/ Ultra Lightweight Trad Rack
I won't be looking to climb at my limit, so I'm prepared to carry a minimal rack, probably just a set of nuts, a couple of slings, five quickdraws and a few carabiners ect.
Hopefully I can split the rack with a partner and we can fit everything in a couple of small 20 litre OMM sacks.
The one thing which is bugging me is what rope to take? Could I get away with using a light 25m half rope as a single? I'm not anticipating taking big lobs on it - it would be more of a confidence thing really...
Like these chaps maybe? http://www.mountain-lite.co.uk/index.cfm?action=article.read&articleId=637CD185-A5A6-93BC-939B61...
If you don't intend on falling hard then a half rope would be fine - people used to climb on static hemp ropes back in the day!
Most of the time when you fall on a route, only one of the pair will hold the fall. I've climbed on just one half before quite happily.
I'd forget harnesses and belay plates too and just tie round the waste and body belay. That'll save a good bit of weight. Also with the nuts take only the odd sizes 1, 3, 5 etc as you can place them on their side for the other sizes.
You could also leave the slings, especially for grit style routes.
I don't know anything about fell running but i'm sure some of the shoes must be better than others for climbing too. Might save you having to carry climbing shoes up.
Cheers for the replies. I was thinking about sharing a harness and body belaying too. As for fell shoes some wouldn't be bad for climbing, but I wear Salomon Fellraisers and they're a bit too clunky to be decent.
I'm hoping the whole experiment will help me climb much faster, lighter and efficiently, so I can start tackling big enchantments in Snowdonia and things like the Stanage VS challenge....
Not sure about the body belay unless you have held a lead fall using one before! No point taking the rope and wires unless the system will work when you slip. Just take a carabiner and use an Italian hitch with the rope tied around your waist.
I wouldn't fancy my chances of holding a fall on a waist belay on a single teflon-coated 8.5
no, me neither. Especially in a minimal running clothes! Better to use direct belay anchors and an italian hitch. Or carry a lightweight harness!
You can use an 8ft sling as a makeshift harness - slightly more comfortable than tying in round the waist.
Walsh fell running shoes with slightly worn down soles are fine for climbing in - they fit snugly - and are certainly OK up to VS depending on route.
I bet Walshes would be good actually - I've got a pair of PB Racers I can dig out.
Missing out even numbered nuts is a good trick. Reminds me of a day I had on Great End (Winter climbing) where we were expecting to mostly solo. The 'rack' consisted of a length of half rope, 4 nuts, 2 quickdraws, 2 screwgates and 2 slings. It turned out to be laughably inadequate since we ended up pitching quite a bit.
I do wonder, since you are planning on grit routes, whether you would be better carrying, say 5 cams, no nuts and less quickdraws. Nuts are good, and light, but there are some grit routes where nothing except cams will give comfort.
I know what you mean - Half set of nuts and a full set of torque nuts could work - four of them probably weigh less than a big cam and you don't need extra draws for them...
half rope, either a 50m single in half or a single 25-30m would work, half set of nuts, a few cams, some quick draws and a fair few slings. Cams rather than hexes as I find hexes can be a massive pain in some cracks and wastes more time than they're worth. Cams straight in and out, extendable slings useful to save taking a ton of QDs. Cams are def worth the extra weight for gritstone.
Bring a nut key!
Yes they are very enchanting :)
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