UKC

Visiting Malaga next September for a mates wedding. Nerja to be exact. Any ideas where I can find good easyish trad routes in the HS-HVS range?

El chorro looks quite hard and is bolted.

Steve

In reply to steve maher:

Hey Steve,

Best you'll find in the area around HS/HVS is the Penon Grande in Grazalema, about 30mins drive from Ronda. Really nice place, you can climb all day without seeing anyone else about. Nice quiet campsite at the base of the Penon too, giving you a 20min approach to the climbing. You can find topos on the Escalada en Cadiz guide but they are very vague and to be honest you can just show up and climb any line you want as there really isnt anything harder than HVS on it.

Plenty of quality sport climbing below the town too.

In reply to steve maher:

Forgot to mention that routes are around 8-9 pitches long. Abseil descent (4X30m abs if I remember correctly), though theres also a very tricky walk/scramble descent which is near impossible to explain to you on here.

In reply to king_of_gibraltar:


great info! sounds perfect, is there many routes there? ill be in the area a few days

In reply to steve maher:

On the guide book theres loads of routes marked up but tbh it's really hard to find them. Here's a pic I took a few years back( https://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisdurante/4303499891/ ), when we referred to the guide we seemed to have combined a few of the lines marked out but It's quite easy to navigate this one. A few of the belays are bolted, and the descent is also bolted (bolts are marked with orange tags for easy finding), the descent comes down a gully to the left of the face (can't be seen on the pic) and is quite obvious when you top out and stand on the top.