/ How do your nuts hang?

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ow arm - on 04 Mar 2014
At the mo ive just got all my nuts on a large solid gate Karabiner, this is ok for the easier routes im doing now as a beginner but I could imagine it being hard to get one nut out of a bunch with only one hand and not risk dropping some down a crag.

How do you carry yours - any tips for a novice?
JayPee630 - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

Three krabs, DMM sizes 1-6 on one krab, DMM sizes 7-11 on another, and a krab with Wild Country sizes 4-8 on another.
scott quinn - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to JayPee630:

Yeh split them up like Jay says above, another thing is the crab itself... go for clean nose crabs makes life easier!

I think oval crabs make it slighly easier to drop some precious pro down the crag aswell might be an idea to avoid them, although some people swear by them :S



rocky57 - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

If you are that bothered about losing them off a single karabiner then split them as mentioned above (JP). Another option is to put all your even numbers on one krab, and odds on another krab. That way if do drop one krab at least you will have a good spread of sizes. Mind you, you'll need to be good at judging what size you want when you reach for either krab.

Also, I'm more in favour of a krab with a nose, that's due to the fact that a couple of times I've had a nut slip and catch on it and thereby avoid several of them following. Plus I was climbing with someone who had clean nose krabs for his nuts, and I was thanking my lucky stars I was wearing a helmet the day I got showered by a handful of his nuts.
timjones - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to scott quinn:

> Yeh split them up like Jay says above, another thing is the crab itself... go for clean nose crabs makes life easier!


Opinions differ on this, it also makes it easier to drop individual nuts off the krab ;(

crayefish - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

I have micros - 4 on one, 4 - 8 on the next and 8-11 on the last. It's worth having an overlap across the sizes as it's easier to get the right krab.
scott quinn - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to timjones:

Certainly does, I've fallen foul of this myself, somewhat similar to rocky57's example of showering the second! (with nuts before anyone comments haha)

But when your in a strenuous position at full stretch trying desperately to get that wire above your head the clean nose wins it for me.

Definately has its cons though, I suppose most people would prefer the extra struggle than waving goodbye to 10 as it takes flight - but i'm used to them now and wouldnt go back!
timjones - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to scott quinn:

> Certainly does, I've fallen foul of this myself, somewhat similar to rocky57's example of showering the second! (with nuts before anyone comments haha)

> But when your in a strenuous position at full stretch trying desperately to get that wire above your head the clean nose wins it for me.

> Definately has its cons though, I suppose most people would prefer the extra struggle than waving goodbye to 10 as it takes flight - but i'm used to them now and wouldnt go back!

If in doubt place the nut, clip and then remove the rest with the krab as you pass the gear.

TBH I'm not sure about the need for clean nose krabs. I can't think of any occasions when I've had a problem without them.
SteveoS - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

I go for a 4,4,3 with a full DMM set with added swag I go 4,6,4.
Rog Wilko on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

The system I've settled on, after for a long time separating them into small, medium and large is to spread them out on to four crabs. So I have large and small Wallnuts on two, and large and small Rocks on the other two. That way, if I were to be clumsy enough to drop one crab with all its nuts I won't have completely lost all of that range of sizes. However, as a beginner you may not have enough nuts to warrant 4 crabs, so my contribution probably isn't much help.
ow arm - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to Rog Wilko:

thanks everybody very handy tips, im glad i asked then.
professionalwreckhead - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:
Someone on here recommended a BD Oval wiregate for racking and they've been absolutely perfect for me.

I tend to split over three krabs, smaller than finger size, about finger size, larger than finger size. That way it's easier for me to guess what krab to start with!
Post edited at 12:13
markh554 on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

slightly low!
nniff - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

The single thing most important thing that I learned relatively recently is that I find it far easier to pick the right size out of a bunch if they all face the same way. Order doesn't matter, but direction does. If only I'd worked that out thirty years ago instead of just a few years ago.

It may just be me, of course. I may sit to the stranger side of normal on the autistic spectrum.....
Orgsm on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to timjones:
> If in doubt place the nut, clip and then remove the rest with the krab as you pass the gear.

A good 16 years ago a friend was leading the second pitch of a route in the lakes. He did exactly as you say above and intended to pick up the Krabs and nuts as he climbed passed. After 20 feet of desperate climbing and rain starting to fall he decided to place another nut. He fumbled around unable to find his nuts. He shouted down to me asking if I could see his Krabs and nuts. Yes I said, they're dangling 15 feet beneath you on that last bit of gear. He finished the climb but with somewhat less gear placed than recommended.
Post edited at 13:33
Jimbo C - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

I have some decent sized keylock solid gate krabs for racking my nuts. My standard single pitch set up is one for sizes 1 to 5 with the odd micro thrown in and one for sizes 6 to 11. If it's a long and nutty pitch I also have a krab of alloy offsets and a krab full of tiny micros that hopefully never have to be used.
SuperLee1985 - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to nniff:

Agreed, but OCD tends to make most people (including me) rack them up all facing the same way anyway.
I have a combination of Peenuts, Wallnuts and offsets on 3 Krabs. Seems to work quite well.
Peenuts and 1-2 wallnuts on one crab, 3-7 wallnuts + offsets 7-9 on the seccond, and wallnuts 8-11 + offsets 10-11 on the 3rd.
I toyed with a 4th Krab but this clutters your harness a bit increases the chance that you dont pull out the right se first time.
cyberpunk - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

I have 2 sets plus a set of RPs and various micro wires.

BD Oval wire gates

1 Biner with sizes 1-4 and 1 number 5
1 Biner 5-8
1 Biner 8 - 10
1 Biner RPs and Micros

Jonny2vests - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:
I prefer a set on each side, 1-8. Then if I drop one of them, I still have the full range.

Taking micros or big nuts depends on the route.
Post edited at 15:10
buxtoncoffeelover - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

When you have doubled up on nuts you might need 6 krabs- 3 on left/right gear loops, so you can reach with either hand with ease while desperately hanging on!!! I also split quickdraws on harness for same reason. On long pitches I always seem to need (at least) 2 pieces the same size!!
Nik
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alooker - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:
You'll find a way that works for you.

I use ovals, the nuts hang better in a bunch.

I have 3 carabiners normally, smalls (micros - 4), mediums (4-7) and large (7-10). I like to carry brass micros etc on the same carabiner as the smalls, having micros on yet another carabiner seems like a faff to me when they're such a similar range to the smalls. I also make sure that there's an overlap between the 3 carabiners, I'm more likely to be able to use the first one I grab then.

Split between these 3 are a couple of sets of nuts, set of alloy offsets and a set of brass offsets. I don't carry the full 2 sets of nuts, but I have them around in case I need them.

If I'm doing a long easy route/alpine climbing where I've stripped down the rack a bit I might carry 2 carabiners with a half set on each (odds on one, evens another). This just means that I don't drop all my nuts in a certain size range if I fumble.
Post edited at 16:22
David Coley - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

Oval carabiners with a nose. Small, medium, large (bass micros on a separate carabiner). Use different coloured electrical tape to mark the three carabiners and use the same coloured tape to mark the corresponding nuts. This makes re-racking on a multipitch much faster even for the second whose rack it isn't. No more "do you carry the 6 with the 7, or with the 5" type conversations.

At the top of the route just dump the wires into coloured piles and scoop them up and onto the corresponding carabiners.

When leading you can just look down and grab the right set by its colour. No more trying to find which carabiner holds the medium nuts.

It is hard to describe how much difference this makes!

(See chapter 4 of http://www.multipitchclimbing.com/ for a photo)
GrahamD - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

One thing to consider is the route length. On grit its very rare you need to carry more than a single set which reduces clutter considerably. Basically choose the amount of stuff you carry to suit the route.

On longer routes, split between multiple krabs using the system of your choice.
Blue Straggler - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to Orgsm:

I've done the "clip the rope with all the nuts still attached" thing enough times now to have learned not to do it. Seems a good idea at the time, when you are scared, but it ALWAYS seems to be a real pain to get the other krab. Sometimes, indeed, to the point where I consider leaving the whole lot behind! I wouldn't recommend it.
spidermonkey09 - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:
This is such a personal thing, always makes me laugh when I see how precise people are with their system- I'm the same!

I have two sets of wires with offsets as well, so I carry small, medium and large on a different biner with the offsets scattered around. I also have two crabs of micros which rarely get placed!

I hate oval biners but a lot of people swear by them. Also if you find you're grabbing the wrong biner a lot nail varnish on the top is a cheap, if a bit feminine way of marking them out.

If you have the DMM wallnut set the top 3 sizes are like hexes anyway so they may as well be on a separate crab, then split the rest onto two as well and you'll be good to go :)

Experiment with a few different systems and you'll find one that works for you. Downside is you will also become unable to climb with anyone elses gear!
Post edited at 17:10
Trangia - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

I'm nothing like as organised as some on here. I just rack my wires onto two separate old krabs. Half with small to medium sized nuts and half with medium to large sized nuts.

I certainly wouldn't use a gated krab for racking - too fiddly to use one handed. I keep the wire on the racking krab whilst placing the nut, then unclip the wire, and reclip the racking krab to my gear loop before clipping the placed wire and threading the rope. This reduces the risk of dropping anything from a single wire and nut to the whole bunch.
Duncan Bourne - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

The other advantages of spreading your nuts over several Krabs (I just know there is a joke in there somewhere) are a) it helps to spread the load on the belt for comfort and ease of access if nothing else. and b) you always have some gear within reach for those occasions where you are locked off with one hand and need the other to get the gear. Reaching around a belt is no fun in extremis
Martin Hore - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

Yep - I'm another one of those with a very precise system that has worked well for me for the last ten years or so. 4 racking krabs for standard nuts (all Rocks in my case). 10,9,8,7 / 9,8,7,6,5 / 6,5,5,4,4,3 / 4,3,3,2,2,1,1. And one racking krab for brass offset micros (which overlap Rocks 1 and 2). This way I equalise the weights on each krab. I also have sufficient overlap that I'm unlikely to pick the wrong rack for the crack I'm staring at and if I drop a rack I've still got at least one full set (as long as I haven't placed too many runners by then of course).

My racking krabs are DMM featherlights from the 80's. Still one of the lightest krabs around, but pulled by the manufacturer (as I understand it) for not passing gate open tests in the late 80's and definitely only psychological if I had to use one now - they stay on the harness!
jezb1 - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:
Whatever you decide to go with stick to the same system.

For me its IMPs - 1,1,2,2,3,4 - 3,4,5,5,6 - 6,7,8,9,10,11 normally.

I overlap incase I misjudge the size.
Post edited at 18:08
the power - on 04 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

just stick a cam in and climb on
RomTheBear - on 05 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:
> At the mo ive just got all my nuts on a large solid gate Karabiner, this is ok for the easier routes im doing now as a beginner but I could imagine it being hard to get one nut out of a bunch with only one hand and not risk dropping some down a crag.

> How do you carry yours - any tips for a novice?

As many people said, Micro, Small, medium and large nuts on four separate BD ovals. I used to put everything on one krab but despite being compact it's just too fiddly to use, and if you drop it you are in the s**t.
Post edited at 10:25
robal - on 05 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

shriveled and slightly to the left...
planetmarshall on 05 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

Still experimenting, currently carry odd numbers on one side, evens on the other.
taddersandbadger - on 05 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

Made me smile reading about everyone's quirky ways of doing this! For me after trying oval wire gates and not getting on with them, it is now three solid gate clean nosed snap gates carrying small medium and large.
The only little nugget I could possibly add, is that depending on the route (I do mostly one or two pitch, limestone sea cliff trad) when reading the route, I try to think about the gear as well as the moves / sequence. There are obviously limitations to this but if there are obvious placements to be seen from the belay, I will move the appropriate set to where they are close at hand. It puts you in a good frame of mind when you set off with purpose to a good placement you had already scoped out and on reaching it, with the right gear to hand, you place it with minimal faff and can crack on.
Also any trip to Swanage only ever involves the four smallest Camalots and plenty of wires vs on a trip to Stanage, a full set of Tech friends gets dragged along!

Enjoy the journey ;)
butteredfrog - on 05 Mar 2014
In reply to Trangia:

You and me both. Small stuff on one krab, big stuff on another and three or four hexes (large) on cord, on individual Krabs!
Morgan Woods - on 06 Mar 2014
In reply to ow arm:

Small, medium & large on separate ovals.

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