In reply to jcw:
There used to be a "catch" which locked into a groove at the top. You screwed the thing in as far as the rock, flipped the catch and wound the "eye" down to the ice. Saved on tieing it off.
They weighed a ton, rusted like hell, but seemed to work better than warthogs etc. Assorted 'eastern european accented' climbers were selling them in the mid 70's I think it was, for the price equivalent of a pint of beer. May have to root about in my junk and see if I still have the two I bought!