/ Top HVS routes north wales or Lake District
Looking for some cool HVS climbs in North Wales and also in Lake District. What to know which ones people think are the best in these areas?
If you want to sample the slate, Looning the Tube is probably a good place to start, although its a little soft.
In the mountains, Diagonal (Dinas Mot) is highly entertaining, as is Great-Bow combination at Cloggy.
Don't know jack about the Lakes though.
Plenty of the recognised classics - DoWH etc. still on my to do list.
Scavenger, Gogarth Main Cliff. One of the best in the UK. Dream of White Horses is the other obvious classic. Diagonal is classic, also Great/Bow combination on Cloggy if you get the weather (not amazing climbing the whole way, but a big route).
Kipling Groove's pretty great. If you can do a bit of soft E1, Arcturus/Golden Slipper is a superb 6 pitch outing. I did those two on my first real weekend climbing in the Lakes - very memorable and relatively often dry!
Really good stuff in North Wales includes Flake Wall and Mean Feat in the Moelwyns; Concrete Chimney, Wen, Britomartis and Dream of White Horses at Gogarth (Scavenger already mentioned), plus King Bee Crack at Holyhead Mountain; Spectre and Diagonal in Llanberis Pass are both an absolute must at HVS; Acheron at Cwm Cywarch.
If your profile is to be believed you've only led one VD. Be careful. Some of the suggestions, if taken up, would be very worrying for you (and most probably impossible). Take things one step at a time!
I really liked spectre on clogwyn y grochan in north wales, superb crack pitch
In the lakes at hvs then Arcturus golden slipper combo is excellent and trout dale pinnacle superdirect is great too. Have fun
So far as the Lakes goes Mortician on Black Crag is excellent. Mandrake at Quayfoot Buttress is another good route in Borrowdale. There are some very good 1 pitch HVS's on Sergeant Crag Slabs too.
Best HVS I've done in the Lakes is Centaur on Scafell East Buttress. Yellow Slab is another classic HVS on the same part of the crag.
Pillar has Thanatos/Electron which is great in a dry spell.
Diagonal (Dinas Mot)
Merlin Direct (Tremadog)
The Fang (Tremadog)
Dream of White Horses (Gogarth)
Kipling Groove (Gimmer)
Troutdale Pinnacle Direct (Borrowdale)
Arcturus/Golden Slipper link up is pretty much number one on my wish list.
In reply to HB1:
No I've done a lot more than what is on my profile! That is from when i first really started climbing but gained a lot more experience since then but not logged it all on here... thanks for the concern.
Golden slipper on Pavey Ark is lovely, and linking it with a route from below makes for a very fine day day.
Pluto is another memorable route, very worthwhile.
Brant Direct in the Pass is a good HVS. anything at Gogarth is worth doing at that grade. King Bee Crack is excellent but pumpy.
I can vouch for nearly all the routes mentioned above (apart from one or two I've not climbed), but for me the outstanding one has to be Diagonal - what a superb route! I would have also put Cemetery Gates in the same category but that's E1 these days - well worth a bash once you're solid on HVS though.
Don't forget Cemetery Gates.
*sits back with popcorn*
In North Wales:
Hŕwks nest aręte
Mur y nwl
The Superdirect (at HVS) is better than the Direct (VS) on Troutdale Pinnacle in the Lakes. More sustained and varied.
Put Gazebo at Castle Rock on the list. Understarred and a favourite of many. Slightly bold but fine really slabby wall climb.
Agree re all the stuff at Pavey.
Add Meshach to the list of great HVS's at Tremadog.
At Dinas Mot, make sure you look at Lorraine Variation; a great long sustained pitch.
Some interesting ones there - thought I'd look them up in search of inspiration. Had to do a bit of detective work though! Moai Man http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=47374 looks interesting - I've never been to Gist Ddu. But, where or what is Hŕwks nest aręte? Not so sure about Acheron - I've never got on with Anstys, is that a good reason to go back. Mur y Niwl http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29164 is a great route, but at VS it slips below the bar. The rest I'd have to agree are well worth doing.
Sorry my Welsh spelling is bad.....
Thought Hawks nest Aręte, Glyder Fach and Mur y Nwl are both low end HVS and both brilliant.
Acheron at Cwm Cowarch is the best mountain route I've done, really varied with lots of unexpected twists and turns.
Gist Ddu on a sunny autumn morning is just stunning. Roughest, bubbliest mountain rock in the Uk?
Lots Groove, Glyder Fach hasn't been mentioned yet.
Also Crucible on Craig Cwm Silyn (excuse spelling)
I can lead up to Severe 4a.
Do you think I can lead HVS 5a and E1 5b?
Thanks for that, I've been digging out my guide books, adding to my "wish list" and dreaming of warm dry weather. (Even if a couple of them are top end VS rather than HVS!)
If you lead Severe, you've got a fairly good chance of successfully following HVS.
Cool as beans.
I am trying to sort out my heel hook rockovers.
Kipling groove is the best HVS I've done
don't know wales but concrete chimney gogarth is very good
Agree completely, KG was brilliant, especially after reading the late Mick Burkes inspiring account of his ascent in hard rock dozens of times before finally getting around to doing it. I seem to remember my style was very similar, deliberating and going for it half a dozen times before finally cutting loose !
One of the best crags in the Lakes is High Crag, Buttermere, and it has 2 brilliant HVS routes : Samson and High Crag Buttress.
The rock is perfect.
To add to Scavenger at Gogarth I would include Pentathol and if you can get an old enough guide Gogarth itself.
How could I forget? I did High Crag Buttress (HVS) - which passes between the "eyes" - with Carolyn (who posts on here) and her other half. Great route.
Oooh, spooky - I have just read the thread title and thought "High Crag Buttress". Great route, and unlikely to be overcrowded!
However, it's a bit of a walk in for some.... ;-)
Never mind the walk in, I never got over that manky wet "VS" (not) at the far left that Simon dragged me up... :)
(just checked the logbooks here and I think the route in question, Wishful Thinking (?), is down as "currently impossibly dirty" - which it was then too!)
Also, I was wondering why no one had suggested Adam at Shepherd's Crag, before I looked it up and realised it's VS 5a, and not HVS. But might be worth adding to the list for a less than perfect day when you want to stay low.
And as for the "walk" off the pair of you found from it.....
I recall Isengard on Dow as an absorbing and worthwhile pitch.
Lost in space gets E1 on Goat and I thought it very steady.
West Rib on Dinas Mot similarly and gets less traffic than the other very good routes on that bit of the cliff.
As said above, loads of good stuff at Gogarth.Dont forget Cloggy too.....
Lots of good suggestions on here, perhaps the OP might like to turn it into a ticklist.
Putting the ticklish together now, will make it public once it's finished :)
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