UKC

Hi,

I was wondering what order I should do the following in for the best training effect?

I think that Endurance-->hypertrophy-->recruitment-->power endurance is the way to go. Is there a better order to do them, and why?

A bit of background:- I redpoint 7c/+, onsight 7b and am training to climb single pitches of about 25m in length which are generally fairly sustained rather than having really difficult cruxes.

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Good question. Last I read on the topic the science was far from solid, largely adapdted anecdote. Extrapolating to a multi-energy system sport like rock climbing probably follows a similar path, based on physiological principles combined with experience, trial and error, success and failure. Interesting to hear from the physiologists and the elite who have extensive experience with this.

Your order seems sensible. Base fitness (endurance)first. As stength is primarily correlated to muscle cross sectional area then it makes sense to train hypertrophy, then recruitment to utilise the gained muscle mass. As you are doing sport routes then it would make sense to train strength/power endurannce.

Timing is probably a factor. How long you spend in each cycle is quite relevant. The obvious example is the counterproductivity of endurance and strength training. It would be interesting to see some data on combinations of alactic and lactic anaerobic training on hypertrophy.

Probably also depends on your goals. If you use your onsite grade plus 2 full grades as your redpoint guideline then your stats suggest you maybe just need to work the strength endurance, try harder or other startegies etc to climb harder, as strength may not be the primary issue (assuming a constant route style as you describe). Whereas if you are looking further ahead and periodising to onsight 8a and redpoint 8c then strength (plus the other stuff)is probably what is required!

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

I'm not vastly qualified and don't climb as hard as you but last year I trained power then PE then endurance in four to six week blocks and saw improvements.

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Your approach sounds about right to be; look on the UKB wiki for details of how long each of the energy systems take to train.

Look for the pdf presentations from Dave Binney and Tom Randall

In reply to ilovetoclimb:
Some say its good to have a phase in your training where you are working elements specific to your ultimate goals-as a final phase that is.
.So maybe for the routes such as the ones you describe find a place where you can work circuits(50 to 100 moves) that have say an aerobic component and have intense anaerobic sections as well.
If you live close to a high enough wall perhaps you can be super specific even?

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

Should you climb 30m routes for training and 'taper' for a specific goal (route) ?

Not an expert, just observations.

In reply to ilovetoclimb:

I think it might depend also on the time of the year etc...so off season and season training.

You might want to do your hypertrophy and strength/power training during the off season (or a period of reduced climbing), to reduce the chances of injury.

You could also do some endurance training at the same time say 20 mins after a session? And increase this as the 'season' gets closer.