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Just getting it started.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Thanks JK
This week I didn't run as far or as often as I meant to, nor did I mix long and short runs, but I still managed 4 x 10 milers, with one on the coast path and two at 7:35 ish pace. 26 miles under 8:00 pace, and 12 under 7:30 (although many miles start at >8:00 pace and end near 7:00 pace). Lots of rain.
M - 10.6 - hilly but a good long flat bit. @8:18
T - nothing.
W - nothing.
T - nothing.
F - 10.2 - woods, mud and coast path but no rain. @ 8:18
S - 10.3 - fast as I could, flat as I could. @7:33
S - 10.0 - rain, rain, rain. @ 7:35
Thanks JK
This week I didn't run as far or as often as I meant to, nor did I mix long and short runs, but I still managed 4 x 10 milers, with one on the coast path and two at 7:35 ish pace. 26 miles under 8:00 pace, and 12 under 7:30 (although many miles start at >8:00 pace and end near 7:00 pace). Lots of rain.
M - 10.6 - hilly but a good long flat bit. @8:18
T - nothing.
W - nothing.
T - nothing.
F - 10.2 - woods, mud and coast path but no rain. @ 8:18
S - 10.3 - fast as I could, flat as I could. @7:33
S - 10.0 - rain, rain, rain. @ 7:35
In reply to mbh:
Nowt - manflu turned into proper flu and been totally nailed to the floor.
At least the year can only get better!
Nowt - manflu turned into proper flu and been totally nailed to the floor.
At least the year can only get better!
In reply to mrchewy:
Hope you get better soon! Enjoyed reading your blog on the Llanberis slate quarries.
Hope you get better soon! Enjoyed reading your blog on the Llanberis slate quarries.
In reply to mbh:
Cheers! I love the quarries. Psyches me more than anywhere, even if it's just for a walk.
Sorta ignored the blog last year as my head was all over the place but back on it soon, just sorting some pics from Guédelon - a newly built castle in France that's being built by human power only. We stopped by on the way to Font from the Ariege, an amazing thing to be done.
Cheers! I love the quarries. Psyches me more than anywhere, even if it's just for a walk.
Sorta ignored the blog last year as my head was all over the place but back on it soon, just sorting some pics from Guédelon - a newly built castle in France that's being built by human power only. We stopped by on the way to Font from the Ariege, an amazing thing to be done.
In reply to mrchewy: nice to be back running.. 77 for the week, back to 90+ next week..
m: 10 mile 7:30 pace road run
t: 10.1 mile road run 6:53 pace
w: 10 mile road run, 7:22 pace
t: lunch: 5.6 mile trail run. pm: 6.5 mile run with track, 4x200s, 3 x 800s, 2 x 400s
f: lunch: 5.7 mile trail run. pm: 6 mile road run.
s: 12.5 mile road run
s: 10.4 mile road run
m: 10 mile 7:30 pace road run
t: 10.1 mile road run 6:53 pace
w: 10 mile road run, 7:22 pace
t: lunch: 5.6 mile trail run. pm: 6.5 mile run with track, 4x200s, 3 x 800s, 2 x 400s
f: lunch: 5.7 mile trail run. pm: 6 mile road run.
s: 12.5 mile road run
s: 10.4 mile road run
In reply to JimmyKay:
M: Went to Stockport with the intention of doing routes but performed so miserably on the warm ups I went and sulked in the bouldering wall which I enjoyed.
T: Lazy
W: Boulder UK, no real progress. Did a tiny bit of dead hanging at the end
T: 10km run, surprised to have set a new PB ( by some margin as well)
F: Quick session at Boulder UK, manged one project which I should have got preciously and did the crux on two others but couldn't link. If I do these I expect they will be a minor step up
S: I don't usually count hill walks as training but I loaded my rucksack up will weight and by the end my legs were more knackered than after a run so I'll take it!
S: Rockover in Manchester, there have been some massive improvements since I last went (to the wall not me) - I think I'll be going back.
M: Went to Stockport with the intention of doing routes but performed so miserably on the warm ups I went and sulked in the bouldering wall which I enjoyed.
T: Lazy
W: Boulder UK, no real progress. Did a tiny bit of dead hanging at the end
T: 10km run, surprised to have set a new PB ( by some margin as well)
F: Quick session at Boulder UK, manged one project which I should have got preciously and did the crux on two others but couldn't link. If I do these I expect they will be a minor step up
S: I don't usually count hill walks as training but I loaded my rucksack up will weight and by the end my legs were more knackered than after a run so I'll take it!
S: Rockover in Manchester, there have been some massive improvements since I last went (to the wall not me) - I think I'll be going back.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Not a great week from me, mocks then a bit of a cold had motivation pretty low.
Mon - revision
Tue - revision
Wed - bouldering at AW Stockport. Really good session, but I've been forced to accept that once again the set is super soft. All but two of the V6 circuit flashed, one second go, the other was compensating for all the rest by being brick hard. Also got a few of the V7-8 circuit, and flashed the slabby one. However V6s on the other (steeper) side took a lot more work - work weaknesses!
Thurs - rest, let the cold commence
Fri - still full of cold but still managed a fingerboard session. Tried max power hangs instead of repeaters. Best managed on the BM 2000 were hangs on the small two finger, and back three on the smallest crimp.
Sat - went on a run to destress from revision. Had a great run, beat my P.B by a couple of minutes despite trails with streams running down them and a big muddy hill. Extra motivation came from listening to music, made a lot of difference on the long boring hill bit.
Sun - rest, sore.
A least I got a little variation in there...
Cheers, Jake
Not a great week from me, mocks then a bit of a cold had motivation pretty low.
Mon - revision
Tue - revision
Wed - bouldering at AW Stockport. Really good session, but I've been forced to accept that once again the set is super soft. All but two of the V6 circuit flashed, one second go, the other was compensating for all the rest by being brick hard. Also got a few of the V7-8 circuit, and flashed the slabby one. However V6s on the other (steeper) side took a lot more work - work weaknesses!
Thurs - rest, let the cold commence
Fri - still full of cold but still managed a fingerboard session. Tried max power hangs instead of repeaters. Best managed on the BM 2000 were hangs on the small two finger, and back three on the smallest crimp.
Sat - went on a run to destress from revision. Had a great run, beat my P.B by a couple of minutes despite trails with streams running down them and a big muddy hill. Extra motivation came from listening to music, made a lot of difference on the long boring hill bit.
Sun - rest, sore.
A least I got a little variation in there...
Cheers, Jake
In reply to JimmyKay:
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
MTG (June 2014):
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
Mid week session (at the biscuit factory?)- Tick Met ali and friends and felt completely battered by the end
Weekend Get out on the grit. - Tick
in the Peak? - Weather fail.
M: rest
T: Biscuit factory 3.5 hours. Took my time warming up while it was quiet. then got stuck into the Reds (V3-5) and greens (V2-4). Did loads some good problems. Some not so good. Generally interesing starts if you dont french.
W: Weather enduced Rest. Drove to holmfirth walked in and it was drenched mate climbed enforced eliminates climbing on only dry holds. Made easy warm ups feel nails!
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Awesome Forcast. Drove to the peak. Rain on the way down then snow then heavy snow which made strines feel quite exciting to drive down. Went to outside. Drove to curbar soaked. Drove to burbage but it was in the fog as we drove past. Back to outside to see and friend then drove home.
S: Poor forecast night before. Drove to brimham which was in a thick fog. Warmed up nicely on good problems up to 5+ ish tried 2 6Bs not my style then spotted for a bit as mate did the anchor. Next area was wet and over grown. Next area same. Then cleft buttress not feeling overly inspired went to trackside boulder. Did two nice smeary slabs (4+ and 5). Back to cleft buttress tried murky rib (6C). First go got the sloper and in shock had no idea what to do next.Fell off and worked out the next move. Fell a couple of tiems then got my self to the last move confused and tired puntered off. Got up ther 4/5 more times then ripped a load of skin off my finger. Moved over to the niche but had a massive puddle underneath. Tried a 6C arete at the end but was too tired to do it.
Nice day climbing in -1/-2 or lower temperatures. Really eerie in the thick fog.
Next week Goals:
Climb something in the 6's
Climb in the peak
Can't believe how good brimham was. Why have I not been before?
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
MTG (June 2014):
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
Mid week session (at the biscuit factory?)- Tick Met ali and friends and felt completely battered by the end
Weekend Get out on the grit. - Tick
in the Peak? - Weather fail.
M: rest
T: Biscuit factory 3.5 hours. Took my time warming up while it was quiet. then got stuck into the Reds (V3-5) and greens (V2-4). Did loads some good problems. Some not so good. Generally interesing starts if you dont french.
W: Weather enduced Rest. Drove to holmfirth walked in and it was drenched mate climbed enforced eliminates climbing on only dry holds. Made easy warm ups feel nails!
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Awesome Forcast. Drove to the peak. Rain on the way down then snow then heavy snow which made strines feel quite exciting to drive down. Went to outside. Drove to curbar soaked. Drove to burbage but it was in the fog as we drove past. Back to outside to see and friend then drove home.
S: Poor forecast night before. Drove to brimham which was in a thick fog. Warmed up nicely on good problems up to 5+ ish tried 2 6Bs not my style then spotted for a bit as mate did the anchor. Next area was wet and over grown. Next area same. Then cleft buttress not feeling overly inspired went to trackside boulder. Did two nice smeary slabs (4+ and 5). Back to cleft buttress tried murky rib (6C). First go got the sloper and in shock had no idea what to do next.Fell off and worked out the next move. Fell a couple of tiems then got my self to the last move confused and tired puntered off. Got up ther 4/5 more times then ripped a load of skin off my finger. Moved over to the niche but had a massive puddle underneath. Tried a 6C arete at the end but was too tired to do it.
Nice day climbing in -1/-2 or lower temperatures. Really eerie in the thick fog.
Next week Goals:
Climb something in the 6's
Climb in the peak
Can't believe how good brimham was. Why have I not been before?
Post edited at 07:57
In reply to JimmyKay:
Thanks for getting it started. After good intentions last week, I ended up with several niggles this week, which threw me off. Left kneecap is playing up so having to ease up on all fronts.
Managed three sessions at the wall bouldering, although ripped the skin of several fingers on Tuesday which didn't help.
In terms of general fitness, cycling to work keeps things ticking over, but starting off from lights and hills are killing the knee. Need to watch that.
One run, which was good. Overall, hit a bit of a bad patch, so need to get things diagnosed and then reassess.
In terms of goals, would love to break into HVS on trad properly (one OS lead so far).
Thanks for getting it started. After good intentions last week, I ended up with several niggles this week, which threw me off. Left kneecap is playing up so having to ease up on all fronts.
Managed three sessions at the wall bouldering, although ripped the skin of several fingers on Tuesday which didn't help.
In terms of general fitness, cycling to work keeps things ticking over, but starting off from lights and hills are killing the knee. Need to watch that.
One run, which was good. Overall, hit a bit of a bad patch, so need to get things diagnosed and then reassess.
In terms of goals, would love to break into HVS on trad properly (one OS lead so far).
Just got back into training a few weeks ago.
Last week I was on a rope access refresher course so surely that counts for some kind of training.
On top of that I managed the following:
Monday - 10k run on the coast
Tuesday - 2 hour core workout and a little upper body
Wednesday - regret for the upper body when I spent the day hauling casualties about on a rope. 10k run on the coast again.
Thursday - Rest
Friday - Wiped out from rope access assessment. Still managed a 2 hour core session.
Aim this week to run 10k a day and at least a core workout everyday
Last week I was on a rope access refresher course so surely that counts for some kind of training.
On top of that I managed the following:
Monday - 10k run on the coast
Tuesday - 2 hour core workout and a little upper body
Wednesday - regret for the upper body when I spent the day hauling casualties about on a rope. 10k run on the coast again.
Thursday - Rest
Friday - Wiped out from rope access assessment. Still managed a 2 hour core session.
Aim this week to run 10k a day and at least a core workout everyday
In reply to JimmyKay:
Thanks for doing fit club.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - Yoga
T - 250 dish tucks
W - pullups and pushups
T - 20 min core & yoga
F - Rest / Drive to Scotland
S - Fiacaill Ridge (II)
S - Goat Track Gully (II)
3 core workouts - 2
2 pushup/pull up workouts - 1
2 indoor climbs - 2 (yes two Scottish winter days)
5 yoga - 15/20 mins yoga 2
Good diet! - till the weekend yes!
Good week. Went up to Scotland. Got a couple of winter routes in, which was excellent. Calves are uttlerly hammered now. I spent a while showing my mate good crampon technique on the Goat Track and it's stuffed them. Currently on the sofa with compression tights on. Had ate quite well, till the weekend, then it was beers, burgers and venison goulash. Still, did a fair bit of exercise in the days leading up. Going to try to get 3 of the 20 min core workouts done.
Goals for next week:
3 core
4 yoga
2 indoor climbs (or 1 climb, 1 fingerboard)
Good diet
Thanks for doing fit club.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - Yoga
T - 250 dish tucks
W - pullups and pushups
T - 20 min core & yoga
F - Rest / Drive to Scotland
S - Fiacaill Ridge (II)
S - Goat Track Gully (II)
3 core workouts - 2
2 pushup/pull up workouts - 1
2 indoor climbs - 2 (yes two Scottish winter days)
5 yoga - 15/20 mins yoga 2
Good diet! - till the weekend yes!
Good week. Went up to Scotland. Got a couple of winter routes in, which was excellent. Calves are uttlerly hammered now. I spent a while showing my mate good crampon technique on the Goat Track and it's stuffed them. Currently on the sofa with compression tights on. Had ate quite well, till the weekend, then it was beers, burgers and venison goulash. Still, did a fair bit of exercise in the days leading up. Going to try to get 3 of the 20 min core workouts done.
Goals for next week:
3 core
4 yoga
2 indoor climbs (or 1 climb, 1 fingerboard)
Good diet
In reply to JimmyKay: Cheers, and thanks to FC for the route suggestions in Siruana. Was a good week, did something on all bar one day.
M: Run 4.6 miles
T: Matrix - did a couple of 6b's. Working fingery stuff up to 6c
W: Run 4.6 miles
T:
F: Circuits at the Edge (Was very busy, but still looped around a few times at 6a/6b)
S: Walked 4.75 miles
S: Works - mixed session of a few circuits and a range of gently overhanging problems
STG: Get ready for Siruana - no really ambitious aims, just want to get on quality at around 6b+ to 7a.
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
M: Run 4.6 miles
T: Matrix - did a couple of 6b's. Working fingery stuff up to 6c
W: Run 4.6 miles
T:
F: Circuits at the Edge (Was very busy, but still looped around a few times at 6a/6b)
S: Walked 4.75 miles
S: Works - mixed session of a few circuits and a range of gently overhanging problems
STG: Get ready for Siruana - no really ambitious aims, just want to get on quality at around 6b+ to 7a.
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
In reply to JimmyKay:
Cheers Jimmy.
STG (Winter): V6 or 7b indoors
MTG (Spring): RP 7b+ (Frankie) and onsight more 7as outdoors
LTG (Summer): more trad E1s and E2s.
Mon: Hill reps
Tues: Boulder UK. Tried the V6 again but couldn't get to my previous high point. That'll be the xmas bulge.
Weds: 12.1km road run, 125m ascent. 5.18/km.
Thurs: 16.1km trail run Forest of Bowland, 613m ascent. 6.23/km.
Fri: Kendal wall, worked the 7b+.
Sat: 20.5km trail run to Fairfield and Red Screes from Ambleside, 1,283m ascent. 10.05/km
Sun: Harrogate wall bouldering, new circuit.
I was very distraught to find I couldn't match my previous high point on the V6 on Tuesday and now new problems have gone up so I've lost my chance of getting it ticked. Ah well, I only have myself to blame. More to go at now so will try getting on another one this week.
Cheers Jimmy.
STG (Winter): V6 or 7b indoors
MTG (Spring): RP 7b+ (Frankie) and onsight more 7as outdoors
LTG (Summer): more trad E1s and E2s.
Mon: Hill reps
Tues: Boulder UK. Tried the V6 again but couldn't get to my previous high point. That'll be the xmas bulge.
Weds: 12.1km road run, 125m ascent. 5.18/km.
Thurs: 16.1km trail run Forest of Bowland, 613m ascent. 6.23/km.
Fri: Kendal wall, worked the 7b+.
Sat: 20.5km trail run to Fairfield and Red Screes from Ambleside, 1,283m ascent. 10.05/km
Sun: Harrogate wall bouldering, new circuit.
I was very distraught to find I couldn't match my previous high point on the V6 on Tuesday and now new problems have gone up so I've lost my chance of getting it ticked. Ah well, I only have myself to blame. More to go at now so will try getting on another one this week.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Thanks for getting it started.
This week was a planned week of rest from climbing but not from exercise. Managed to pack in the following around helping various offspring with their revision:
M:walked about 4 miles
T:bike commute (9 miles)
W:bike commute (9 miles)
T:first TRX core session. It's hard work!
F:bike commute (9 miles). Another TRX core session. Have to be a bit careful as there is a lump of muscle just at the bottom of my ribcage which goes into vary painful spasm if I overdo things - ended up with a hotwater bottle on it for the rest of the evening, trying to get it to unspasm & relax!
S:
S:bouldering at TCA, trying some of the previous days redpoint comp problems and some steep stuff. The TCA bouldering circuits really aren;t a good range at the moment, they overlap almost totally except the very hardest circuit which is rather out of my league. Rest of family's skin gave up before I'd really had enough, so did a TRX session in the afternoon too (but maybe a little more gently)
STG surviving the next 2 weeks. If is only 4 weeks to Chorro. Home & work stress likely to remain high so not sure how best to approach training for it. Suspect I may concentrate on up-down-ups for routes as and when I can, and fingerboard at home too - mentally low stress stuff as it isn't the time to be beating myself up over indoor projects.
MTG at Chorro - never climbed there so don't know the style or grading. Would hope to do a couple of 7s during the week, but honestly I just want to have a nice time!!
LTG Kaly, Sept - I believe that AJM wants me to put down 7c. I'd be happy with 7b+. As Kaly is a coaching course I don't know what the pace will be.
Thanks for getting it started.
This week was a planned week of rest from climbing but not from exercise. Managed to pack in the following around helping various offspring with their revision:
M:walked about 4 miles
T:bike commute (9 miles)
W:bike commute (9 miles)
T:first TRX core session. It's hard work!
F:bike commute (9 miles). Another TRX core session. Have to be a bit careful as there is a lump of muscle just at the bottom of my ribcage which goes into vary painful spasm if I overdo things - ended up with a hotwater bottle on it for the rest of the evening, trying to get it to unspasm & relax!
S:
S:bouldering at TCA, trying some of the previous days redpoint comp problems and some steep stuff. The TCA bouldering circuits really aren;t a good range at the moment, they overlap almost totally except the very hardest circuit which is rather out of my league. Rest of family's skin gave up before I'd really had enough, so did a TRX session in the afternoon too (but maybe a little more gently)
STG surviving the next 2 weeks. If is only 4 weeks to Chorro. Home & work stress likely to remain high so not sure how best to approach training for it. Suspect I may concentrate on up-down-ups for routes as and when I can, and fingerboard at home too - mentally low stress stuff as it isn't the time to be beating myself up over indoor projects.
MTG at Chorro - never climbed there so don't know the style or grading. Would hope to do a couple of 7s during the week, but honestly I just want to have a nice time!!
LTG Kaly, Sept - I believe that AJM wants me to put down 7c. I'd be happy with 7b+. As Kaly is a coaching course I don't know what the pace will be.
In reply to grubes:
You should have stuck at it; great conditions at Curbar by 3pm.
Full post to follow
> S: Awesome Forcast. Drove to the peak. Rain on the way down then snow then heavy snow which made strines feel quite exciting to drive down. Went to outside. Drove to curbar soaked.
You should have stuck at it; great conditions at Curbar by 3pm.
Full post to follow
In reply to JimmyKay:
Thanks for kicking FC off!
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: 45min FR, 30 min weights & core
T: 1hr 30 climbing on all new traverses at wall - PE
W: 45min FR, 30 min weights & core
T: Rest
F: pm - 1hr 30min PE at wall. Working new traverses. Got Orange both ways (6b+ and 6c?), Blue one way, (6c+?) and working Blue the other way, (7a?)
S: Rest
S: 7hrs walking / climbing on Creagan Corie Cha-no, Cairngorms. Led Anvil Corner, VI 6** and seconded Anvil Gully, IV 4*
Monday morning weight 11sh 11 down from 12 st 2 last week.
Again, pleased with weight loss, and super pleased to lead Anvil Corner - glad I had the bottle to get on VI 6 as the first route of the season and glad it felt ok, (training worked well.) VI 7 feels within my grasp.
Thanks for kicking FC off!
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: 45min FR, 30 min weights & core
T: 1hr 30 climbing on all new traverses at wall - PE
W: 45min FR, 30 min weights & core
T: Rest
F: pm - 1hr 30min PE at wall. Working new traverses. Got Orange both ways (6b+ and 6c?), Blue one way, (6c+?) and working Blue the other way, (7a?)
S: Rest
S: 7hrs walking / climbing on Creagan Corie Cha-no, Cairngorms. Led Anvil Corner, VI 6** and seconded Anvil Gully, IV 4*
Monday morning weight 11sh 11 down from 12 st 2 last week.
Again, pleased with weight loss, and super pleased to lead Anvil Corner - glad I had the bottle to get on VI 6 as the first route of the season and glad it felt ok, (training worked well.) VI 7 feels within my grasp.
In reply to martin_longmuir:
>Still managed a 2 hour core session.
What on earth do you do to keep you going for two hours?!
>Still managed a 2 hour core session.
What on earth do you do to keep you going for two hours?!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Was pissed off had planned a trip to south lakes but saw on the rain radar a massive band of rain coming in. So headed to the peak early.
Got to outside for 10.30ish
drove to the crag for 11.15 very light breeze and nasty clouds coming in
pottered for a bit
back to outside for 12 ish and had lost all psyche.
Home for two.
Was pissed off had planned a trip to south lakes but saw on the rain radar a massive band of rain coming in. So headed to the peak early.
Got to outside for 10.30ish
drove to the crag for 11.15 very light breeze and nasty clouds coming in
pottered for a bit
back to outside for 12 ish and had lost all psyche.
Home for two.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Goals: 7a onsight on Spain trip, 7c/7c+s in fewer than 5 sessions on Yorkshire limestone
Mon: Routes indoors, did 4x4s with Ally, not sure I got the intensity right every time as my grade for that would be around 6c/6c+ but there are only a couple of routes at that grade and the wall was busy.
Wed: indoor routes, careful session given the forthcoming trip but still out some effort in.
Sun: First day in Spain, new crag which was developed fairly recently and doesn't get much traffic. That's my excuse for failing on the 7a I tried, couldn't see the sequence at all and only found a hidden hold after giving up. Rest of day was really frustrating as the guide didn't match the routes (due to new development) so we had no idea what the grades were for the routes we tried. Ended up faffing to the max and started beating myself up about not trying hard enough on the one 7a I did get on.
It's raining today, got to a crag but rain was hitting the rock. Should be somewhere dry tomorrow.
Goals: 7a onsight on Spain trip, 7c/7c+s in fewer than 5 sessions on Yorkshire limestone
Mon: Routes indoors, did 4x4s with Ally, not sure I got the intensity right every time as my grade for that would be around 6c/6c+ but there are only a couple of routes at that grade and the wall was busy.
Wed: indoor routes, careful session given the forthcoming trip but still out some effort in.
Sun: First day in Spain, new crag which was developed fairly recently and doesn't get much traffic. That's my excuse for failing on the 7a I tried, couldn't see the sequence at all and only found a hidden hold after giving up. Rest of day was really frustrating as the guide didn't match the routes (due to new development) so we had no idea what the grades were for the routes we tried. Ended up faffing to the max and started beating myself up about not trying hard enough on the one 7a I did get on.
It's raining today, got to a crag but rain was hitting the rock. Should be somewhere dry tomorrow.
In reply to grubes:
Can't BELIEVE you've not been to Brimham before. Loads of quality problems of all styles. Someone with intimate knowledge of the place helps as it's easy to get lost around the outlying stuff but worth seeking out.
Can't BELIEVE you've not been to Brimham before. Loads of quality problems of all styles. Someone with intimate knowledge of the place helps as it's easy to get lost around the outlying stuff but worth seeking out.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Daytrip to London got in the way a bit this week, and two days down South coming this week too
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
L-MTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?
MTG (By end Jan 2014):
Keep to the plan; double sessions and all!
2x An-cap sessions per week
2x Fingerbaording per week
2x Weight sessions per week
Cave Life High, 7C+
Hatch Life High, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Recovery
- Finish building campus board – gonna need an extra pair of hands to do the final assembly
- Maintain weight – crept up a bit to 76.3kg, but BF constant at 6.7% - guns are looking a bit bigger
The week just gone:
M - Route 4x4’s at AWS – 6c-7a level – good recovery session, but need to up my aerobic level before return to Spain
T - Friends b’day at Brazilian restaurant. 12 different meats consumed – fatty fatty!
W - London day-trip with work. 14hrs door to door. Sole exercise running for train at 7am
T - Fingerboard with 20kg extra; painful hanging that lot from a skinny sport climbing harness. Stretching
F - Gym. Free weights seem much comfortable on shoulders. New PB 4 reps lat pull down @ 110kg.
S - Bouldering at Curbar. Warmed up repeating stuff at Trackside then went up to the edge. Got shut down by Sean’s Arete, 7B? but ended up doing lots of stuff in the 6C-7A+ range before darkness fell.
S - Parisellas; repeat stuff upto 7B+. Felt strong, but top-end PE, and especially session PE was very lacking – need to get stuck in with the an-cap training in coming weeks. Froze tits off doing the excellent “Silence of the Trams” 7B on the way home. Sitter could be a goer in similarly cold conditions to hold the super slopey RH crimp.
Daytrip to London got in the way a bit this week, and two days down South coming this week too
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
L-MTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?
MTG (By end Jan 2014):
Keep to the plan; double sessions and all!
2x An-cap sessions per week
2x Fingerbaording per week
2x Weight sessions per week
Cave Life High, 7C+
Hatch Life High, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Recovery
- Finish building campus board – gonna need an extra pair of hands to do the final assembly
- Maintain weight – crept up a bit to 76.3kg, but BF constant at 6.7% - guns are looking a bit bigger
The week just gone:
M - Route 4x4’s at AWS – 6c-7a level – good recovery session, but need to up my aerobic level before return to Spain
T - Friends b’day at Brazilian restaurant. 12 different meats consumed – fatty fatty!
W - London day-trip with work. 14hrs door to door. Sole exercise running for train at 7am
T - Fingerboard with 20kg extra; painful hanging that lot from a skinny sport climbing harness. Stretching
F - Gym. Free weights seem much comfortable on shoulders. New PB 4 reps lat pull down @ 110kg.
S - Bouldering at Curbar. Warmed up repeating stuff at Trackside then went up to the edge. Got shut down by Sean’s Arete, 7B? but ended up doing lots of stuff in the 6C-7A+ range before darkness fell.
S - Parisellas; repeat stuff upto 7B+. Felt strong, but top-end PE, and especially session PE was very lacking – need to get stuck in with the an-cap training in coming weeks. Froze tits off doing the excellent “Silence of the Trams” 7B on the way home. Sitter could be a goer in similarly cold conditions to hold the super slopey RH crimp.
Post edited at 12:08
In reply to Joughton:
I flashed v6 on the right hand side so yes they are soft.
Left side has just been reset by Tom and I'm impressed. Some good problems and seems to be about right. I'm flashing v4, did the v5's in a few goes but haven't tried any v6 and above yet.
Leading ladder routes are up now. New 7a, b, c and 8a for you to go at.
I flashed v6 on the right hand side so yes they are soft.
Left side has just been reset by Tom and I'm impressed. Some good problems and seems to be about right. I'm flashing v4, did the v5's in a few goes but haven't tried any v6 and above yet.
Leading ladder routes are up now. New 7a, b, c and 8a for you to go at.
In reply to Eagle River:
In my defense I have to drive all the way to almscliff then another 30 mins to get there so I easily get distracted.
A local would of helped.
In my defense I have to drive all the way to almscliff then another 30 mins to get there so I easily get distracted.
A local would of helped.
Post edited at 12:31
In reply to JimmyKay:
Quiet week.
M - Resting.
T - An hour jogging.
W - Climbing outside. More failures on project.
T - Resting (diverticulitis flare up).
F - Resting.
S - Resting.
S - Climbing outside. Warmed up then decked out when about to clip first runner on project due to hold coming off. Landed on arm which is somewhat bruised and sore. Could have been a lot worse as head just missed large and had stone block. Must think about getting a helmet.
Quiet week.
M - Resting.
T - An hour jogging.
W - Climbing outside. More failures on project.
T - Resting (diverticulitis flare up).
F - Resting.
S - Resting.
S - Climbing outside. Warmed up then decked out when about to clip first runner on project due to hold coming off. Landed on arm which is somewhat bruised and sore. Could have been a lot worse as head just missed large and had stone block. Must think about getting a helmet.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Afternoon all.
M: Chest; bench, flat dumbell press, incline flys, dips, tricep pull downs
T: Core; crunches, leg raises
W: Climb indoor; 30 min boulder, routes 6b 6b 7a 7a 6c+ 7a Hard!
T: Shoulders; seated dumbell press, smith press, seated lateral raise, machine lateral raise, bent over cable lateral raise, barbell front raise
F:
S:
S: Climb indoor; 30 min boulder, routes 6a+ 6b 6c+ 6c 7b+ 6c 6c
The climb on Wednesday was good despite the apparent lack of mileage and lowish grades of routes, it was a super hard session.
My favourite route setter at my weeknight wall (warwick uni) had been in over crimbo after his first term at Sheffield Uni, he had clearly learned something from all you hardcore northern types, mainly that all the warwick routes are soft as doodoo. He did his level best to rectify that, perhaps going a bit too far the other way as some of his routes were seriously nails, but it proved to be a great workout, my core was destroyed for the next couple of days.
Shoulder is all good, no complaints at all, elbows seem to be bearing up well with this forearm stretch that I am doing, so it's all good.
I just need the weather to sort it's life out so I can get outside, Portland is mostly underwater at the moment so it's going to be wet till July at this rate.
Afternoon all.
M: Chest; bench, flat dumbell press, incline flys, dips, tricep pull downs
T: Core; crunches, leg raises
W: Climb indoor; 30 min boulder, routes 6b 6b 7a 7a 6c+ 7a Hard!
T: Shoulders; seated dumbell press, smith press, seated lateral raise, machine lateral raise, bent over cable lateral raise, barbell front raise
F:
S:
S: Climb indoor; 30 min boulder, routes 6a+ 6b 6c+ 6c 7b+ 6c 6c
The climb on Wednesday was good despite the apparent lack of mileage and lowish grades of routes, it was a super hard session.
My favourite route setter at my weeknight wall (warwick uni) had been in over crimbo after his first term at Sheffield Uni, he had clearly learned something from all you hardcore northern types, mainly that all the warwick routes are soft as doodoo. He did his level best to rectify that, perhaps going a bit too far the other way as some of his routes were seriously nails, but it proved to be a great workout, my core was destroyed for the next couple of days.
Shoulder is all good, no complaints at all, elbows seem to be bearing up well with this forearm stretch that I am doing, so it's all good.
I just need the weather to sort it's life out so I can get outside, Portland is mostly underwater at the moment so it's going to be wet till July at this rate.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Fat scales say i've dropped 3% body fat and gained 3% muscle. Find that hard to believe in a week and a bit but meh, i'll keep at it and see what happens...
Mon: 28 miles bike
Tues: 28 miles bike, 4.5 mile run
Wed: Moved a van load of furniture (not all by myself, mind) - hard work!
Thurs: Nothing- Drove to work as felt a bit knackered/ lazy.
Fri: 28 miles bike
Sat: Climbing/bouldering for about an hour. A token gesture really.
Sun: Ummmm... A bit of pottering about.
Just about to book another trip to El Chorro in 7 weeks. This time we'll be leaving the wetsuits at home
Must try to shed some blubber before then and climb. Usual story.
Im finding myself quite tired a lot lately. Lack of sleep needs to be resolved!
Fat scales say i've dropped 3% body fat and gained 3% muscle. Find that hard to believe in a week and a bit but meh, i'll keep at it and see what happens...
Mon: 28 miles bike
Tues: 28 miles bike, 4.5 mile run
Wed: Moved a van load of furniture (not all by myself, mind) - hard work!
Thurs: Nothing- Drove to work as felt a bit knackered/ lazy.
Fri: 28 miles bike
Sat: Climbing/bouldering for about an hour. A token gesture really.
Sun: Ummmm... A bit of pottering about.
Just about to book another trip to El Chorro in 7 weeks. This time we'll be leaving the wetsuits at home
Must try to shed some blubber before then and climb. Usual story.
Im finding myself quite tired a lot lately. Lack of sleep needs to be resolved!
Post edited at 13:21
In reply to grubes:
I'm still here !
Totally forgot about last week. Busy moving house and sorting stuff out.
Not much done in Spain. I felt very jaded and tired when I got there. Group dynamics meant we didn't get started until late in the day for the first couple of days. I seem to have become a plastic puller and forgot how to climb on rock and couldn't pull hard for toffee. So buggered off for a day on our own to climb easy stuff.
Slept loads and loads, ate lots of cheese, bit of drinking and eventually got ill which wiped out a day or so.
Felt better by the end but then it was time to come home. Never mind it was a lovely holiday and I feel rested again.
This last week was better.
2 bouldering sessions. First not too hard. Lots of flashing up to soft v6.
2nd a bit more intense working v5's. Got them all done (4) and now need to start on the v6's.
Also did 4 foot on campus sessions. Big rungs to start. Much more intense than my home set up was. I'm horizontal by the time I'm at the bottom. Failure seems to happen about 1m 15s. I feel worked after it for sure and can do a session in half an hr. Perfect for before or after work. It really worked for me last time. I'm going to move onto the middle rungs tomorrow and see how that goes.
I need to put some serious effort in now. I work at a wall and have 3 out of 4 weekends kid free. If I don't get working on an 8a this year there may never be a better time.
I'm still here !
Totally forgot about last week. Busy moving house and sorting stuff out.
Not much done in Spain. I felt very jaded and tired when I got there. Group dynamics meant we didn't get started until late in the day for the first couple of days. I seem to have become a plastic puller and forgot how to climb on rock and couldn't pull hard for toffee. So buggered off for a day on our own to climb easy stuff.
Slept loads and loads, ate lots of cheese, bit of drinking and eventually got ill which wiped out a day or so.
Felt better by the end but then it was time to come home. Never mind it was a lovely holiday and I feel rested again.
This last week was better.
2 bouldering sessions. First not too hard. Lots of flashing up to soft v6.
2nd a bit more intense working v5's. Got them all done (4) and now need to start on the v6's.
Also did 4 foot on campus sessions. Big rungs to start. Much more intense than my home set up was. I'm horizontal by the time I'm at the bottom. Failure seems to happen about 1m 15s. I feel worked after it for sure and can do a session in half an hr. Perfect for before or after work. It really worked for me last time. I'm going to move onto the middle rungs tomorrow and see how that goes.
I need to put some serious effort in now. I work at a wall and have 3 out of 4 weekends kid free. If I don't get working on an 8a this year there may never be a better time.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Thanks for getting it started! A bit of a summary post for me, with new goals for 2014. Sorry for the length, you don't have to read it all!
M-F - Snowboarding in Avoriaz! Conditions were great, but high avalanche risk, so not much (any really) off-piste. Very warm all week, so a bit slushy lower down by the end. Friday cut short to get back on the coach home.
S - Nothing
S - Nothing
2013 summary
Sport: Good progress: made it from first 7a last Christmas to 7b+ in November. Largely driven by tactical improvements and "latent underachievement" (Alex's words) but I've probably got a bit stronger too! I got 7b in a session and the 7b+ took me 3 sessions, and is considered high in the grade, so I expect I've got a little way to go yet.
Trad: Less obvious progress, but a good year. I climbed E3 6a for the first time (previously done E3 5c), and a handful of E4s (though none of them were solid-at-the-grade onsights). The real highlights were the long and/or adventurous routes: Dreadnought, Mercury Direct and The Equator all stand out. I expect redpointing sport routes has helped with my ability to do hard moves, but not my ability to do them onsight!
Winter: My first Scottish winter season went very well. I had a great long weekend on the Ben, climbing Orion Direct, Tower Ridge and Point 5 on consecutive days: it doesn't get much better than that! At the other end of the spectrum, got a good spanking Easter weekend in North Wales. Fell from Cascade and retreated from Western Gully: not all grade V routes are equal...
Cardio (running/swimming): A disappointing year for my running, the summer and autumn being a long series of layoffs from over-training injuries. I bailed out of the Bristol half and the Snowdonia marathon, which I'd been looking forward to all year. Never mind, I think I'm back on the up now, and have learnt a lot about how hard (not) to push it. I'm not entering the marathon again this year, so I can build up a decent base without any pressure. Partly as a result of running injuries, I joined a swimming club and started training again!
Short term goals (January)
Just get back into my usual training load after about 3 weeks of Christmas/New Year/snowboarding.
Make a training plan for the medium-term. Talk to my swimming coach to fit into his training cycles as much as possible.
Medium term goals (March/April)
Some winter climbing. It's so weather- and conditions-dependent that I don't really want to be more specific than that.
Stick to the training plan that I finalise this month with the intention of being on good form for the Cheddar summer season (April-June).
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Things that could scupper my chances of achieving this: 1) injury; 2) an extended research visit somewhere abroad; 3) injury; 4) really good weather enticing me out on trad all summer; 5) injury; 6) really crappy weather meaning I barely get out at all
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s)
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. Only 416km to beat, so should be fairly easy.
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr
Other: Plan for the end of my PhD. Finishing at Christmas then going on an extended road-trip early 2015 would be ideal.
Thanks for getting it started! A bit of a summary post for me, with new goals for 2014. Sorry for the length, you don't have to read it all!
M-F - Snowboarding in Avoriaz! Conditions were great, but high avalanche risk, so not much (any really) off-piste. Very warm all week, so a bit slushy lower down by the end. Friday cut short to get back on the coach home.
S - Nothing
S - Nothing
2013 summary
Sport: Good progress: made it from first 7a last Christmas to 7b+ in November. Largely driven by tactical improvements and "latent underachievement" (Alex's words) but I've probably got a bit stronger too! I got 7b in a session and the 7b+ took me 3 sessions, and is considered high in the grade, so I expect I've got a little way to go yet.
Trad: Less obvious progress, but a good year. I climbed E3 6a for the first time (previously done E3 5c), and a handful of E4s (though none of them were solid-at-the-grade onsights). The real highlights were the long and/or adventurous routes: Dreadnought, Mercury Direct and The Equator all stand out. I expect redpointing sport routes has helped with my ability to do hard moves, but not my ability to do them onsight!
Winter: My first Scottish winter season went very well. I had a great long weekend on the Ben, climbing Orion Direct, Tower Ridge and Point 5 on consecutive days: it doesn't get much better than that! At the other end of the spectrum, got a good spanking Easter weekend in North Wales. Fell from Cascade and retreated from Western Gully: not all grade V routes are equal...
Cardio (running/swimming): A disappointing year for my running, the summer and autumn being a long series of layoffs from over-training injuries. I bailed out of the Bristol half and the Snowdonia marathon, which I'd been looking forward to all year. Never mind, I think I'm back on the up now, and have learnt a lot about how hard (not) to push it. I'm not entering the marathon again this year, so I can build up a decent base without any pressure. Partly as a result of running injuries, I joined a swimming club and started training again!
Short term goals (January)
Just get back into my usual training load after about 3 weeks of Christmas/New Year/snowboarding.
Make a training plan for the medium-term. Talk to my swimming coach to fit into his training cycles as much as possible.
Medium term goals (March/April)
Some winter climbing. It's so weather- and conditions-dependent that I don't really want to be more specific than that.
Stick to the training plan that I finalise this month with the intention of being on good form for the Cheddar summer season (April-June).
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Things that could scupper my chances of achieving this: 1) injury; 2) an extended research visit somewhere abroad; 3) injury; 4) really good weather enticing me out on trad all summer; 5) injury; 6) really crappy weather meaning I barely get out at all
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s)
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. Only 416km to beat, so should be fairly easy.
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr
Other: Plan for the end of my PhD. Finishing at Christmas then going on an extended road-trip early 2015 would be ideal.
In reply to Nick Russell and biscuit:
8a club is going strong for this year then, is there a prize for the first person to acheive it?
8a club is going strong for this year then, is there a prize for the first person to acheive it?
In reply to Dandan:
We each donate a quickdraw, winner gets the set? :p
> is there a prize for the first person to acheive it?
We each donate a quickdraw, winner gets the set? :p
In reply to Nick Russell:
Very jealous of that ticklist for a single weekend - keen to do something similar myself - anyone else from Manchester/NW keen?
Sounds familiar! you could well have retreated off the threads/slings/tat we left behind two years before?
We retreated from the crux slab in awkward verglas conditions. I understand it's easy (tech 4 or 5) if banked out with ice, and a bit spicy as a mixed pitch on small rock edges (tech 7 has been mentioned).
Verglas = no gear and no holds!
> Winter: My first Scottish winter season went very well. I had a great long weekend on the Ben, climbing Orion Direct, Tower Ridge and Point 5 on consecutive days: it doesn't get much better than that!
Very jealous of that ticklist for a single weekend - keen to do something similar myself - anyone else from Manchester/NW keen?
> At the other end of the spectrum, got a good spanking Easter weekend in North Wales. Fell from Cascade and retreated from Western Gully: not all grade V routes are equal...
Sounds familiar! you could well have retreated off the threads/slings/tat we left behind two years before?
We retreated from the crux slab in awkward verglas conditions. I understand it's easy (tech 4 or 5) if banked out with ice, and a bit spicy as a mixed pitch on small rock edges (tech 7 has been mentioned).
Verglas = no gear and no holds!
In reply to Eagle River:
A local might help with not getting lost, but on the other hand, they might point him at Happy Days, telling him it's "only V4"!
> Can't BELIEVE you've not been to Brimham before. Loads of quality problems of all styles. Someone with intimate knowledge of the place helps as it's easy to get lost around the outlying stuff but worth seeking out.
A local might help with not getting lost, but on the other hand, they might point him at Happy Days, telling him it's "only V4"!
In reply to JimmyKay:
cheers jimmy
last week
rest day on monday
-4x turbo trainer in garage
-1x hill run- ingleborough
-1x hilly road bike ride
-2x weight training workouts including shed loads of pull ups.. weighted and none weighted (about 160-180 reps for each workout. used a 17lb dumbell for teyh wieghted ones. using a bar with a climbing rooe thru it now.. swings around a bit so have to maintain form)
-4 or 5x core.. core feels reaklly strong.. abs seem more developed.. is this the boudlering..lower body fat at the mo? don't know
-2x boudering in garage.. stuff like 4 sets of 4x4 after working power for half an hour. sessions take about 1.5-2 hours.. its addictive.
-2x kendal.. felt tired from lack of sleep all week but somehting clicked with how i was moving this week.. smearing more with feet indoors.. movement felt great
two more days of training to go before rest day as want to have wednesdays as rest days .. to help get the most out of my long weekends
PPG
cheers jimmy
last week
rest day on monday
-4x turbo trainer in garage
-1x hill run- ingleborough
-1x hilly road bike ride
-2x weight training workouts including shed loads of pull ups.. weighted and none weighted (about 160-180 reps for each workout. used a 17lb dumbell for teyh wieghted ones. using a bar with a climbing rooe thru it now.. swings around a bit so have to maintain form)
-4 or 5x core.. core feels reaklly strong.. abs seem more developed.. is this the boudlering..lower body fat at the mo? don't know
-2x boudering in garage.. stuff like 4 sets of 4x4 after working power for half an hour. sessions take about 1.5-2 hours.. its addictive.
-2x kendal.. felt tired from lack of sleep all week but somehting clicked with how i was moving this week.. smearing more with feet indoors.. movement felt great
two more days of training to go before rest day as want to have wednesdays as rest days .. to help get the most out of my long weekends
PPG
In reply to Ally Smith:
Actually, we didn't even get that far. There was a massive powder cone at the top of the first main pitch, just below the cam belay under the (first?) roof. I spend a while digging at it, made a couple of metre's progress forwards, about 10cm upwards! All the while being doused in spindrift from above. Altogether too much snow, not enough ice. If all that powder consolidated a couple of days later I expect it would have been in excellent condition!
Two of our abseils were off in-situ tat, so maybe it was yours...
> We retreated from the crux slab in awkward verglas conditions.
Actually, we didn't even get that far. There was a massive powder cone at the top of the first main pitch, just below the cam belay under the (first?) roof. I spend a while digging at it, made a couple of metre's progress forwards, about 10cm upwards! All the while being doused in spindrift from above. Altogether too much snow, not enough ice. If all that powder consolidated a couple of days later I expect it would have been in excellent condition!
Two of our abseils were off in-situ tat, so maybe it was yours...
In reply to Ally Smith:
Actually yes - but not if you insist on doing Austrian laps on them
> - anyone else from Manchester/NW keen?
Actually yes - but not if you insist on doing Austrian laps on them
Post edited at 16:05
Just found this
http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/breaking-a-climbing-record-the-nose-par...
I think Staffs NIAD should go on my 2014 goals list!
http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/breaking-a-climbing-record-the-nose-par...
I think Staffs NIAD should go on my 2014 goals list!
In reply to Dandan:
Smugness ?
> 8a club is going strong for this year then, is there a prize for the first person to acheive it?
Smugness ?
In reply to biscuit: I'd agree with that, the grades definitely feel more realistic on the left! I.e having to work hard on V5s and 6s.
I tried the easier leading ladder routes today, onsights everything up to 7a, but the last move on the 7b is an absolute heartbreaker, I still can't see a way to do it! 7c looks like it might go though.
I'd also like to add myself to the 8a club, I'm hoping I might get the chance to have some redpoint attempts at an 8a, but it would have to go in two sessions or less ideally. Looking at things at Maki, or Poema Roca perhaps.
I tried the easier leading ladder routes today, onsights everything up to 7a, but the last move on the 7b is an absolute heartbreaker, I still can't see a way to do it! 7c looks like it might go though.
I'd also like to add myself to the 8a club, I'm hoping I might get the chance to have some redpoint attempts at an 8a, but it would have to go in two sessions or less ideally. Looking at things at Maki, or Poema Roca perhaps.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Blimey !
No, that's my prize if I get to 8a this year. I get to be smug
It's the only reason I'm trying.
Blimey !
No, that's my prize if I get to 8a this year. I get to be smug
It's the only reason I'm trying.
In reply to Joughton:
Bugger ! I wanted to try that 7b. Well I still will anyway.
I was reading the setting guidelines the other day. The routes are supposed to get progressively more difficult as they get higher, but clipping the chains is not to be the crux.
So I guess he's taken them literally.
Bugger ! I wanted to try that 7b. Well I still will anyway.
I was reading the setting guidelines the other day. The routes are supposed to get progressively more difficult as they get higher, but clipping the chains is not to be the crux.
So I guess he's taken them literally.
In reply to Joughton:
The only thing stopping you doing an 8a is the fact that you've not tried one yet! Two sessions my arse, two attempts max!
The only thing stopping you doing an 8a is the fact that you've not tried one yet! Two sessions my arse, two attempts max!
In reply to JimmyKay:
Lots of running this week ~ 50 miles.
M - track session. 600 then 300 x 6. All very consistent barring the last one where I ran quicker.
T - bouldering for 90mins. 19:15ish 5k.
W - strava reckons 1:29:03 for half marathon. Probably about 2 mins out knowing strava. But given the traffic stupidly heavy rain and long thermals I was pretty happy. Probably run it a good 5 minutes faster than that in summer at least. Put loads of hills in this one.
T - track session. Easy, 10x300
F - indoor boulders, only 3 problems I haven't climbed in the centre at the moment. Try and tick them all off before they change.
S - XC race. 5.2miles in 6:30 min/miles
S - crazy run. 18miles. Slow but ruined my legs. Not doing anything that long again. 8:10min/mile. Kudos to Iain to running 50 milers!!
Lots of running this week ~ 50 miles.
M - track session. 600 then 300 x 6. All very consistent barring the last one where I ran quicker.
T - bouldering for 90mins. 19:15ish 5k.
W - strava reckons 1:29:03 for half marathon. Probably about 2 mins out knowing strava. But given the traffic stupidly heavy rain and long thermals I was pretty happy. Probably run it a good 5 minutes faster than that in summer at least. Put loads of hills in this one.
T - track session. Easy, 10x300
F - indoor boulders, only 3 problems I haven't climbed in the centre at the moment. Try and tick them all off before they change.
S - XC race. 5.2miles in 6:30 min/miles
S - crazy run. 18miles. Slow but ruined my legs. Not doing anything that long again. 8:10min/mile. Kudos to Iain to running 50 milers!!
In reply to JimmyKay:
Weight: 140 lbs
Training time this week: 11hrs
MTB distance: 140km
M: 1hr mtb
T: 1:45hr mtb
W: 30min bouldering // 20min walk // 10min turbo spinout
T: 1hr walk at The Roaches (practicing placing gear)
F: 1.45hr mtb
S: 1.45hr mtb
S: 2.40hr mtb (Cannock Chase plus local loop)
Weight: 140 lbs
Training time this week: 11hrs
MTB distance: 140km
M: 1hr mtb
T: 1:45hr mtb
W: 30min bouldering // 20min walk // 10min turbo spinout
T: 1hr walk at The Roaches (practicing placing gear)
F: 1.45hr mtb
S: 1.45hr mtb
S: 2.40hr mtb (Cannock Chase plus local loop)
In reply to biscuit: Well the annoying thing is it's actually quite easy to reach the top of the wall from the last move, it just seems impossible to reach the last hold! If anyone manages it I'd be interested to hear the beta.
ER - I have tried one! It was just a nasty crimpy thing in Cheedale... I'll definitely try at least one, I'll just have to see how it feels... and don't let a dodgy first day get you frustrated, I always climb badly on the first day on different rock, especially after months of indoors! Good luck for the rest of the trip.
ER - I have tried one! It was just a nasty crimpy thing in Cheedale... I'll definitely try at least one, I'll just have to see how it feels... and don't let a dodgy first day get you frustrated, I always climb badly on the first day on different rock, especially after months of indoors! Good luck for the rest of the trip.
In reply to biscuit:
One big bag of smugness for the 8a club winner then. Also the winner has to start every future fit club post with 'When I won the 8a club competition...'
I'm wondering if there is anything in Cheddar that might be a good idea to try instead of the limited choice on Portland, i've spent some time on Right Hand Man on the remnant but it's a real finger shredder so projecting it is a slow process! Are there any other good options in the gorge?
One big bag of smugness for the 8a club winner then. Also the winner has to start every future fit club post with 'When I won the 8a club competition...'
I'm wondering if there is anything in Cheddar that might be a good idea to try instead of the limited choice on Portland, i've spent some time on Right Hand Man on the remnant but it's a real finger shredder so projecting it is a slow process! Are there any other good options in the gorge?
In reply to Dandan:
This sounds more like a forfeit than a prize!
I'm not that familiar with hard stuff in Cheddar (yet), AJM is likely to have some ideas. If you want a Cheddar partner, just let me know.
> the winner has to start every future fit club post with 'When I won the 8a club competition...'
This sounds more like a forfeit than a prize!
> Are there any other good options in the gorge?
I'm not that familiar with hard stuff in Cheddar (yet), AJM is likely to have some ideas. If you want a Cheddar partner, just let me know.
In reply to seankenny:
I just suffer the next day lol!!
No really I just keep pushing on and try not to stop. Loud music and some grunting and groaning also accompany.
I just suffer the next day lol!!
No really I just keep pushing on and try not to stop. Loud music and some grunting and groaning also accompany.
In reply to JimmyKay: Cheers Jimmy!
Had a great week this week. Major breakthrough on the indoor routes and a boiling hot day out at Porth Ysgo on the weekend!
Monday: Lunch gym session:
6 x 8 Offset Pullups (Alternate Hands)
10 Dips
10 Tricep Curls
3 x 10 Bicep Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Shoulder Flys
3 x 10 Lunges (35kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Evening:
30 Mins Aerocap
Tuesday: Indoor Bouldering:
3 x V0-V1
3 x V2-V3
5 x V3-V4
2 x V5-V7
1 x V7 (2nd go, this was soft and not V7)
Tried a couple of other V7's and some hard V6.
Finished off on some roof problems and got pumped. While pumped I jumped on the Piscobloc pumpy 6c route and managed it with ease (Happy with this!).
Thumb Weights:
All with left & right hand:
10kg x 10
12kg x 10
15kg x 8
18kg x 5
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Indoor Routes:
20 routes in total, did my nemesis the 6c+ roof 5 times!
5, 5+, 6a, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6c+, 6c+
6c+, 6c+, 6c+, 6c+, 6b+, 6b+, 6b, 6a, 5+, 5+
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Porth Ysgo:
The Ysgo Flange - V2
The Ysgo Flange (Direct) - V3/4
Truth - V1
Higginson's Scar - V4 (One of the best!)
Incredible Shaking Man - V3
Perrin's Crack - V2
Here Comes The Sun - V2 (Highball!)
Closer - V3
The Ysgo Crack - V1
Latched the big move on Jawbreaker (V5) 4 times but couldn't get the heel on. Skin was trashed, need to start that end of the beach first next time.
Sunday: Rest - Wanted to do aerocap but skin completely gone.
Had a great week this week. Major breakthrough on the indoor routes and a boiling hot day out at Porth Ysgo on the weekend!
Monday: Lunch gym session:
6 x 8 Offset Pullups (Alternate Hands)
10 Dips
10 Tricep Curls
3 x 10 Bicep Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Shoulder Flys
3 x 10 Lunges (35kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Evening:
30 Mins Aerocap
Tuesday: Indoor Bouldering:
3 x V0-V1
3 x V2-V3
5 x V3-V4
2 x V5-V7
1 x V7 (2nd go, this was soft and not V7)
Tried a couple of other V7's and some hard V6.
Finished off on some roof problems and got pumped. While pumped I jumped on the Piscobloc pumpy 6c route and managed it with ease (Happy with this!).
Thumb Weights:
All with left & right hand:
10kg x 10
12kg x 10
15kg x 8
18kg x 5
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Indoor Routes:
20 routes in total, did my nemesis the 6c+ roof 5 times!
5, 5+, 6a, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6c+, 6c+
6c+, 6c+, 6c+, 6c+, 6b+, 6b+, 6b, 6a, 5+, 5+
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Porth Ysgo:
The Ysgo Flange - V2
The Ysgo Flange (Direct) - V3/4
Truth - V1
Higginson's Scar - V4 (One of the best!)
Incredible Shaking Man - V3
Perrin's Crack - V2
Here Comes The Sun - V2 (Highball!)
Closer - V3
The Ysgo Crack - V1
Latched the big move on Jawbreaker (V5) 4 times but couldn't get the heel on. Skin was trashed, need to start that end of the beach first next time.
Sunday: Rest - Wanted to do aerocap but skin completely gone.
In reply to Luke Owens:
nice tick list
Could you not lock the right hand on the good flatty and match (footless) then get a toe on or try get a toe instead of heel? The picture looked there was plenty of room to hand foot match?
Think I did this from one hand on second hold other on the first but I failed on the first move. slapping to the flatty
nice tick list
> Latched the big move on Jawbreaker (V5) 4 times but couldn't get the heel on. Skin was trashed, need to start that end of the beach first next time.
Could you not lock the right hand on the good flatty and match (footless) then get a toe on or try get a toe instead of heel? The picture looked there was plenty of room to hand foot match?
Think I did this from one hand on second hold other on the first but I failed on the first move. slapping to the flatty
Post edited at 11:00
In reply to grubes:
As the first move is a footless dyno, it's hard to get the right place on the right hand edge. It would be a very hard match with no feet. I did it from a stand a few times and the heel is definitely the way for me, keeps you tucked in.
I think the main problem was zero skin and end of session tiredness. I'm happy to get V5's in session when fresh so a powerful one at the end of the day was optimistic.
The problem itself is amazing and a pure bouldering style, really is a must do classic!
As the first move is a footless dyno, it's hard to get the right place on the right hand edge. It would be a very hard match with no feet. I did it from a stand a few times and the heel is definitely the way for me, keeps you tucked in.
I think the main problem was zero skin and end of session tiredness. I'm happy to get V5's in session when fresh so a powerful one at the end of the day was optimistic.
The problem itself is amazing and a pure bouldering style, really is a must do classic!
In reply to Luke Owens:
I'll chuck up some stats later on if no one else is going to do them. Bit late now tho.
I'll be putting this coming weekend's post up.
I'll chuck up some stats later on if no one else is going to do them. Bit late now tho.
I'll be putting this coming weekend's post up.
Post edited at 13:12
In reply to Joughton:
Just seen ian vickers do it.
Looked easy
Just seen ian vickers do it.
Looked easy
> Well the annoying thing is it's actually quite easy to reach the top of the wall from the last move, it just seems impossible to reach the last hold! If anyone manages it I'd be interested to hear the beta.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Right hand man was the one I tried. Of what I know of the others:
- that tufa on the tsunami is meant to be soft but is the first thing to seep if it rains
- I don't know about the wave ones, but check logbooks or 8a.nu, I think some are regarded as soft/overgraded
- if you're strong enough to do wrist business (7c+ But basically fb7B I'm told) you could get the tick by doing just say no and finishing up the top of homegrown
- heard good things about the right hand exit to shadow walker, Lion Sleeps Tonight
- heard not much about Jihadi but I think its hard
- of the Brean ones, from what I've heard, the only one that's actually definitely 8a is milky bar kid which you can work up to incrementally but you could also spend a while falling off the top on. The storm warning variation eliminate is very good but I think was originally given a split grade. Do it cos its good though. I wouldn't have counted it had I finished it but others have done. From what Ally tells me black snake moan is 7c/+.
- academic is supposed to be soft, good one if you're boulder strong, 2 boulders with a shakeout in between. First one maybe V5/6? Very thin slab/wall traverse. I could do all the moves and could see myself linking it. Second boulder harder, I couldn't fathom the move after the deep drop knee.
Can't really think of many others.
All going well so far, except I went so big yesterday I fell off the warmup today with screamingly sore hands. Getting mileage in, getting fit, onsighting going well, pushing the envelope.
> I'm not that familiar with hard stuff in Cheddar (yet), AJM is likely to have some ideas. If you want a Cheddar partner, just let me know.
Right hand man was the one I tried. Of what I know of the others:
- that tufa on the tsunami is meant to be soft but is the first thing to seep if it rains
- I don't know about the wave ones, but check logbooks or 8a.nu, I think some are regarded as soft/overgraded
- if you're strong enough to do wrist business (7c+ But basically fb7B I'm told) you could get the tick by doing just say no and finishing up the top of homegrown
- heard good things about the right hand exit to shadow walker, Lion Sleeps Tonight
- heard not much about Jihadi but I think its hard
- of the Brean ones, from what I've heard, the only one that's actually definitely 8a is milky bar kid which you can work up to incrementally but you could also spend a while falling off the top on. The storm warning variation eliminate is very good but I think was originally given a split grade. Do it cos its good though. I wouldn't have counted it had I finished it but others have done. From what Ally tells me black snake moan is 7c/+.
- academic is supposed to be soft, good one if you're boulder strong, 2 boulders with a shakeout in between. First one maybe V5/6? Very thin slab/wall traverse. I could do all the moves and could see myself linking it. Second boulder harder, I couldn't fathom the move after the deep drop knee.
Can't really think of many others.
All going well so far, except I went so big yesterday I fell off the warmup today with screamingly sore hands. Getting mileage in, getting fit, onsighting going well, pushing the envelope.
In reply to AJM:
Good summary Andy.
Jihadi felt 8a+ when i bolted it, but Pickford smashed it in fairly quick order and gave it 8a; probably finger size dependent? Chubby fingers making the pocket move considerably harder?
Milky Bar Kid feel like proper 8a (i.e. not a Brean soft-touch)
Bursting the Wave is another finger size dependent route - I thought 8a with my sequence and chubby fingers.
Fornicator Simulator is a soft one too; body tension boulder around the roof, then 7a+ish to the top. Good route though and a great atmospheric setting.
Good summary Andy.
Jihadi felt 8a+ when i bolted it, but Pickford smashed it in fairly quick order and gave it 8a; probably finger size dependent? Chubby fingers making the pocket move considerably harder?
Milky Bar Kid feel like proper 8a (i.e. not a Brean soft-touch)
Bursting the Wave is another finger size dependent route - I thought 8a with my sequence and chubby fingers.
Fornicator Simulator is a soft one too; body tension boulder around the roof, then 7a+ish to the top. Good route though and a great atmospheric setting.
In reply to JimmyKay:
After a long time away I'd like to jump back in please....
last two weeks:
M: am - 45min steady run 6/7M
Tu: am - Grass session 2x2min,(1min recovery), 4x1min (1min rec), 5x45seconds (45sec rec), 6x30sec (30sec rec). 10M total including warm-up and cool-down. really tired was out the back.
W: am - 45min easy run 6M
Th: pm - 60:23 run on road 9M feeling better
F: am - easy run to work 19mins pm - run home easy 5M total
Sa: am - easy run 35min + strides 5M
Su: County XC Champs. 12K in 39:42 8th. Pleased as strong field and although I wasn't able to go with the pace early on, finished strong. 11M Total
53M Total for the week. Pleased with county champs and hopefully have qualified to represent the county at the Inter-counties in March.
M: am - run to work easy 28:51 pm - run home 53:13 12M total
Tu: am - run to work 36:33 pm - run home, going well at the end 13M total
W: am - easy jog to work pm - Road Session: 15min hard (3min rec), 10min hard (3min rec), 8x70secs (50secs rec). Averaged about 5:10-5:15's on a hilly loop so quite pleased.11/12M total
Th: am - easy jog to work pm - 59mins steady 10M total
F: pm - 20mins easy + strides 2/3M
Sa: XC League race ~5.2M in 28:07 6th. Solid performance got out a bit better than last week. 9M total
Su: am - 14M easy in 1:43:45 - cold!
75M Total for the week. Another good week and race. Need to hold it together now for the south of England champs at the end of Jan.
Will post up some goals next week.
After a long time away I'd like to jump back in please....
last two weeks:
M: am - 45min steady run 6/7M
Tu: am - Grass session 2x2min,(1min recovery), 4x1min (1min rec), 5x45seconds (45sec rec), 6x30sec (30sec rec). 10M total including warm-up and cool-down. really tired was out the back.
W: am - 45min easy run 6M
Th: pm - 60:23 run on road 9M feeling better
F: am - easy run to work 19mins pm - run home easy 5M total
Sa: am - easy run 35min + strides 5M
Su: County XC Champs. 12K in 39:42 8th. Pleased as strong field and although I wasn't able to go with the pace early on, finished strong. 11M Total
53M Total for the week. Pleased with county champs and hopefully have qualified to represent the county at the Inter-counties in March.
M: am - run to work easy 28:51 pm - run home 53:13 12M total
Tu: am - run to work 36:33 pm - run home, going well at the end 13M total
W: am - easy jog to work pm - Road Session: 15min hard (3min rec), 10min hard (3min rec), 8x70secs (50secs rec). Averaged about 5:10-5:15's on a hilly loop so quite pleased.11/12M total
Th: am - easy jog to work pm - 59mins steady 10M total
F: pm - 20mins easy + strides 2/3M
Sa: XC League race ~5.2M in 28:07 6th. Solid performance got out a bit better than last week. 9M total
Su: am - 14M easy in 1:43:45 - cold!
75M Total for the week. Another good week and race. Need to hold it together now for the south of England champs at the end of Jan.
Will post up some goals next week.
In reply to Humperdink:
That's some really impressive running. The race in Halesowen was tough. IT took me 46minutes! Great effort finishing 6th in last weekends run. I really liked that course. I was a 144 places back and have a lot of work to do. I see you guys and it inspires me to put my trainers on in this horrible weather at the moment.
That's some really impressive running. The race in Halesowen was tough. IT took me 46minutes! Great effort finishing 6th in last weekends run. I really liked that course. I was a 144 places back and have a lot of work to do. I see you guys and it inspires me to put my trainers on in this horrible weather at the moment.
In reply to AJM:
Yeah, Spacehunter Wall looks great! I think I'll check that one out first...
> Can't believe I forgot fornicator simulator. Doh. Looks superb up there.
Yeah, Spacehunter Wall looks great! I think I'll check that one out first...
In reply to Nick Russell:
I think the only reason I wrote that one off was that it wasn't a plausible after work venue for me, being up at the top of the gorge and all, and the grade spectrum isn't as wide as on remnant/lion or elsewhere. When I get back, when it might be less of a siege (or perhaps more, since I'll be very fit but won't have pulled a hard move all year), it would be one of the ones I'd want to go back for a look at.
I think the only reason I wrote that one off was that it wasn't a plausible after work venue for me, being up at the top of the gorge and all, and the grade spectrum isn't as wide as on remnant/lion or elsewhere. When I get back, when it might be less of a siege (or perhaps more, since I'll be very fit but won't have pulled a hard move all year), it would be one of the ones I'd want to go back for a look at.
In reply to biscuit: Id expect him too, I'm assuming he set the thing! You can just tell by the weirdness and abnormally high foot, did you happen to try it?
In reply to JimmyKay:
Thanks Jimmy - sorry for the late post, not really sure what the excuse is but sure there is one somewhere!
M - nothing
T - Biscuit factory - felt like I was getting back into things. Didn't actually manage to tick much but tried hard on things (this seems to be falling into a pattern...)
W - nothing
T - ran in to work I think...
F - routes at Reach - some serious undergrading going on on some pretty fun, bouldery routes - really good power endurnace session which made me realise that I need to do more power endurance... running out of steam a couple of moves short
S - nothing (lots of cooking)
S - 45min gentle run
Thanks Jimmy - sorry for the late post, not really sure what the excuse is but sure there is one somewhere!
M - nothing
T - Biscuit factory - felt like I was getting back into things. Didn't actually manage to tick much but tried hard on things (this seems to be falling into a pattern...)
W - nothing
T - ran in to work I think...
F - routes at Reach - some serious undergrading going on on some pretty fun, bouldery routes - really good power endurnace session which made me realise that I need to do more power endurance... running out of steam a couple of moves short
S - nothing (lots of cooking)
S - 45min gentle run
In reply to JimmyKay:
Also been trying to set some goals for this year, but its a bit hard at the moment as I'm not sure what I'm going to end up doing - may end up doing more trad, or more sport, or less climbing altogether :-S So,
My main goal I think is to climb 7c. If I end up doing a lot of trad, then I'd like to get a couple of E2s finally under my belt, but if I don't do a lot of trad, I'm not going to stress about this.
I have quite a few more life related goals, the main one being to try and get a better work-life balance - I have been making progress on this already
Other than that, I'll probably set goals for specific trips I end up going on and use the time in between to work to those.
Also been trying to set some goals for this year, but its a bit hard at the moment as I'm not sure what I'm going to end up doing - may end up doing more trad, or more sport, or less climbing altogether :-S So,
My main goal I think is to climb 7c. If I end up doing a lot of trad, then I'd like to get a couple of E2s finally under my belt, but if I don't do a lot of trad, I'm not going to stress about this.
I have quite a few more life related goals, the main one being to try and get a better work-life balance - I have been making progress on this already
Other than that, I'll probably set goals for specific trips I end up going on and use the time in between to work to those.
Well, the stats don't seem to have appeared so here goes...
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (355) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=574264
mbh is speeding up the running. I've been surprised in the past at just how much faster I can go on the flat. Think of all the hills you normally do as "speed training in disguise"
Double update from mrchewy, mostly spent in Wales lamenting the poor weather (indoors and out!) Sounds like a good day soloing.
Eagle River gets over a long-running cold and gets back on the wall. Have you got any session fitness back yet?
mattrm has some ambitious plans for 5 yoga sessions per week!
Two weeks from Sankey. Plenty of running over Christmas! Has the skin thickened up more for climbing?
hms does some impressive routes mileage! I expect you have enough experience to know not to let a few sandbags at an unfamiliar wall get you down!
JimmyKay toughs out some rough conditions for parkrun (I thought these were on Saturdays?) and XC
Ali bakes an impressive gingerbread house (complete with a witch?) but frustrated by low finger strength. Most of us will feel that after a week or two off - it comes back quickly!
The rain doesn't put Joughton off climbing at Malham! Gets some decent indoor training in too. (I found the fingerboard fairly boring until I'd been doing it for long enough to track my progress a bit.)
Tyler has a varied week of bouldering, running, travelling and Menu del Dia.
Luke Owens gets started on an aerobic base. Do you reckon you'll get back to tick that 7A boulder in Ogwen?
AndrewW keeps the fat club going
pork pie girl seems to be struggling to manage the new rest-day regime... I'm going to be very jealous every time you mention that wall in your garage!
grubes is back from 2 weeks in Font. Sounds like you had a good time, and plenty of goals ticked!
Ally Smith reports on a very successful trip to Spain, good work!
Nomics4sale also spent New year in Spain! Sounds like some good routes, and lots of ascent on the runs.
maria85 reveals herself as another Xmas day runner. Sorry to hear about your mate's ankle
Jamming Dodger had a good time in Spain, including CHEESE!!! Chorro's a good place.
Dandan82 is having success with elbow rehab/maintenance. Definitely good to keep that under control.
Welcome to Si Cox. Are you keeping up with the four wall sessions/week?
Exile had a successful week on various fronts.
RM199 managed to get in some winter climbing! From what I hear it was more like swimming at that time, with the amount of powder.
Nick Russell tried to run off the NYE booze, only to spend most of the race sliding around on his arse.
IainRUK is back to running. Who else would call 90-100miles/week "normal"?
stevemarkperry gets out on the mountain bike. Must have been plenty muddy if the weather was anything like what we had.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (355) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=574264
mbh is speeding up the running. I've been surprised in the past at just how much faster I can go on the flat. Think of all the hills you normally do as "speed training in disguise"
Double update from mrchewy, mostly spent in Wales lamenting the poor weather (indoors and out!) Sounds like a good day soloing.
Eagle River gets over a long-running cold and gets back on the wall. Have you got any session fitness back yet?
mattrm has some ambitious plans for 5 yoga sessions per week!
Two weeks from Sankey. Plenty of running over Christmas! Has the skin thickened up more for climbing?
hms does some impressive routes mileage! I expect you have enough experience to know not to let a few sandbags at an unfamiliar wall get you down!
JimmyKay toughs out some rough conditions for parkrun (I thought these were on Saturdays?) and XC
Ali bakes an impressive gingerbread house (complete with a witch?) but frustrated by low finger strength. Most of us will feel that after a week or two off - it comes back quickly!
The rain doesn't put Joughton off climbing at Malham! Gets some decent indoor training in too. (I found the fingerboard fairly boring until I'd been doing it for long enough to track my progress a bit.)
Tyler has a varied week of bouldering, running, travelling and Menu del Dia.
Luke Owens gets started on an aerobic base. Do you reckon you'll get back to tick that 7A boulder in Ogwen?
AndrewW keeps the fat club going
pork pie girl seems to be struggling to manage the new rest-day regime... I'm going to be very jealous every time you mention that wall in your garage!
grubes is back from 2 weeks in Font. Sounds like you had a good time, and plenty of goals ticked!
Ally Smith reports on a very successful trip to Spain, good work!
Nomics4sale also spent New year in Spain! Sounds like some good routes, and lots of ascent on the runs.
maria85 reveals herself as another Xmas day runner. Sorry to hear about your mate's ankle
Jamming Dodger had a good time in Spain, including CHEESE!!! Chorro's a good place.
Dandan82 is having success with elbow rehab/maintenance. Definitely good to keep that under control.
Welcome to Si Cox. Are you keeping up with the four wall sessions/week?
Exile had a successful week on various fronts.
RM199 managed to get in some winter climbing! From what I hear it was more like swimming at that time, with the amount of powder.
Nick Russell tried to run off the NYE booze, only to spend most of the race sliding around on his arse.
IainRUK is back to running. Who else would call 90-100miles/week "normal"?
stevemarkperry gets out on the mountain bike. Must have been plenty muddy if the weather was anything like what we had.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick - although my crap short term memory doesn't allow me to remember what my 'successful week on many fronts' consisted of now!
Thanks Nick - although my crap short term memory doesn't allow me to remember what my 'successful week on many fronts' consisted of now!
In reply to Exile:
Yeah, that is a potential problem. I guess people will have to look back if they want to understand any of the more cryptic comments.
> memory doesn't allow me to remember what my 'successful week on many fronts' consisted of now!
Yeah, that is a potential problem. I guess people will have to look back if they want to understand any of the more cryptic comments.
In reply to Nick Russell:
I'm not worried, I'm just chuffed I had a successful week on many fronts!!!
I'm not worried, I'm just chuffed I had a successful week on many fronts!!!
In reply to Nick Russell:
Sorry about that. Was busy climbing last night (for once!).
Onsighted a V3 tho, so happy about that.
Sorry about that. Was busy climbing last night (for once!).
Onsighted a V3 tho, so happy about that.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Hi Nick, thanks for the stats.
Yes, managed four sessions this week and feel that I am getting more established in the V2-4 band (grouped by colour, rather than single grade at Brookes wall).
Last week I ripped several callouses off my hands, so have been suffering from sore hands. However, moisturiser and change of route style has helped. Will be pumicing/sandpapering them from now on - lesson learned...
Will post again on Sunday.
Hi Nick, thanks for the stats.
Yes, managed four sessions this week and feel that I am getting more established in the V2-4 band (grouped by colour, rather than single grade at Brookes wall).
Last week I ripped several callouses off my hands, so have been suffering from sore hands. However, moisturiser and change of route style has helped. Will be pumicing/sandpapering them from now on - lesson learned...
Will post again on Sunday.
Post edited at 15:55
In reply to JimmyKay:
Thanks but I'm not sure was running the same race as you unless I got lost on the way because I wasn't running in Halesowen. I was considerably further south running around some football pitches so probably a much flatter course! It is grim trying to get out at the moment I agree.
Thanks but I'm not sure was running the same race as you unless I got lost on the way because I wasn't running in Halesowen. I was considerably further south running around some football pitches so probably a much flatter course! It is grim trying to get out at the moment I agree.
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