UKC

Please 'eliminate' my confusion

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 Otis 28 Feb 2014
Flicking through guidebooks and the comments on the UKC logbooks I keep seeing routes being labelled or described as 'eliminate'.

I've been baffled for a little while now, so was hoping someone might be able to put me out of my misery and explain this element of climbing lingo to me!

Cheers,

Mike.
 JimboWizbo 28 Feb 2014
In reply to Otis:

Certain holds aren't allowed. For hands and/or feet.
 Andy Hardy 28 Feb 2014
In reply to Otis:

Often used to describe a route which is squeezed in between others, or takes the same line but ignores some features e.g. if you do one of the embankment routes at Millstone using both cracks is VS, using only one is E1 (from memory, no guidebook)

 The Pylon King 28 Feb 2014
In reply to Otis:
Generally used for escapable non-lines between lines where the non-line is harder than the lines that straddle it.

For example you could have a couple of VS crack lines 3 metres apart and the wall between them gives a route of E1.
Post edited at 17:11
 tlm 28 Feb 2014
In reply to Otis:

UKC Glossary is your friend...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=33

although I do think the traditional meaning of a route using the space between other, more obvious, lines has been a bit subverted by the bouldering use of not using particular features or holds.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 28 Feb 2014
In reply to all:
Don't forget great routes like Eliminate A, Parker's Eliminate, Right Eliminate, Brown's Eliminate, North Crag Eliminate amongst others, which don't fit your definition in any way


Chris
Post edited at 17:15
 Al Evans 28 Feb 2014
In reply to Otis:

When I first did Parkers Eliminate as far as I know it was the only route on the wall (picture once the mods approve). To the left became Sunshine Superman also not an eliminate, Shortly after I put up what is now called Fade Away which has somehow got credited to Harry Venables and is definitely an eliminate to the right of Parkers Eliminate.
Al
 The Pylon King 28 Feb 2014
In reply to Chris Craggs:

ah yes but they are in the name and not in the description
 bpmclimb 28 Feb 2014
In reply to Otis:

Sometimes eliminates are the stronger lines. On slabs, for example, the original routes can wander around a bit seeking out the easier climbing, but without following really obvious natural features. On such crags the later (and usually harder) routes forge stronger, direct lines.
 jon 28 Feb 2014
In reply to Al Evans:

> When I first did Parkers Eliminate as far as I know it was the only route on the wall (picture once the mods approve). To the left became Sunshine Superman also not an eliminate, Shortly after I put up what is now called Fade Away which has somehow got credited to Harry Venables and is definitely an eliminate to the right of Parkers Eliminate.

Glad you cleared that one up, Al.

 bpmclimb 28 Feb 2014
In reply to Al Evans:

As a matter of interest, why did you call it Parker's Eliminate? Were certain holds out of bounds? Or were you anticipating this sort of discussion? If so, fair play for patiently waiting since 1957
 Sean Kelly 28 Feb 2014
In reply to Al Evans:

> When I first did Parkers Eliminate as far as I know it was the only route on the wall (picture once the mods approve). To the left became Sunshine Superman also not an eliminate, Shortly after I put up what is now called Fade Away which has somehow got credited to Harry Venables and is definitely an eliminate to the right of Parkers Eliminate.

The time to be upset Al, was if the route had been credited to Terry Venables!


 Al Evans 01 Mar 2014
In reply to bpmclimb:


> As a matter of interest, why did you call it Parker's Eliminate? Were certain holds out of bounds? Or were you anticipating this sort of discussion? If so, fair play for patiently waiting since 1957

I didn't do the first ascent of PE, I think it was done by Al Parker.
 bpmclimb 01 Mar 2014
In reply to Al Evans:

Ah yes, Al Parker. Thought it would be going some
OP Otis 01 Mar 2014
In reply to Otis:

Thanks everyone for the explanation-I shall now look slightly less flummoxed when reading my guide books

Mike
 duchessofmalfi 02 Mar 2014


It also means something different when referring to bouldering:

Often a boulder with have loads of holds and the eliminates will be problems using a only a sub-set of the holds - you can find diagrams which number the holds and have problems like "holds 8, 21, 3, 4 99"
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