UKC

We're out in Rjukan for the next 12 days and will be posting regular condition reports and a blog for those interested or planning a trip out. Please follow the link:
http://clifflowtherroxcoolblog.blogspot.no/2014/02/a-virgin-no-more.html

Cheers

Cliff
(www.roxcool.co.uk)

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

Day 2 - Krokan (conditions and Blog)

http://clifflowtherroxcoolblog.blogspot.no/2014/02/release-krokan.html?m=1

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

Thanks for the blog Cliff,i was getting worried that nothing would be in condition, by the time i got there.

In reply to Fiskavaig:

There's plenty to go at... and plenty to entertain!

All the best

Cliff

Day 3 - Lower Gorge (Conditions and Blog)...Enjoy

http://clifflowtherroxcoolblog.blogspot.no/2014/02/heavy-boys-on-heavy-wate...

Day 4 - Snowed In!!! (Conditions and Blog)

http://clifflowtherroxcoolblog.blogspot.no/2014/02/sabotaged-by-snow.html

Day 5 - Vemork Bridge - Chewy Ice (Conditions and Blog)

http://clifflowtherroxcoolblog.blogspot.no/2014/02/time-to-put-history-book...

In reply to Cliff Lowther:
Thanks for letting us know the state of things, Cliff. Your blog has been a good source of information on Rjukan conditions.

We got out on our first day today. First to arrive at Krokan, just before loads of top ropers arrived and took over every icefall. But they all disappeared after 12. A mystery.

Had been expecting wet ice from the YR.NO. Forecast but were pleasantly surprised to find all climbs in, and in good condition. Quite a lot of snow fell during the day. Rucksacks kept getting covered with snow suggesting about 3 inches fell today. We are unlikely to go anywhere tomorrow where there's much of a walk-in.

Today we did Bullen, unknown climb, Kjokkentrappa, Tannpirkeren and Topp. A good day.

We were only feet away from an avalanche a little while ago. It was a mass of snow sliding off the roof of our cabin. Made quite a noise when it went!!!!

In reply to Pay attention:

Hey we were also at Krokan today ...Have a look at the new blog and maybe you remember us...Pleased you have found the condition report and blog useful ...Enjoy the rest of your trip.

Cliff

Day 6 - Return to Krokan (Conditions and Blog)...Enjoy

http://clifflowtherroxcoolblog.blogspot.no/2014/02/the-return-of-krokan.htm...

Can I just say thanks 'Cliff Lowther'. We are heading out on the 15th Feb, i.e. in a few days. I was getting a bit worried about the conditions, but your blog has calmed those fears
Maybe I should send you our updates and keep it going?

In reply to ERU:
ERU, that would be ace. I'm heading out on the 23rd and it would be great to be kept up to date.

In reply to HenryJM:

Unfortunately we're only here till 14th....Forced rest day today due to taking friends to the airport at Torpe...So no Blog today Sorry!

Regards

Cliff

In reply to ERU:

Great idea to keep the blog going for others coming out late season

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

Thanks for the blog Cliff - it's invaluable. I'm heading out for a week on the 16th. Any suggestions for somewhere I can setup a top rope on something easy (WI2-3) without getting in anyone's way? My climbing partner hasn't been on ice before, and I have my own cobwebs to blow away what with this Scottish season being all about the mixed...

Andrew.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Hi Andrew....If its mid-week I think you'll be fine at either Ozzmosis or Krokan, both of which have routes of that grade...and both very accessible. If the temps remain high Krokan will be better. There is ice in abundance but it has been warm today. (we didn't climb as we were dropping two of the gang down at the airport).

If its the weekend you'll have to fight (dirty is best) like the rest of us

Regards

Cliff

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

The huge curtain either side of the pillar known as (3) Unknown on p 43 of the Heavy Water guide collapsed today. Apparently someone was top roping when the whole mass fractured and split. Trying to find out who. Seems they're safe.

Temperatures have risen today. Some of the pillars at Krokan were thinner today and dripping. The more consolidated such as Bullen are holding. Easier climbs quite chopped up, harder ones are quite hooky.

Some routes in Rjukan central done today : Klappfoss & Tjonstadbergfossen. Bit wet.

Temps should drop overnight and won't be so warm the next few days.

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

How much snow is there at the moment? We are driving across from Oslo tomorrow evening and wondering whether or not to hire some snow chains? Any advice much appreciated!

In reply to MrRiley:

We had to borrow some chains the other week to get out from the Vermork Bridge car park. We also had to dig ourselves out of a few carparks where chains would have made things easier. Also, getting up to the ski centre was interesting and getting out again after an afternoon of snow was only just doable without chains.

I'd hire them, but then snow conditions have probably changed now and if you're sensible and don't drive into drifts/walk rather than drive down to the Ice Park/keep an eye on roads/make friends with others who HAVE hired chains, then you should/could be fine

In reply to MrRiley:

Hi There...We have a hire car from Hertz and its fully wintered up (IE winter tyres) but does not have chains...We have driven on snow all week including today down to Vemork Bridge CP and have had no issues what so ever...We've even tried to skid the car to see just how good the tyres are and we just couldn't do it....If you drive carefully you will have no problems. If its a UK vehicle buy two sets of chains!!!!

Very little snow on roads between Torpe Airport and Rjukan yesterday and only a little on road up the valley today

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

Our Golf was shocking this year... even though it had decent winters on. Last years little Polo was far superior!

In reply to Si Withington:

We have a V40 Volvo....Its awesome!!!!

Day 8 - Upper Gorge (Condition and Blog) We had a good day today people!

http://clifflowtherroxcoolblog.blogspot.no/2014/02/fantastic-day.html

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

Yesterday the roads in Rjukan were running with water. Today they have black ice.

Temperature has dropped overnight. It's freezing so still above the seasonal average, but has been good for ice climbs. Weather today has been alternating episodes of clear sky and heavy mist. Bit like Scotland.

One team went to Ozzmosis today. The B team went to Rjukan centre. Did Fur All Menn and Klappfoss . Interesting. Sound ice on first pitch then on second it was brittle and dinner plating, then there was a snow gully and finally exit through waist deep snow and saplings.

In reply to All: Thanks guys for the tips! We have a winterized hire car so it sounds like we should be okay without chains. Any news on people climbing in the Bolgen ot Kong areas? Thanks!

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

No thermometer so cant give exact temperature but today seemed a bit cooler. There's snow on the road where it was running water on Monday so things are improving.

Cool today and some snowflakes.

Late start and late finish today. Went to vermork bridge and did Host and then went for Vermorkfossen Ost. Finished by torchlight. Got back and found the neighbours have kindly dropped off a load of food as they leave early morning. Thank you, neighbours!!

Heard that there is not much going in the lower Gorge.

In reply to Pay attention:

Dean and myself headed up to do Juvsoyla 3* WI6 at the head of the Upper Gorge today...The temperatures up there (5 degrees all day)were higher than the lower part of the gorge around Vemork Bridge and I believe they have been like that over the past week...the ice/route wasn't in 'nick' and unfortunately we backed off before even making the traverse across to the base of the route which was basically soft snow on rock, very little ice in evidence going across. This was after we'd swam our way up the snowed up gully to the start....every little distribution in weight saw us sink up to our thighs. No fun at all!

A similar day is forecast for tomorrow!

Cliff

Day 9 - Aborted mission! Conditions and Blog....and a little more...

http://clifflowtherroxcoolblog.blogspot.no/2014/02/what-goes-up-sometimes-c...

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

There was continuous snow fall last night. At 8 am it was half a degree below freezing in Rjukan centre, and at 1pm it was 3 degrees above.

Went to upper gorge to attempt Saboteurfossen but found ourselves breaking trail in the fresh snow on the approach. Came back and started up Nye Vemorkfoss, but this was dripping wet. Looked better further away than it did up close so we went up Bakveien, which was a pleasant snow gully rather than an ice climb. As I was topping out on pitch 2 a slab of snow near Ian's belay suddenly released and poured down pitch1. This would not have been welcome if it had happened 30 minutes earlier.

Good route, but an early finish for us today. Well, it makes a change!

Day 10 Rjukan (Conditions and Blog)

Well guys this was our last day today (travel back to UK tomorrow, even though temperatures were going up we were keen to finish on a high especially after yesterdays fiasco! Went to Rjukan Central (Tjonnstadberg Area)and climber the awesome For Alle Menn 3* WI5.

See blog and route conditions on this link:

http://clifflowtherroxcoolblog.blogspot.no/2014/02/fine-finale-on-for-alle-...

Cheers I hope you've enjoyed them!

Cliff

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

Thanks for all the reports, i have followed them closely, i just hope the ice holds out for another couple of weeks, till i get out there! thanks again.

In reply to Cliff Lowther:
So Cliff to sum up, we can't tell by your blogs; did you have an AWESOME time? Non of us are jealous btw.

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

Yes, Cliff! thanks for the conditions reports.

We went to Kong Vinter today. The book says there is a 20 minute walk in. It is remote. You have a committing drive along a remote road until you run out of road. Then there is a short walk to the trail that leads down to a tree with tat and a maillon. Here you find a committing abseil down to the start of the climbs. Later on you'll find that this in not the abseil point set out in the guide book but is the finish of dronninga!

You are only 20 minutes from the car, that's true. But the routes have a remote and committing feel to them. The grade 4s seem to be top end grade 4s. You encounter deep snow, steep snow, solid ice, unconsolidated ice, sugary ice. Sometimes you can't get good axe or crampon placements. And it's steep.

Kong has more of an adventure feel than Krokan, the Gorge or Rjukan Central.

In reply to Cliff Lowther:
http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/feb/14/ice-climbing-norway-rjukan-te...

An article in the guardian about ice climbing in rjukan and saboteurs.

"Ice climbing in Norway: on the trail of the Telemark heroes

Our writer follows in the crampons of the famous wartime saboteurs on a classic ice climb in Norway's Rjukan valley""

In reply to jonnylowes:

Hahaha Jonny!!! You would think I was being paid by the Rjukan tourist board lol

In reply to Pay attention:

Great Article!!! Thanks for that

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

Due to best laid plans going to waste, the weather for Rjukan is not looking too great- a bit warm. 4 of us will be heading out on Sunday (we've paid for the flight to Torp already!) and I'm not familiar with Norway as a whole, would anybody have any other suggestions? Get a refund on the hire car and take a train somewhere? Or are there venues high enough up for an ice climbing trip when the temperature forecast for town is above zero all week?
Many thanks for ideas.

In reply to HenryJM:

It may be of assistance to check status of this year's Ice Festival for a clue. They have a contact details on their webpage. It's this weekend I think.

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

Been here since the 16th. Had an excellent day in Krokan under blue skies on Monday, but an underwhelming day at Vermork Bridge today. Both Vermorkbrufoss routes were fun, but nowhere near their respective guidebook grades (Both around WI3). Attempted a near vertical column to the left of Vermorkbrufoss Vest but was a fairly dull jug-fest in aerated ice. Hoping for better tomorrow.

Photos here :
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152195595110342.1073741832.6434...

In reply to planetmarshall:

Climbed Sabortørfossen today in the Upper Gorge. The undisputed highlight of the week, but like most of the climbs I've done so far a soft touch at WI5.

Andrew.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Very little of interest in The Lower Gorge today. Ozzimosis provided better value. The crag classic that shares its name is good, but try to avoid the stepladder that's been carved out of the column.

In reply to Cliff Lowther:

Has anyone done anything in Bolgen or Svadde areas I the past few days?

In reply to Pay attention:

Was back in Krokan today enjoying the sociable atmosphere of the festival and trying out a fun overhanging ice roof created by a large segment of an ice fall that had detached. Gratuitous fig-fouring ensued. A fairly substantial thaw was evident on ghe road back to the valley.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Dropped in to Lipton but, due to rise in temperature, it was dripping. Called that off. Rjukanfossen did not look great. Juldagfossen was unconsolidated and insecure.

Lots of avalanches in upper gorge today, especially in the Juvsola area