Paulo Grobel has written online about the cornice collapse on Ben Nevis that carried him hundreds of metres down No.4 Gully:
http://www.paulo-grobel.com/04_cascade/ben_nevis/the_dragon.htm
Gulp!
Here is the text from google translate (pictures to accompany on his website, the first few lines are photo captions):
"(A few seconds before the collapse of the cornice,
Here is the last picture my camera found on the surface by rescuers who came to inspect the avalanche.
The following photo, less than thirty seconds later is completely black and the other four are white!)
I remember very well this time.
Initially , I wanted to take pictures of the strung and Philippe Sylvain leaving Pinnacle Ridge in South Trident Buttress .
But as I was not in the right place , I decided to change the point of view when mist , rising from the valley caught my attention. The show was great with Ben in the background in full sun and wall Indicator in the shadows.
Before joining Neil my climbing partner who kept his bag behind me , I wanted to zoom in on the small ledge in the foreground to illustrate a page for the site specific conditions this year .
Just before observing profile Number Four , I was surprised not to find an overhanging cornice, but simply a vertical wall of snow.
Alan talk later printing of a serac wall .
Both footprints are particularly interesting to me . Two people walked to this place in the morning ! And we're still about 3 or 4 meters from the edge ...
It only takes a second for everything changes ...
I will keep in my memory this terrible moment, as if suspended in space,
or the entire cornice Number Four collapses around me.
Result was radical and instant ... a fall of 400 m in the hallway of Number Four , resulted in a huge avalanche with huge blocks of snow the size of a Fiat Panda.
The time spent riding the Dragon lasted a very short time , even if it also takes forever. I just remember thinking that it would end one day, that I had just shut your mouth and breathe quietly through the nose and stay as relaxed as possible, as together as possible. I also felt that I was doing jumps when crossing the slope break , I drove all over the place with strong shocks around without too much pain.
Then everything stopped. More noise , more movement .
I was alive ! It was amazing and wonderful!
I took time to dare open his eyes, then move my limbs one by one, as if I was afraid to discover a disaster. I ached with a taste of blood in his mouth , but nothing really serious priori .
For cons , I was stuck under a big block, but in the open air. Dragon had spat me and I was like hanging on the front of the avalanche to a meter above the ground . Release took me time because I had lost my gloves and my backpack still wedged myself under the snow blocks .
That's great, I'm alive and standing.
I look at the landscape that surrounds me with great happiness. High , Ritchie comes out of the hard length of Gargoyle Wall. Frank , his climbing partner will certainly be very pleased with this achievement . Pyrenean must already be high in Orion Face. There also has strung on Tower Ridge. They have certainly seen the spectacle of the avalanche and may be notified for assistance.
It is beautiful on the big Ben , the lights have an amazing flavor.
I remain seated long to taste this time.
Slowly, painfully , I switched on to the valley , first hopping pulling my bag behind me because my right ankle suffered a bit . I feel even more the vulnerability of our Homo verticalis state. My thoughts fly to the epics of Doug Scott Himalayas. From my side , I'm not too worried me , relief will come soon and the worst I can join a group that exercises or even below the CIC Hut to call .
Then the slope becomes steeper and walk me is too painful , I slip more or less on the buttocks to move forward. Hopefully, soon as I hear the noise of the large helicopter of the Royal Air Force, typical relief in Scotland.
Little background ...
The day promised to be exceptional on Ben , with fine weather , little wind and a good night refreezing .
Our group is separated in different places.
Chris is Sonia and Stuart in the area of ​​Rubicon .
Ritchie is roped with Frank to try to track mixed Gargoyle Wall.
From my side , I accompany the strung Philip wanted to put his own relay . I offered an affordable but little traveled road , Pinnacle Ridge . I climb with Neil .
In the valley of Coire Na Cistus, we are progressing with Ritchie us decrypts the conditions and ways of coping with Ben: " Be flexible and opportunist ... "
Everything went as smoothly as possible for us. I leave all the desired autonomy Philippe and Sylvain and I all the time needed to look after the best of Neil , who have little experience at Ben .
At the end of the ridge, Philippe is behind us at last stint , we are in the early afternoon.
For the rest , I proposed to Neil completely cross the mountains to enjoy the good weather to soak up the scene and recover the way the cords of Ritchie and Chris to go down together by CMD .
We bend the strings and line up our business in our bag and I approach the summit plateau Number Four for a few photos ...
Turning , Neil not see anyone and guess I'm already gone to the top.
He has not seen or heard , the collapse of the ledge !
An incredible story
how clever this Dragon ...
And more ...
I must first thank very much all those who have helped me , cared for, aiding, abetting .
In particular, the rescue teams Scot Lochaber , Ritchie & the Emergency Department of the Hospital of Fort William , Kim, and of course ... Sonia .
Not to mention the Dragon me spit !
Finally, the balance sheet is relatively light :
bruises everywhere,
left ankle abused,
a small fracture to the fibula in his right leg .
Sirocco my helmet exploded
backpack and destroyed my axes somewhere under the snow.
Good news
I'll have time to write and complete rundown on the Mustang with Etienne
but also the chapter of a book with Lawrence , an article for review guide
and especially working on a new website and mountaineering courses this summer!
I also need absolutely find the beautiful story of the Zen philosophy that perfectly illustrates this paradox.
The next departure for Nepal is only in May for " Annapurna Revisited " and a great project Mustang.
I would exemplary patience ...
Good all winter and next year to find Ben and atmosphere so Scottish"
