UKC

Heading out to Cogne next week and trying to put together a couple of backup plans just in case the conditions are against us. Haven't been there before so looking for some advice & recommendations.

I've seen that Ollomont might be an option; anywhere/anything else that can be recommended? We'll have transport so can drive anywhere. After Cogne I've got to drive to France with work, so we could go somewhere entirely different (in that direction) if conditions are really poor.

I've entered 'parto gemellare' into the UKC database on the avalanche tunnels as you approach Cogne. It was recommended by Graeme Ettle.

Some practical things worth noting: Car hire on the Swiss side comes with snow tyres, on the French side it may not. You need to hire chains. (Want to buy some?!)
Driving on Swiss motorways needs a pass (40 SFR) in addition to the tolls.
A return ticket through the Mont Blanc tunnel is much cheaper than two singles.

In reply to 4D6174:

I'm in Cogne right now, just back from climbing Tuborg today. Conditions are fine - there's plenty to go at. The trouble is that everyone else knows this already so it's busy. The routes we've done are very well hooked. The access tracks to all the usual areas are well beaten and give easy travel.

There is a lot of talk here about avalanches - at least among the Brits we've talked to. From what I've seen this week, my thoughts are that if you climb a route a day or two after fresh snow and the sun's hitting the slopes above you then there's every chance of a sluff which could pick up a fair bit of snow and potentially knock you off. That's the only type of avalanche action we've seen and, whilst there's a fair bit of it going on, the ones we've seen were mostly small.

It's snowing now so no doubt there'll be another round of similar activity when the sun comes out again.

Oh - watch out for falling chamois. One nearly landed on out heads today. Not sure how to predict or avoid that objective hazard.

In reply to gjd:

Hi, where did you enter 'Parto gemellare' in the database? We did it last week (great route, and safe in the conditions) and I'd like to upload 2 or 3 photos of it. Thanks.

In reply to gjd:

Thanks that's useful to know, added that to the list. OK for chains, vignette, telepass etc; we're in a works van so got all that stuff

In reply to MadProfessor:
I put the crag as Epinel, but entering parto gemellare in 'search for a climb' will get you there.

In reply to gjd:

Thanks. BTW I will send the pics of you (at least I think you are who I think who are!) on top pitch of Thule later.....

In reply to AdrianC:


With what consequence for the chamois?

In reply to nufkin:

The outcome could be described as poor from the point of view of the chamois.

In reply to AdrianC:

Crag swag! Mmm tasty crag swag...

In reply to Cardi:

Also just back from lots of climbing in Cogne.
Loads of classics are in good nick from Hard Ice in the Rock Direct to Cascade de Lillaz.
We reduced the avalanche risk by trying always to be first on the route and often bagging it at lunch-time or when the sun was hitting the hidden upper slopes. We did back off our first attempt on Hard Ice due to excessive spindrift. but did it a few days later when the snow had settled. When it was chucking it down with snow we went skiing.
That said routes such at Lau Bij or Cascade seemed pretty safe to me most of the time. Personally I wouldn't climb on the Thule/Tuborg side of the valleys on sunny afternoons.
Certain routes were crowded but there was guide assessment going on and the busy climbs varied day-to-day. Worst experience was getting stuck behind 3 Brits on Stalattite di Cristallo. The leader seemed to think it was normal to aid most of his way up and then fell off the last move. Not my idea of ice-climbing.