UKC

I recently did Jetrunner (soft E4 6a) and really enjoyed the single 6a move in safety with 5a romps above and below. I can also onsight quite a lot of English Tech 6a boulder problems at the moment, so I quite fancy some other similar (not necessarily in style of moves) routes in the near future.

Any suggestions welcome. I'm thinking E2-4 I suppose.

Cake

(P.S. I recognise this is no way improve, I have other plans too)

In reply to Cake:
Telli, King Kong spring to mind as cruxy and safe.
Also Fading Star (6b?), Boggart Left Hand, Banana Wall, Easy Picking (6a/b).

If you want "single 6a move in safety with 5a romps above and below" then you are looking at E2s not E4s...

In reply to Cake:

Tippler direct

In reply to mark20:

Done Telli. That's just the kind of stuff, Mark, thanks.

Is that Boggart LH with a couple of pads below, or is it a bit higher than I'm thinking?

I wish I'd got on fading star the other week. Banana Wall looks good, as does Easy Picking.

I suppose a bit of trying above and below the crux would be acceptable.

Ta

In reply to The Pylon King:

Yes, on the list. Bit intimidated

In reply to Cake:
That's with gear (medium cam) in the first horizontal break.

In reply to mark20:

The 6a move is a bit lower than what you're after, so E1 rather than 2-4, but "Smoke ont' Watter" seems a close fit:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11044

There's always the direct start to Right Unconquerable but I don't see any reference to an overall grade for this.

In reply to Cake:

Just wondering why you're intimidated? I'm dying to give this route a crack. Seems very safe and worth a go!

In reply to Cake:
Stanage has some really nic 6a-ish one move wonders. Some not already mentioned ones I've done are Trimming the Beard, Plastic Dream, Dark water, Breadline (normally gets a bouldering grade but I defo had E4 fear).
Golden days at Black rocks is really good and Down to Earth at Bamford is nice.

In reply to Cake:

Stone Dri?

In reply to JimboWizbo:
I just got to the bottom of Tippler Direct once and couldn't think what I'd do. Not intimidated by its danger, just fear of failing

In reply to Cake:


Be careful with Easy Picking. I think when I did it, the grade was E2 6a. Like the name, it was a bit sardonic (sorry, Steve). As I recall, it was full-on 6b and you need to save something for the top crack which is probably eminently cammable. But you need to get something in when maybe feeling pumped/a bit wrecked.

Stone-Dri, if you like bridging. Pads would probably make the little slab right of Daydreamer (Nightmare Slab?) reasonable - good practice for Daydreamer and Shock Horror. DIY with pads must also be reasonable - nice moves.

Caveat: 30 years old beta!

Good luck.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

Does Pigs Ear still get tech 6a? Might fit the requirements, probably done with mats these days.

ALC

In reply to Mick Ward:

Agreed, I think Easy Picking was a bit of a Steve joke, I thought it was top end 6a, though I think originally Steve had it down as 5c.

In reply to Mick Ward:

Sorry just checked, Steve had it down as HVS 5b.

In reply to Cake:

How about this little-known variation up near Telli?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=261063

In reply to a lakeland climber:


God knows! I'm long departed from The Peak. But 6a seemed fair for it.



Agree. I'd have thought a couple of mats would render it (relatively) safe.

Mick

In reply to Al Evans:


FFS! Why didn't he just give it VS and have done with it?

Mick

In reply to Cake:

Well easy picking is very close to me, so I'll definitely give that one a look.

I had noticed Pig's ear in a guide, so I'll check that out too.

I've never considered Stone Dri, so thanks a lot for that.

Cake

In reply to Cake:

Easy picking has two hard moves, each of which are a full tech grade harder than the crux of tippler direct

In reply to Al Evans:

The origin for Easy Pickings name comes from the period that myself and Andy Parkin had a spell at Rivelin. We did the obvious natural lines but never tried the quarried wall of Easy Picking. When Steve went to check out the new routes there was this straight forward crack line just waiting for him. With hindsight we should have done it but we were taken by the natural lines.

In reply to Mick Ward:

I'm sure Steve though it was HVS , his group was climbing at a very high level .

In reply to bill briggs1:
It wasn't so far off in the sense of the time. Having worked it really early in my second year climbing I was amazed when I became aware of its reputation. I'd had to work out what to do at the start but I thought it was one of the easiest 6a moves I'd ever managed to do, once I'd sussed the trick and the upper bit was just sustained bouldery 5c stuff. I was being shut down by plenty of 5b problems I'd tried hard on at the time. I can only think people find it anything like 6b because they are climbing it wrong or on the wrong day (Rivelin is for winter).

In reply to Si dH:


If only I'd know at the time - done EP but failed on TD!

In reply to Cake:

A few months ago I did Crystal Tips (E3 6a) at Burbage North which I'd say fits the bill if you've got offset cams. The crux is only a couple of moves and is much less bold with one of these in the appropriate place.

In reply to Si dH:


Damn - if only I'd know that when I failed on it years ago..I've done EP!

In reply to Cake:

Make sure it's good conditions when you try Pigs Ear, otherwise I think it would destroy your fingertips.

Rusty Wall (or whatever the HVS 6a is on that wall) is a popular first tech 6a problem. I'd also recommend Marathon Man at Shining Cliff, very safe one move wonder.

Have fun!

Trist

In reply to The Pylon King:

I'll second that opinion

In reply to Cake:

Quite a good obscure one is Beast of Endcliffe, next to Anniversary Arete.

In reply to Cake:

Looks like Stanage might be a good place to go then:

Beast of Endcliffe (Stanage High Neb)
Trimming the Beard (popular),
Plastic Dream (popular),
Dark water (Popular)
King kong (High Neb)
Beast of Endcliffe (High Neb)
Tippler (Popular)
Pig's Ear (High Neb)
Strike it Lucky (Plantation)
Smoke ont' Watter (curbar)
Fading Star(curbar)
Boggart Left Hand (burbage S),
Banana Wall (Warncliffe),
Easy Picking (Rivelin)
Golden Days (Black rocks) - had a go before. Can do it.
Down to Earth ( Bamford)
Stone Dri (Millstone)
Crystal Tips (Burbage North)

In reply to Cake:

the best I have done recently at 6a is D.I.Y (E3 6a) at Stanage Plantation very, very good