/ Ultra Lightweight Trad Rack

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snapperdan - on 16 Feb 2014
I'm looking to combine a bit of fell running with some climbing this summer, so I can tick off some routes on high moorland crags in the Peak, but I don't fancy soloing routes miles away from anyone!

I won't be looking to climb at my limit, so I'm prepared to carry a minimal rack, probably just a set of nuts, a couple of slings, five quickdraws and a few carabiners ect.

Hopefully I can split the rack with a partner and we can fit everything in a couple of small 20 litre OMM sacks.

The one thing which is bugging me is what rope to take? Could I get away with using a light 25m half rope as a single? I'm not anticipating taking big lobs on it - it would be more of a confidence thing really...

Like these chaps maybe? http://www.mountain-lite.co.uk/index.cfm?action=article.read&articleId=637CD185-A5A6-93BC-939B61...

highclimber - on 16 Feb 2014
In reply to snapperdan:

If you don't intend on falling hard then a half rope would be fine - people used to climb on static hemp ropes back in the day!
Monk - on 16 Feb 2014
In reply to snapperdan:

Most of the time when you fall on a route, only one of the pair will hold the fall. I've climbed on just one half before quite happily.
deacondeacon - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to snapperdan:

I'd forget harnesses and belay plates too and just tie round the waste and body belay. That'll save a good bit of weight. Also with the nuts take only the odd sizes 1, 3, 5 etc as you can place them on their side for the other sizes.
You could also leave the slings, especially for grit style routes.
I don't know anything about fell running but i'm sure some of the shoes must be better than others for climbing too. Might save you having to carry climbing shoes up.
snapperdan - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to deacondeacon:

Cheers for the replies. I was thinking about sharing a harness and body belaying too. As for fell shoes some wouldn't be bad for climbing, but I wear Salomon Fellraisers and they're a bit too clunky to be decent.

I'm hoping the whole experiment will help me climb much faster, lighter and efficiently, so I can start tackling big enchantments in Snowdonia and things like the Stanage VS challenge....
David Coley - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to snapperdan:

Not sure about the body belay unless you have held a lead fall using one before! No point taking the rope and wires unless the system will work when you slip. Just take a carabiner and use an Italian hitch with the rope tied around your waist.
AlanLittle - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to deacondeacon:

I wouldn't fancy my chances of holding a fall on a waist belay on a single teflon-coated 8.5
alooker - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to AlanLittle:
no, me neither. Especially in a minimal running clothes! Better to use direct belay anchors and an italian hitch. Or carry a lightweight harness!
Post edited at 12:09
Bob on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to snapperdan:

You can use an 8ft sling as a makeshift harness - slightly more comfortable than tying in round the waist.

Walsh fell running shoes with slightly worn down soles are fine for climbing in - they fit snugly - and are certainly OK up to VS depending on route.
snapperdan - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to Bob:

I bet Walshes would be good actually - I've got a pair of PB Racers I can dig out.
Jimbo C - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to snapperdan:

Missing out even numbered nuts is a good trick. Reminds me of a day I had on Great End (Winter climbing) where we were expecting to mostly solo. The 'rack' consisted of a length of half rope, 4 nuts, 2 quickdraws, 2 screwgates and 2 slings. It turned out to be laughably inadequate since we ended up pitching quite a bit.

I do wonder, since you are planning on grit routes, whether you would be better carrying, say 5 cams, no nuts and less quickdraws. Nuts are good, and light, but there are some grit routes where nothing except cams will give comfort.
snapperdan - on 17 Feb 2014
In reply to Jimbo C:

I know what you mean - Half set of nuts and a full set of torque nuts could work - four of them probably weigh less than a big cam and you don't need extra draws for them...
alooker - on 20 Feb 2014
In reply to snapperdan:

half rope, either a 50m single in half or a single 25-30m would work, half set of nuts, a few cams, some quick draws and a fair few slings. Cams rather than hexes as I find hexes can be a massive pain in some cracks and wastes more time than they're worth. Cams straight in and out, extendable slings useful to save taking a ton of QDs. Cams are def worth the extra weight for gritstone.

Bring a nut key!
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The Pylon King on 20 Feb 2014
In reply to snapperdan:
> I'm hoping the whole experiment will help me climb much faster, lighter and efficiently, so I can start tackling big enchantments in Snowdonia and things like the Stanage VS challenge....

Yes they are very enchanting :)
Post edited at 15:18

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