UKC

What are these screws?

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 NottsRich 21 Dec 2013
Can anyone tell me anything about these?

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10100988142797708&l=b00fa6a1c6

Who made them, when were they used, any interesting stories behind them? I've had them a while and I'm intriuged by them. They were given to me in a Petzl bumbag. I guess that was before other methods of racking screws were developed? Thanks.
 jcw 21 Dec 2013
In reply to NottsRich:
They look to me very like the first ice screws in what's the name of that stuff (duraliimunium?) used in space craft which arrived from the Eastern Block and helped revolutionize ice climbing. You had to know how to get hold of them as they were never on the open market as I remember. I have never seen one with an adjustable head however.
 jcw 22 Dec 2013
In reply to NottsRich:

Further to my posting: chrome-moly(bdenum). Climbers from behind the Iron Curtain sold them to obtain currency for their trip. I bought some from a guy selling them on the street at Cham. But when? At a guess early 70s. Anyone narrow it down? Incidentally, the one in your picture with the head half way down the screw must have broken its solder, otherwise you wouldn't be able to unscrew it.
 johncook 22 Dec 2013
In reply to jcw:

There used to be a "catch" which locked into a groove at the top. You screwed the thing in as far as the rock, flipped the catch and wound the "eye" down to the ice. Saved on tieing it off.
They weighed a ton, rusted like hell, but seemed to work better than warthogs etc. Assorted 'eastern european accented' climbers were selling them in the mid 70's I think it was, for the price equivalent of a pint of beer. May have to root about in my junk and see if I still have the two I bought!
OP NottsRich 22 Dec 2013
In reply to both:

Thanks, that's interesting. jcw, there's no solder to break. As johncook says, the eyelet winds down the screw rather than having to tie it off short. Seems like a good (ish) idea but not sure I'll try it out... They seem really solid, but I guess that's why they're so heavy!



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