UKC

I realise there have been lots of posts around Norries winter conditions lately, however this post encompasses all climbing disciplines/styles.

We have a 3 day trip booked this weekend (Friday, Saturday and Sunday) and winter conditions are looking a bit 'lacking'.

1) Are any routes (ridges, buttresses) likely to be in winter condition? (Invernookie, Pygmy Ridge, Fingers Ridge, Milky Way etc.?)

2) Are any routes likely to be in summer/trad condition or will everything be soaking?

3) What trad/sport crags within reasonable driving distance from Aviemore are good around this time of year/weather conditions?

Cheers,
BR

In reply to blackreaver:

Moy Rock near Dingwall might be worth a punt for sport climbing.

In reply to blackreaver:

Moy for sport - about 45 minutes drive. South-facing, quick-drying and pretty much roadside. Also much better than it looks.

Outside bets for trad within about half an hour would be Creag Dubh, Kingussie and Huntly's Cave - none of them normally much good in winter but if it's mild and dry, they might be worthwhile.

In reply to Andy Moles:

yep Creag Dubh could be nice if it's sunny

In reply to blackreaver:

I think, by a considerable margin, that climbing will be the worst option on your trip as it's damp and warm right now. Go hill walking which will be good.

In reply to blackreaver:

huntlys cave stays dry in the rain, there's bouldering and some routes on the coast.

In reply to blackreaver:

loggie head and cummingston can make good winter trad venues.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

but you need to be careful at cummingston as the rock varies between really quite good and crumbly rubbish. There is a lot of bouldering and top roping there as well as trad because of this.

Loggie head is different rock and better quality for trad.

In reply to alasdair19:


I'd be more inclined to say that Huntly's stays wet, at this time of year. It is well sheltered, but will need a sustained dry spell to dry it out. Cummingstone, Logie Head and Moy Rock are more realistic winter cragging venues.

But I'm inclined to agree with Saor Alba, with a damp forecast hillwalking may be your best option.

In reply to Jamie B:

Its looking ok for rock climbing on the Moray Firth Friday and Saturday

http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/cullen-%28beach%29-mora...

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Thing no one ever mentions though is that the Moray coast is actually pretty far away from Aviemore - hour and a half to Logie, hour and a quarter to Cummy? Fine if you don't mind driving, but quite far if it turns out to be a bit shite.

In reply to Andy Moles:

its a fair point but I think logie head is worth a 90 minute drive (I used to do day trips at this time of year from dundee!)

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Agreed, we salvaged a late-May washout a couple of years ago with a series of day trips from Laggan to Logie Head and Cummingston.

In reply to Toreador:

As I'm sure you know the Moray Firth is quite well known for milder drier weather than much of scotland.

In reply to CurlyStevo:
I've been to Cummingstone for a day-trip from Glencoe - twice! We were fairly desperate for rock and the West was doing what it does best. But those were long summer days and the driving/climbing ratios stacked up a bit better!

In reply to Jamie B:

I think compared to winter climbing driving to logie head and trad climbing has rather a good climbing to other stuff ratio. No reason why you couldn't be there from sun up to sun down allowing around 8 hours climbing and 3 hours driving.

In reply to CurlyStevo:
Try 6 hours driving from Kinloch! Was just about worth it back then, less so now that I've done everything within my grade. And somehow Logie Head just always seemed a drive too far, even although it is a better crag.

In reply to blackreaver:

I would think the likes of Pygmy Ridge and Afterthought Arete might be doable in summer(ish) conditions.

Cummingston in winter with a north wind blowing can get a tad chilly, and quite demoralising if it's a sunny day because most of it faces north, but then maybe it's because I'm more used to going there on long balmy summer evenings when the sun sets over the hills of Sutherland and the dolphins are playing in the waves...

Check the tide for Logie Head, there's stuff to do on a high tide, but much more when it's low.

Personally, I'd go for a walk!

In reply to Joe G:
the wind is from the south this weekend....

Also logie head can be quite sunny at this time of year and you can switch sides of the fin to make the most of it.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

When you put it like that I'm almost tempted to head along there myself