In reply to dapperdan:
>"Im writing this post to highlight my concern about lack of training of staff at indoor walls / sportcentres.
> Today I fell off a boulder problem and broke my ankle at a local wall. Everybody I dealt with immediatly after was shockingly incompetant to be frank."
I'm making no specific comment about an indoor wall, just a general observation, over many years of being told off by well meaning, clueless puppets.
I'm really not surprised at the total lack of training / experience / ability to see what was happening / intervene / make judgements for themselves. I know there are many experienced and sound 'instructors' working at these indoor, vertical gyms. However, many have no climbing qualifications and/or no climbing experience beyond 'site specific' ticks and only a notion of what climbing, even belaying is really about.
They have been put in place by risk averse managers, trained to point out bad practice (eh! you think thats bad practice!!) and, when the wheel comes off, haven't a clue. For this, they will charge you the earth to enter their premises and climb at your own risk. Mmm?
Don't be surprised at your finding. Don't go back, but get on some real rock, where the only rule is you do what you have risk assessed, not what some poor puppet instructed by the insurance company tells you....cause they don't actually know any better