This week we've had a couple of slightly more effective thaw periods which have started to transform the snow. Up until Tuesday of this week we still had not had an effective thaw high up on Ben Nevis.
I climbed Observatory Ridge on Tuesday and found great (if slightly wet) firm snow low down on the route (giving easy but unprotected climbing) but in the top half it was dry snow right the way down to the rocks. The snow was not stuck to the rocks and the rime ice was feathery and useless for climbing.
The Curtain and The Curtain Rail have had several ascents, Newbiggins Far Right Variation was climbed but is a bit spicy still and The Shroud remains big and fat. So mid-level climbs are best for ice climbing.
The great ridges have all been climbed and enjoyed in the snowy conditions.
Gullies high up are now being transformed but also have a good selection of large cornices to add spice.
It looks like we will have a substantial thaw with rain to the summit on Sunday followed by colder (but still windy) conditions next week. Fingers crossed for this to firm up the snow and allow us to enjoy the classic ice climbs.
In the meantime, come along to Fort William Mountain Festival. Sandy Allan and Mick Fowler with Andy Nisbet being presented with the Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture on Saturday 22nd.
http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/
Mike Pescod
