UKC

I was wondering what the general consensus is on what constitutes a successful top-out on an indoor or sport route? In the past I’ve always aimed to finish routes by clipping the top anchors whilst still ‘on route’ (i.e. without grabbing belay chains, the top of the wall, or a different coloured hold etc.).

Is this a fair approach, or is simply reaching the top of the crag or the top hold (i.e. similar to indoor bouldering) good enough to tick a route off ......with anything available to hand fair game once you’ve got there?

I’m currently trying to push myself a bit harder at the climbing wall, so am typically getting to the top of (some!) routes a bit more pumped than usual. It’d be good to know whether I’m cheating if I were to relax my stringent topping out standards slightly!

Cheers,

Mike.

In reply to Otis:

For me it is:

Bouldering: Match the last hold (and hold it not just touch it)
Sport Indoors: Clip the lower off
Sport Outdoors: Clip my cows tail into the lower off or thread one of the pig tails.

In reply to Otis:

I don't do outdoor sport climbing (trad lover) but indoors, as you said, I aim to clip the top anchor while still on route. Top roping I always aim to get the top of the wall to at least chest height for that extra foot of climbing (and a sneaky peak over the top of the wall to the dusty treasures behind).

In reply to Otis:

Clipping the lower off. Unlike some people I know I do try and avoid using other , off route holds, whilst making the clip.

In reply to Otis:

Yeah, you're supposed to clip while still on the route, unless on particular routes you're allowed to grab the chain/whatever.

jcm

In reply to Otis:

10 pull ups on final hold, regardless of how good the hold is

In reply to Otis:

Depends on the rules!

In the BMC leading ladder, clipping the lower-offs.
In the Quay Climbing Centre's 'leading ladder', clipping the lower-offs AND holding the top hold in control.
In the Quay summer boulder league, top hold in control (boulder rooms).
In the Barn boulder competitions, topping hold (artificial boulder).

And if you aren't doing a thing with rules? Then the rules are up to you...

Obviously outside there aren't any 'holds' so clipping the chains seems obvious, as does topping out on a boulder problem that tops out!

In reply to andrewmcleod:




Can you clip the lower-off and be out of control?

In reply to Otis:

Sometimes I just drop off at the end of the route instead of clipping the lower off. Have I not sucessfully climbed the route then? .

For bouldering a hold the hold in control with one hand and touch it with my other hand dropping off a few seconds later.

In reply to Michael Gordon:


Only 10?

In reply to FreshSlate:



I only count it if I share and swap on it

In reply to Bulls Crack:

What if the last hold is a mono?

In reply to Otis:

Hold the last hold, touch the chain, let go ...

... is my plan for a spring falling practice campaign. (The belayer will of course be in on the secret)

In reply to Bulls Crack:


Dyno-clip!

More seriously in the Quay rules I described you have to clip the lower-off and hold the TOP hold in control, not necessarily at the same time. I have done routes where you can clip the lower-off several moves before getting to the top hold.

In reply to crayefish:


Lool - I'm not the only one!

In reply to kwoods:

Haha. I'm always curious as to what's behind; be it the supporting structure or a pile of 50 year old jumars and quickdraws plus on a short 15m route ita always good to have that extra meter of climbing.

In reply to Otis:

There are quite a few sport climbs I've done in France where the chain is the final hold. The first time I climbed in Buoux I remember getting to the top of a route then having a total nightmare clipping the chain. It was by far and away the hardest move on the route. Some local on a nearby route was laughing his head off and eventually explained that the local ethic involved grabbing the chain. I personally still avoid grabbing the chain if there are decent holds to clip from but if it's obviously the way the bolter intended it, I'm happy to grab away.

In reply to M0nkey:

There does appear to be a lack of consistency. In a similar way, I always though sports routes were graded for the redpoint but the new guide for Orpierre specifically states that the routes are graded for the on-sight.

In reply to FreshSlate:

All the walls I use - Manc, Stockport, Leeds, Harrogate - have a finishing jug - can't recall any other types of hold! - some are large some smaller - seems little odds between those and the top of the wall so can't say I've ever really thought about it!

In reply to ianstevens:


One armers.