trust them to belay. This got me thinking

I would generally have a beginner belaying me by the end of their second session

In the past I've taken beginners, belayed them on a couple of routes then showed them the belay ropes, climbed up a few feet, weighted the rope and talk them belaying me down.

If they're getting the hang of it and look competent then I'll keep on-going, if they look nervous, not getting it or generally unhappy then stop.

I'd climb easy and slow, keeping an eye on them for a couple of sessions before moving back on to harder stuff where I might ping off.

I've done this several times and haven't had a problem where as some of the worst belayers have been 'experienced' climbers who are busy looking elsewhere.

Ideally you'd have someone experienced holding the dead end ready to lock it off but you can't get that everytime.

other thoughts?
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