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UKC Fit Club Week 352

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 mattrm 15 Dec 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or with tional tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (351) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=571822

Not sure who's doing it this week, but have put the post up, in case people want to post. I'll do some stats later on if no one else is doing them.
 mrchewy 15 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt for starting it...

Good week to be honest. Weight has expanded this weekend as I've been drunk since Friday evening. 79kg.

Bouldered on Wed, Thu, Sat and did a session on the campus rail too.

Best I think I've ever climbed this last week - something's clicked. Not the hardest grades I've done but felt right on top of things. Nearly flashed a V3 indoors, it went 3rd go in the end as slipped off the penultimate hold twice. Slopers, work of Satan.

8 sets of 10 x 7/3 on the campus rail, foot on and one minute rests. Only did these due to being hungover yesterday but gonna keep them up as I actually enjoy it.

So two V3s indoors in a week and my best sport session last Sunday - quite content at the moment.
 AJM 15 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt. I had a look at week 345 earlier which is where folk volunteered and I seem to recall it was Iain this week then me the next fortnight.

Lacklustre week this week, much as expected really, moving/leaving/faffing starting to get in the way.

Went to Huntsham, can get to the last move on Alex's Roof easily bit lacked bottle for the last throw - big move, cut loose almost guaranteed and if you came off you could end up almost anywhere! Wuss. Tried the harder variant, Beware the Fascists, supposedly 7B (suggestions of more like 7A from some on logbook), got the crimp with my left but couldn't figure the move to the start of the jug rail. Vaguely promising thoug. As I figure I could maybe make progress on it if I'd had time. Did try peckitt roof 7C but as expected could pull off the floor and go no further. Tried to toprope Triple Lock, E5, but didn't like it, bit dusty.

Lakes at the weekend, ghyll scramble Saturday, about 15 minutes at badger rock today.

Moving out next week, gonna be hard workout, but not expecting to get much or any climbing training done.
OP mattrm 15 Dec 2013
In reply to AJM:

I wasn't sure, so I just started it, in case someone had made a start on the stats, didn't want to waste anyone's time.

Iain - if you're mid doing the stats, sorry about that, just hoof them up on here.
 mbh 15 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt.

My worst week in ages!

M:10 miles, then 5 miles.

So, a good start, but then...job, family and lassitude intervene.

Nothing at all since! Yikes!

Lots of good intentions for tomorrow.
 Nick Russell 15 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:
> UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or with tional tool for all.

Thanks for starting it Matt. The starting post seems to have got a bit garbled recently (see above), would be good for whoever starts next week to sort that out.

M - Yoga, swimming (2.4km).
T - Climbing at TCA.
W - Swimming (2.8km).
T - Core
F - am 7km run (5:12/km), pm climbing at TCA
S - Yoga
S - half-arsed fingerboard session

Felt pretty weak at TCA on Tuesday, got back into it a bit on Friday. Unfortunately they were resetting the mothership all of last week, so I didn't get to climb on the wall I was most interested in. Never mind, flashed a couple of the yellow (V3-V5) circuit, managed to work one of the green (V5-V8) circuit.

Everything hurts today from the yoga yesterday. I don't know anybody else who comes away from those classes in quite as much pain as me... I could barely walk today. I tried to do some hangs on the fingerboard, but with tired shoulders and core it feels a lot harder. Nowhere near where I was at the start of November.

I have 5 more days to put some good training in before I leave Bristol for 3 weeks (Christmas and New Year with family, followed by skiing), so I'll try to make it count!
 Banned User 77 15 Dec 2013
In reply to AJM:

Shit sorry it was.. I'll add the stats tomorrow.. sorry about that.
 hms 15 Dec 2013
Week deteriorated badly due to some family sh!t stressing me out. Had really really wanted a decent routes session and it just didn't happen which I was well peed off about. Here's what I did manage;

Usual 9 mile cycle commute Mon, Weds, Thurs, Fri (per day, not each way)

Tues - bouldering session at Huntsham with AJM. Tried 3 6b+ problems and didn't make much headway on any of them. Did the E5 he mentioned on (really quite tight) TR and loved it, but needs a serious brushing down to remove leaves and sand. Soloed an E1 - easy but nervy as I was NOT doing to trust my weight to any pebbles at the top as umpteen had fallen off as I brushed past them at the bottom!!

Weds - fingerboard. Rather good actually. Taped dodgy finger and not even a twinge on the smaller crimps. Deadhangs on different holds, plus hanging at 90 and full lock. Quite a long session.

Thurs - bouldering at UCR but heaving. Frantically tried to climb more dynamically rather than my usually totally & utterly static style - did NOT feel natural, but at least I was trying.

Sun - bouldering at TCA. Tried the comp probs from the previous day. A fun session but lacking in intensity and would have liked to have stayed longer.

Coming weeks are also looking like they will be very stressful, so not anticpiating anything much in performance at all. Although I want to try harder routes, think I'm just going to get distressed as the other crap gets in the way - maybe stamina is the way to go.

Rant ends.....
OP mattrm 15 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing fit club.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st 6lbs

M - Rest
T - Core
W - Fingerboarding
T - Rest
F - 3 hrs indoor routes
S - Rest
S - 200 dish tucks

The 6b at the wall has been stripped! Gutted. Now I've got to start working another one. Zero motivation this week. Been eating really badly. Otherwise it's been an ok week I guess. Feeling really tired as well. Got a bit of a cold today as well.

However repeat after me:

Next week, I will exercise every day and not eat badly.

Next week, I will exercise every day and not eat badly.

Next week, I will exercise every day and not eat badly.

!!!
 AJM 15 Dec 2013
In reply to hms:

Sounds grim, hope things improve soon...

If you're after harder routes but struggling to get on them, wouldn't circuits or boulders be the more natural alternative rather than stamina laps?
 Eagle River 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt.

Goal: New Aged Traveller

Not sure why I still put the goal(/s) up because it's generally just saying what route I'm currently trying, not a specific aspirational grade or whatnot.

Anyway...

Wed: Indoor routes: More of a trying hard routes session than doing hard sets of doubles, didn't really make any headway on anything but was ruined at the end of the session.

Thurs: Yoga
Fri: Yoga

Sat: forecast of strong southerly wind and rain sent us crawling back indoors (so two weekends on the trot I've not been to Malham). Hard doubles session, got close on the pink 7c which I'll be disappointed not to get before it gets taken down. Got the session intensity right as spent a lot of the time really fighting on routes.

If this current pattern of OK weather in the week followed by rubbish weekend weather continues I'll not get much outdoor climbing done, just a week in spain mid-Jan to look forward to.
 grubes 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:
> Not sure who's doing it this week, but have put the post up, in case people want to post. I'll do some stats later on if no one else is doing them.

> 8/12 - AJM
> 15/12 - iainruk
> 22/12 - AJM
> 29/12 - AJM
> 5/1 - mbh
 grubes 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
MTG (June 2014):
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april - Wheels in motion kind of for two trips maybe or 1 and ceuse
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.

This week's goals:
Climb where possible - 3 wall sessions
More push ups for font - Some not enough
Sloper training - Some

M: rest
T: rest
W: Rokt. Again not a great session some more work on the board project would of done more but training room full of kids.
T: Depot short session. Did lots of blues to just get a work out
F: Rest
S: Goood 2 hour session. Climbed a lot of things I found really hard. Hard sets at the min. bit of lsoper work. Still like them.
S: Rest Christmas shopping and 30mins walk

Next week Goals:
Get a session in mid week amoungst the busy week
Jamming Dodger 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Heres what I was meant to be doing alongside what I actually did. Not a bad week in all.
Monday: 7(ish) mile run, 1.5 hrs swim DID: 8.5 mile run, 1 hr swim.
Tuesday: 28 miles bike DID: 28 miles bike.
Wednesday: No work so run in the afternoon: about 7 miles DID: Climbing at AW for about 3 hrs. Stamina rubbish as expected but hey ho.
Thursday: 28 miles bike, 1 hrs swim. DID: 32 miles bike, about 3 hrs climbing. Big improvement on the day before. Slighty encouraged by this. I just need to keep going now.
Friday: No work (again) but will try a run in the morning. DID: Errr nothing.
Saturday/Sunday: I'll be away for the weekend but will probably get a lot of walking in. May be back in time for the Sunday eve swim. DID: Lots of walking. Better than nothing. Didnt make the evening swim as I had bigger priorities. Also quite tired anyway.
Might try the wheat free thing for a couple of weeks and see how I feel and it will also by default cut out a lot of bad stuff I eat, mainly toast. Damn. I love toast.

This week Im aiming to do "something " every day and get lots of climbing in. A couple of runs, usual rides to work. That kind of stuff.

All is going swimmingly elsewhere in my life and I cant wait to go away. Going to be ace. Life is sweet.
Have a good week everybody.


 pork pie girl 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

cheers for doing FC mattrm

monday- had to go and check rental property and clean it a bit after work, so step ups a the stairs as too late to go to gym.

tues- training garage after work. turbo trainer , weights, pull ups and core

wed- session on garage 40 degree wall.. just to get a feel of it (big session planned for the day after so didn't go mad)

thurs- kendal wall. got higher on the 7b+, lots of lead lapping to the dn the session, finsished knackered

pm turbo in garage, weights, usual pull ups and core

friday- hill run up ingleborough. pm proper training on garage wall (40 degree - the 20 degree wasn't finished) power endurance and also power session.. maily focussing on using flat holds and pinches.

saturday- worked at inlaws flat in kendal (dusty day) then gym.. workout on bike, pm - visit mum

sunday - am turbo in garage. kendal wall.. higher on the 7b+ , lots of mileage on loing steep 7a+ routes. lead lapping for last hour and a half (usual routine now) again felt fooked afterwards


wrist/finger injury was a problem this week.. waking with numb weak hand that wouldn't get back to normal until late afternoon.. pretty much like that all week up until saturday.. so sunday's session went ok. still very tentative about using my left hand on certain holds.. but i'm working round it

tired today .. *yawn* .. couldn't sleep as a bit giddy about climbing wall in garage.. we have flashing christmas lights and dance music to motivate us
 pork pie girl 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

two sessions of yoga... a new addiction developing?
 Banned User 77 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm: UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or with tional tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (351) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=571822

Not sure who's doing it this week, but have put the post up, in case people want to post. I'll do some stats later on if no one else is doing them.



Jamming Dodger: Welcome back, how did the week go, did you get all that done?
AJM: Good week, did you have another go at Left Eye socket..
hms: Solid week.
Tyler: How was the last day in Margalef, neck better? That’s a pain in the arse when it happens..
mbh:Good Saturday… what happened midweek?
maria85: Still pretty good going.. plenty done regardless..
AndrewW: Solid week
ERU: How is the calf?
Nick Russell: Well done on Crow..
grubes: How was the diet? Just cant do that fasting stuff..
Nomics4sale: Full week, well done on the 7a
The New NickB: well come back..good week, well done on the win,.. they all count..
mattrm: Thanks.. Toe not great still.. did the diet improve?
Sankey: Well done for getting out for that run..
Dandan82: well done on the 7a.. any plans for Sword?
Exile: Solid week.
Eagle River: Bad luck on the 7c, did you get to Malham?
pork pie girl: Hows the wrist? Good week anyway
Curious Yellow: Any more goes at your project? Will it go soon?
RM199: A diet? Or just watch it for a bit?-
Ali: Good weekend to finish the week, did you get HoM this week?
mrchewy: well done on the V3..well done on the weight
biscuit: well done on the 7b.. and then the V5.. good few weeks..
Luke Owens: Good week, well done on the 6c
annak: Well done on the dry tooling, feeling better yet?
Ally Smith: hows the shoulder? Well done the wildside..
leon: Feeling better this week?
Mark Torrance: Doesn’t sound great, better week this week?
stevemarkperry: Any visuit to Churnet this week?

Apologies for that.. busy weekend..
 Nomics4sale 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

morning Matt, cheers for starting things off.

STG: have fun in Spain, 7b or V6 indoors.
MTG: 7b+ (Frankie)
LTG: trad

Mon: 9km road run
Tues: Clitheroe wall. Arsed kicked.
Weds: Stockport, worked a 7a+. Need to find a 7b project.
Thurs: Hill reps and 11.7km flat road run.
Fri: 14.6km trail run, Pendle hill.
Sat: Harrogate wall, mileage, worked a 7a, RPed 2 x 6c.
Sun: Depot, tried the comp circuit then switched to blacks and purples when the comp circuit got hard. Good psyche session.

I need to get on harder routes and boulder problems indoors if I'm going to tick my STGs.

 Nomics4sale 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger:

hello mrs dodger. Good to meet you last week. sounds like you're going to have an ace trip .
 Mark Torrance 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

M: [24.3] 9.8 miles road run with about 7 at 7:05 minutes/mile
T: [23.8] 6 miles road run
W: [15.8]
T: [29.8] 14 miles run mainly flat off road, 7:59
F: [29.8]
S: [41.3] 11.5 miles run including Parkrun and 4 x 1 miles muddy intervals
S: [52.3] 11 miles run, road and towpath, 7:49

I was expecting a good Parkrun time, but couldn't find any flow. Felt strong this week apart from that, though. Persistent arse-ache needs to get sorted - I'll have to find time to visit the physio, I think.
 grubes 16 Dec 2013
In reply to IainRUK:
> grubes: How was the diet? Just cant do that fasting stuff..
It was fine I guess runnning does not lead itself to a fasting diet as most of the time you will feel like you are running on empty.

The advantage of the diet is you can eat anything you want. up to average daily allowance of calories (2000 ish) but you must eat this much in your window.
The first two week while your body adjusts is hard you are tired and grumpy.

My girlfriend has been on the 14/10 (12/8 for women) and has lost a lot of weight. This time of year in my job does not really lend its self to this type of diet.
i.e. tuesday the week before I ate my first food at 3pm. next day I ate at 7.15am forgetting about the diet, being at work all day I di not get chance to get in my calories and having a wall session in the evening meant I really struggled.

I am going to try again in january when I have less commitments outside of the normal.
 Sankey 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm: Cheers for the stats. Managed to up the number of sessions this week. Maybe motivated by booking two weeks in Siruana at the start of February

M: Matrix: Problems not re-set this month which was a surprise, but still had a decent session
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Foundry: 3 hours bouldering, mainly mileage on the level 1 problems
S: Works: Couple of hours, worked a few mainly steep problems


STG: More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)

MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working

LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession
 Eagle River 16 Dec 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

I'm really enjoying it and can see multiple benefits for climbing. Therein lies the rub, EVERYTHING IS DONE FOR THE IMPROVEMENT OF CLIMBING PERFORMANCE!

However, works lots of muscles I don't use climbing so good for injury prevention, strengthens my pathetic chicken legs, good for core, stability and flexibility. Struggling to see any downsides! Just need to fit in a home session to get up to 3 times a week.
 AJM 16 Dec 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

> AJM: Good week, did you have another go at Left Eye socket..

Got sidetracked into steeper things so didn't manage to get back onto it.

I think its probably too hard to be honest - I don't think its meant to be a terribly easy 7A+ and its short as well (nominally I've done a 7A+, but at 14 moves it was mainly a powering out issue rather than a raw strength/power issue) - I could basically do the first move from the two "eye socket" holds to a sloper with a ripple on it which I was crimping, there's then a second move which I couldn't do which gets your right hand onto what looks like better holds on the flatter top of the boulder, then from the look of it about another move or two and some scrabbling to get stood up and topped out. Feet were quite blind and quite poor too. It'd feel like a really good benchmark if I got strong enough to do it - maybe next winter once I've made up for the lost strength on the trip and got back into things I will go back and have another look...
 biscuit 16 Dec 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Jealous !

The pics looked good. Xmas lights and music are essential !

The big problem with home walls is normally motivation to use them. I somehow don't think that'll be an issue for you
 Banned User 77 16 Dec 2013
In reply to grubes:

Not a good week for me..

m: 20 miles on exercise bike
t: 3.5 miles on treadmill 10 mins on exercise bike
w: 6.35 miles on treadmill
t: 8 mile road run, 6:55 pace.. felt OK..
f: foot sore again. too much too soon.. 7 miles steady..
s: 7 miles steady
s: 4.2 miles steady foot sore
 hms 16 Dec 2013
In reply to AJM:

circuits are good yes. Onlt snag is that mentally I don't find them the same as routes. Huge advantage that I can slink off and do them on my own though - TCA currently resetting theirs so plenty to go at too.

Did I ever advise against having a family, by the way?! Talk about an emotional rollercoaster!
 The New NickB 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

STG (December / January): Consistent 45 mile + training weeks, weight below 71kg. Make the most of whatever conditions we get this winter and get out climbing ice and mixed. I am also trying to adapt to follow the principles of Matt Fitzgerald’s 2 Rule Diet, which is basically about ensuring a get enough high quality carbs without over eating, should be straightforward, but complicated by rarely eating at home at the moment.
MTG (February / March / April): Consistent 55 mile + training weeks, weight below 69kg, ½ Marathon personal best (currently 1:28:06, which is soft, mainly because I don’t run ½ marathons very often, I ran 1:26 during a 20 miler), Manchester Marathon, improve on this year, ideally under 3 hours. Make the most of whatever conditions we get this winter and get out climbing ice and mixed.
LTG (Rest of 2014): Maintain momentum with the running, concentrate on speed through the Summer, go sub 18 for 5k and sub 37 for 10k. Do more on the bike and maybe do one of the Big Swim events.

Monday: 73.4kg. Just over 9 miles on the road with a few hills, shins felt a bit sore after the weekend so took it easy for five miles then upped the pace a bit. Barefoot stretches and a ¼ mile barefoot run (5 Fingers).
Tuesday: 7 miles fairly easy on the road, still feeling shin soreness. Barefoot stretches.
Wednesday: Decided to rest as shins still sore. Barefoot stretches.
Thursday: 2 mile warm up, followed by 6 miles as 7:30. Shins much better. Barefoot stretches.
Friday: Work do, boozing, no exercise.
Saturday: 1 hour on the road bike, about 15 miles, pretty horrible in strong gusty winds. Running club do, lots of boozing.
Sunday: Nothing.

Total mileage: 24.5.

Very poor week, social engagements meant the weekend was always going to be a write off, but a little caution around injury meant I did less earlier in the week and nothing of any real intensity as well. This week should be much better. Lots of eating and drinking the wrong stuff as well.
 pork pie girl 16 Dec 2013
In reply to biscuit:

na .. i don't think i'll lack motivation..and some good dance tunes totally gets me hyped up. there was some of that minstry of sound chilled out classic stuff on at kendal wall last night .. i heard a more upbeat track and strung together a shed load moves before falling off. (yes i actually use the word upbeat to describe music because i'm old)

i'm in the process of trying to buy second hand weights to compliment the ones i alreday have and another turbo trainer (sarah and me keep arguing over the one we have now .. who's going first and who's left snot and sweat on it etc etc.)

did you sell yours?
 biscuit 16 Dec 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

It's in the garage. But I'm keeping it to actually use as I should be getting a bike in the new year and I don't fancy icy roads.
 Dandan 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Mattrm/IainR,

Mixed week this week, my good ol' inflaming elbows made a comeback since actually putting in some effort at the Cuttings last weekend. It's an old issue that I used to get after climbing hard two days or more in a row, this time it came on after only one day of climbing and not at what I would say was a particularly hard level which is a bit worrying.
It has hung aound all week, making my midweek and weekend climbs pretty depressing affairs, I can only assume it due to the extra gym work I am doing every week. I haven't even started fingerboard training yet so I can't see that going well!
I've tried the tennis elbow cure (weight on a stick) before and not had any joy but I am going to start doing it again just in case, does anyone else have any top tips for reducing elbow pain?

M: cardio; rower 2k 8.28
chest; decline bench, flat dumbell press, incline flys, dips, tricep pull down
T: Shoulder; front barbell raise, arnold press, bent over dumbell lateral raise, front fly, front cable raise, cable lateral raise
W: Climb indoor; 90 min boulder, elbows exploding
T: nothing
F: DIY
S: Climb indoor; 30 min boulder, routes 6a+,6b,6b,6a+ Elbows exploded.
S: DIY

A highlight was when bouldering on saturday, I tried a v6/7 problem (that I probably shouldn't have) that actually made me put +90% effort into a single move, plus it was on my left arm (the recently surgery-ified one) and it felt solid. I haven't been able to confidently put proper effort into a move for over a year now and the feeling was fantastic, I'm really looking forward to being able to push really hard again, I just hope my elbows can keep up.

STG: still climb 7a/+ clean this year, maybe 'live by the sword' although the weather isn't looking too promising at the moment.
 Ally Smith 16 Dec 2013
In reply to IainRUK:
Thanks for the stats - Shoulder has made a strong recovery - see below

VLTG (Sept 2014): Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race

LTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?

MTG (By end 2nd week Dec 2013):

Keep to the plan; double sessions and all!

Tick Costa Blanca 6c+ M.P. - Didn't get on the Penon
Maintain On-sight level out in Costa Blanca, i.e. 7c/+ - Tick - 3x 7c on-sight or flash
Mascarat Gorge Bridge jump - Tick! - video on facebook some time this week

STG (The coming week)
- Assemble new campus board
- Lose some weight; new aim <75kg before chulilla - very fat right now 77.0kg and 7.0% bf-atty - heavy week of drinking to blame

The week just gone:

M - Cabezon d'oro, Sector Deportivo. Good crag. 6c+, 7a+, 7a OS, then failed OS attempt on a 38m 7c. Didn't have enough draws, or enough juice to finish it. Rockfux topo very confusing as to where the lower-off is. Good performance if not a good result!
T - Jumped off Mascarat gorge 100 footer!
W - Sella, Wildside. 6c+ & 7b+ OSs, 7c flash, then back on Ergometria. Lack of daylight meant that as soon as i was through the boulder start i had to go to the top putting the draws in = FAIL!
T - Back to Wildside - dogged, then RP'd Ergometria, then went on OS mission. 7b, 7c, 7b+ OS's then mad dash to airport.
F - 9hrs drinking at work xmas do. Fairly well broken by 9pm and even managed to go home without the ex - tick!
S - Hungover, chores, etc, 13hrs sleep
S - Tremeichion bouldering. Still can't do the 7Cs, but making progress on both 36 and 22 chambers
Post edited at 12:51
 AJM 16 Dec 2013
In reply to hms:
No, they're definitely different - maybe you could add in your own clipping positions to increase relevance slightly, but yes there's always going to be a difference. More relevant still as a substitute for route redpoints than up-down stamina though!

You didn't, no! I'll bear it in mind

1 van load down, only another x to go!
Post edited at 13:00
 Exile 16 Dec 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Thanks for doing fit club Iain

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - maybe!

Autumn: HP Blow Out, (E6,) or start winter climbing - whichever opportunity allows first.

This winter - VI 7

Training:

M: am - 1hr PE traverses @ wall, pm - 45min fell run & 30min general weights
T: Nothing
W: pm - 45min fell run
T: pm - 1hr PE traverses @ wall
F: Nothing
S: 3hr steady MTB ride
S: Nothing

Not a bad week in the end given work and family commitments. Lost my way with my climbing training at the moment as I've been waiting for winter or good enough weather to head point for the last month or so and neither have come along. So, over Xmas write out a training plan and goals for next year and start again!
 Luke Owens 16 Dec 2013
In reply to IainRUK: Cheers Iain!

A bit of a rest week for me this week, forced by illness! Feeling good now after a rest.

My indoor performance improved massively from what I usually feel/climb like in there with the added rest. It confirms I was training to much to get the most out of a session.

Monday: ill/Rest

Tuesday: ill/Rest

Wednesday: ill/Rest

Thursday: Boardroom Indoor Routes

Good volume. 16 Tie-ins in total. In order:

Ticks: 5+, 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6c/+ (3rd go), 6c+ (2nd go)

Fails: 6b+, 6c+, 6b and 6c x 2

Friday: Lunch Time Session
12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Hammer Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)

Weighted Deadhangs (Front 3 Open hand on bottom rock ring pockets)

Progressive Set
5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs

Main Set
12.5kg
Set 1 - 7secs, Set 2 - 8secs, Set 3 - 6secs

3 x 10 Bentover Reverse Flys
10 Leg Raises

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Hope Mountain
Took the little one out for a couple of hours in the morning.

Tried the 7A+ "Middle Undercut" about 10 times. I felt stronger on the holds but no closer on the move to the sidepull. I've tried this on and off for about a year and I'm not as inspired as I was by it anymore. Need to do more 7A's first I think.

Moved on to "Roof LH" 6C+ it starts with a jump into an iron cross cut loose position under a roof. I could never hold the swing/jump but managed it with ease this time. Not sure what's changed despite me not trying the problem all year? Not sure what training would benefit this kind of burly move?

Had about 5 goes almost topping out but just need to fathom the last move. Have since got better beta from friends so psyched to get back on it. Great unique problem!

Had a hairy moment with the little one walking underneath me mid-upside down heelhook...!
Andy Gamisou 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt.

No real climbing this week, and a sore finger so not as much training as I'd like. What I did manage:

- M: fingerboard session, mostly repeaters for endurance.
- T: 40 mins running.
- W: step aerobics and flexibility exercises, esp. hip
- T: Resting.
- F: Resting (hungover).
- S: 30 mins running.
- S: fingerboard session, mostly on small ledgers for strength; lots of push ups.

Thats it.
 Nomics4sale 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Dandan:

Are you warming up properly? I get sore elbows if i jump on hard routes without a few warm ups first. There is a pdf on this site which i found quite useful. Not sure how useful though, my elbow pain seems to come and go randomly regardless of whether i'm doing the exercises.

http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/resources/feature_articles/dodgy_elbows/

Good news about your post surgery recovery. That must feel good.
 Nomics4sale 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Ally Smith:

8a RP, 7c onsight. Good work!

 Nomics4sale 16 Dec 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Is anyone apart from Iain on strava? I'd like to add more people to my feed to give me a kick up the bum when I'm feeling lazy.
 mbh 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

I am. Although you may not want me on your feed. All it will see from me at the moment is big blank mid weeks that don't kick anyone's bum except mine when I reflect on them.
 Nomics4sale 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mbh:

Ha ha but your BG will be impressive! Can you tell me your name so i can find you? Email me if you'd rather not put it on here.
 mbh 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Hi Nomics, it's Michael Hunt.
 Nomics4sale 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mbh:
Gotcha!
 mbh 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Ditto, which I hope is OK. You run up some big hills, so that should motivate me too.
 Nomics4sale 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mbh:
Of course, sounds good.
 mbh 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Just seen your elevation compared to mine. I am already demotivated. What are you running up? Ladders? Don't you have a railway track cycle trail thing lying around, like I have, tempting you all the time?
 Nomics4sale 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mbh:
I just had a look at your mileage! You do the distance, i'll do the hills...
 mbh 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

And Iain can do the speed. Oh, and the hills, when he's near any, and the distance. I mean, proper distance. At least we now see he is forgetful....

It's all helpful. Thamks for the Strava link up.

 ERU 16 Dec 2013

Calf muscle seems ok now, although I've been in a bit of pain this week, so resting a bit:


Sun, 15/Dec Rest (hungover)
Sat, 14/Dec Outdoor climbing > Burbage South Valley Boulders & Stanage (27 Routes)
Fri, 13/Dec Rest
Thurs, 12/Dec Rest (works do)
Wed, 11/Dec Indoor climbing > Bouldering - 1:00 hr
Tues, 10/Dec Rest
Mon, 09/Dec Indoor climbing > Bouldering - 1:00 hr


ST: I hope to be injury free next week.
MT: Rujkan in Feb.
LT: To be climbing well again...
Post edited at 21:15
 ERU 16 Dec 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

> Are you warming up properly? I get sore elbows if i jump on hard routes without a few warm ups first. There is a pdf on this site which i found quite useful. Not sure how useful though, my elbow pain seems to come and go randomly regardless of whether i'm doing the exercises.


> Good news about your post surgery recovery. That must feel good.
Also try this for loads of good advice:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/WinterClimbsinSouthWales/585869764761238/

 mbh 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mbh:

While I am on here, I was dipping in to Adharanand Finn's book Running with the Kenyans last night. It is really eye opening. He tells of a regional cross country race which he describes as one the fiercest you could see anywhere. In a World XC race there would be 10 Kenyans, 6 of whom might come in the top 10. In this one there are 300 Kenyans. I can't remember how many World Record holders, Olympic Champions or big city marathon winners he says he saw there or just around on similar even more commonplace days, but he did say that a European face trailed in near the back of the field. It was Britain's forth fastest marathon runner.
 Cyan 16 Dec 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Thanks for doing the thread Iain. No and no... not back down on Portland until next year now and I have a lot of work to do on the project yet! Off to Turkey next weekend though so will need a pass for a couple of weeks.

Mon - Rest.
Tues - Routes. l3 pitches, 0S up to 6b+, worked a couple of harder routes.
Wedns - Boulder. Didn't get much done, tired from previous day.
Thurs - Boulder. Short session but good, working a couple of interesting V5s.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Short boulder and a couple of routes.
Sun - Rest.
 Tyler 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

M: started the day in farcical fashion by failing to get off the ground on the 6b+ warm up. Got a 7b in two goes and then packed up as this was my fourth day on so skin was sore.
T: Drove to airport and then on to Montgrony (possibly the most stunning crag I've ever been to)
W: RP 6b+, 7a and the fail on another 7a twice - so much for holiday grades!
T: On sighted a 6c+; 2x 7a and also tidied up yesterday's shambles
F: Rest
S: On sighted a 6c+, 7a+ second go (stupid errors cost the OS) and flashed a 7a+ so scarpered for home whilst ahead(or at least not so far behind!)
S: Fly home
 Mr-Cowdrey 16 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

I used to post on here but then lost motivation but hopefully back now

Any way, headed off to Ansteys Cove on Saturday for the first time ever with a mate to try Empire of the sun. It was a little too wet so we left it for another day. Instead, I thought I'd try La Creme 7c+. Now, my hardest sport route to date was a redpoint of a 7a. So I was pleased to clip the second to last bolt! Made the moves and gained the cemented block before the last bolt and easy ground but tiredness got to me and I took a rather big fall. So have left it to next time. 8a here I come!

M: Boulder (Strength)
T: 3 mile easy run. 2.5 mile speed-strength intervals
W: Boulder (Strength)
T: Rest
F: rest
S: Sport @ Ansteys Cove (7c+ redpoint attempt)
S: Nothing

So my goals are as followed:

STG (6 weeks):
- Finish strength phase of training cycle and start on Aerobic/Anaerobic training phase ready for winter climbing.
- Redpoint 7c+ (La Creme)
- Onsight 7b+ (Empire of the sun)
- Ski a Red run (Just started skiing)

MTG (6 Months):
- Climb TD in the Alps
- 10 grade III+ winter climbs
- Climb a grade VI/VII winter route
- Onsight E3
- Headpoint E5

LTG (1year):
- Redpoint 8a
- Onsight E4
- MIA + WML Training

Dream (5+ years)
- MIC/British Mountain Guide training
- Denali trip
- Lots other ambitious ideas!!

 Luke Owens 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

Welcome back!

Any reason why you're skipping 7a+ - 7c+? Going from 7a to 8a would be more than impressive!
 Mr-Cowdrey 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

In all fairness, all the routes there were too hard for me, I only really went there to belay my mate and then to try and top rope Empire, but after he found it was too wet we just thought we'd try a route on the cider soak face. The line looked good, and so I thought I'd try it I was quite suprised at how far I got. Going to leave and try cider soak in the summer, maybe.
 pork pie girl 17 Dec 2013
In reply to biscuit:

that's a good plan, you can get a really good workout and oyu have the flexibility of training when you want. i've started to use a bog digital clock when i'm on mine rather than just the timer on my phone.. it seems to keep me focussed better in terms of maintaining pace for sets when doing intervals. pity the milometre keeps conking out.

i don't fancy icy raods either, i need to get the rear suspension fixed on my mountain bike and start doing off road rides again.. i don't mind cold conditions when i'm off road
 pork pie girl 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

are oiyu ever actually lazy though? .. answer= NO.
 pork pie girl 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Ally Smith:

kicking ass as usual
 RM199 17 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Weigh unknown. Need new scales. Otherwise fair/ good week.

M: boulder central. League problems up to 22. (V3/4 ish) flashed most. Then 6 steep ones up to v3.
T: 4 mile run on roaches plus solo of the ridge. Fun
W: 2 hours badminton with mums club
T: nout
F: planned on getting out in the aft but weather shit, Xmas shopping
S: bouldering at plantation. Pretty good. Lots of mats plus spotters. Ticked both sides of pebble, and crescent aretes. Awesome. Tried ntbta. Not yet.
S: hangover plus small walk

Christmas socialising not helping fitness, though psyke is still high.

 Dandan 17 Dec 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

I'm pretty careful about doing a good warm up before trying anything hard, especially with my delicate shoulder so I don't think it is entirely that, although in the past warming up better has definitely helped keep the pain at bay for longer.
I found that link while searching yesterday, (there is a thread on here about elbows at the moment) there is some good info there, I think the hardest thing for me is diagnosing the exact problem as it doesn't seem to perectly corelate with any description.
I am going to try some of the various solutions people swear by and see if I can find my own personal solution, there has to be a fix for it somewhere!
 biscuit 17 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt and Iain.

A good week all round.

M - Boulder UK. Flashed lots of problems to warm up up to V4. Worked a fingery, deadpointy V5. Flashed a burly V5 but hurt my shoulder. Felt like a reoccurrence of a rotator cuff problem from years ago. Flashed another V5 to prove it was injured, it was. It was very painful afterwards

T - AW. Easy routes to test shoulder, which had been feeling better through the day. It went fine. Did a few 6's a 7a onsight and a 7a repeat. No pain, which is good but very odd.

Run in afternoon i think ? Holcombe hill. 8 miles and i reckon 3-400m ascent in 1hr 6min. Felt good.

W - AW. Doubles session. 4 or 5 sets of doubles on a soft 7a. Completed them all, apart from the first set. Need to find a 7b, 7a+ and 7a to beast myself on.

T/F - can't remember when i went for a run with Nomics. Pendle Hill. 9 miles and conditions Nomics says makes you hardy. Horizontal hail and running in the cloud mainly then ! Good fun once i'd thawed out.

I'm sure i did something at the weekend ? A run with the dog i think and i was going to go on the auto belay at AW but remembered i had Xmas shopping to do so that won.

This week i need to climb 3 times at least and start 7a+, 7a doubles. I'll leave bouldering due to my shoulder and it seems if i am flashing BoulderUK V5 i am doing ok for where i am at the minute.

I got my fat scales back this week so am working out an avrerage. Seems to be around 11.5% and 68kg so no great worries but it'll help to make sure i don't do too much damage over Xmas.

In other news it looks like i've found a house to rent. So i can get my life in order and put my BM back up. Also started work at AW so no excuses not to train as i get in free.
 maria85 17 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Checklist style of reporting succeeded in kicking my ass in to gear last week, mostly!

Climbing
1) 5x3s Tick, all at 5c or 6a/+. Couple of falls/rests on one stupidly hard 6a.
2) Fingerboard endurance Tick, though only a half session as hurting lots!
3) Bouldering endurance
4) Bouldering volume Tick, around 25 problems, nothing too hard.

Core etc
5)Core Tick
6)Core

Cardio
7)Bike commute Tick
8) Bike commute Tick
9) Bike commute - fail, over slept
10) Long run Tick, 10km ish
11) Short run Tick
12) Intervals Tick - orienteering. 2nd female, 13th overall. Steep and muddy - hard going.
13) Intervals Tick 6x1min. Hurt as usual.

10/13 completed.

Have come to realise that I just can't do 4 climbing sessions a week. Going to cut down to three as a target, especially as my shoulder's still hurting from months ago. This week felt good, I felt much fitter and better (as in, not sick) than I have for a while, and have lost a bit of the flab that crept in over the last month or two.

The next couple of weeks are going to be festively terrible. Just aiming to tick as many goals as possible and not get too fat. At least 5 cardio sessions/week and as much climbing as I can squeeze in.
 mbh 18 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

After this month's slackness, I now have 14 days to cover the 137 miles needed to get me to a nice round figure of 2500 miles for 2013. That's achievable, but quite a lot. 10 miles a day for a fortnight, anyone? 23 miles in the last two days is a good start, so let's see how close I can get.
 Exile 18 Dec 2013
In reply to mbh:

Good luck fella.
 biscuit 18 Dec 2013
In reply to mbh:

go for it ! 2500m in a year is a goal worth achieving.
 Nick Russell 18 Dec 2013
In reply to mbh:

From reading your posts for a while, I know you've got it in you... go for it!
 Mark Torrance 18 Dec 2013
In reply to mbh:

It's Christmas. You can run in the daylight. Should be easy and fun!

I've just noticed that I'm 100.03 miles away for 2000 for the year. I wish I hadn't.
 mbh 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Mark Torrance:
Thanks all - and go on Mark, your 100.03 should be even easier and even more fun.

I confess that when I woke up this morning and remembered what I had written, I did look for a delete button! Foolish me.. but here goes.
Post edited at 16:02
 Ali 21 Dec 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers guys, sorry for super late reply - been a manic week. Not much to report from last week - mnanaged to fit in a very short session at the wall and two windswept walks in the Peak at the weekend. Exercise seems to have gone out the window recently - looking forward to doing lots of runs over Christmas!

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