UKC

swanage conditions

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 timmyhobby 06 Mar 2014
hi,

im planing on going to swanage on Sunday with my girlfriend and wondered if anyone new what condition it was in and where was best to go for some easy routes (up to about vs, long and easy would be best) not at subliminal if possible as ive been there a few times before and quite new to the rest of the place?

cheers

Tim
 David Coley 06 Mar 2014
In reply to timmyhobby:

Waves look small:
http://www.surf-forecast.com/breaks/Durlston/forecasts/latest/six_day

So you should be able to get to b-line, lightning wall and a couple of other VS routes in the ruckle fine.
 The Ivanator 06 Mar 2014
In reply to timmyhobby:

For routes up to VS Guillemot Ledge is probably a better bet than the Ruckle, multi pitch opportunities and easier (HS) escape available if things don't go to plan.
Lightning Wall is HVS and no pushover - I speak from painful experience on that one! If you are keen on the Ruckle the far Western end is more suitable, use the Ramp abseil to access routes like Jericho Groove (HS) Bottomless Buttress (HS) and Silhouette Arete (softish VS).
Not been recently, but know people that have and suspect conditions will be decent if the rain stays away, beware of the steep, muddy top outs though - less of a problem at Guillemot.
OP timmyhobby 06 Mar 2014


thanks for the good advice. just looked through my guide book and i like the sound of both! we will probably decide on the way there then go to the other one on the next trip in a few weeks time, Cheers
 David Coley 06 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

Might the walk to Guillemot be a bit of a wade given the rain of late?
 CurlyStevo 06 Mar 2014
In reply to timmyhobby:
you may want to bare in mind that unless the mud banks above the climbs have fully dried out they can be quite a bit more exciting!

Guillemot ledge can be better in this regard as it has a quarry above many of the climbs (the ones to the right of the ab desent looking at the cliff for a fair way along, at least as far as tensor II area).

Subliminal also has more friendly top outs.

Bottle Buttress I personally find harder than some of the VS climbs and watch out for the horrible top out on that one.
Post edited at 19:06
 Monkey_Alan 06 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:
> Lightning Wall is HVS and no pushover - I speak from painful experience on that one! If you are keen on the Ruckle the far Western end is more suitable, use the Ramp abseil to access routes like Jericho Groove (HS) Bottomless Buttress (HS) and Silhouette Arete (softish VS).
Silhouette Arete is currently bird banned (yes, it's March already!). Guillemot has more good VSs close together than Ruckle West. There's more at Marmolata, but most of them are quite hard for the grade.

> Not been recently, but know people that have and suspect conditions will be decent if the rain stays away, beware of the steep, muddy top outs though - less of a problem at Guillemot.
Top-outs were fine (for Boulder Ruckle) on Saturday.
 The Ivanator 06 Mar 2014
In reply to Monkey_Alan:

Oops, you're right - March snuck up quick! Good to hear BR top outs are not too awful at present.
 Dogwatch 08 Mar 2014
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> Subliminal

Subluminal. Because it's under the lighthouse.
 thermal_t 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Dogwatch: Subliminal - its the new "Peaks!"

OP timmyhobby 08 Mar 2014
In reply to thermal_t:

I forget how picky some people can be on hear

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