UKC

Strap on crampons for grade III

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iamaclimber 06 Jan 2014
Hi

I have a friend who wants to come winter climbing with me. His crampons are a strap on type, with no toe or heel bail. I want to take him on some grade III ground. The boots are maybe a soft B2, or perhaps a stiffish B1. What are people thoughts on whether these spikes will work okay on this sort of ground - as a one off?

Thanks
 neilwiltshire 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

I would stick to I's and II's
 csw 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

They will probably be fine - If he won't be leading, definitely so
 gethin_allen 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

Depends on the route and conditions. If it's nice and stepped out then maybe, but I wouldn't want to climb much water ice with such crampons.
 lithos 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

hard to say without knowing the conditions, routes etc. cant see why it wouldn't work but my main worry would be them coming off and falling down the hill, so thread a strap through the laces so you cant lose the cramps if they do come off (more likely with bendier boots)
 Mountain Llama 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

Provided the boots are stiff enough, I would go for a I or II route to test them out before taking the plunge straight away

I find them to faffy to put on when your hands are cold and its blowing a hooly, so get your mate to practice putting them on.

Jim C 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

> Hi

> I have a friend who wants to come winter climbing with me. His crampons are a strap on type, with no toe or heel bail. I want to take him on some grade III ground. The boots are maybe a soft B2, or perhaps a stiffish B1. What are people thoughts on whether these spikes will work okay on this sort of ground - as a one off?

> Thanks

Large nylon Cable ties under the crampons and through the laces, might give some extra security ( have something to cut them off of course)

I find them useful for lots of stuff, you can even link them together into long lengths, if need be. Great for holding makeshift walking pole splints together, etc. etc.
iamaclimber 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

Thanks all

I guess I'm more concerned about potential massive flex when on the front points on steeper ground, as opposed to a crampon popping off (which I know is bad news, but can be guarded against).
 Mountain Llama 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:
Hi, the flex u mention will be directly proportional to the stiffness of the boot regardless of C1, C2 or C3 crampons, ie the key to a secure fit lies with boot stiffness regardless of crampon fixing method. This type of crampons was previously used to climb hard routes but with stiff boots.
Post edited at 13:41
 Billhook 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

Strap on types were what many of us used once. But they obviously work with stiff boots best.
What I'd do is what Mountain Llama suggests and try them out on something a little easier first.

 Jamie B 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

They might work, they might not. Without actually seeing how secure they look on the boot it's pretty much impossible to comment. I've certainly seen similar combos do the job on easier ground, but there are no guaruntees. Has he used this particular boot/crampon combo before?
iamaclimber 06 Jan 2014
In reply to Jamie B:

Yes, but only on grade I stuff - ridges and snow gullies
 jonnie3430 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

> The boots are maybe a soft B2, or perhaps a stiffish B1. What are people thoughts on whether these spikes will work okay on this sort of ground - as a one off?

They'll be fine, I was climbing VI in a setup like this last winter (really light and comfy too, just wore out quicker than G14s and Nepals which is what I am back to using and saving the other combo for Alps and touring.)
 Michael Gordon 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

To be honest I reckon if the boots are quite flexible, strap on crampons may be better than clip on. If you do them up good and tight they are probably less likely to come off than if they were clip on. If they're anything like the old G12s they'll be absolutely fine.

Nothing wrong with the crampons but I'd consider getting some new boots!
iamaclimber 06 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

Thanks all
 Euge 07 Jan 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

I've done mixed IV in strap on crampons and flexible boots.
Not a good combination for ice though...

E
 franksnb 07 Jan 2014
In reply to Jim C:

cable ties are going into my winter bag now, good idea.
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