Rockfax Description
Another stunning classic with sustained difficulties and breath-taking exposure at the grade. Care is needed to protect the second adequately on the devious and exposed crux pitch.

1) 4b, 12m. Climb up to the left side of the large grassy ledge. Walk along the ledge and belay beneath the flakes and corner.
2) 4c, 32m. Climb the wall above the belay to gain the base of the large corner system. Follow this until a hand-traverse line leads rightwards along the highest of two parallel ledges to a tough step-down. Follow an easing diagonal line rightwards to an awkward semi-hanging stance.
3) 4c, 18m. Drop down rightwards from the stance and head right again under the roof to reach a ledge. Climb up and left, past an arete, to gain a grassy stance.
4) 4c, 22m. Climb the groove above to gain the short cracked wall. Climb the crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS.

Jack Manfredi 04/Oct AltLd
Hidden 30/Sep Lead O/S
static266 30/Sep 2nd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 19/Sep AltLd O/S

We went a little awry halfway into pitch 3 and ended up at the top of Agripa pitch 3. Joe led pitches 2/3 and I led pitch 1 and the 'escape pitch'.

with Joe Harris
noemie5438 08/Aug AltLd O/S
with Caitlin
Hidden ?/Jul Lead O/S
babymoac 27/Jun AltLd
with Capesy, graham d
Hidden 16/Jun -
sgl 23/Apr AltLd
with James
Dan724 21/Apr Lead O/S
with Ollie Halford
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Lessworkmoreclimbing 13/Sep/14 AltLd

I led crux traverse pitch. Gear behind not completely solid block, hand traverse confidently with nothing to speak of for feet - great route but glad VS isn't my max grade! Failed to find correct top pitch, did a HVS 4c version!

with Kev
msoldn 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Sam (tree surgent)
Pete_Frost 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & 4. Good gear is surprisingly rare on this route with many cracks being flared or hourglass shaped, and many spikes being loose. The true traverse line may be below the obvious top crack on P1. This lower line is on flat edges and doesn't have much gear, but it seems to have more footholds. I took the upper line and faffed for ages getting in the right size of cam before an awkward step 2/3 the way across.

Hidden 05/Sep/14 AltLd
Ray Sparks 16/Aug/14 Lead

Superb route we had to ab of the end of pitch 2 as it was getting late and we never had are head torches.

with pero
Pero 16/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
fizzychewitt 09/Aug/14 AltLd

Great, involving climb. Every pitch is interesting. I agree with North Wales Rock over grading

with Jayne
will moy 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/14 AltLd
Matthew Robinson 20/Jul/14 AltLd
with Rhys
poeter210 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Fantastic outing, even moreso when combined with pinnacle wall. Burly, intimidating and exposed, neither leader gets off lightly!

druss 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led boulder style P1 and P3. P3 with short, exposed ascending hand traverse.

caradoc 21/Jun/14 AltLd

Superb VS...

with Matt H.
Hidden 15/Jun/14 -
Col Kingshott 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Rob Evans ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
cathymiller 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and 4. Traverse on P2 not as bad as all that (helps to be tall probably).

Si ??/2014 -
rbharries ??/2014 -
with mat
guy757 24/Sep/13 -
switch 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Kevin
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
TimKnight 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 via high hand traverse, fun

with Dave Marshall
pebbles 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

HVS 5a in ground up, which seems more appropriate to me - it didnt occur to either of us that this was a soft touch. First pitch is not 4b - Ground Up 4c grading seemed much more appropriate.Ground Up and Rockfax grading of traverse pitch seems correct at 5a(rather than 4c)with spaced protection for the crux moves, though might well feel easier than that for the tall. all of the pitches great quality, big exposure on the two traverse sections. continued up pinnacle wall (listed as one continuous link up route in Ground Up at hvs 5a) me p2,4,6, Megan p1,3,5

with megan beaumont
useful 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. The first move on P1 was basically the crux. P3's finger traverse was a lot easier than trying to avoid rope drag: watch out for the rope-grabbing crack as you exit the roof!

with Steve E
pimpy 13/Jul/13 AltLd

lead 3rd pitch

with clare muir
Jim Slater 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P2 and P4. Highlight of the day, watching Alan go into scamper mode on the P2 traverse.

with James (Buxton MC), Alan Smith
stemill 06/Jul/13 AltLd

P2+4. Well worth the walk in. Sustained and exposed - brilliant!

Chris Manasseh 06/Jul/13 AltLd

Led 1+3

with Ste Millington
Rog Wilko 06/Jul/13 AltLd

Quite a testing route for the grade. P 1 is bold and serious and harder than guidebook suggests. P 2 traverse is really hard too and quite serious. Good route though, especially when finished via Pinnacle Wall. P 2 made harder as the hand traverse was liberally sprinkled with dry soil like ball bearings.

egg-man 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Soil on hand traverse and lack of gear made it seem more like HVS

Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd dnf
Hidden 04/Jun/13 AltLd
lithos 01/Jun/13 AltLd

P2, P4 (possibly wrong groove - didn't go up the slab, quite tough!) We arrived another party had just started so we did Amphitheatre Buttress. Then abbed in from the large spike on the right (looking down by the holes in ground) 59m to the gully bed (past tat at 45m)

Ows ?/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 31/May/13 Lead O/S
kim.mulji 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

I led pitch one. Wasn't sure quite how far left to start up, so started about 3m left of main ledge, and after initial climb up to ledge, traverse over is a bit scary with little protection. Pitch two is straight-forward, if you don't try and traverse high up by standing on the obvious ledge! Not fun with a large ruck-sac on! Led pitch three, and pumped out a bit trying to get some protection in before the step across, and ended up struggling a bit to establish myself on the ledge in the traverse.

Monkey_Alan 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 4. Excellent route, but rather cold after we lost the sun on P2. Nobody else on the route, but watched a steady stream going up Amphitheatre Buttress.

Julian Prieto 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P3

Lawrence Dudley 05/May/13 AltLd
with Julian Prieto, Alan Blanchflower
cballard ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 13/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
jayrenegade 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1+2 then P4. Finnsihed up pinical wall. Thought it was solid VS not HVS as in our guide, but Prav thought P3 was hard for the grade. One move wonder but difficult for VS.

with Prav
Jams Crwca 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Did high level hand traverse on P2, seemed logical with good pro (poss 5a). The whole route is solid and hard going, loved P3 dangle then up to ledge!. Lead all pitches, with rucksack then finished up P'wall.

themadbrown 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S

My longest climbing day so far and a superb one. Thank god for the 'rock god' that is my climbing partner who hauled me up all but one? of the pitches! Climbed 6 pitches instead of the 4 in the guide book-the hefty hand traverse using the crack on the2/3 pitch was going well until a foot slip which actually landed me onthe right endofthe original pitch-handy! Def the most challenging climb ive done to date with great exposure and views over adjacent Ampitheatre ,which looked tiny!

with james
Hidden 20/Jun/12 AltLd
captain dringo ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
mes32 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Great route! Led pitch 3 and part of 4. Start of 3 with 'exposure snapping at heels' very exciting!

chrisallan 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Falko 30/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Third time for me but first for Steve. I have always hand traversed the higher diagonal line and directed Steve to do the same. Onlookers correctly pointed out that this is not how the route is described in the guidebook but Steve completed the diagonal line anyway. This probably increases the overall route grade to HVS.

with Steve M
MoWalker3 30/Sep/11 -
with Cormac
Hidden ?/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/11 AltLd
Becky E 30/Jul/11 2nd dog

Enjoyed pitch 2, then it all went wrong - resorted to prussiks for the hard move onto the block/ledge on P3.

Graeme Hammond 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

excellent, wanted to this for ages, did in 3 pitches

with Becky E
teflonpete 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Exposed, committing and truly, truly excellent. Lead Pitches 1 and 3, Diccon led 2 and 4, then I led pitches 1 and 3 of Pinnacle wall to finish while Diccon did the scary walk along the sloping ledge (far more bravely than I seconded it!)

with Diccon
Graham Westbrook 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Rob Exile Ward 09/Jul/11 Lead

Just beaten to the start by another party, which was a bit frustrating. The Amphitheatre has a fantastic mini-Alpine ambience.

with Sam Ward
Hidden 09/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
myoung 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Roger Cruse 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Mark
scorky345 24/May/11 AltLd
tim20 24/May/11 AltLd
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd
Lenny 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with John
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Cool climb. Rained half way.

with Tom Jumar
Will Hunt 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch to open groove. Then alternating pitches after that.

jshields 09/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden 04/Sep/10 AltLd
tedburt 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Aaron Burdett
Hidden 03/Jul/10 AltLd
monika paprzycka 03/Jul/10 2nd
with Matt, Jeremy Axford
Hidden 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Ed Griffin 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Alaric
Alaric 26/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Led all the pitches this time around. Pitch 2 seemed quite straight forward this time.

with Ed
Hidden 25/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Pilch 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

A great route through steep terrain

with Mel
mikelaing ?/May/10 AltLd
with Ian Whitehead
Oliver Hill 15/Apr/10 Lead

On the second pitch I took the 'higher of two traverse lines' This was a rising crack. After 20 feet of handtraversing I could find no way of stepping down, there were no footholds and it got harder. This clearly was not a VS. I continued using a somewhat suspect flake in the crack, which I assumed must be safe after so many ascents,eventually arriving at what transpired to be the correct 'perch' belay. I would highly recommend this variation, about E1 5b, 40 feet of sustained hand traversing on a sharp edge with minimal lichen covered footholds, well protected by med wires to start then 1.5 friend and later 2.5 friend. The rising traverse is clearly visible in photos leading directly to 4 feet above the perch belay. I imagine this variation is climbed by about 1 in 10 ropes as it is the most obvious traverse line, just above the correct horizontal ledges. What amazes me is that it is not in the guide book for one of the best hand traverse in Wales. OK, so I have not done all the other contenders --- no point now really.

JiveWeasel 18/Sep/09 AltLd

Whether this is top end of the VS graded list or bottom end of the HVS graded list doesn't matter much, this is not one to do as your first VS lead. As already mentioned by Mrs W, the crux is not so cruxy if you are tall, but there are still some vicious little cracks waiting above.

Mrs Weasel 18/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Great route. We had a truly epic day: what with taking walking in past llyn Eigiau and a few unintended detours it took us nearly 3 hours to the bottom of the climb. We got to the top (of the crag) in the dusk, with one torch, so took the (much) longer but safer route down, getting back to the rucksacks 3 hours later. Back to the car at 1am - but better than a night out! The climb itself was truly memorable -either top end VS or easy HVS. Pitch 1, not too tricky but no gear (me). Pitch 2 (5a) led by JW dead easy for him (6'3'') but terrifying for me at 5'4'' what with not being able to reach the top ledge from the bottom one. Pitch 3 (me) has a really scary traverse move with nothing under you except miles of empty air, and pitch 4 (JW) a tough little corner crack. We'd thought we should be able to ab down from the top - but it didn't seem like that good an idea when we were there so carried on up Pinnacle Wall.

lucasp 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 & 3.

with Dave C (Lmc)
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Daniel Wrightson 31/May/09 AltLd
with Steve Gould
Dave Thompson 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
with John Evans
bullwinkle 30/May/09 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 & 4

with Paul
jamie ward 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with simon fairman
Conan 24/May/09 AltLd O/S

Absolutely top class route. Top end VS.

with Philippa Reader
alicia 02/May/09 AltLd O/S

I got the traverse pitch and the last pitch--all very nice

with Jamie
Hidden 21/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 21/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Danhan 14/Jun/08 2nd
with Nick
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead
bridget143 24/May/08 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch, Dave the rest. Move onto 3rd pitch off belay is hard. Awsome route.

with Brown
Brown 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Bridget
Theeni 10/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Sven Hassel
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden 25/Aug/07 AltLd
The Bad Cough 11/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
JGW ?/Aug/07 AltLd
with Matt Tilley
Gman ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Eamon
BenTiffin ?/May/07 AltLd
with Matt Collis
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
KeithW 14/Oct/06 AltLd dog

Had an off day, backed off 2nd pitch & wibbled for ages on the 3rd, then couldn't do the 5th. I hate climbing. :O

with Corky
Hidden 14/Jun/06 AltLd
Si dH 04/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Andy Morris
AJM ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Stig 24/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
with Jonathan + Louise Teale
rob1 21/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Jonny Martin, andrew clark
Chesh ?/Aug/05 Lead
with ScotsPaul
Hidden 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
Clucky 09/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with Paul Dickson
John Pickles 08/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with Jon Bracey
Hidden 06/Jun/04 Lead dnf
Jamie B ?/Jun/04 AltLd

One of the best routes I have ever done.

with Kris Quayle
Alaric 27/Sep/03 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 4

with Nigel M
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead
Ann S ?/Jun/03 2nd

Bill led a rope of 4!! me somewhere in the middle.

with Bill Harrison/John Carlin/Shaun Shaughnessy
Urgles ?/May/03 AltLd O/S
with steve c
John Kettle ??/2003 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/02 AltLd
unfit 03/Sep/02 AltLd
with john Norman
Hidden 29/Mar/02 AltLd
Darragh ?/Mar/02 -

Top route.

with Rob
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ??/2002 AltLd
with Jim Barradale
NeilGriffiths 23/Sep/01 AltLd
with Simon Frost
frost ?/Sep/01 -
with N Griffiths
Hidden ?/Jun/01 AltLd
alan moore ??/2000 -

Superb. HVS.

iskra2000 31/Jul/99 AltLd
with Matt Kingsley
Hidden 31/Jul/99 Lead O/S
IanGilbertJones 26/Sep/98 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ?/Sep/98 AltLd
with Stuart Greenall
Paul-Michael 18/Jul/98 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st to the base of the V-groove, 3rd, & 5th piches.

with David Jupp
dickypips ??/1998 AltLd O/S

what an out there climb for the grade.absolutely superb well worth the walk in.kicked myself ever since for not bothering to do the pinnacle wall finish

with john richards
zero six ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 AltLd O/S
John Marsland 14/Aug/97 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 1 and 3

with Ian Manocha
Richard Weller 19/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Simon Currin, Sally Currin
Brian Rodgers ??/1997 AltLd
with Dave Oldacres
Hidden 18/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ?/Jul/96 Lead
Tim Bateman 15/Jun/96 AltLd
Chris Ellis 06/Aug/95 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
Nigel R Lewis 20/Jul/95 2nd
with Gary Lewis
charlesmfrench 05/Aug/94 AltLd O/S


Cowflinger 17/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/94 AltLd
Budge ??/1994 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Derek Ryden ??/1994 AltLd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
Roget 06/Jun/93 2nd O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Rob Davies 01/May/90 Lead

Exciting positions

with Angus McLean
Ched ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Glyn
stewart murray ??/1989 AltLd

Led P1, P2, P4

with Martin Willey
hazeysunshine ?/Jul/87 2nd O/S
with Andy K
Nick Biven ??/1986 -
Backinthegame ?/Oct/85 Lead O/S

With my Dad - great day out

with Dad
Nigel Bond 16/Jun/85 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
RichardMc 16/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Angel Vila
Hidden 13/May/84 2nd
nigehughes ?/Sep/82 Lead
with Jim Hindman
Mark Kemball 16/Jul/82 AltLd
with Dave Abbey
babymoac 10/Jul/82 AltLd
with MTW & Paul R
leland stamper 07/Nov/81 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ??/1980 AltLd

Done about 3 ascents of this fabulous climb.

with Bob Millward
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden 20/May/79 AltLd
mikej 29/Jul/77 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Mike Owen 15/Jul/77 Solo O/S


with Chester Dent
Bolt Phobia 01/Jun/77 AltLd
Hidden 25/Aug/75 AltLd
Falko 08/Feb/75 Lead O/S

Another Bill Briggs sandbag! I led pitches 1, 2 and 3 as one but did the higher-level rising hand-traverse to reach the perch belay! I have done this twice during the intervening years and was very grateful for the protection provided by a couple of small Friends in the hand traverse. No Friends in '75!

with Roger Edwards, Bill Briggs
Hidden ?/Aug/73 -
pneame ??/1973 -
granitbahn ??/1973 AltLd
uphillnow ?/Jun/65 Lead

also 18/7/2000

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High HVS
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Votes cast 64
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
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Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
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Votes cast 64
Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
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