/ Elbow Problems.....Help...

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Andrew Mallinson - on 11 Feb 2014
Dear UK Collective,
I'm having some right elbow problems...related to climbing before you ask...
I had golfer's elbow(inner elbow) for about 3 months and treated it myself with the isometric & weights exercises I found here on UKC...I've had no problems since.
However, I am now suffering from Tennis Elbow (outer elbow) and wondered what people would suggest to address this problem.....as it's not only stiffening up(my elbow that is...)but the outer joint itself is no getting quite sore when rotated in a particular direction....
Advice gratefully received......!
ANdy
In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

Try one of these http://tcashop.theclimbingacademy.com/armaid
They're good for treating elbows once you have a problem and for keeping your elbows in good shape once you're rid of it.
In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

I didn't check your profile before posting - sorry. We sell them in the centre in Glasgow so give one a go in there.
Simos on 11 Feb 2014
In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

Search on here for tendonitis etc, there are some really good threads with lots of useful info. Pushups etc can help a lot but I think apart from taking it easy for a while to let the inflammation subside, the #1 thing to do is examine the way you climb and find what it is you have to change to stop this from occurring - could be technique, frequency, intensity, warmup/cooldown, type of training and very likely a combination of most of these.

I have never tried armbands myself so can't really comment, the only thing I would say though is that while many things might help speed up your recovery, reduce the pain etc, don't lose sight of the fact that you need to find the root cause of the problem go make your climbing injury-free on an ongoing basis. Good luck!
CurlyStevo - on 11 Feb 2014
In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

Do you climb indoors much? That's the route cause of my problems, especially sustained overhangs and there again leading routes of that nature is more problematic than top roping. I think my problems are some kind of over extension injury that occurs hanging off straight arms, this is worse on side pulls than anything else I think.
johncoxmysteriously - on 11 Feb 2014
In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

Just rotate the frying pan/weight on a stick in the opposite direction, no?

Dave Mac says on his site this only works in 25% of cases because not all golfer's elbows have the same cause. Depressing, but perhaps he's wrong. Anyway, worth a try.

jcm
Matt300 - on 11 Feb 2014
In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

I had exactly the same problem after lots of over hanging boulder problems and indoor routes. I found that resting for a week then push ups for a few weeks combined with only climbing slabs helped. Not saying that this will be a cure for yours(Everybody is different) but Hopefully it will help !
Carless - on 11 Feb 2014
In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

From my experience, unfortunately Tennis takes longer to get over than Golfer's.

One thing that seems to be helping at the moment is always stretching the arms after a session
Andrew Mallinson - on 11 Feb 2014
In reply to Matt300:
Thanks to All,
Some really good suggestions here and have been thinking about root cause etc, because I haven't had any problems in 40 years of climbing....
When I think about it, it's probably the massively overhanging boulder problems, or rather my technique in climbing them...it definitely hurts when I do straight arm hangs...it obviously doesn't help that I instruct ice climbing 3 times a week.....monkey hangs etc....
So I'll rest it for now and try the weight rotation/push up/no overhangs/strectching route and see how I progress.
Thanks again one & all, and I'll let you know how I get on.....
ANdy
Post edited at 16:56
1poundSOCKS - on 11 Feb 2014
In reply to Andrew Mallinson: I had the same. I just rested for 6 weeks, did some powerball and used an anti inflammatory gel (maybe overkill but I'd just read Jerry Moffat's book). I never had that problem again, and it's been over a year since, including a lot of indoor bouldering.

Robert Durran - on 12 Feb 2014
In reply to Carless:

> One thing that seems to be helping at the moment is always stretching the arms after a session.

Stretching (lots, especially after climbing) seems to be what has turned the corner for my tennis elbow.

CurlyStevo - on 12 Feb 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:
I also have found stretching helps a lot. Also found sports massage on my ligaments helped a lot.

Also listening to my body and not climbing until I have nothing left in the tank.

The other thing is to be careful when climbing indoors if I haven't climbed indoors for a while, limit the length of sessions and type of climbing.
Post edited at 08:35
steveb2006 - on 12 Feb 2014
In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

Had tennis elbow this time last year. Apart from the above advice I went to see my doctor and got a referral to NHS physio. Thought there would be a long waiting list but got seen in week. Was quite impressed - course of massage, exercises and laser treatment (latter 'like ultrasound but more targetted'). Obviously didnt climb for 3 months or so but was climbing regularly again by summer (tho left off the wall a few more months).
Marcus - on 13 Feb 2014
In reply to Andrew Mallinson:
Contact Robin O'Leary who wrote the injury prevention article on UKC. He sells or can get hold of the Thera-Band Flexbar which will cure both golfer's and tennis elbow. I had tennis elbow which wouldn't go away until I used the Flexbar.It really works!

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