In reply to tombain:
If it helps, i was in SCNL today. lots of snow, its ok in places but move over a foot and its not consolidated that well as its not had a good enough freeze (+2c at bottom of crag). The ice was really cruddy as well. A team descended from an attempt on twisting gully and I had a look in SC gully but it was plastered in snow and there was nothing obvious after a fair bit of digging for a good belay to start with. I wouldn't envisage things improving quickly for the weekend.