/ Advice for aid practice/ European big walling
Hello all, myself and 2 friends are aiming to climb El Cap later this year but would like to try something smaller first. we have a porta ledge and have been on a big wall course and have practiced a small amount of aid climbing.
Does anyone know the best place to practice in Europe where we could free climb trad routes upto around 12ish pitches with free up to E1/E2 and some easy aid pitches? wanting to spend just one night on the route ideally as we have lots of other things to practice in the week.
Aiming for April/May time. have looked at verdon and croatia but its always hard to go on personal research so if anyone has experience in this please reply.
Norway... numerous locations...
Kvaloya (next to Troms) comes to mind rather quickly. Blåmannen for Aid and then everything else for free climbing...
is norway doable in the space of a week? any specific routes in mind?or links?cheers
A day of flying from UK to Troms, taxi/bus what ever to Kvaloya (depending on where you plan on climbing, between 30mins to 1h).
All you need to know regarding routes and whotnot would be in the Kvaloya - Selected Climbs book...
Also, a bunch of info here in UCK forums and most likely the routes DB.
as daft as it sounds i cant track down anywhere that sells it.evry time i click on a link for the book it goes dead.most frustrating.
There were others as well... perhaps Amazon or Cordee might have it.
Oh, and some info in english
thanks very much
any other ideas people?
If you are limited by time/money, don't leave the county, give yourself 3 days at the Dewerstone in Devon. Granite cracks. 140ft tall. Aid as many routes as you can with a half height belay. Haul to the belay each time and set the ledge up on a few of them. You will then be faster at aiding, and know who many metres per hour you can achieve. Then do them all again.
If you are not limited by time and money, fly to Yosemite for a week and do the Prow or leaning tower. This will cost, but increase your chances on El Cap.
Kilnsey main overhang or Stron Ulladale on Harris?
Not really trad but if you want pure aid practice Paroi Rouge in The Verdon is great. It's easy to get to and there's a couple of good routes. I tried a route called "Pourquoi j'ai mangé mon père" It's A2 and felt hard compared to El Cap A2. I was soloing and bailed at the top of pitch 3.
Here's the Camp to camp info: http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/127166/fr/verdon-paroi-rouge-pourquoi-j-ai-mange-mon-pere
I have a friend who also climbed a route down there - the more popular "Castapaigne Rouge" He said that was good but the bolt ladders got a bit boring.
thanks for your advice E,always helpfull.
Anyone else any ideas?
If it was me, I'd follow David Coley's advice, get down to the Dewerstone or somewhere like that and make a complete balls of everything. Then I'd repeat the process a few times. Only when things were starting to get slick would I go somewhere 'proper'.
planning to do UK practice first anyway! But there's only so much you can do before getting on a real little big wall!
comment says a detached overhang!lol
Jon, in part what I was suggesting was that you didn't set the location for your Euro trip until you had a lot of UK stuff under your belt. This would allow a more logical choice as you would know your weaknesses and know what you need more experience with.
For example. The aid thing and the wall thing I would suggest are separate things. If you get fast at aid on two pitch routes you then might free climb a long bolted route in the alps hauling and camping on the face. You could pick a face for this with road-side access, or you could make it more realistic, with the whole pain and suffering thing with a face like this (2hr walk in): http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3983. Descent from this face is either by walking off the top, or by rapping with all your shit.
That Probably fell down years ago. Itll be fine. Maybe. Possibly. Who Knows? Only one way to find out ;-)
do I hear sandbag anywhere?I think that your ukc name is a dead give away....
No, its VS A1. 30m. Mostly on in situ Gear. Has some big League exposure to boot.
I don't know route details but the Qualido wall in Mello looks enormous and it's granite.
There is some walls in the Sella area that are around 500 metres tall. Although not sure if any climbs are graded for Aid.
Piz Ciavazes is one possibility.
what about Orco in Italy, some big granite routes there.
The OP wants to practice before getting to Yosemite. I'm no expert, but the issue is that Yosemite probably has the easiest, safest, quickest to access, best rescue serviced big aid walls on the planet. Hence finding a practice big aid wall before going there is difficult. People go to Yosemite to practice before they head elsewhere.
Hence my suggestion of aiding short routes and then free climbing something over a few days somewhere warm and sunny.
Motörhead in Eldorado, Grimsel, 500m being one of the the best big routes to practice on without full on commitment. Top notch granite, have a look.
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