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For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s (360) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=578039
NOTE:- a training article written by Alex Barrows, it could be useful to some so here it is:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Who's doing the posts for the next few weeks:
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
09/3 - Nick Russell
16/3 - Nick Russell
23/3 – Si Cox
Summary of last week:
MrChewy – Did you get your one day out on Sunday?
Joughton – Currently in Chorro? Expecting big things next week….
Eagle River – indoors getting tedious
Nick Russell - 7 days on last week, did you get that rest day in?
AndrewW – we all feel terrible that you have to endure those warm temps whilst climbing outdoors…
Spud23 – Another week of volume? Where are you bouldering and what kind of grades are you on/aspire to do?
Mattrm – How are the elbows? Are you going for the eccentric loading exercises?
IanRUK – Have you got the visa sorted? Another 90mile week?
PorkPieGirl – Currently in Spain, how has all that training converted to Spanish Limestone?
Exile – That Barrows pdf linked above gives a good explanation of what system you’re working depending on number of moves, if you’re interested.
Mbh – Did you increase the mileage this week and get more hills in?
Curious Yellow – Have you continued with the warm downs post-climb? I’ve never bothered but generally feel pretty ruined at the end of sessions & next day…
Humperdink – How is the heel now?
Grubes – Weather wasn’t much good this week, did you get out on the bike?
Alun – Did you get out bouldering? Sunday looked like the best weather in the North.
Ally Smith – CAVE MASTER, ticking some impressive lines. How have you got on in Spain this week?
Biscuit – Paul is good for the motivational input. Did you get on the beastmaker? Mine’s still in the loft…
Dandan82 – If your STG is a 7b redpoint indoor, in my experience you’ll get up that much quicker by warming up then getting straight on it for multiple attempts, rather than doing 6 routes in the 6th grade before getting into the 7s.
Just Tintin – By doing the plank challenge before climbing are you making the sessions harder for yourself?
Luke Owens – Well done for getting out last Sunday. More gyms sessions this week?
Si Cox – Not surprising to feel not as strong 2nd day on. Did you get the climbing/normal life balance better this week?
JimmyKay – Plenty of bouldering, is this a strength phase for you?
Stevemarkperry – Another well done for getting out, did you manage it again this week?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s (360) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=578039
NOTE:- a training article written by Alex Barrows, it could be useful to some so here it is:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Who's doing the posts for the next few weeks:
23/2 - mbh
02/3 – mbh
09/3 - Nick Russell
16/3 - Nick Russell
23/3 – Si Cox
Summary of last week:
MrChewy – Did you get your one day out on Sunday?
Joughton – Currently in Chorro? Expecting big things next week….
Eagle River – indoors getting tedious
Nick Russell - 7 days on last week, did you get that rest day in?
AndrewW – we all feel terrible that you have to endure those warm temps whilst climbing outdoors…
Spud23 – Another week of volume? Where are you bouldering and what kind of grades are you on/aspire to do?
Mattrm – How are the elbows? Are you going for the eccentric loading exercises?
IanRUK – Have you got the visa sorted? Another 90mile week?
PorkPieGirl – Currently in Spain, how has all that training converted to Spanish Limestone?
Exile – That Barrows pdf linked above gives a good explanation of what system you’re working depending on number of moves, if you’re interested.
Mbh – Did you increase the mileage this week and get more hills in?
Curious Yellow – Have you continued with the warm downs post-climb? I’ve never bothered but generally feel pretty ruined at the end of sessions & next day…
Humperdink – How is the heel now?
Grubes – Weather wasn’t much good this week, did you get out on the bike?
Alun – Did you get out bouldering? Sunday looked like the best weather in the North.
Ally Smith – CAVE MASTER, ticking some impressive lines. How have you got on in Spain this week?
Biscuit – Paul is good for the motivational input. Did you get on the beastmaker? Mine’s still in the loft…
Dandan82 – If your STG is a 7b redpoint indoor, in my experience you’ll get up that much quicker by warming up then getting straight on it for multiple attempts, rather than doing 6 routes in the 6th grade before getting into the 7s.
Just Tintin – By doing the plank challenge before climbing are you making the sessions harder for yourself?
Luke Owens – Well done for getting out last Sunday. More gyms sessions this week?
Si Cox – Not surprising to feel not as strong 2nd day on. Did you get the climbing/normal life balance better this week?
JimmyKay – Plenty of bouldering, is this a strength phase for you?
Stevemarkperry – Another well done for getting out, did you manage it again this week?
In reply to Eagle River:
Goals - are irrelevant if it keeps cocking raining.
Mon: indoor routes. Tried the 2 7c's I'd not been on before, the leading ladder one feels ridiculous but there's another which has a hard crux but I can do it in isolation so that'll be a good route to work on.
Tues: Power Yoga hour
Wed: indoor bouldering. Meant to do circuits but some friends turned up so just bouldered with them. Flashed a V6 then fell 5 times from the top of a V5.
Fri: Full ashtanga yoga primary series (1.5hrs) aching the next day.
Sat: indoor routes. Went to MCC for a change and found some really good routes on the main wall. A much different prospect to stockport's routes which are all sustained, these had shake outs and got me nicely pumped. Wasted by the end of the session.
Getting stir crazy with all this indoor climbing, limestone is screwed for now and the next few weekends are spoken for with weddings. No chance to get outside for the foreseeable future.
Goals - are irrelevant if it keeps cocking raining.
Mon: indoor routes. Tried the 2 7c's I'd not been on before, the leading ladder one feels ridiculous but there's another which has a hard crux but I can do it in isolation so that'll be a good route to work on.
Tues: Power Yoga hour
Wed: indoor bouldering. Meant to do circuits but some friends turned up so just bouldered with them. Flashed a V6 then fell 5 times from the top of a V5.
Fri: Full ashtanga yoga primary series (1.5hrs) aching the next day.
Sat: indoor routes. Went to MCC for a change and found some really good routes on the main wall. A much different prospect to stockport's routes which are all sustained, these had shake outs and got me nicely pumped. Wasted by the end of the session.
Getting stir crazy with all this indoor climbing, limestone is screwed for now and the next few weekends are spoken for with weddings. No chance to get outside for the foreseeable future.
In reply to Eagle River:
Stick with the indoor and just contemplate how strong it will make you. Sunday never happened today, as had a delayed flight back from Dusseldorf yesterday and then straight to an all night Torture Garden in London, drove home and been fitting a new boiler at home today!
However... it was a great week. First attempt at leading 6c.
Mon - Routes. f5 x 4 laps, f5 x 2 laps, 6a+ to top hold, 6c to 4th clip clean, 6b with 2 sits (1st attempt), super steep 6b to 2/3rds with a sit, 6c to 3rd clip. Stuffed.
Sat - Flight delayed, so found some open stairs and did some repeaters and maximal hangs. Got some right odd looks from adults but some little kid came and joined in eventually. He beasted me.
Chuffed with the 6c attempt. I'm guessing it just gets harder but 4 clips clean was a good start as I've not really worked it on top rope. Just 3 to go and the chains. It gets steeper, so I need to get in the boulder room and on the steep panels with no excuses about dodgy knee ligaments - that's what the knee brace is for.
Pretty much stayed on the comp wall and that in itself is progress. The climbing's less technical, more jug pulling and Alex Fry likes to set big moves.
Oh yeah - the 6a+ would have actually been my first but fell as I push the last clip open with my thumb! What a looser.
Some long hours abroad after that put paid to training, so was happy to get some hangs done at the airport. Felt a bit daft to start with but my fingers know they've done a hard session.
Stick with the indoor and just contemplate how strong it will make you. Sunday never happened today, as had a delayed flight back from Dusseldorf yesterday and then straight to an all night Torture Garden in London, drove home and been fitting a new boiler at home today!
However... it was a great week. First attempt at leading 6c.
Mon - Routes. f5 x 4 laps, f5 x 2 laps, 6a+ to top hold, 6c to 4th clip clean, 6b with 2 sits (1st attempt), super steep 6b to 2/3rds with a sit, 6c to 3rd clip. Stuffed.
Sat - Flight delayed, so found some open stairs and did some repeaters and maximal hangs. Got some right odd looks from adults but some little kid came and joined in eventually. He beasted me.
Chuffed with the 6c attempt. I'm guessing it just gets harder but 4 clips clean was a good start as I've not really worked it on top rope. Just 3 to go and the chains. It gets steeper, so I need to get in the boulder room and on the steep panels with no excuses about dodgy knee ligaments - that's what the knee brace is for.
Pretty much stayed on the comp wall and that in itself is progress. The climbing's less technical, more jug pulling and Alex Fry likes to set big moves.
Oh yeah - the 6a+ would have actually been my first but fell as I push the last clip open with my thumb! What a looser.
Some long hours abroad after that put paid to training, so was happy to get some hangs done at the airport. Felt a bit daft to start with but my fingers know they've done a hard session.
Post edited at 12:45
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks, Mr. Eagle.
Better week this time - bit weak from all the disruption, so main goal was to get back into a routine, which I managed.
Focussing on the more sustained, technical problems at V2-4, but slow going.
However, did end off the week with a productive session on Friday. Social time with some of the regulars and ticked off some solid V2-4s.
Long term, the aim is to tick a V5 and break into the next colour bracket, but I reckon it will come through consistency and over a period.
Week of winter mountaineering in Scotland next week, so that will provide a distraction and disruption to the training in equal measure!
Thanks, Mr. Eagle.
Better week this time - bit weak from all the disruption, so main goal was to get back into a routine, which I managed.
Focussing on the more sustained, technical problems at V2-4, but slow going.
However, did end off the week with a productive session on Friday. Social time with some of the regulars and ticked off some solid V2-4s.
Long term, the aim is to tick a V5 and break into the next colour bracket, but I reckon it will come through consistency and over a period.
Week of winter mountaineering in Scotland next week, so that will provide a distraction and disruption to the training in equal measure!
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks for the summary ER.
M - Running 30 mins.
T - Running 30 mins.
W - Outdoors, red-point attempts at project; close but still no big cigar.
T - Resting.
F - Running 30 mins. Fingerboard session. Hip flexibility exercises.
S - Running 30 mins.
S - Climbing outside. Felt weak so didn't try project. Beasted myself doing laps on a 6b+/6b/6a+ circuit. (what grade is 6b+/6b/6a+ without rest - felt pretty nails whatever it is - 6c?).
Thanks for the summary ER.
M - Running 30 mins.
T - Running 30 mins.
W - Outdoors, red-point attempts at project; close but still no big cigar.
T - Resting.
F - Running 30 mins. Fingerboard session. Hip flexibility exercises.
S - Running 30 mins.
S - Climbing outside. Felt weak so didn't try project. Beasted myself doing laps on a 6b+/6b/6a+ circuit. (what grade is 6b+/6b/6a+ without rest - felt pretty nails whatever it is - 6c?).
In reply to Eagle River:
Well, I got my 7a onsight in Chorro - hurrah! Other than that, ticked a lot of great routes in the 6c - 7a range and had several other near misses too. More concentrating on onsighting / flashing stuff rather than serious redpoints. My sole attempt at redpointing a shorter 7a didn't come off as it was getting alarmingly dark so I had to rush my last attempt & pumped out on the really easy top few moves - a tad annoying!
I've also come to the conclusion that very long routes are not my favourite. How can one remember the moves on something 30+m long? For hard stuff around the 20m mark, for a proper redpoint, I'll know every hand and foot placement and can play them back in my mind before I launch off. For 30+m I just don't see how one can do that!
Massive thanks to AJM and Ali Baylay for looking after me for the week. It was great fun.
I intend to take it easy and bimble this week. After that, start training for grit at Easter. We're mainly going to be bouldering but as my grit experience is as near to zero as makes no odds I have no idea how to train for it. Have a nasty feeling I'm going to get spanked. Tentative grit goal would be V4, and if I get on any routes then an E2 would be nice, but is this realistic? I've done V4 on limestone/sandstone stuff and E3 on limestone, Culm and Slate, but I think grit is a different game altogether!
Well, I got my 7a onsight in Chorro - hurrah! Other than that, ticked a lot of great routes in the 6c - 7a range and had several other near misses too. More concentrating on onsighting / flashing stuff rather than serious redpoints. My sole attempt at redpointing a shorter 7a didn't come off as it was getting alarmingly dark so I had to rush my last attempt & pumped out on the really easy top few moves - a tad annoying!
I've also come to the conclusion that very long routes are not my favourite. How can one remember the moves on something 30+m long? For hard stuff around the 20m mark, for a proper redpoint, I'll know every hand and foot placement and can play them back in my mind before I launch off. For 30+m I just don't see how one can do that!
Massive thanks to AJM and Ali Baylay for looking after me for the week. It was great fun.
I intend to take it easy and bimble this week. After that, start training for grit at Easter. We're mainly going to be bouldering but as my grit experience is as near to zero as makes no odds I have no idea how to train for it. Have a nasty feeling I'm going to get spanked. Tentative grit goal would be V4, and if I get on any routes then an E2 would be nice, but is this realistic? I've done V4 on limestone/sandstone stuff and E3 on limestone, Culm and Slate, but I think grit is a different game altogether!
In reply to hms:
Ah, sorry I forgot about you in the summary, it was the double post on week 359 that confused me!
Well done on the 7a onsight.
Ah, sorry I forgot about you in the summary, it was the double post on week 359 that confused me!
Well done on the 7a onsight.
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers ER. Quiet week for me. Chulilla this Thursday
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Boulder.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Boulder. Frustrating session failing to tick a problem I thought was going to go.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Boulder comp. My first and probably last, but it was more fun than expected and I think I did okay although didn't hang around to find out.
Sun - Rest.
Cheers ER. Quiet week for me. Chulilla this Thursday
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Boulder.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Boulder. Frustrating session failing to tick a problem I thought was going to go.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Boulder comp. My first and probably last, but it was more fun than expected and I think I did okay although didn't hang around to find out.
Sun - Rest.
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks Eagle River.
Bad week for me.
M - 9.8 miles, hilly run, 280 m ascent 1:20 ish
T - 6 miles 4 x 1.5 miles loop, 270 m.
By this time the heel of my left foot had become very painful. The pain is on the inside edge, about half way towards the arch. I hobbled around for the rest of the week, then tried it out again today. Gave up after 1.5 miles it hurt so much. Hmmm. I wonder what I have done?
Off to France tonight to see my mother, by bike., That will guarantee at least 2 x 40 mile rides next week, but I am worried about the running.
I should have gone swimming or something during the week, but was too lazy.
Thanks Eagle River.
Bad week for me.
M - 9.8 miles, hilly run, 280 m ascent 1:20 ish
T - 6 miles 4 x 1.5 miles loop, 270 m.
By this time the heel of my left foot had become very painful. The pain is on the inside edge, about half way towards the arch. I hobbled around for the rest of the week, then tried it out again today. Gave up after 1.5 miles it hurt so much. Hmmm. I wonder what I have done?
Off to France tonight to see my mother, by bike., That will guarantee at least 2 x 40 mile rides next week, but I am worried about the running.
I should have gone swimming or something during the week, but was too lazy.
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks ER. Yes, the eccentrics exercises are the plan. I've just had the weights and clips turn up for that so I'll be aiming to do that next week.
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (no change)
M - 300 dish tucks
T - ill
W - ill
T - 300 disk tucks
F - 1.5hrs at wall
S - 300 dish tucks
S - 5k run
Wall session was good. Got about half way up up a 6b and a 6c. Tried a short 6b+ but it was probably too bouldery for me at the moment. I wasn't 100% well on Friday either. I think the 6c will go with a few sessions of effort. I got to half way Resting the elbows was a good plan I reckon. Bearing in mind I'm still fat at the moment, this does bode well. Once a bit of weight is off, then I should be hitting 7a comfortably. Which would be amazingly excellent. Dieted ok during the week. Badly on Saturday. Did ok today. Also spent a lot of time planing so that'll help with the weight loss.
I'll be up in the Lakes the week after next. If the weather is good anyone up for a bouldering session or a couple of short routes?
Week sessions
3 core - 3
2 yoga - no
1 climb - 1
Planned sessions
3 core
5 elbow/shoulder exercise
1 climb
1 fingerboard
Thanks ER. Yes, the eccentrics exercises are the plan. I've just had the weights and clips turn up for that so I'll be aiming to do that next week.
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (no change)
M - 300 dish tucks
T - ill
W - ill
T - 300 disk tucks
F - 1.5hrs at wall
S - 300 dish tucks
S - 5k run
Wall session was good. Got about half way up up a 6b and a 6c. Tried a short 6b+ but it was probably too bouldery for me at the moment. I wasn't 100% well on Friday either. I think the 6c will go with a few sessions of effort. I got to half way Resting the elbows was a good plan I reckon. Bearing in mind I'm still fat at the moment, this does bode well. Once a bit of weight is off, then I should be hitting 7a comfortably. Which would be amazingly excellent. Dieted ok during the week. Badly on Saturday. Did ok today. Also spent a lot of time planing so that'll help with the weight loss.
I'll be up in the Lakes the week after next. If the weather is good anyone up for a bouldering session or a couple of short routes?
Week sessions
3 core - 3
2 yoga - no
1 climb - 1
Planned sessions
3 core
5 elbow/shoulder exercise
1 climb
1 fingerboard
In reply to mbh:
At least you're getting some miles in. I've had 3 weeks off now. Got physio booked for Thursday. Going to go for my first run tomorrow. I'm also going to ratho for the first time so any recommendations would be appreciated. I've packed 3 down jackets to stay warm.
At least you're getting some miles in. I've had 3 weeks off now. Got physio booked for Thursday. Going to go for my first run tomorrow. I'm also going to ratho for the first time so any recommendations would be appreciated. I've packed 3 down jackets to stay warm.
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks ER!
STG:
Get out to do some real bouldering this week dammit!
Boulder Font 7A, Redpoint sport 7b
Regularly ride >100km on road bike. TICK
- new goal: do 135km loop with 2000m of climbing
Lose weight to under 70kg
MTG:
Boulder 7B, Redpoint 7c
Ride Etape Eryri (165km) in Snowdonia in June.
Lose weight to under 67kg
LTG:
Redpoint 8a.
M - T: Real life (work, baby etc) got in the way
T - Lunchtime indoor bouldering. Felt great, ticked some hard problems
F - Lunchtime indoor bouldering. Suffering from previous day, felt weak. Bailed after an hour
S - Nada
S - Couln't go bouldering as wifey had the car. So went cycling - 100km ride in under 4 hours. Quite pleased.
This morning I weighed in at 71.1 kg, so more weight lost. In old money, I've now lost a stone so far this year. But I haven't been climbing outside for weeks now, and it's beginning to annoy me. Hopefully this weekend that'll change!
Thanks ER!
STG:
Get out to do some real bouldering this week dammit!
Boulder Font 7A, Redpoint sport 7b
Regularly ride >100km on road bike. TICK
- new goal: do 135km loop with 2000m of climbing
Lose weight to under 70kg
MTG:
Boulder 7B, Redpoint 7c
Ride Etape Eryri (165km) in Snowdonia in June.
Lose weight to under 67kg
LTG:
Redpoint 8a.
M - T: Real life (work, baby etc) got in the way
T - Lunchtime indoor bouldering. Felt great, ticked some hard problems
F - Lunchtime indoor bouldering. Suffering from previous day, felt weak. Bailed after an hour
S - Nada
S - Couln't go bouldering as wifey had the car. So went cycling - 100km ride in under 4 hours. Quite pleased.
This morning I weighed in at 71.1 kg, so more weight lost. In old money, I've now lost a stone so far this year. But I haven't been climbing outside for weeks now, and it's beginning to annoy me. Hopefully this weekend that'll change!
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks Eagle River, the 7b redpoint target is a bit by-the-by really, i'm happy to let it happen when it happens rather than trying to nail it down, i'm so busy focussing on the training aspect of the climbing sessions I just like to enjoy the rest of the climbing.
That said I had several goes on a 7b and a 7b+ at my local small wall on Saturday, i'd say the two grades are the wrong way round and they are very bouldery (it's a very short wall), the moves are all there for both, i'm just one link short of getting either clean, but it's damn close, especially on the 7b+
M: Core; crunches, knee raise twists, front lever (knees bent)
Fingerboard; CWP wk2 10 sec hangs
T: Chest; bench, dumbell press, dips
Shoulder; barbell raise, arnold press, reverse cable flys
W: Climb; Boulder An Pow, 6 moves, 4 reps, 15 sec rest, 3 sets
T: Decided to rest my poor poor elbows
F:
S: climb indoor; 18+ routes up to 7b+
S:
So I got another PB on the bench, 80kg for 6 reps which was awesome, some real improvement happening there and it really seems to be balancing out with my pulling strength increasing too, who knew that working antagonists made you stronger!
My finger strength is definitely on the up too, the 7b+ I worked had a dynamic-ish right hand snatch with a small left hand crimp in a tight locked off position, I was able to comfortably hold the lock off with the left and reach static to the right hand hold, it felt super hard but super solid at the same time, certainly a better lock off than I am normally able to achieve.
I also tried a campus board for the first time in 9 months, I used to be able to do 1-4-7 on a good day, this time around I could do 1-4-6 straight away, really steadily, and for some reason I chose to do it on a thinner set of rungs! My grip felt great and locking off was really strong.
I rested Thursday following warning signs from my elbows, it seems to have been a good idea, as I had no problems from them on Saturday.
STG: 7b redpoint indoor. - Very close on 7b and 7b+
Stay injury free - tick
MTG: La Carnage as Bas Cuvier in April.
Stay injury free
LTG: 8a repdoint this year
Stay injury free!
Thanks Eagle River, the 7b redpoint target is a bit by-the-by really, i'm happy to let it happen when it happens rather than trying to nail it down, i'm so busy focussing on the training aspect of the climbing sessions I just like to enjoy the rest of the climbing.
That said I had several goes on a 7b and a 7b+ at my local small wall on Saturday, i'd say the two grades are the wrong way round and they are very bouldery (it's a very short wall), the moves are all there for both, i'm just one link short of getting either clean, but it's damn close, especially on the 7b+
M: Core; crunches, knee raise twists, front lever (knees bent)
Fingerboard; CWP wk2 10 sec hangs
T: Chest; bench, dumbell press, dips
Shoulder; barbell raise, arnold press, reverse cable flys
W: Climb; Boulder An Pow, 6 moves, 4 reps, 15 sec rest, 3 sets
T: Decided to rest my poor poor elbows
F:
S: climb indoor; 18+ routes up to 7b+
S:
So I got another PB on the bench, 80kg for 6 reps which was awesome, some real improvement happening there and it really seems to be balancing out with my pulling strength increasing too, who knew that working antagonists made you stronger!
My finger strength is definitely on the up too, the 7b+ I worked had a dynamic-ish right hand snatch with a small left hand crimp in a tight locked off position, I was able to comfortably hold the lock off with the left and reach static to the right hand hold, it felt super hard but super solid at the same time, certainly a better lock off than I am normally able to achieve.
I also tried a campus board for the first time in 9 months, I used to be able to do 1-4-7 on a good day, this time around I could do 1-4-6 straight away, really steadily, and for some reason I chose to do it on a thinner set of rungs! My grip felt great and locking off was really strong.
I rested Thursday following warning signs from my elbows, it seems to have been a good idea, as I had no problems from them on Saturday.
STG: 7b redpoint indoor. - Very close on 7b and 7b+
Stay injury free - tick
MTG: La Carnage as Bas Cuvier in April.
Stay injury free
LTG: 8a repdoint this year
Stay injury free!
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks ER got out on the bile but not enough ..
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
Lose 8kg
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
All rides 5k+ - tick
Learn to cylce up a hill. - Tick Starting to make sense
Circuits or ropes - Tick No ropes but two circuit sessions
2x10mile+ bike rides. - Fail only 1
M: Cycled 25.8k (16miles) 334m ascent.
T: Rest
W: Rokt 2 hours. Bouldered a bit then circuit room. Warmed up flashing the 5+ then the 6a+ with about 30secs rest between. Flash pumped. Tried to flash the 6b+ but arms gave up on a crimpy section. Cruxy circuits :-/
Tried the 7a still had flash pump. Did some bits on the 7b arms still not happy. Bouldered for a bit and came back. Worked the 7b more did better. Bouldered a bit.
T: 30mins stolen afternoon session at holmfirth before rain. warmed up with skin feeling plastic repeating some 5+-6A+ stuff. Tried the 7A felt quite foreign and skin was aweful for rock.
Cycled 10k 116m ascent
2.5 hours at city bloc working then greys and yellows. Decent session to say I have not been there in about a year.
F: Rest
S: Was gonna go out on bike but ended up at vets. Went to reds in leeds ate too much.
then headed to rokt for 2+hours. Bouldered a bit. feeling bloated. Went to the circuit board did the 6a+ again first attempt then did the 5+ with little rest. Then recovered and worked the 7a all the individual moves are fine just working on linking them
S: Headed to he peak but got rained on before I left hudds and saw a traffic Jam so turned around and went to depot.
2 hours doing the comp not climbing a few stupid drops so decided to leave it for another session and worked the reds instead with a mate. much better than previous attempts. Got a new partner for Malham too which always good.
Should of gone out on the bike instead fell asleep on the sofa with my cat .. oh dear.
Next week Goals:
Bike 4 times or more
2 15mile+ rides min
2 rides in a day both <10k
Malham?
Poor week really got in four wall session and a holmfirth blast. nice to be on the project again. Hopefully will go this year with some effort.
> Grubes – Weather wasn’t much good this week, did you get out on the bike?
Thanks ER got out on the bile but not enough ..
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
Lose 8kg
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
All rides 5k+ - tick
Learn to cylce up a hill. - Tick Starting to make sense
Circuits or ropes - Tick No ropes but two circuit sessions
2x10mile+ bike rides. - Fail only 1
M: Cycled 25.8k (16miles) 334m ascent.
T: Rest
W: Rokt 2 hours. Bouldered a bit then circuit room. Warmed up flashing the 5+ then the 6a+ with about 30secs rest between. Flash pumped. Tried to flash the 6b+ but arms gave up on a crimpy section. Cruxy circuits :-/
Tried the 7a still had flash pump. Did some bits on the 7b arms still not happy. Bouldered for a bit and came back. Worked the 7b more did better. Bouldered a bit.
T: 30mins stolen afternoon session at holmfirth before rain. warmed up with skin feeling plastic repeating some 5+-6A+ stuff. Tried the 7A felt quite foreign and skin was aweful for rock.
Cycled 10k 116m ascent
2.5 hours at city bloc working then greys and yellows. Decent session to say I have not been there in about a year.
F: Rest
S: Was gonna go out on bike but ended up at vets. Went to reds in leeds ate too much.
then headed to rokt for 2+hours. Bouldered a bit. feeling bloated. Went to the circuit board did the 6a+ again first attempt then did the 5+ with little rest. Then recovered and worked the 7a all the individual moves are fine just working on linking them
S: Headed to he peak but got rained on before I left hudds and saw a traffic Jam so turned around and went to depot.
2 hours doing the comp not climbing a few stupid drops so decided to leave it for another session and worked the reds instead with a mate. much better than previous attempts. Got a new partner for Malham too which always good.
Should of gone out on the bike instead fell asleep on the sofa with my cat .. oh dear.
Next week Goals:
Bike 4 times or more
2 15mile+ rides min
2 rides in a day both <10k
Malham?
Poor week really got in four wall session and a holmfirth blast. nice to be on the project again. Hopefully will go this year with some effort.
In reply to grubes:
If you need any other partners for Malham let me know. Just back from Siurana and enthused for maintaining route momentum after an entirely ropeless winter.
If you need any other partners for Malham let me know. Just back from Siurana and enthused for maintaining route momentum after an entirely ropeless winter.
In reply to mbh:
When I stuffed in the tendons in my foot (the top not the bottom admittedly) I moved to running on the treadmill and pool running. There's two main ways of doing the pool running. Either get a waterproof bouyancy belt, adjust it till you can float vertically in the deep end and then run without moving. Or pick a pool where you can walk/run along the bottom and do that. I did the latter. But I think the former would be better. Just let a lifeguard know what you're doing as they think you're mad otherwise.
Oh and 12st 4lbs this morning. Woooo!
When I stuffed in the tendons in my foot (the top not the bottom admittedly) I moved to running on the treadmill and pool running. There's two main ways of doing the pool running. Either get a waterproof bouyancy belt, adjust it till you can float vertically in the deep end and then run without moving. Or pick a pool where you can walk/run along the bottom and do that. I did the latter. But I think the former would be better. Just let a lifeguard know what you're doing as they think you're mad otherwise.
Oh and 12st 4lbs this morning. Woooo!
Post edited at 10:09
In reply to hms:
I can sympathise with you on this one having just taken on a 50m redpoint project - even after 3 days on the route I'm struggling to remember key bits of beta
> I've also come to the conclusion that very long routes are not my favourite. How can one remember the moves on something 30+m long? For hard stuff around the 20m mark, for a proper redpoint, I'll know every hand and foot placement and can play them back in my mind before I launch off. For 30+m I just don't see how one can do that!
I can sympathise with you on this one having just taken on a 50m redpoint project - even after 3 days on the route I'm struggling to remember key bits of beta
In reply to Ally Smith:
I tend to stick to short routes with bouldery sequences as they seem to suit me. i.e. I only need to learn 5 moves.
Longer routes I just try remember the crucial bits. i.e. 12 months on I still remeber the sequnce through the steepest parts and crimpy sections on Jam sesion but cant remember any of the fun 6b-6cish start tufa stuff.
Hopefully I will be doing more sport this year so will get back into redpointing.
I tend to stick to short routes with bouldery sequences as they seem to suit me. i.e. I only need to learn 5 moves.
Longer routes I just try remember the crucial bits. i.e. 12 months on I still remeber the sequnce through the steepest parts and crimpy sections on Jam sesion but cant remember any of the fun 6b-6cish start tufa stuff.
Hopefully I will be doing more sport this year so will get back into redpointing.
In reply to Eagle River:
Meant to ask a bit more about you, ER, but got caught up in the moment, trying to put a few notes down.
Intrigued by the power yoga - what is that, and how is it different to normal yoga?
Feel for you with the weather and wedding commitments; is there anything else you can do to keep sane that doesn't involve indoor climbing?
Sometimes I find a run off road or on trails really helps to alleviate the mononteny and boredom.
Meant to ask a bit more about you, ER, but got caught up in the moment, trying to put a few notes down.
Intrigued by the power yoga - what is that, and how is it different to normal yoga?
Feel for you with the weather and wedding commitments; is there anything else you can do to keep sane that doesn't involve indoor climbing?
Sometimes I find a run off road or on trails really helps to alleviate the mononteny and boredom.
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Malham has reverted back to the waterfall it once was, people are now classing it as a potential winter ice venue should the temperature drop enough.
Malham has reverted back to the waterfall it once was, people are now classing it as a potential winter ice venue should the temperature drop enough.
In reply to Si Cox:
The power yoga stuff I get from YouTube. Based usually around positions used in vinyasa flow but focusing on the strong standing sequences, arm balances and core stuff.
I get out walking the dog (in the pissing rain) so it's not time outdoors I'm lacking, it's time on real rock. I do enjoy indoor climbing but without any time on real outdoor projects it all seems a bit goal-less. I'm not bothered about improving my indoor grades as I don't think I'll be able to given the hit or miss route setting at the 7c/8a level (i.e. simply can't do the moves sometimes).
Maybe I'll seek out some quick drying grit in March to get an outdoor rock hit, once the cocking weddings are out of the way.....
Grumble grumble!
The power yoga stuff I get from YouTube. Based usually around positions used in vinyasa flow but focusing on the strong standing sequences, arm balances and core stuff.
I get out walking the dog (in the pissing rain) so it's not time outdoors I'm lacking, it's time on real rock. I do enjoy indoor climbing but without any time on real outdoor projects it all seems a bit goal-less. I'm not bothered about improving my indoor grades as I don't think I'll be able to given the hit or miss route setting at the 7c/8a level (i.e. simply can't do the moves sometimes).
Maybe I'll seek out some quick drying grit in March to get an outdoor rock hit, once the cocking weddings are out of the way.....
Grumble grumble!
In reply to Eagle River:
It is all lies ... you just want the crag to yourself ... LALALALA not listening ...
If you end up looking for grit give me a shout I might head to longridge for a session at somepoint too.
It is all lies ... you just want the crag to yourself ... LALALALA not listening ...
If you end up looking for grit give me a shout I might head to longridge for a session at somepoint too.
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks ER - I can't call myself a cave master yet though as Rock Atrocity is still a pipe dream!
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
L-MTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, T-1 Full Equip, or Humildes pas casa at Oliana? Settled on trying Fish Eye at Oliana – it’s EPIC! 50m of pump (and the odd sneaky knee bar!)
MTG (By end Feb 2014):
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Lou Ferrino sans pocket, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Must try harder to control weight – 76.5kg and 6.8% BF this morning.
- Get in the groove with aero-power training – embrace the pump.
The week just gone:
M - Can’t remember.
T - Boardroom – Aero-cap 4x4's with Luke Owens. 4x steep 7a, 4x fingery 7a, 4x steep 7b (x2). Got in the groove by the end of the session, but still would prefer something longer locally to get stuck into - might come up with a traverse in to the bottom of the route to add some moves?
W - Nowt – ate far too much on expenses.
T - Full day meeting, race to Gatwick, delayed flight to Barca, delayed hire-car collection, 3:30am arrival at accommodation.
F - Oliana! Shakey 7a OS warm-up then got straight down to business. Twice up Fish Eye to jug at end of steep bit. 8b/+ to here? 2nd go wore a kneepad and found a reasonable rest. Felt rinsed afterwards. Drove to Andorra to get new trousers after an embarrassing ripping sound accompanied one of my attempts at the crux!
S - Back at the big O. Fell on 7a slab warm-up (should’ve been on the 6b+ - oops). Cool 7a+ tufa for a proper warm-up. Then got new Fish Eye beta from Team Oz for high crux and knee bar beta for low crux from Team USA. Got cold trying headwall and couldn’t work it out at all. Sacked off 2nd dogging go and did 7b OS instead. Uber sausage meal and free digestif liquor.
S - Rained overnight. Tres Ponts was super grim. Couple of 6b/+ things with numb hands. Back to big O. 7a+ tufa. Then twice up Fish Eye. Mastered kneebar beta for low crux but reverted to original for high crux. Must train gaston moves and pinch holds whilst spanned out. Took clip stick up on 2nd go and worked out a method for headwall. Thin 7c/+ from jug to top? Need to finesse this section.
Race back to airport and home before midnight = successful weekend!
Thanks ER - I can't call myself a cave master yet though as Rock Atrocity is still a pipe dream!
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
L-MTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, T-1 Full Equip, or Humildes pas casa at Oliana? Settled on trying Fish Eye at Oliana – it’s EPIC! 50m of pump (and the odd sneaky knee bar!)
MTG (By end Feb 2014):
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Lou Ferrino sans pocket, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Must try harder to control weight – 76.5kg and 6.8% BF this morning.
- Get in the groove with aero-power training – embrace the pump.
The week just gone:
M - Can’t remember.
T - Boardroom – Aero-cap 4x4's with Luke Owens. 4x steep 7a, 4x fingery 7a, 4x steep 7b (x2). Got in the groove by the end of the session, but still would prefer something longer locally to get stuck into - might come up with a traverse in to the bottom of the route to add some moves?
W - Nowt – ate far too much on expenses.
T - Full day meeting, race to Gatwick, delayed flight to Barca, delayed hire-car collection, 3:30am arrival at accommodation.
F - Oliana! Shakey 7a OS warm-up then got straight down to business. Twice up Fish Eye to jug at end of steep bit. 8b/+ to here? 2nd go wore a kneepad and found a reasonable rest. Felt rinsed afterwards. Drove to Andorra to get new trousers after an embarrassing ripping sound accompanied one of my attempts at the crux!
S - Back at the big O. Fell on 7a slab warm-up (should’ve been on the 6b+ - oops). Cool 7a+ tufa for a proper warm-up. Then got new Fish Eye beta from Team Oz for high crux and knee bar beta for low crux from Team USA. Got cold trying headwall and couldn’t work it out at all. Sacked off 2nd dogging go and did 7b OS instead. Uber sausage meal and free digestif liquor.
S - Rained overnight. Tres Ponts was super grim. Couple of 6b/+ things with numb hands. Back to big O. 7a+ tufa. Then twice up Fish Eye. Mastered kneebar beta for low crux but reverted to original for high crux. Must train gaston moves and pinch holds whilst spanned out. Took clip stick up on 2nd go and worked out a method for headwall. Thin 7c/+ from jug to top? Need to finesse this section.
Race back to airport and home before midnight = successful weekend!
In reply to Ally Smith:
sounds like an awesome weekend Ally.
I may be over cheshire way thursday if you can get in a session somewhere?
sounds like an awesome weekend Ally.
I may be over cheshire way thursday if you can get in a session somewhere?
In reply to Eagle River:
Humperdink – How is the heel now?
Thanks again for putting this up.
Goals: STG (Feb/Mar) - Finish in top 3 overall in XC league (tick). Beat last years position in the National XC Champs. Represent county at the Inter-counties XC
MTG (April-Aug) - Make the A team for the 12-Stage road relays. Improve my track PB's (sub-2 800, sub-4 1500, sub-15 5K)
LTG (end of 2014) - Sub-31 10K, Run a half
So after a conversation with the physio it turns out that I've torn the peroneal tendon in my ankle - not good! Therefore a week of not much running:
M: am - 30mins bike in gym, 1 x glutes set, 1 x core set. pm - 60 mins bike in gym
Tu: am - 30mins bike in gym, 1 x Leg set. pm - Bike session - 9,7,5,3,5,7min hard off 1 min, 65min total
W: am - 30mins X-trainer, 1 x glutes set. pm - stupidly went for a run 5Mile easy in 35:51 foot really sore.
Th: am - 1 x Leg set, 1 x 360 set, 1 x glute set. pm - 2 x leg set, 1 x core set
F: pm - Bike Session 8 x 5min off 1min, 65min total, 1 x leg set, 1 x glute set
Sa: gym closed!
Su: spent 90mins digging out fence posts as my fence had blown down.
Total : 5M. Am gutted I've managed to pick up an injury and it dosn't seem to have improved much this week despite taking ibuprofen etc. Fairly sure I won't be running the national XC champs on Sat which is what all of the work over the winter has been building towards. With hindsight maybe I should have been more sensible eg not racing when ill and coming back more slowly. Another week of cross training awaits....
Humperdink – How is the heel now?
Thanks again for putting this up.
Goals: STG (Feb/Mar) - Finish in top 3 overall in XC league (tick). Beat last years position in the National XC Champs. Represent county at the Inter-counties XC
MTG (April-Aug) - Make the A team for the 12-Stage road relays. Improve my track PB's (sub-2 800, sub-4 1500, sub-15 5K)
LTG (end of 2014) - Sub-31 10K, Run a half
So after a conversation with the physio it turns out that I've torn the peroneal tendon in my ankle - not good! Therefore a week of not much running:
M: am - 30mins bike in gym, 1 x glutes set, 1 x core set. pm - 60 mins bike in gym
Tu: am - 30mins bike in gym, 1 x Leg set. pm - Bike session - 9,7,5,3,5,7min hard off 1 min, 65min total
W: am - 30mins X-trainer, 1 x glutes set. pm - stupidly went for a run 5Mile easy in 35:51 foot really sore.
Th: am - 1 x Leg set, 1 x 360 set, 1 x glute set. pm - 2 x leg set, 1 x core set
F: pm - Bike Session 8 x 5min off 1min, 65min total, 1 x leg set, 1 x glute set
Sa: gym closed!
Su: spent 90mins digging out fence posts as my fence had blown down.
Total : 5M. Am gutted I've managed to pick up an injury and it dosn't seem to have improved much this week despite taking ibuprofen etc. Fairly sure I won't be running the national XC champs on Sat which is what all of the work over the winter has been building towards. With hindsight maybe I should have been more sensible eg not racing when ill and coming back more slowly. Another week of cross training awaits....
In reply to mbh:
Difficult to know but it could be plantar fasciitis.... one thing to try is to take a small (travel size) deorderant or similar and use it like a mini foam roller by rolling the bottom of your foot on it. It'll be sore but will help break down any scar tissue in the fascia.
Difficult to know but it could be plantar fasciitis.... one thing to try is to take a small (travel size) deorderant or similar and use it like a mini foam roller by rolling the bottom of your foot on it. It'll be sore but will help break down any scar tissue in the fascia.
In reply to mattrm:
Hehe that reminds me - I've been asked by lifeguards on more than one occasion what the hell I am doing when I've been aqua jogging You also get strange looks from the people swimming in the slow lane when they overtake you! Its harder to do without a belt but its a really good workout - you can move along the pool but you still have to make sure that most of the force is going downwards otherwise you sink.....
Hehe that reminds me - I've been asked by lifeguards on more than one occasion what the hell I am doing when I've been aqua jogging You also get strange looks from the people swimming in the slow lane when they overtake you! Its harder to do without a belt but its a really good workout - you can move along the pool but you still have to make sure that most of the force is going downwards otherwise you sink.....
In reply to Ally Smith:
V interesting reading your updates Ally, hope you get back out here to Catalunya soon.
One (very pedantic) bit of trivia for you, which many Brits don't realise: Barça refers to the football team only, never the city!
V interesting reading your updates Ally, hope you get back out here to Catalunya soon.
One (very pedantic) bit of trivia for you, which many Brits don't realise: Barça refers to the football team only, never the city!
In reply to mattrm and Humperdink,
Thanks for the suggestions. I will try the roller ball idea and will need to do some gym stuff in the short term, I guess. The swim/run thing sounds worthwhile, and fun, but also a recipe for getting in everyone's way. Maybe if I go outside length swimming times it will be OK.
The foot doesn't feel like plantar fasciitis, it hurts all the time and is not worst when I get up in the morning, as pf was when I had it. I cycled all day today and it was fine, but the moment I ran back down a steep hill to help my wife, it hurt . Sigh.
Thanks for the suggestions. I will try the roller ball idea and will need to do some gym stuff in the short term, I guess. The swim/run thing sounds worthwhile, and fun, but also a recipe for getting in everyone's way. Maybe if I go outside length swimming times it will be OK.
The foot doesn't feel like plantar fasciitis, it hurts all the time and is not worst when I get up in the morning, as pf was when I had it. I cycled all day today and it was fine, but the moment I ran back down a steep hill to help my wife, it hurt . Sigh.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Noticed you weren't appearing on Strava. Bad luck, but if you can play football on it perhaps things are on the up. Hope so.
Noticed you weren't appearing on Strava. Bad luck, but if you can play football on it perhaps things are on the up. Hope so.
Post edited at 19:49
In reply to Ally Smith:
Sounds like a good start Ally. Let me know when you have definite dates for the rematch and I'll come and watch.
Top recommendation on Ramallar btw. Tried it the end of the day today, got to the second tufa stub kneebar (~25m?), got into a blind alley above and fell off, too beasted to top it (running out of daylight so couldn't really recover). And the view from the side has definitely put franceses high up on the list.
Sounds like a good start Ally. Let me know when you have definite dates for the rematch and I'll come and watch.
Top recommendation on Ramallar btw. Tried it the end of the day today, got to the second tufa stub kneebar (~25m?), got into a blind alley above and fell off, too beasted to top it (running out of daylight so couldn't really recover). And the view from the side has definitely put franceses high up on the list.
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks for doing ER - and thanks for the pointer re training types. Woody at the wall going in today and tomorrow though so I think a month of power is in order!
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: pm: 50min fell run, 40min antagonistic weights and core
T: pm: 1hr 30 PE traverses at wall. Ticked the white L - R, 7a+/7b?
W: pm: 40min road run
T: Rest
F: 50min dry tooling - in mountain boots rather than approach shoes
S: Rest
S: 6hrs winter climbing. Harder mixed stuff in the Lakes wasn't in so went for some lakes esoterica and did the girdle traverse of St. Sundays crag - 700m grade III - a great adventure!
Weight this morning 11st 10lb.
Not quite enough time at the wall, due to work, but great to get some more winter climbing in so ok week all in all.
Thanks for doing ER - and thanks for the pointer re training types. Woody at the wall going in today and tomorrow though so I think a month of power is in order!
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: pm: 50min fell run, 40min antagonistic weights and core
T: pm: 1hr 30 PE traverses at wall. Ticked the white L - R, 7a+/7b?
W: pm: 40min road run
T: Rest
F: 50min dry tooling - in mountain boots rather than approach shoes
S: Rest
S: 6hrs winter climbing. Harder mixed stuff in the Lakes wasn't in so went for some lakes esoterica and did the girdle traverse of St. Sundays crag - 700m grade III - a great adventure!
Weight this morning 11st 10lb.
Not quite enough time at the wall, due to work, but great to get some more winter climbing in so ok week all in all.
In reply to AJM:
Cool - got the pad on the left knee? You must've done 7b's worth to get there?
It's fairly conventional tufa to the final overlap - GO RIGHT! My knee slotted into a bit of a scum before committing to the finish; which comes with a run-out warning - then rock back left into the niche and belay above.
Cool - got the pad on the left knee? You must've done 7b's worth to get there?
It's fairly conventional tufa to the final overlap - GO RIGHT! My knee slotted into a bit of a scum before committing to the finish; which comes with a run-out warning - then rock back left into the niche and belay above.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Sounds like a good start to the Fish Eye campaign pal!
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers ER! Yeah, did plenty of training this week, feeling really fit on the routes at the moment. Doing plenty of Aerocap training and it's helping me loads. I've gone from getting completely powered out and boxed half way up 6b+'s (2 months ago) to not even needing to shake out on 7a's at the wall. Bizarre but feels great!
I feel like I should have a good chance at some harder on-sights this year.
Monday: Light Aerocap - 30 minutes & 1 hour stretching
Tuesday:
Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips
Off-set Pull Ups: 2 x 6 Reps 2 x 7 Reps 2 x 10 Reps
3 x 10 Hammer Curls
3 x 10 Dubbell Front Raises (10kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Evening Session: Hit the Boardroom with Ally for some 4x4's.
Warm up: 5+, 6a, 6b+
4x4's - Set 1: 4 x 6b+ (Steep), Set 2: 4 x 6b (Technical), Set 3: 4 x 6b+ (Fingery), Set 4: 4 x 6b+ (Fingery)
Stretching for 1 hour
Wednesday:
Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull-ups, 10 Dips
Weighted Deadhangs (Front 3, open hand, 20mm edge)
Progressive set: 2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg -10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
Main set: 10kg - 10 secs, 10kg - 10 secs, 12.5kg - 10 secs
Evening Session: Light Aerocap - 30 minutes
Thursday: Boardroom routes
5, 5+, 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6c+, 7a, 7a, 6c+ (Everything felt easy, didn't get pumped at all...?!)
Warm Down - 6 x V3/V4
Friday:
12 Wide Grip Pull-ups, 10 Dips
Weighted Deadhangs (Front 3, open hand, 20mm edge)
Progressive Set: 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs
Main Set: 3 x 12.5kg - 10secs, 15kg - 9secs (PB!)
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Ran around on the beach with the little one
Sounds like a good start to the Fish Eye campaign pal!
In reply to Eagle River:
> Luke Owens – Well done for getting out last Sunday. More gyms sessions this week?
Cheers ER! Yeah, did plenty of training this week, feeling really fit on the routes at the moment. Doing plenty of Aerocap training and it's helping me loads. I've gone from getting completely powered out and boxed half way up 6b+'s (2 months ago) to not even needing to shake out on 7a's at the wall. Bizarre but feels great!
I feel like I should have a good chance at some harder on-sights this year.
Monday: Light Aerocap - 30 minutes & 1 hour stretching
Tuesday:
Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips
Off-set Pull Ups: 2 x 6 Reps 2 x 7 Reps 2 x 10 Reps
3 x 10 Hammer Curls
3 x 10 Dubbell Front Raises (10kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Evening Session: Hit the Boardroom with Ally for some 4x4's.
Warm up: 5+, 6a, 6b+
4x4's - Set 1: 4 x 6b+ (Steep), Set 2: 4 x 6b (Technical), Set 3: 4 x 6b+ (Fingery), Set 4: 4 x 6b+ (Fingery)
Stretching for 1 hour
Wednesday:
Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull-ups, 10 Dips
Weighted Deadhangs (Front 3, open hand, 20mm edge)
Progressive set: 2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg -10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
Main set: 10kg - 10 secs, 10kg - 10 secs, 12.5kg - 10 secs
Evening Session: Light Aerocap - 30 minutes
Thursday: Boardroom routes
5, 5+, 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6c+, 7a, 7a, 6c+ (Everything felt easy, didn't get pumped at all...?!)
Warm Down - 6 x V3/V4
Friday:
12 Wide Grip Pull-ups, 10 Dips
Weighted Deadhangs (Front 3, open hand, 20mm edge)
Progressive Set: 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs
Main Set: 3 x 12.5kg - 10secs, 15kg - 9secs (PB!)
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Ran around on the beach with the little one
In reply to Eagle River:
Visa approved today.. still not got it but touch wood..
Entries now sorted, invited to 3 major US ultra's so far, accomodation, fees, entries covered at various ones.
m: am: 5 mile fell run Clachnabenn. pm: 7.2 mile road run 6:50 pace
t: 16.5 mile trail run drumtochy forest
w: 8 mile trail run fetteroso. pm: 5 mile treadmill with 1 x5k effort
t: 15.3 mile road run 6:36 pace for a hilly loop.
f: 15 mile fell run 900 m ascent, Maell a Buachaille
s: am: 8.1 miles nethy bridge. pm: 3 mile road run
s: am: 8.3 miles. drove aberdeen > sheff pm: 4.1 miles
5th 90+ mile week.. so pretty happy, felt good on the hills so happy where I am right now and US move looks on..
Visa approved today.. still not got it but touch wood..
Entries now sorted, invited to 3 major US ultra's so far, accomodation, fees, entries covered at various ones.
m: am: 5 mile fell run Clachnabenn. pm: 7.2 mile road run 6:50 pace
t: 16.5 mile trail run drumtochy forest
w: 8 mile trail run fetteroso. pm: 5 mile treadmill with 1 x5k effort
t: 15.3 mile road run 6:36 pace for a hilly loop.
f: 15 mile fell run 900 m ascent, Maell a Buachaille
s: am: 8.1 miles nethy bridge. pm: 3 mile road run
s: am: 8.3 miles. drove aberdeen > sheff pm: 4.1 miles
5th 90+ mile week.. so pretty happy, felt good on the hills so happy where I am right now and US move looks on..
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers ER, yeah shuffled some things around to take some rest at the start of the week.
M - swimming (2.5km)
T - rest
W - TCA. Trying the green problems (6A+ - 6C). Some good stuff on there, flashed about 3, got about 3 more pretty quickly, failed on a couple.
T - Yoga
F - Swimming (2.4km). Working on backend speed as I've noticed I've been runnnig out of steam at about 50m.
S - Driving
S - Winter climbing on Liathach, we did Poacher's Fall, the classic V,5 in that neck of the woods!
A good week, and an epic weekend! I figured if I was going to get any winter climbing done, I was going to have to pick a weekend and go where the conditions looked best. This weekend, the best (only?) conditions were to be found in Torridon (600 miles from Bristol), so we went there. It was definitely worth it, excellent ice on Poacher's Fall and we even had sunshine and good views from the top!
Yesterday we practically ran up to to Sinister Prong (IV,5/6?) then ran back down. Back in the car and on the way back by 13:00 (6 1/2 hours round trip). Another good route, just a couple of tricky steps and a bold pitch to finish. Less good weather, with white-out on the top, heavy snow turning to rain as we lost height on the way down.
I don't expect to do much training this week, with recovering from last weekend and another weekend away planned (not climbing this time).
Short term goals (February)
Maintain similar volume to the start of the month. Get some quality endurance sessions in, e.g. 4x4s.
One winter climbing weekend. Tick! Epic winter weekend warrior trip to Torridon!
At least 2 days climbing outdoors. If I count 2 days winter, I've done it. Not what I had in mind though.
Medium term goals (March)
Some winter climbing. Tick! See above.
Stick to the training plan that I finalise this month. This week's probably a write-off. Enter week 5/12 on the 24th.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Current best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Total to date: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 61/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr. Teams gala end of March. Probably only 50m relays, but good race experience.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
> Nick Russell - 7 days on last week, did you get that rest day in?
Cheers ER, yeah shuffled some things around to take some rest at the start of the week.
M - swimming (2.5km)
T - rest
W - TCA. Trying the green problems (6A+ - 6C). Some good stuff on there, flashed about 3, got about 3 more pretty quickly, failed on a couple.
T - Yoga
F - Swimming (2.4km). Working on backend speed as I've noticed I've been runnnig out of steam at about 50m.
S - Driving
S - Winter climbing on Liathach, we did Poacher's Fall, the classic V,5 in that neck of the woods!
A good week, and an epic weekend! I figured if I was going to get any winter climbing done, I was going to have to pick a weekend and go where the conditions looked best. This weekend, the best (only?) conditions were to be found in Torridon (600 miles from Bristol), so we went there. It was definitely worth it, excellent ice on Poacher's Fall and we even had sunshine and good views from the top!
Yesterday we practically ran up to to Sinister Prong (IV,5/6?) then ran back down. Back in the car and on the way back by 13:00 (6 1/2 hours round trip). Another good route, just a couple of tricky steps and a bold pitch to finish. Less good weather, with white-out on the top, heavy snow turning to rain as we lost height on the way down.
I don't expect to do much training this week, with recovering from last weekend and another weekend away planned (not climbing this time).
Short term goals (February)
Maintain similar volume to the start of the month. Get some quality endurance sessions in, e.g. 4x4s.
One winter climbing weekend. Tick! Epic winter weekend warrior trip to Torridon!
At least 2 days climbing outdoors. If I count 2 days winter, I've done it. Not what I had in mind though.
Medium term goals (March)
Some winter climbing. Tick! See above.
Stick to the training plan that I finalise this month. This week's probably a write-off. Enter week 5/12 on the 24th.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Current best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Total to date: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 61/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr. Teams gala end of March. Probably only 50m relays, but good race experience.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
In reply to Eagle River:
Very rarely does plank challenge take place before climbing session so converted to straight arms rather than elbows to get a nice wrist stretch as a distraction! I am unusually tired all the time at the moment, but suspect that is more due to not having trained this much in a long time and body getting used to it…so should get better? It's not that I'm not resting!
So last week, 2 mins plank every day then:
M - Rest
T – Leading Brookes. Warm-up (forgot to actually stretch!) then lots of routes 6a-6c. Got pumped very early. Recovery drink.
W - Rest
T - Rest
F – Bouldering Milton Keynes. Vb-v1 x 11 V0-v2 x 3 V2-v3 x 8 V3-v5 x 4 V4-v6 x 1. Recovery lentil salad.
S – Cottage woodchopping. Rain in Peak - boo! Wirksworth wall bouldering circuits and a nice 6c+ lead
S – Bouldering Robin Hood’s Stride/Cratcliffe. Is Cave Wall really a V3?
(First Feb outing on rock done!!!)
Very rarely does plank challenge take place before climbing session so converted to straight arms rather than elbows to get a nice wrist stretch as a distraction! I am unusually tired all the time at the moment, but suspect that is more due to not having trained this much in a long time and body getting used to it…so should get better? It's not that I'm not resting!
So last week, 2 mins plank every day then:
M - Rest
T – Leading Brookes. Warm-up (forgot to actually stretch!) then lots of routes 6a-6c. Got pumped very early. Recovery drink.
W - Rest
T - Rest
F – Bouldering Milton Keynes. Vb-v1 x 11 V0-v2 x 3 V2-v3 x 8 V3-v5 x 4 V4-v6 x 1. Recovery lentil salad.
S – Cottage woodchopping. Rain in Peak - boo! Wirksworth wall bouldering circuits and a nice 6c+ lead
S – Bouldering Robin Hood’s Stride/Cratcliffe. Is Cave Wall really a V3?
(First Feb outing on rock done!!!)
Post edited at 11:27
In reply to Eagle River:
Hello everyone, thanks Steve.
I got back from from 9 days in Costa Blanca yesterday. My stated goal was to improve my 7a onsight stats which I did not do and in fact my stats got worse - I didn't onsight any! I did get close to 2 though and I had a brilliant trip anyway ticking some really good routes.
At the start of the holiday I think put myself under a bit of pressure to get some 7a onsights which meant I wasn't relaxed when I was climbing. The corollary being that I climbed badly and wasn't getting any 7a onsights. About half way through the holiday I stopped beating myself up about it and started enjoying the climbing for its own sake. All a bit zen, man, and I started climbing a bit better.
My climbing partner, who climbs much harder than me, said he thought my main issue with not getting routes done is lack of confidence and remembering sequences for red points, both of which I've been told before but seem to keep forgetting. hmm.
Anyway:
Mon: 10.4km trail run Costa Blanca, 404m ascent, 6.29/km.
Tues: Gandia. 6a and 6b warm up. RPed A La Babilla, 7a+, 5th RP. Dogged a 7a, Gallo de la Susannah Alba.
Weds: Gandia. 6a and 6b warm up, then RPed the 7a from Tuesday. Took me 4 RPs!
Thurs: L'Ocaive. 6a, 6a+ and 6b+ warm up. Dogged a 7a, Trocha Calimnotaxa.
Fri: 14.2km trail run, 687m ascent. 7.50/km.
Sat: L'Ocaive. 6a and 6a+ warm up then RPed the 7a from Thursday, think it was probably 3rd or 4th RP.
Sun: L'ocaive. 6a and 6b warm up then RPed a 7a, Tengo. Close to the onsight but yelled take instead of digging in.
Mon: Pinos. 6b and 6b+ warm up then dogged up 2 x 7as and 1 x 6c+. Close to onsighting one of the 7as but probably a bit knackered for the other.
Ace trip. Gandia and L'Ocaive are both ace crags. Loads more to do at Gandia .
Hello everyone, thanks Steve.
I got back from from 9 days in Costa Blanca yesterday. My stated goal was to improve my 7a onsight stats which I did not do and in fact my stats got worse - I didn't onsight any! I did get close to 2 though and I had a brilliant trip anyway ticking some really good routes.
At the start of the holiday I think put myself under a bit of pressure to get some 7a onsights which meant I wasn't relaxed when I was climbing. The corollary being that I climbed badly and wasn't getting any 7a onsights. About half way through the holiday I stopped beating myself up about it and started enjoying the climbing for its own sake. All a bit zen, man, and I started climbing a bit better.
My climbing partner, who climbs much harder than me, said he thought my main issue with not getting routes done is lack of confidence and remembering sequences for red points, both of which I've been told before but seem to keep forgetting. hmm.
Anyway:
Mon: 10.4km trail run Costa Blanca, 404m ascent, 6.29/km.
Tues: Gandia. 6a and 6b warm up. RPed A La Babilla, 7a+, 5th RP. Dogged a 7a, Gallo de la Susannah Alba.
Weds: Gandia. 6a and 6b warm up, then RPed the 7a from Tuesday. Took me 4 RPs!
Thurs: L'Ocaive. 6a, 6a+ and 6b+ warm up. Dogged a 7a, Trocha Calimnotaxa.
Fri: 14.2km trail run, 687m ascent. 7.50/km.
Sat: L'Ocaive. 6a and 6a+ warm up then RPed the 7a from Thursday, think it was probably 3rd or 4th RP.
Sun: L'ocaive. 6a and 6b warm up then RPed a 7a, Tengo. Close to the onsight but yelled take instead of digging in.
Mon: Pinos. 6b and 6b+ warm up then dogged up 2 x 7as and 1 x 6c+. Close to onsighting one of the 7as but probably a bit knackered for the other.
Ace trip. Gandia and L'Ocaive are both ace crags. Loads more to do at Gandia .
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Gandia is good isn't it. I think I did the same 7a+ (left of l'os?) and remember having to dig in for it.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Yes, left pad in place, got hands off at the first tufa stub and a good dropknee and kneebar combo at the second, not hands off though.
Basically got stuck in some wide bridging above and couldn't reach the hold and was a bit too far gone to reverse and try and change position. Felt like I'd out in a 7bs worth of effort, but gives me hope for chasing 7b+ as I could have kept plugging up if I hadn't got stuck, if that makes sense, I wasn't terminally pumped until I'd spent a while ground to a halt trying to extricate myself. Gonna try and get back up there some point and figure the top, see how feasible it is in the time I've got (usual story, too many awesome looking lines, too little time)...
Gandia is good isn't it. I think I did the same 7a+ (left of l'os?) and remember having to dig in for it.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Yes, left pad in place, got hands off at the first tufa stub and a good dropknee and kneebar combo at the second, not hands off though.
Basically got stuck in some wide bridging above and couldn't reach the hold and was a bit too far gone to reverse and try and change position. Felt like I'd out in a 7bs worth of effort, but gives me hope for chasing 7b+ as I could have kept plugging up if I hadn't got stuck, if that makes sense, I wasn't terminally pumped until I'd spent a while ground to a halt trying to extricate myself. Gonna try and get back up there some point and figure the top, see how feasible it is in the time I've got (usual story, too many awesome looking lines, too little time)...
> My climbing partner, who climbs much harder than me, said he thought my main issue with not getting routes done is lack of confidence and remembering sequences for red points, both of which I've been told before but seem to keep forgetting.
NEWSFLASH !
:-P
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers ER.
Mon - routes up to 7a plus. Doubled 7a plus and 6c plus. Half hr run. About 4 .miles
Tue - bike 18m. 1hr 30.
6 mins quicker than last week
Campus moving feet between moves. Pinched from Alex Barrow's training pdf. Managed 5sets of 1min but had to go to big rungs to complete it. Very painful. Perfect.
Wed - 10 routes up to 7a plus finished by doubling 6c+ 6c.
1 hr later doubles session.
7a plus/6c plus x3
6c plus x1
Thursday and Friday were rest.
Planned weekend of climb and big bike ride didn't happen due to me forgetting I actually had to work.
Did an after work autobelay session. 5plus, 6a plus, 6b plus, 7a. Repeated the 7a 8 times with no rest then stopped due to boredom. ( It's soft )
On the plus side I got my beastmaker up.
On the downside my scales say I am fat.
Cheers ER.
Mon - routes up to 7a plus. Doubled 7a plus and 6c plus. Half hr run. About 4 .miles
Tue - bike 18m. 1hr 30.
6 mins quicker than last week
Campus moving feet between moves. Pinched from Alex Barrow's training pdf. Managed 5sets of 1min but had to go to big rungs to complete it. Very painful. Perfect.
Wed - 10 routes up to 7a plus finished by doubling 6c+ 6c.
1 hr later doubles session.
7a plus/6c plus x3
6c plus x1
Thursday and Friday were rest.
Planned weekend of climb and big bike ride didn't happen due to me forgetting I actually had to work.
Did an after work autobelay session. 5plus, 6a plus, 6b plus, 7a. Repeated the 7a 8 times with no rest then stopped due to boredom. ( It's soft )
On the plus side I got my beastmaker up.
On the downside my scales say I am fat.
In reply to Eagle River:
Bad week with shifts this week so not much done.
Bouldering at the climbing station - 2 laps of each circuit at v1 and v2 followed by dead hangs and pull ups on the balls (attempts rather)
Gym session Monday Wednesday Thursday Saturday and Sunday consisting of low rows, deep chest, press ups, pull ups, dips and flys on the TRX and static bars.
Aiming to bump grades up to v4/5 and f7a over this year as well as moving outside.
Bad week with shifts this week so not much done.
Bouldering at the climbing station - 2 laps of each circuit at v1 and v2 followed by dead hangs and pull ups on the balls (attempts rather)
Gym session Monday Wednesday Thursday Saturday and Sunday consisting of low rows, deep chest, press ups, pull ups, dips and flys on the TRX and static bars.
Aiming to bump grades up to v4/5 and f7a over this year as well as moving outside.
In reply to Eagle River:
Back from Siurana. Had a really great time. Rather than a blow by blow account, am logging my holiday "pyramid" below. Spent a good bit of time getting back into roped climbing on the first week. Seemed to pay off in the second week, two highlights were a 7a on the third go, which is quite quick for me, and red pointing a really long impressive 6c+ up the El Calgol tower. Got a new ticklist for the area, having explored a bit more, can't wait to go back before too long.
Sadly this is likely to be a bit of a false season opener for me as I have 7 weeks visiting Penn State University starting soon, and it looks very barren for climbing, 1 hr 20 drive to nearest wall... possibly some mountain biking but going to be snowy to start with. Might have to embrace some kind of gym related fitness....the horror!
6a: 4 os
6a+: 2 os
6b: 2 os
6b+: 3 rp
6c: 2 rp (one on top rope)
6c+: 2 rp (one on top rope)
7a: 1 rp
STG: Not go stir crazy while on a 2 month visit to Penn State University
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
Back from Siurana. Had a really great time. Rather than a blow by blow account, am logging my holiday "pyramid" below. Spent a good bit of time getting back into roped climbing on the first week. Seemed to pay off in the second week, two highlights were a 7a on the third go, which is quite quick for me, and red pointing a really long impressive 6c+ up the El Calgol tower. Got a new ticklist for the area, having explored a bit more, can't wait to go back before too long.
Sadly this is likely to be a bit of a false season opener for me as I have 7 weeks visiting Penn State University starting soon, and it looks very barren for climbing, 1 hr 20 drive to nearest wall... possibly some mountain biking but going to be snowy to start with. Might have to embrace some kind of gym related fitness....the horror!
6a: 4 os
6a+: 2 os
6b: 2 os
6b+: 3 rp
6c: 2 rp (one on top rope)
6c+: 2 rp (one on top rope)
7a: 1 rp
STG: Not go stir crazy while on a 2 month visit to Penn State University
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
In reply to spud_23:
Not sure how to edit a post but cancel last. Not sure what the grades on the circuits were so don't quote me! I managed them easily enough so I'd say around that grade..
Not sure how to edit a post but cancel last. Not sure what the grades on the circuits were so don't quote me! I managed them easily enough so I'd say around that grade..
In reply to Nomics4sale:
It's not all about the numbers (you may have to quote this back at me next week...), and sounds like you got some good ticks even if they weren't onsights!
ER - Thanks for doing fit club and apologies I've been away a bit - work has been super manic recently with flooding and all, as well as trying to get stuff tied up before I leave. Thus training has gone down the pan. But yes I am def up for climbing weekend after next, though I'm guessing hopes of getting outside may be slim?!
Anyway last week:
M-F - nothing as working then up to hull Friday night
Sat - boulder session - good fun, tried quite hard on some stuff but also feeling weak (esp core). Did a few pull ups/push ups and leg lifts to finish
Sun - 35 min run, brunch then 5mile or so walk - lovely day!
Off to Chulilla tomorrow...my goal for this trip is to redpoing a 7b (or 7b+ if poss) and have a good go at some 7a onsight attempts. Not sure how realistic that is given I have pretty much not climbed or trained for about 3 weeks, but we'll see how things go!
It's not all about the numbers (you may have to quote this back at me next week...), and sounds like you got some good ticks even if they weren't onsights!
ER - Thanks for doing fit club and apologies I've been away a bit - work has been super manic recently with flooding and all, as well as trying to get stuff tied up before I leave. Thus training has gone down the pan. But yes I am def up for climbing weekend after next, though I'm guessing hopes of getting outside may be slim?!
Anyway last week:
M-F - nothing as working then up to hull Friday night
Sat - boulder session - good fun, tried quite hard on some stuff but also feeling weak (esp core). Did a few pull ups/push ups and leg lifts to finish
Sun - 35 min run, brunch then 5mile or so walk - lovely day!
Off to Chulilla tomorrow...my goal for this trip is to redpoing a 7b (or 7b+ if poss) and have a good go at some 7a onsight attempts. Not sure how realistic that is given I have pretty much not climbed or trained for about 3 weeks, but we'll see how things go!
Post edited at 20:59
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Cheers! Excited Need to crack on with packing...
Cheers! Excited Need to crack on with packing...
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Please pester AJM into finishing El Ramallar. Sounds like he could do it quickly...
Please pester AJM into finishing El Ramallar. Sounds like he could do it quickly...
In reply to Ally Smith:
If I get time boss, if I get time!
I had a decent crack at Danos, that 7b+ you recommended on the far right of Oasis where the path comes up, yesterday. Fell off the last hard move of the low crux, the skinned finger was leaking profusely round the finger tape (long story. Motto: if you need to clipstick a bolt, bring your clipstick, twigs don't work as well) so came down, bit of a rest, then pulled the rope and led straight through. Suppose that's a ground up, having had experience of the first few bolts before and then onsight all the way up the stamina section to the top. Nearest to a 7b+ onsight yet.
Onsight attempts on Nivelungos and Franceses (and that 7b you recommended on sex shop) on the list for the next few days out I hope, then a bigger project if possible for the last few days, either Ramallar or maybe Tequila or something near if (Moon Safari? Bufa? Not sure).
If I get time boss, if I get time!
I had a decent crack at Danos, that 7b+ you recommended on the far right of Oasis where the path comes up, yesterday. Fell off the last hard move of the low crux, the skinned finger was leaking profusely round the finger tape (long story. Motto: if you need to clipstick a bolt, bring your clipstick, twigs don't work as well) so came down, bit of a rest, then pulled the rope and led straight through. Suppose that's a ground up, having had experience of the first few bolts before and then onsight all the way up the stamina section to the top. Nearest to a 7b+ onsight yet.
Onsight attempts on Nivelungos and Franceses (and that 7b you recommended on sex shop) on the list for the next few days out I hope, then a bigger project if possible for the last few days, either Ramallar or maybe Tequila or something near if (Moon Safari? Bufa? Not sure).
In reply to AJM:
Great stuff - sounds like 7b+ OS is just around the corner.
Moon Safari and Ramallar are the soft touches, although Tequila sunrise was ace i'd recommend the others if you're limited on time.
Don't forget to have a day doing the via ferrata too.
Great stuff - sounds like 7b+ OS is just around the corner.
Moon Safari and Ramallar are the soft touches, although Tequila sunrise was ace i'd recommend the others if you're limited on time.
Don't forget to have a day doing the via ferrata too.
In reply to AJM:
Gooooo AJM!!!!
It's been a great week so far for me. Nearly onsighted a 6b+ last night (fell trying to latch the final hold...) and I'm on 12st 2lbs.
Gooooo AJM!!!!
It's been a great week so far for me. Nearly onsighted a 6b+ last night (fell trying to latch the final hold...) and I'm on 12st 2lbs.
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers dude. Another good training week for general fitness, all good for the Alps trips. Only one bouldering session, more maintenance than anything.
This Week:
Weight: ~138 lbs
Training Hours: 8:40hrs
Pitches (lead/2nd/total): 0/0/0
MTB Rides: 5
Walks / Scrambles: 1
M: Rest
T: 27km / 1:30hr mountain bike
W: 1:00hr indoor bouldering (woody session focusing on technique and power)
T: 12km / 1:00hr mountain bike morning + 23km / 1:30hr mountain bike afternoon
F: 15km / 0:40hr turbo leg spinner
S: 2:00hr Macc Forest and Teggs Nose walk
S: 20km / 1:00hr mountain bike
STG:
Drunk Enough 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Sleeping With The Flowers 7A (Roaches)
10 pitches per week, lead or second
Get fit for Alps trips this year: 3 x mountain bike rides per week and/or long walking & scrambling days.
MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate winter experience
Get out to the Alps (trip booked for June!)
500 pitches this year, lead or second (lead/second/total): 0/0/0)
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
VLTG (dreams):
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Hard Alpine routes
Something on the NF Grand Jurasses...
Cheers dude. Another good training week for general fitness, all good for the Alps trips. Only one bouldering session, more maintenance than anything.
This Week:
Weight: ~138 lbs
Training Hours: 8:40hrs
Pitches (lead/2nd/total): 0/0/0
MTB Rides: 5
Walks / Scrambles: 1
M: Rest
T: 27km / 1:30hr mountain bike
W: 1:00hr indoor bouldering (woody session focusing on technique and power)
T: 12km / 1:00hr mountain bike morning + 23km / 1:30hr mountain bike afternoon
F: 15km / 0:40hr turbo leg spinner
S: 2:00hr Macc Forest and Teggs Nose walk
S: 20km / 1:00hr mountain bike
STG:
Drunk Enough 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Sleeping With The Flowers 7A (Roaches)
10 pitches per week, lead or second
Get fit for Alps trips this year: 3 x mountain bike rides per week and/or long walking & scrambling days.
MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate winter experience
Get out to the Alps (trip booked for June!)
500 pitches this year, lead or second (lead/second/total): 0/0/0)
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
VLTG (dreams):
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Hard Alpine routes
Something on the NF Grand Jurasses...
In reply to Eagle River:
this will be a vague update...
so.. i went to spain last wednesday... before that i worked out and did some easy bouldering (mon and tuesday)
i've had one fooked up time in spain...
a.. the bloke i went away with a totally none compatible partner and who went home after two days.. only wanted to climb easy stuff.. very negative all the time regarding me trying harder stuff.. like climbing with a corpse... totally pissed on my mojo..
b.. thank god nomics and her pal were there to play out with with their mega psyche and patience.. and then a couple of other mates came over once nomics and Aaron went home ..who were also bags of fun and good team psyche, but i didn't settle into the climbing until my last day.. totally unsettled by the drama of what happened earlier on in week..and probably the hassle of life lately
c.. onwards and fooking upwards!!!!!!
i don't want to be specific about what i managed to climb.. i dogged a lot, onsighted quite a bit of 6c/6c+.. dogged 7a.. lacked fight to redpoint.. lacked fight to dog up anything harder.. only one way to go from here :O)
plus side on the last day i climbed nicely.. awesome support from mates.. my endurance was cracking.. felt sort of funny and exciting hanging around on stuff that would've felt too powerful to try more than once last year.. but i was able to work things out instead of sitting on the rope..
other positives.. apartment on beach..awesome views .. esp sunrise.. just a treat..i ran every day on the beach and had a couple of runs up the penon, did three beach workouts.. pull ups and core.. listened to some good tunes in my apartment.. improved my driving in spain.. loved travelling alone.. music blasting..
so .. this is my update for next week too... as got back late thursday
PPG :O)
this will be a vague update...
so.. i went to spain last wednesday... before that i worked out and did some easy bouldering (mon and tuesday)
i've had one fooked up time in spain...
a.. the bloke i went away with a totally none compatible partner and who went home after two days.. only wanted to climb easy stuff.. very negative all the time regarding me trying harder stuff.. like climbing with a corpse... totally pissed on my mojo..
b.. thank god nomics and her pal were there to play out with with their mega psyche and patience.. and then a couple of other mates came over once nomics and Aaron went home ..who were also bags of fun and good team psyche, but i didn't settle into the climbing until my last day.. totally unsettled by the drama of what happened earlier on in week..and probably the hassle of life lately
c.. onwards and fooking upwards!!!!!!
i don't want to be specific about what i managed to climb.. i dogged a lot, onsighted quite a bit of 6c/6c+.. dogged 7a.. lacked fight to redpoint.. lacked fight to dog up anything harder.. only one way to go from here :O)
plus side on the last day i climbed nicely.. awesome support from mates.. my endurance was cracking.. felt sort of funny and exciting hanging around on stuff that would've felt too powerful to try more than once last year.. but i was able to work things out instead of sitting on the rope..
other positives.. apartment on beach..awesome views .. esp sunrise.. just a treat..i ran every day on the beach and had a couple of runs up the penon, did three beach workouts.. pull ups and core.. listened to some good tunes in my apartment.. improved my driving in spain.. loved travelling alone.. music blasting..
so .. this is my update for next week too... as got back late thursday
PPG :O)
In reply to pork pie girl:
Hey, Thelma/Louise, drivin' down the highway, chin up! Apart from the first two days, that doesn't sound so bad!
Hey, Thelma/Louise, drivin' down the highway, chin up! Apart from the first two days, that doesn't sound so bad!
In reply to pork pie girl:
Good climbing partners are worth their weight in gold. Sounds like you had a bad one
also don't discount the fact you've not been on rock much. I felt like a fish out of water in chorro a few weeks back. Lesson learned and I'll have a day or two of easy climbing first this time.
Great you're taking the positives. Doesn't sound like there were many negatives really. Apartment sounds well nice.
Good climbing partners are worth their weight in gold. Sounds like you had a bad one
also don't discount the fact you've not been on rock much. I felt like a fish out of water in chorro a few weeks back. Lesson learned and I'll have a day or two of easy climbing first this time.
Great you're taking the positives. Doesn't sound like there were many negatives really. Apartment sounds well nice.
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